Stryder106
Explorer
Fits perfect and is VERY loud and clear.
My 02 Avalanche NFE
- Thread starter Stryder106
- Start date
Hey, nice job on your Avalance build- you don't see too many of these around built up like this. I was actually going through the trip report threads when I stumbled on your Mojave Road thread and was like, "hey that truck looks familiar." Sure enough, I'm pretty sure I pass by your house on my way up to pick up my youngest from daycare. That or there's another black Avalance on 35" Grabbers and triple Rotopax(es/ii) on the back in Riverside, lol!
Stryder106
Explorer
Thanks and nice that you're in the neighborhood.
Stryder106
Explorer
Gonna be a busy weekend wrenching on the Av. Got the charge wiring all changed out to 00awg and 4awg so that I'm getting all the amps. Installed a 225a Powermaster alternator, only to have my truck freak out because it was throwing .550v AC - suspect leaky diode. Pulled it back out and the factory 105a was idling at .050. Just received the replacement 225a from Powermaster/Summit - and will attempt install #2. Also, picked up all new radiator and heater hoses and 4 gals of universal coolant. Gonna flush it and replace the coolant. I figured the universal would be better to go with (I had been slowly adding it in over time and it won't create the sludge that straight green will when mixed with the Dex-Cool) as if I run into an issue where I may need additional coolant while in BFE - I may not be able to get Dex. Same logic I use for carrying my tuner with me - I run on 91, but if I have to drop to 87 I can detune it on the spot.
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I ordered up all new Spicer 5-795X Triple Sealed solid (non-greasable) U-Joints - hopefully they show up tomorrow and I can also install them this weekend. Also picked up some odds and ends for changing some storage and organizing options so I'll start playing around with that stuff.
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Did some suspension changes and tweaks: Revalved the shocks to handle the extra weight, my buddy made new chromoly rear control arms with 1" heims (he didn't like that I bought Spohn since he had built and designed the rest of the suspension components), changed a few other little things.
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4WheelParts did my ARB locker in the rear and it is time for it's initial checkup - so I ordered up an ARB diff cover to add some beef and strength compared to the stocker as well as some much stronger rear axles from G2/Midwest/Richmond along with new rear axle/wheel bearings (my factory ones have 180K on them and I replaced the fronts just a few weeks ago). Those should be here early next week.
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Lots of stuff for sale at smoking prices: KYB front mono shocks - free, Fog light assemblies and brackets - free, Av factory radio - free, Smittybilt Defender RoofRack - PM me, Spohn Performance Tubular and Adjustable rear upper and lower control arms - PM me, C02 System (new) with Powertank Cradle mount and Roll Bar mounts - PM me, CST Roof light bar brackets - PM me, Napier Tent (for Avalanche - like new) - PM me.
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I ordered up all new Spicer 5-795X Triple Sealed solid (non-greasable) U-Joints - hopefully they show up tomorrow and I can also install them this weekend. Also picked up some odds and ends for changing some storage and organizing options so I'll start playing around with that stuff.
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Did some suspension changes and tweaks: Revalved the shocks to handle the extra weight, my buddy made new chromoly rear control arms with 1" heims (he didn't like that I bought Spohn since he had built and designed the rest of the suspension components), changed a few other little things.
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4WheelParts did my ARB locker in the rear and it is time for it's initial checkup - so I ordered up an ARB diff cover to add some beef and strength compared to the stocker as well as some much stronger rear axles from G2/Midwest/Richmond along with new rear axle/wheel bearings (my factory ones have 180K on them and I replaced the fronts just a few weeks ago). Those should be here early next week.
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Lots of stuff for sale at smoking prices: KYB front mono shocks - free, Fog light assemblies and brackets - free, Av factory radio - free, Smittybilt Defender RoofRack - PM me, Spohn Performance Tubular and Adjustable rear upper and lower control arms - PM me, C02 System (new) with Powertank Cradle mount and Roll Bar mounts - PM me, CST Roof light bar brackets - PM me, Napier Tent (for Avalanche - like new) - PM me.
