M101A2 Adventure Rack

Buffalobwana

Observer
The battery tray and the orange ammo can were both screwed down to the sheet of plywood and it worked great. Since there are ridges in the floor of the 101, the plywood stands up about 1/2” off the floor. That gave me enough room to ratchet strap the fridge down to the edge of the plywood lightly so it wouldn’t walk around.
34FD393C-37A4-47C8-81CC-E329D15F8830.jpeg
82456F7D-7BB8-4D14-AC33-CF3FAC31D079.jpeg

This method of a temporary floor is ideal. You can fasten anything to it. The tailgate holds it perfectly in place, if not, you could shim it with a couple pieces of small diameter bungee or rope.
 

Buffalobwana

Observer
I took a flap wheel to the inside and out in prep for spraying the entire thing with U-pol bedliner. Then the trailer wound up at the ranch, and I have not had a chance to spray it yet.

Flap wheel on an angle grinder removing CARC is a horrible job. You wind up covered in the dust. Respirator is an absolute must!

I’ll post pics when I get it done.

Thanks sonarman.
 

justinh

Observer
What jack did you end up using? I did almost the same tongue mods to my trailer back in 2013. Only I made a tongue on receiver tube with a standard hitch with 2” ball and ditched the pintle.

I threw a cheap bolt on jack on back then and it’s currently broken and I’m trying to decide what to replace it with.

I’d also love to see how you hooked up the parking brakes. I’ve got a 3500lbs axle with parking brakes under mine and have never made it around to hooking them up.
 

Buffalobwana

Observer
Ok, a year later, I’m back at it. Headed to Colorado soon and want to finish this, or get it functional.

I finished the electric brake install, hooked up the blue wire ... and nothing. I have had plugs from eTrailer with wires switched before. Will investigate.

We have a CVT RTT to install once I get there. Nephew is meeting me, bringing his.

I painted it, was going to spray bed with UPol bedliner. Didn’t happen. I did manage to spill 1/2 gallon of paint while painting, so that’s great.

While I’d love to complete my list of “To Do” For the trailer, let’s be real. Here’s what I want to do and what’s done.

Suggestions always welcome.

Done
Paint
Brake install
New bearings

To Do
* Troubleshoot brakes
* Mount hi-lift, axe, shovel and fire extinguisher on rack
* mount different tires
* Finish 3 axis coupler (1/2 way there)

Painted!
72A250DE-CF82-4D03-9E89-B94794E83FE4.jpeg
 

Buffalobwana

Observer
I’d also love to see how you hooked up the parking brakes. I’ve got a 3500lbs axle with parking brakes under mine and have never made it around to hooking them up.
I bought new parking brake cables on E bay. I have not installed them yet, though, I do have an idea. I’ll need to find the exact part I’m looking for. I’ll share it when I do figure it out.
 

Buffalobwana

Observer
I built a 3 axis coupler. I had a design brewing in my brain that used 3 point hitch parts, specifically, the pins since they are so strong. Then I ran across jscherb’s post and his design. Yeah, his is a lot better.

I used a little bit of my design, most of it is his, but I changed a couple things on his that might be better/easier? You can judge.

I used a 1 1/4” pin as my hitch pin, instead of Jeff’s 1” bolt. Not sure I’d do it again, but it was my design, so I wanted to try it. It’s strong. Stronger than any ball since the diameter is larger than any ball shaft. I had to open up the hitch hole to fit the pin. I welded a thick collar to the bottom as my plate to take the friction of turning. As it wears down, I can just adjust the height of the pin with the bolts.
m3cSzm5.jpg


Iused a 1 1/4” bushing drilled through the 2x2 square tubing. To house the pin. The height of the pin is adjustable to be flush with the pin that keeps it on.

I opted for a 1” pin holding the shaft to the hitch. I just felt better about the strength of it. Plus, my mig gun had a problem and I had to TIG it. I’m not very good at TIG yet and wanted a bigger pin to weld to.

rlBb8bP.jpg


The two areas I deviated from Jsherb’s idea was the ball to the 2x2 tubing. Instead of grinding the ball to fit, I heated up the tubing and flared it out to accept the ball. I’m sure it’s just as easy/strong to do it his way.

R8SQUFL.jpg


I also think he set up his 1” bolt with the head still on it. Slide all parts on before you start welding. I cut the head off, welded that end to my 1” bushing and slid the parts on one at a time. When I was done, I snugged the nut down to where the ball just moved Freely, then welded the nut to keep it from spinning off.

ORw6yf4.jpg
 
Last edited:

Buffalobwana

Observer
I need a shorter 1” pin to hold it together and I need to weld a rest for the shaft to sit in when you attach the two. I forgot to do that before I painted it

Also, you may notice I welded the 2x2 into a 2.5x2.5 tubing. Both trailers I will use this on have 2.5” receivers.


zyk6Q1R.jpg


oT46sfu.jpg


I may chop this pin down and drill a larger hole to accommodate the “flip over” ring pin. Like what is on the top of the main hitch shaft.

cs0xERw.jpg


So, that’s it. I used the flipped over receiver hitch to raise the tongue to close to level.

Props to Jeff Scherb for his design. Well done!
 
Last edited:

Buffalobwana

Observer
Pin shortened and drilled to accept the bigger “Flip over” pin.
kPt0eaQ.jpg


I removed all the reflectors and light covers and painted them gloss black.
hcHK6DL.jpg



I need to paint the light housing. Looks funny with just the cover painted black.
celjF8Q.jpg
 

Forum statistics

Threads
188,186
Messages
2,903,538
Members
229,665
Latest member
SANelson
Top