LR3 Rear Diff Help
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Need any what?
Fivespddisco
Supporting Sponsor
Rear Diff or Diff bearing kits.
unseenone has gone above board to make them available in the US at fantastic prices.
NCLRbear
Adventurer
any updates on this? I have a rear locking diff. Both the dealer and my personal mechanic say my rear diff is going out but I don't hear your typical whine. I ordered a bearing kit and I'm going to take it to a Differential shop next month. I was just wondering if anyone has done this before?
Finding noises
I had my rear diff (non locking) go out on my 2008 LR3 w/ 68k miles. It was making a clear whine/grinding noise that my mechanic recommended replacing it as it was still under an extended warranty. At first the warranty company didn't want to pay for it because they thought water had gotten into from wading. Since I had just bought the car I had no idea whether that was true or not and the previous owner denied ever even taking it off road. They finally did some tests and discovered it wasn't water and I at least had a new diff paid for.
I also have a 2006 that feels like it may have the front diff going but it's more of a feeling in the steering and peddles then anything. No noises so I'm going down list of the other items listed above by A.J.M.
Just came across an article discussing best tools to have and the wireless stethoscope came up. May have to invest in one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/STEELMAN-97202-Wireless-ChassisEAR-Diagnostic/dp/B00123J79O
I had my rear diff (non locking) go out on my 2008 LR3 w/ 68k miles. It was making a clear whine/grinding noise that my mechanic recommended replacing it as it was still under an extended warranty. At first the warranty company didn't want to pay for it because they thought water had gotten into from wading. Since I had just bought the car I had no idea whether that was true or not and the previous owner denied ever even taking it off road. They finally did some tests and discovered it wasn't water and I at least had a new diff paid for.
I also have a 2006 that feels like it may have the front diff going but it's more of a feeling in the steering and peddles then anything. No noises so I'm going down list of the other items listed above by A.J.M.
Just came across an article discussing best tools to have and the wireless stethoscope came up. May have to invest in one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/STEELMAN-97202-Wireless-ChassisEAR-Diagnostic/dp/B00123J79O
Thanks Justin/Lucky8
They do get moisture in them, but it is not from wading, so I think the warranty company kind of took advantage to you there. How would they know in the first place anyway, it is not like they work on them. I suspect the moisture issue, that some may dispute even exists is due to heating and cooling condensation, which does not escape, tied with the low volume of oil.
We have done more rears than front in fact, but they both need to be changed eventually, it just should not cost 4k to do it. I would say that checking the CV joints is a good idea, but the most common misdiagnosis is wheel bearings. It is difficult to hear where the noise is coming from because it travels up the frame on them.
I suggest changing your Diff fluid every 30k miles or so to prolong their life due to rust failure. Eventually most everyone will need them. Beyond the scope mentioned above, chassis ears are a good item to borrow if you don't have them to track down the noise.
Plenty of Rears in stock if you need one.
Just FYI, I live in Texas, I had the same rust issue, no, no water here hardly, still the rust happens. Here is a picture if it helps you. So their conclusion about wading is simply an excuse, which is being unfairly stated to their advantage. You buy insurance to protect you against unknowns, with the hope you don't have a problem. It is a bet for you to pay them in case something happens. They sell to you with the bet you won't have a problem. If they failed to inspect it ahead of time, they can't use the excuse of a pre-existing condition now, they took the bet.
They do get moisture in them, but it is not from wading, so I think the warranty company kind of took advantage to you there. How would they know in the first place anyway, it is not like they work on them. I suspect the moisture issue, that some may dispute even exists is due to heating and cooling condensation, which does not escape, tied with the low volume of oil.
We have done more rears than front in fact, but they both need to be changed eventually, it just should not cost 4k to do it. I would say that checking the CV joints is a good idea, but the most common misdiagnosis is wheel bearings. It is difficult to hear where the noise is coming from because it travels up the frame on them.
I suggest changing your Diff fluid every 30k miles or so to prolong their life due to rust failure. Eventually most everyone will need them. Beyond the scope mentioned above, chassis ears are a good item to borrow if you don't have them to track down the noise.
Plenty of Rears in stock if you need one.