Bear in NM
Adventurer
Sounds like a lot of "work". Hope the changes continue to go well.
Up to this point, I have been jealous, in a good way. Now I am green. You have a tuner.....I know very little about those, but have been curious since I got my Av 2 years ago. From what I have been able to gather, you need the equipment, which I can do, but you also need someone, or some place that can actually prepare the tune. Not so easy for me, where I live. I am guessing you like yours? What do you feel it has brought to the table for you, if I may ask?
Craig
Up to this point, I have been jealous, in a good way. Now I am green. You have a tuner.....I know very little about those, but have been curious since I got my Av 2 years ago. From what I have been able to gather, you need the equipment, which I can do, but you also need someone, or some place that can actually prepare the tune. Not so easy for me, where I live. I am guessing you like yours? What do you feel it has brought to the table for you, if I may ask?
Craig
Stryder106
Explorer
Craig - there are a few different types of tuners. There are those that are more expensive that require you buy the tuner and then get a custom tune built into it. I actually have the lower dollar version - Hypertech Flashpaq because of a multitude of reasons: 1) Cost - it's cheaper; 2) The more expensive tuners with a custom tune will analyze your dominant driving and tune based on that. The result is a better tune. However, my truck is both my daily driver and my exploration vehicle - so my driving styles have a very wide variance; 3) Convenience - I can change programs at will and on the fly based on what I'm doing; 3) CARB Compliance - I'm in SoCal - so for my truck to pass smog - my tune has to be from a CARB Compliant device.
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The Hypertech is by far more simplistic and I wish it accounted for more vehicle mods (like headers and CAI). It does account for gearing, tire size, and allows you to adjust speed limiter, rev limiter, shift points, and shift pressures. The tunes it contains are essentially: Performance (more HP), Tow (more Torque), Extreme Fuel Savings (de-tune), and Stock. You can vary within those with the Advanced Tuning features.
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I use the Torque tune most of the time adjusted for my gearing and tires - I also increase the rev and speed limiters. If I'm driving a long freeway - if I think about it - I'll put in the XFS tune. I NEVER run the Performance tune as my understanding is that is more of a WOT application which I'm not interested in.
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FWIW - my Av seems to run best on the Torque Tune. There is a noticeable difference between XFS-Stock when compared with Torque. With Torque Tune (you also have to run at least 91 octane) the Av gets moving much more efficiently and accelerates much harder. It's what I keep in it nearly all the time. On the DV trip, I was in XFS because we were going to be remote so I was trying to maximize MPG - and it worked really well with me getting 12mpg and being in 4WD the entire time with a lot of time in 4 low. However, when we did the climb to Cerro Gordo - I forgot to change the tune back to torque - and it was noticeably down on power and torque. I changed it back to torque and it performed very well.
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Hope that helps.
-Bill
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The Hypertech is by far more simplistic and I wish it accounted for more vehicle mods (like headers and CAI). It does account for gearing, tire size, and allows you to adjust speed limiter, rev limiter, shift points, and shift pressures. The tunes it contains are essentially: Performance (more HP), Tow (more Torque), Extreme Fuel Savings (de-tune), and Stock. You can vary within those with the Advanced Tuning features.
//
I use the Torque tune most of the time adjusted for my gearing and tires - I also increase the rev and speed limiters. If I'm driving a long freeway - if I think about it - I'll put in the XFS tune. I NEVER run the Performance tune as my understanding is that is more of a WOT application which I'm not interested in.
//
FWIW - my Av seems to run best on the Torque Tune. There is a noticeable difference between XFS-Stock when compared with Torque. With Torque Tune (you also have to run at least 91 octane) the Av gets moving much more efficiently and accelerates much harder. It's what I keep in it nearly all the time. On the DV trip, I was in XFS because we were going to be remote so I was trying to maximize MPG - and it worked really well with me getting 12mpg and being in 4WD the entire time with a lot of time in 4 low. However, when we did the climb to Cerro Gordo - I forgot to change the tune back to torque - and it was noticeably down on power and torque. I changed it back to torque and it performed very well.
