Lucinda Build

philos

Explorer
Keeps getting better and better. Love how you are open to thinking about solutions on your own.


Sent via flux capacitor
 

chiliVANilli

Adventurer
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I was able to use the shifter rod from the Suburban and original shift linkage from the van to make the the tranny work. I had to fabricate a bracket and also make it removable in case I had to pull the transmission. Not a great pic.
 

chiliVANilli

Adventurer
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The original brakes on the van didn't even have a booster of any kind, and there was no room to add a booster either. I looked at all the usual hot rod online places, to see if there was an option. All of them were too big. Some of friends in the rock crawling world have been using the Chevy hydroboost system, so that seemed like a good option, since it is only master cylinder without the big booster. Also, I'm using electric power steering, and wanted to use the original serpentine belt set up, which requires the power steering pump to be there. So I decided Hydroboost was best.
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This is the Chevy hydroboost master cylinder that I got.
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I cut the whole brake assembly out of the van, but I wanted to try to keep the pedal position the same. I had to cut the original pushrod off the master cylinder and weld where I cut the one off the hydroboost. I had to bend it a couple of times to get it in the right position. I also had to cut the big pushrod that attaches to brake to brake pedal and shorten it substantially to make it work.
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Then I made a bracket to attach the master cylinder to the frame of the van, and welded it on it the right place.
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All plumbed in with the Wilwood proportioning valve.
 

chiliVANilli

Adventurer
I was even able to line up the filler cap on the new master cylinder with the hole in the floor for the original master cylinder filler cap!
 

chiliVANilli

Adventurer
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More wiring. I wired all the dash lights, head lights, blinkers,and idiot lights from the van into the new harness. I'm still amazed that most of the wire colors stayed the same from 1968 to 1989. I also decided on the place where the fuse panel was going to live. There is a good spot behind the column, and it still allows easy access. I did have to move the wiper fluid reservoir out of the way for it and will have to find a new place for that.
 

chiliVANilli

Adventurer
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The original gas gauge worked on a 0-30 ohm range and the fuel sender I am using works on 0-90 ohms, so that needed to change. I was going to try and retrofit it with parts from a new gauge I bought to keep the gauge pod original looking. I took the gauge pod apart because I wanted to clean and paint it anyway and after looking at what it would take to retrofit and how nicely the new gauge fit in there, I decided to cut the old gauge out and put the new one in instead. Probably going to make the purists in the vintage van community mad, but it's my van and well, I have to have a gas gauge. I painted the face with some silver aluminum color paint, and gave the trim some gloss black to freshen it up. I may end up putting a tach in the middle circle later.
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With the engine and radiator where they are, I definitely need a temperature gauge. I bought a 3 pack with temp, oil pressure ,and volt meter from the local parts store. Since the temp gauge sending wire can't be cut, and it would need to be about 7 or 8 feet long to go to the dash, I had to find somewhere else to put it. There was a spot on the front of the doghouse that is pressed out for something for the old set up. It also allowed good visibility of the gauge, too, so that is it's home. Looks like it was made for the(a) gauge to go there.
 
This build brings back fond memories for me since my first car was a 1964 90 version. I had my CR250 and BMX in the back along with my tools with a couple of bean bag chairs. Went everywhere riding and racing hanging out in that van. Thanks for posting this build. Truly is the only one I regret getting rid of.


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chiliVANilli

Adventurer
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Since the van was getting closer to being able to be driven, I really wanted to get rid of the giant gash/ dent it had in the side. I was able to find a replacement panel luckily that was big enough to cover most of the damage. I really can't figure out how they did it, but whatever they hit was sharp and cut into it pretty good. The sheetmetal on this thing is pretty thick.
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I figured I'd use as much of the patch as possible, however, I did have to cut quite a bit off where their press or stamp mangled it. Still better than making it or doing a ton of body work. That's a big hole!
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More evidence of the mud that I'm pretty sure killed the van. The lady I brought the van from originally had it listed for sale in Ft. Collins, Colorado, and they had some major flooding a couple of years before I bought it. That could also explain why the van had no interior, or engine or tranny. And maybe the gash,too.20151004_191722_resized.jpg20151004_200558_resized.jpg
The panel fit pretty nicely, but I got in a little rush and got some warping while welding it, but most of it hammered out and it came out good.
 

chiliVANilli

Adventurer
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I figured while I was cutting on the van I'd do some clearancing in the front wheel wells. A little grinding and massaging with a BFH. I wasn't able to go to far by the front door, just because of how it was designed and lined up, but it seems good, but I won't know until we go wheeling.
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I also decided to fix the sagging doors and get all the body lines "straight". The hinges are pretty worn and not too easy to find, so I got everything as good as possible.
 

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