LR3/4 Steering Vibration issue

[Victory_Overland]

They give a clunk when going over bumps. Means they are worn out. New bushings keeps the sway bar working. No real performance upgrade, just working as it should.

Do you recommend factory replacement all around or aftermarket? I am building a spares list for my shelf and expect that I will be doing control arms, bushings, sway bar, inner/outers all at once so I want to get them all on the shelf so when something goes, it's on the rack once. It would be great to have a build list on where to get everything.

Thanks.

 

[ColoDisco]

I recommend factory bushings. I tried moog rears and their already creaking when it's cold out.

 

[zelatore]

Thanks. The reason I was asking is because my trucks seems to be bouncing more over bumps now and rolling a little more in turns. Don't know if this is a simply a result of worn shocks that eventually need replacing, or if it's a result of the weight that I've added to the truck and the shocks need revalving (or still replacing), or if it might be the result of something as simple as worn sway bar bushings!

I'm going to say both age and weight.

After adding all the gear to my truck I decided to run it over a CAT scale one day on the way back from a weekend trip. Since I was returning home I didn't have full water or food but did have my gear on board. Without people it was over 7000lbs. Yeah...heavy.

All that weight means the air suspension increases the spring pressure to maintain ride height. Throw into the mix that I run Johnson rods, so a 2" lift full time which means even higher spring pressures. Normally you would want stiffer shock valving to control those stiffer springs but that's not an option with the LR3 as nobody makes firmer shocks, only stock valving. To compound that the trucks are pretty soft to start with.

So while your stock aging struts may be getting tired I wouldn't expect a night and day difference with new stock parts. The ideal would be if somebody out there started offering a firmer shock but I haven't heard of such a thing.

 

[ColoDisco]

There's the bilsteins, not sure if their any better.

 

[mpinco]

There's the bilsteins, not sure if their any better.

Thought we have been down this path ....... on bilstein.

Land Rover is better but then again you get what you paid for.

 

[ColoDisco]

I was just stating there is more than just stock.

 

[zelatore]

The original Arrnots used Bilstiens. The weren't better than stock. That's also what I snapped while playing in the rocks last year. So far, so good with the revised version but I don't have a lot of hard use on them yet.

 

[dsm02c]

Resolution! After replacing inner and outer tie rods (that had no distinguishable play) I now have no vibration from the steering wheel after my alignment today.

I noticed on the alignment report the camber on the front is now within spec on the driver front and there is more camber on the front passenger. I hate to think this was all due to a bad alignment from Land Rover Frisco (2) times previous, and I doubt it as my tire wear is even and what I have experienced from this truck and my previous one is in line with previous tire wear.

I'm going to call it case closed and move on to finishing up the other maintenance issues like my slowly leaking pinion seal on my front diff.

Will report back if anything changes.

 

[GORM]

DSM ... I am amidst some suspension work myself (see LR3 Suspension help). Sway bar bushings all around have helped but not cured. Same thing, vibration, especially during braking at 40mph+ (Not every time). Pretty sure it tie rods. I'm going to do full kit on both sides. Any tips? Special tools? Words of wisdom?

 

[jymmiejamz]

Were you checking for play in the tie rod ends with the suspension hanging or were you lifting by the control arm? Tie rod play is much more noticeable at ride height.

 

[GORM]

Dealer told me right inner tie rod needed replacement but I can turn both sides by hand (twisting). The seals on the outlets seem ok but do not seem full of grease. Debating whether to simply replace inners and outers or replace the inners only. This is with weight on the wheels and normal height.

 

[jymmiejamz]

I would buy the complete kit for both sides which includes everything such as hardware and boots. May as well only pay for one alignment.

 

[dsm02c]

Dealer told me right inner tie rod needed replacement but I can turn both sides by hand (twisting). The seals on the outlets seem ok but do not seem full of grease. Debating whether to simply replace inners and outers or replace the inners only. This is with weight on the wheels and normal height.

I would replace everything, there is no reason not to, you are going to need to align it no matter what. I can remember the popular tool for separating ball joints simply didn't fit the tie rods on the LR4.

I had a braking issue on my LR4 with some vibration under braking and the passenger side front rotor had an obvious low spot on it, I replaced and rebuilt the front brake calipers, guide pins, and replaced all the hardware...

Truck is still running great!