Matthewp's MuTTT (Multiple Terrain Tactical Teardrop).

[matthewp]

The last couple days involved work on the control box and the dividing wall between the kitchen and sleeping area. This wall involves a 2" gap for water and electrical lines. Here is a top view:



From the sleeping bay side, there will be a removable panel:



The kitchen side is open behind the area that will be behind the drawers:



The concept of this will to be to maximize the access area in the void.

 

[matthewp]

The box behind the control panel will be about 4" deep. Access will be through the control panel being removable by four bolts:

 

[TwinStick]

This is an awesome build !!! I work with someone who has a camp in Theresa NY, on Red Lake. I am around Buffalo.

 

[FireMedic82]

Wow, you're moving right along! I could have swore I subscribed to your thread. Coming along nicely Matt. I'm liking all of the compartments. Mine is beginning to seem like a sardine can with every advancement I make lol.

 

[FireMedic82]

Got it subscribed that time! Looking forward to the progress

 

[2012Taco]

Very nice, keep up the great work!

 

[Grim Reaper]

I wish I had more progress! With finances on hold until after Christmas, and being hijacked to build a custom garage door for a friend, the trailer sits un-loved!
.
Good news is, Kristy, my wife, is hot in the design of the kitchen with me!

Elmo_4_VT, does this look right?


View attachment 187536

I wouldn't do it that way.
I'd do it the way it's done on your car and the switch is on the ground leg.

The frame of the trailer is going to be grounded to the battery. Run the positive to the light. Run the ground to the switch and from the switch to the frame.

This is better for several reasons. You can protect the wiring to the light better in most instances. You also only need one wire to the switch instead of a wire from the power source to the switch to the light.
If the wire at the switch gets cut or pinched then it's not a dead short to the battery that blows the fuse. It either turns the light on if shorted or if the wire is cut then no light at all. That way if you have multiple lights on the same fuse you don't loose the rest.

 

[matthewp]

I'd do it the way it's done on your car and the switch is on the ground leg.

Funnily enough, I ended up changing and doing that by recommendation from an electrcican friend. Thanks for the explaination though! It's nice to have it explained well as to why.

 

[roverpat]

More pictures please!! The frame design is phenomenal. Water tanks and battery situated nice and low to help with center of gravity is brilliant. I dont plan to build a teardrop however the frame is exactly what I was thinking of doing. Great build!!

 

[matthewp]

More pictures please!! The frame design is phenomenal. Water tanks and battery situated nice and low to help with center of gravity is brilliant. I dont plan to build a teardrop however the frame is exactly what I was thinking of doing. Great build!!

Please forgive me for that! It has been a busy week. I hope to have last weekend's pictures up tonight.... And, of course, hope to have more updates by the end of the weekend.

 

[matthewp]

I decided to seal my rear hatch using a similar design to my Jeep. It therefore involved finding the right seal and figuring out how to work more metal magic.

Here's the aluminum (more reasonably malleable than steel, but still plenty strong for the use).



The seal trim is screwed every 6". I worked the metal around the opening one screw at a time, using a rubber mallet to push it into the corners.



All finished with the rubber seal (found on grainger.com) in place.



When I go to finish the bodywork, I will remove the trim, then seal it to the wood with 3M 5200 before reinstalling the screws.

 

[matthewp]

To get around the vertical angles (30*), I cut a series of gaps in the trim, about 3/4 of the way through, with my Dremel and a grinding disk.



After carefully bending with a hammer, then installing, the finished product looks pretty good.



The open gaps remaining in the metal around the curve will be sealed with JB Weld and sanded down before installing and sealing.

 

[matthewp]

Here's the rear hatch frame pieces cut out. It's a 2 X 4 up top with 1/2" plywood for the ribs



All screwed and glued together.

 

[FireMedic82]

The open areas in the metal around the curve will be sealed with JB Weld and sanded down before installing and sealing.

What about a nice looking paneling to cover the trim and sides? Would keep you from having to JB weld and it would look clean too.



Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk

 

[matthewp]

What about a nice looking paneling to cover the trim and sides? Would keep you from having to JB weld and it would look clean too.



Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk

Thee outside panels of the hatch visually cover the seal. I will be able to show you after this weekend.