silvrzuki77
explorer
Good use of space. Is that a foreman or huge mop? Lol cool dog. Oh very carefully on the switch.
Matthewp's MuTTT (Multiple Terrain Tactical Teardrop).
- Thread starter matthewp
- Start date
Mark Harley
Expedition Leader
Mower handle wing nut?I used them to hold my deck to the rack.
Worked great!
matthewp
Combat Truck Monkey
On the money Mark! They seem like they will do well.
matthewp
Combat Truck Monkey
He's mostly foreman, but there is a bit of "mop" tendency! I really wish the switch would have come with at least a number clarification!
elmo_4_vt
Explorer
Nice... On the switch... NC is "normally closed", NO is "normally open". Those are the states of the switch at rest (not activated). The COM (common point) is where you'd typically run your hot wire. You would wire your load (lights) to either the NC or NO depending on your circuit, and then to ground on the other side of the load. If it's truly a momentary switch, then the contacts will change state when the button is pushed. The NC side will become open, and no current will flow through, the NO side will close, and current will flow. So if you doing what I think, you would use the NO side so that when the button is pushed, the light comes on. So it would go something like: Battery(+) -> Fuse -> Switch (COM) -> Switch (NO) -> Light (+) -> Light (-) -> Battery(-).
Hope that helps some. I can put together a quick drawing if you'd like.
Don
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Hope that helps some. I can put together a quick drawing if you'd like.
Don
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matthewp
Combat Truck Monkey
Matthewp's STILL Un-named Off-road Camper Build.
You are absolutely awesome. The switch is a true momentary and I am running it to come on when the plunger is out (IE: door is open). I will go with your recommended wiring set-up (I think that would be NO so the light stays off when the plunger is pushed in, door is closed). I think I've got it but I do work better with pictures if you wouldn't mind a quick drawing.
You are absolutely awesome. The switch is a true momentary and I am running it to come on when the plunger is out (IE: door is open). I will go with your recommended wiring set-up (I think that would be NO so the light stays off when the plunger is pushed in, door is closed). I think I've got it but I do work better with pictures if you wouldn't mind a quick drawing.
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elmo_4_vt
Explorer
That drawing is perfect, but the switch is backwards. I think you'll want to use the NC and the COM contacts. That way, in it's "normal" state (not pressed in), the switch is closed and current will flow through back to the battery negative terminal. Although, it could be like a house refrigerator, and never really know if it's turning off or not.
Oh, and you need a fuse as close to the battery as possible. They are definitely worth it.
Don
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Oh, and you need a fuse as close to the battery as possible. They are definitely worth it.
Don
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matthewp
Combat Truck Monkey
Dear U-Haul, your method of installing a trailer wiring harness sucks! After my trailer connection went out, I tore out all the butt-splices and T-connectors, then moved the module from under the rear bumper. I soldered, shrink tubed and properly protected the wiring then moved the module to a better spot behind one of the tail lights.
Then, I finally got to work on the trailer. The rear section is now complete externally and the water spigots were test fitted. Pics are without the metal, it was getting a little to dark by the time I got the metal done.
The rear storage compartment for the add-on side tables.
Then, I finally got to work on the trailer. The rear section is now complete externally and the water spigots were test fitted. Pics are without the metal, it was getting a little to dark by the time I got the metal done.
The rear storage compartment for the add-on side tables.
silvrzuki77
explorer
Likin the compartments!
silvrzuki77
explorer
No now!!!!!! Lol take your time and do it right! Looking sweet soo far!
matthewp
Combat Truck Monkey
Haha! You'd like how it looks. I have the chassis painted. As soon as I get the underbody coating and axle & suspension on, I'll pull it out of the garage for some pictures.
Today was 3 hours of building the trailer light wiring harness. I've decided to do it right and have a fully soldered/shrink-tubed/taped/covered wiring harness that would make an automotive manufacturer proud.