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Hope that helps.
-Bill
Bear in NM
Adventurer
Bill,
That help immensely. I checked out the price and spec's, and it looks like exactly what I need.
My situation pretty much mirrors yours, except I am not in a CARB state. I need simple. I too go from town, to offroad to pulling trailers, and am not interested in CAI or changing my exhaust. I would love to do headers and dual exhaust, but not interested in losing my spare underneath. I am already running mid-grade gas, as I did figure out that my av prefers it. My biggest fear in trying one of these was flashing my computer, and borking it.
I am still getting used to driving an automatic off road. 25 years in a Jeep with a stick, and only a little here and there with an automatic. My Av pulls my two offroad trailers very well, but but when the road gets pretty bad, I could use a little help.
It sounds like flashing is pretty simple from what you describe. I am certainly going to look into picking one up. heck, just getting rid of the top end governor was what got me interested in these things. I do not need to go over 100ish, but just knowing it was there really bugs me.
Thank you very much for taking the time to post up your thoughts,
Craig
That help immensely. I checked out the price and spec's, and it looks like exactly what I need.
My situation pretty much mirrors yours, except I am not in a CARB state. I need simple. I too go from town, to offroad to pulling trailers, and am not interested in CAI or changing my exhaust. I would love to do headers and dual exhaust, but not interested in losing my spare underneath. I am already running mid-grade gas, as I did figure out that my av prefers it. My biggest fear in trying one of these was flashing my computer, and borking it.
I am still getting used to driving an automatic off road. 25 years in a Jeep with a stick, and only a little here and there with an automatic. My Av pulls my two offroad trailers very well, but but when the road gets pretty bad, I could use a little help.
It sounds like flashing is pretty simple from what you describe. I am certainly going to look into picking one up. heck, just getting rid of the top end governor was what got me interested in these things. I do not need to go over 100ish, but just knowing it was there really bugs me.
Thank you very much for taking the time to post up your thoughts,
Craig
Outdooraholic
Adventurer
Looks great! I used to have an '02 Z-71 and really enjoyed it!
Stryder106
Explorer
Craig - the way the Flashpaq works is, you connect it to your OBDII port, it will then put your stock tune into it's memory. Select what you want to to do and input that and it flashes your computer - your stock tune is now in the Flashpaq tuner so if you want to return to stock - just plug it in and select "Stock Tune" - and it will reflash to that.
Bear in NM
Adventurer
Bill,
Thanks again. In looking at the published numbers, they report about 10% more torque when running premium gas. 10% is not a small number, when towing. I'll do bit more research, and make a decision. I am seeing the unit for between 4 and 500 hundred dollars. That is pretty pricey, but it has been on my list to explore.
Craig
Thanks again. In looking at the published numbers, they report about 10% more torque when running premium gas. 10% is not a small number, when towing. I'll do bit more research, and make a decision. I am seeing the unit for between 4 and 500 hundred dollars. That is pretty pricey, but it has been on my list to explore.
Craig
Stryder106
Explorer
Since you are not in a CARB state, check out a set of Doug Thorley long tube headers - they should help immensely. I was forced to use the shorty headers due to CARB and they added a little HP and a little torque, but more importantly to me - they pulled my torque to way earlier in the RPM band.
Bear in NM
Adventurer
Not ready for for engine mods at this point. That type of work is a bit above my skill set, and we have no real muffler shops here in town. But I'll save the info.