Just FYI, I live in Texas, I had the same rust issue, no, no water here hardly, still the rust happens. Here is a picture if it helps you. So their conclusion about wading is simply an excuse, which is being unfairly stated to their advantage. You buy insurance to protect you against unknowns, with the hope you don't have a problem. It is a bet for you to pay them in case something happens. They sell to you with the bet you won't have a problem. If they failed to inspect it ahead of time, they can't use the excuse of a pre-existing condition now, they took the bet.
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If I may highjack.. First LR3 Rear diff whine
I stumbled upon this thread and am begging for advice. Ive got that humming/whine/thrumming coming from somewhere under the rear. It sounds almost like metal to metal, but faint. I jacked the LR3 up and found a bad wheel bearing, got that replaced, but the noise is still there. Upon more inspection I found that both inner boots of the CV axles are torn, and leaking lots of grease. Could this be the noise I'm hearing? I bought new cv axles, but am worried that I'll replace them and still hear the noise. The rear diff was replaced with a used diff (55,000 miles) by the previous owner this past July. Im terrified that it could be the bearings in the diff. I know for certain that the CV axles need to be replaced, just really hoping that they are causing the sound, anyone know if they could cause this noise? Thanks
I stumbled upon this thread and am begging for advice. Ive got that humming/whine/thrumming coming from somewhere under the rear. It sounds almost like metal to metal, but faint. I jacked the LR3 up and found a bad wheel bearing, got that replaced, but the noise is still there. Upon more inspection I found that both inner boots of the CV axles are torn, and leaking lots of grease. Could this be the noise I'm hearing? I bought new cv axles, but am worried that I'll replace them and still hear the noise. The rear diff was replaced with a used diff (55,000 miles) by the previous owner this past July. Im terrified that it could be the bearings in the diff. I know for certain that the CV axles need to be replaced, just really hoping that they are causing the sound, anyone know if they could cause this noise? Thanks
bearskinrug
New member
So is the issue with rear diffs more common on locked diffs or is it pretty universal? If either diff has been replaced with new, can you assume the defect (flaking inner coating, etc.) has been corrected? A truck I'm looking at has had the rear locking diff replaced with a used unit, and though I haven't inspected the truck, it doesn't seem to be an adequate repair really.
From what I understand Land Rover used a coating on the inside of the casing that delaminated. This worked its way into the bearings. Also read that Land Rover recalled those affected vehicles? I can't recall where I read that discussion.
If someone could find the TSB you should be able to track this back to the VIN.
If someone could find the TSB you should be able to track this back to the VIN.
We bought our LR3 a month ago, the previous owners replaced the front control arms, rear diff, and a few other things. But now with the noise back there, I'm wishing I had taken more time with the purchase. I test drove it, but was too giddy in the LR3 to notice any foul noises... Praying that it doesn't become a money pit. Unseenone do you have a website where you sell diffs?
colb45
Observer
Have you replaced the rear CVs yet? Its one of those things if you see visible worn parts or equipment replace it first, before jumping the gun on a worn/dead diff. I had another vehicle that had cv drive shaft issues that would cause a huming sound before failure, and if your CV boots are torn up and grease is leaking that is good starting point. Also Its good to be in-tune with your vehicle but dont go over paranoid trying to listen for random sounds etc you will lose your mind and break your wallet... trust me.
ColoDisco
Explorer
I went down the "suspect everything but the rear diff" route as well. Finally checked it out with 2 of my fellow LR techs and we all concurred it is my rear diff. Makes the same noises you are describing. Has been doing it for about 9 months and I was assured by my old shop foreman that I still had time until I had to rebuild it. I say rebuild as I am doing the work myself and am planning on buying the parts from Unseenone soon. Have to have it done before wheeling season gets back in the swing around here.
You have a good point. My 1998 Disco I am perfectly in tune with and comfortable with it's creaks and humms. But this LR3 is so new and fancy to me I am a bit jumpy. My plan is to do the CVs, and if the sound persists look into the diff rebuild, but I will bide my time. The noise is very faint currently
Hey there. i have a 2005 LR3 with 88k miles. Bought it in Arizona and drove it back to Florida almost 2 years ago. The vehicle saw it's share of desert terrain as it was intended. It was my mother's car and she kept good care of it. Started by hearing clunking making left turns. Now it has gotten worse. I have had several people, some mechanics, tell me about the rear diffs. Looks like you may be a source for rebuilds? Wondering if that was still available as I feel buying a used one may give me the same problems.
Thanks for any help you can provide.
Greg
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