Thanks,
Craig
Thanks,
Craig
Stryder106
Explorer
Update time again. I installed the new 225amp Powermaster alternator to go along with the new heavy duty cabling, and it performs very well. I also installed new upper and lower radiator hoses, added new heater hoses (thankfully because the fitting on the original was brittle and snapped easily) flushed the radiator and added new DexCool (though it seems I only got 12 quarts of the old stuff out as that's all that went back in - so I guess I did a 3/4 flush). No real sexy pics, but here are a few:
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I also installed new Spicer 5-795X Triple Sealed Solid U-Joints in all four spots. The clunk I had when shifting is now completely gone and the driveline feels tighter - so I guess 180K miles and 15 years is nearing the upper limit of the OEM u-joint lifecycle - not too shappy GM. No pics - nothing to see here, move right along.
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Sticking with the driveline theme, I was hearing a faint rotating noise from the rear of my Av. At first I was thinking ARB locker as it is nearing it's initial service check, but then I remembered the last time I heard that faint noise coming from the front it ended up being a wheel bearing letting go on the way home from San Diego. My rear wheel bearing are the factory originals. Combining those two thoughts with a nagging thought I've had regarding the strength of the stock rear axles given the amount of weight on the truck combined with the 4.88 gears, locker, and 35" tires - I had been giving serious thought to stronger axles. Another thing is the stock differential cover. It is thin stamped steel. ARB makes a very strong one that is shaped to also help disperse force and add strength to the overall rearend. I tried to put one of these on when I first had the locker and gears done (I have a custom track bar so space isn't an issue), but the locker bolts were hitting the inside - so I stayed with my stock one. This time however, I was curious so I called ARB Tech and they told me they make them that way on purpose and to just grind out the excess to make it fit. Um, OK - seems like they would just make them big enough to fit everything rather than everyone having to grind them. When I did my gears in late October, I also had a master bearing kit installed - so everything inside of the pumpkin is fresh. On this go around, the Av got: New ARB diff cover, G2 hardened cold rolled alloy steel axles, new wheel bearings, fresh oil, and the locker checked out. Ready to roll.
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My buddy who designed and built the suspension wasn't real happy that I had installed Spohn Performance tubular rear control arms. So, while he was revalving my shocks to account for the increased weight, he made new ones and installed them. While I was happy with the Spohn's (I only ever did one trip with them), the ones he built are downright beefy and stout.
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I also installed new Spicer 5-795X Triple Sealed Solid U-Joints in all four spots. The clunk I had when shifting is now completely gone and the driveline feels tighter - so I guess 180K miles and 15 years is nearing the upper limit of the OEM u-joint lifecycle - not too shappy GM. No pics - nothing to see here, move right along.
//
Sticking with the driveline theme, I was hearing a faint rotating noise from the rear of my Av. At first I was thinking ARB locker as it is nearing it's initial service check, but then I remembered the last time I heard that faint noise coming from the front it ended up being a wheel bearing letting go on the way home from San Diego. My rear wheel bearing are the factory originals. Combining those two thoughts with a nagging thought I've had regarding the strength of the stock rear axles given the amount of weight on the truck combined with the 4.88 gears, locker, and 35" tires - I had been giving serious thought to stronger axles. Another thing is the stock differential cover. It is thin stamped steel. ARB makes a very strong one that is shaped to also help disperse force and add strength to the overall rearend. I tried to put one of these on when I first had the locker and gears done (I have a custom track bar so space isn't an issue), but the locker bolts were hitting the inside - so I stayed with my stock one. This time however, I was curious so I called ARB Tech and they told me they make them that way on purpose and to just grind out the excess to make it fit. Um, OK - seems like they would just make them big enough to fit everything rather than everyone having to grind them. When I did my gears in late October, I also had a master bearing kit installed - so everything inside of the pumpkin is fresh. On this go around, the Av got: New ARB diff cover, G2 hardened cold rolled alloy steel axles, new wheel bearings, fresh oil, and the locker checked out. Ready to roll.
//
My buddy who designed and built the suspension wasn't real happy that I had installed Spohn Performance tubular rear control arms. So, while he was revalving my shocks to account for the increased weight, he made new ones and installed them. While I was happy with the Spohn's (I only ever did one trip with them), the ones he built are downright beefy and stout.
Stryder106
Explorer
Now, it's time to start practicing setting up the new Eezi-Awn Xklusiv 1400 RTT. The tent opens easy enough, then for a newbie the game changes a little. There are two things to pay attention to when unpackaging this tent for the first time - and both have to do with the ladder box. First, The hinge rod for the ladder has two small sprung steel end caps. One of them is on the rod, the other isn't. Rather it is taped to a wrung on the ladder - under masking tape - so not real obvious on first search (hence Paul at Equipt sending me another one - found the original later). The second item, which is a hook about 10" long and also taped to a ladder wrung Is actually to stake the ladder to the ground and NOT as I assumed a hook so short people could reach the ladder to pull it down to open their RTT (Paul got a serious laugh at that one). Eezi-Awn has great instructions - for what they describe - they are a bit incomplete though. It would be useful to actually create and put a dedicated set for and in the ladder box as well as the Annex box. Here is our first go at setting it up:
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Here's where it got interesting. Tip 1 - Remove the plastic bag from around the mattress pad BEFORE mounting the tent on your truck. Tip 2 - There are a total of 6 fly poles for the window flaps - they look identical - but they are not. Two are bigger than the other four - but only slightly so - and there is no labeling. After figuring it out, a piece of black tape wrapped around the top end of the two longer ones make it much simpler and quicker.
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The Annex - ugh - zero instructions and the How To videos from Equipt, while useful, are NOT for an Xklusiv and therefore do NOT show how to setup the Annex. It would seem straight forward, but the walls are not labeled and can go on either side - either direction - until you try to zip them up. This took a while to get right - and it was 100F and really humid - which didn't help the patience level at all.
Once we got it sorted out, we did two things: 1) We used a sharpie to label the inside of each panel; 2) We zipped the 3 outer walls together and packed them away like that so on our next practice run, we can put up the back wall and then just slide the other 3 on without having to figure out each panel or zip them.
Since we are only practicing, we did not stake it down - so it's a little floppy and not quite to shape. We also put our bedding inside of it to ensure it will close - which it did. All in all - our first setup took us 30 minutes and take down took about 20 minutes. Tonight will be Round 2, and I would expect to cut that in at least half knowing what we do now and with the labeling-pre-zip we did. I also now know what will fit where in the Annex bag and which portions of the tent to pay particular attention to when closing. If we can get the setup and tear down to about 10 mins each - I will be happy camper (pun fully intended).
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Here's where it got interesting. Tip 1 - Remove the plastic bag from around the mattress pad BEFORE mounting the tent on your truck. Tip 2 - There are a total of 6 fly poles for the window flaps - they look identical - but they are not. Two are bigger than the other four - but only slightly so - and there is no labeling. After figuring it out, a piece of black tape wrapped around the top end of the two longer ones make it much simpler and quicker.
//
The Annex - ugh - zero instructions and the How To videos from Equipt, while useful, are NOT for an Xklusiv and therefore do NOT show how to setup the Annex. It would seem straight forward, but the walls are not labeled and can go on either side - either direction - until you try to zip them up. This took a while to get right - and it was 100F and really humid - which didn't help the patience level at all.
Once we got it sorted out, we did two things: 1) We used a sharpie to label the inside of each panel; 2) We zipped the 3 outer walls together and packed them away like that so on our next practice run, we can put up the back wall and then just slide the other 3 on without having to figure out each panel or zip them.
Since we are only practicing, we did not stake it down - so it's a little floppy and not quite to shape. We also put our bedding inside of it to ensure it will close - which it did. All in all - our first setup took us 30 minutes and take down took about 20 minutes. Tonight will be Round 2, and I would expect to cut that in at least half knowing what we do now and with the labeling-pre-zip we did. I also now know what will fit where in the Annex bag and which portions of the tent to pay particular attention to when closing. If we can get the setup and tear down to about 10 mins each - I will be happy camper (pun fully intended).
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