Stryder106
Explorer
Fixed the links.
My 02 Avalanche NFE
- Thread starter Stryder106
- Start date
Stryder106
Explorer
More updates. Getting ready for what will be the biggest trip we have ever done - 11 days total, 3 across Utah and then 7 across CO - with all of the CO stuff being on dirt across the Rockies - and 1 day home. Being able to do trips like this is why I've been updating, upgrading, and modding like crazy for the past 8 months. From a preventive maintenance perspective, I decided to have my transfer case rebuilt (particularly given the pump rub issue I've heard so much about) as I had never done anything to it other than change the fluid. Fortunately, my case only showed minor rubbing with no hole - so I had them put in the aftermarket ring that has a flat flange rather than the sharp edge from the factory, and all new bearing, seals, and chain (my chain was sloppy). Upon leaving the shop, the owner told me to "keep an eye on the seals for a few days as they don't always take." Well - all was good until 4 days later when I found a great big blue puddle of Auto Trac II fluid under my truck - did I mention that I'm leaving on the biggest trip I've ever undertaken in just a few days? Urgent call to the shop, throw my extra fluid in the T-Case and boogie down there. They pull it apart and find that the seal for the forward shaft was mangled - it didn't seat in properly. Replaced and on my way in 90 minutes. Drove it like crazy in 4WD for 3 days - no leaks so this one looks good.
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The other night we were going to dinner and it started raining like crazy. When I came to a stop at a light, water dripped onto my GF from the top corner of my windshield - uh oh. Did I mention this trip is in a few days, it's in Colorado - and where we are going it's been raining every singe day? I called a local shop who had replaced my driver side window when some @#$#@ decided to break it while it was parked. They were awesome, inexpensive, and I swore I would give them any future business. Tah-Dah!!! Future business. I took it down there to get a new seal, and the guy said it would be cheaper and easier to replace the entire windshield. OK - so 45 minutes and $100 later - I have a brand new windshield and seal. Woohoo!! - I'll get to see scenery without the glaring pits from desert sand.
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Lots of other last minute mods, fab, and adjustments including new front LCAs and new tires. Also got the spacers on it in the rear and loaded it sits like it's supposed to. Here are a few pics - ready to go. Just need to throw in the supplies and program the repeaters into the radio.
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The other night we were going to dinner and it started raining like crazy. When I came to a stop at a light, water dripped onto my GF from the top corner of my windshield - uh oh. Did I mention this trip is in a few days, it's in Colorado - and where we are going it's been raining every singe day? I called a local shop who had replaced my driver side window when some @#$#@ decided to break it while it was parked. They were awesome, inexpensive, and I swore I would give them any future business. Tah-Dah!!! Future business. I took it down there to get a new seal, and the guy said it would be cheaper and easier to replace the entire windshield. OK - so 45 minutes and $100 later - I have a brand new windshield and seal. Woohoo!! - I'll get to see scenery without the glaring pits from desert sand.
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Lots of other last minute mods, fab, and adjustments including new front LCAs and new tires. Also got the spacers on it in the rear and loaded it sits like it's supposed to. Here are a few pics - ready to go. Just need to throw in the supplies and program the repeaters into the radio.
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Bear in NM
Adventurer
Looking good. yes, mechanical work before a trip is stressful, to say the least. I did a long weekend with my trailer this last weekend, and the most stress I had was from 12volt air compressor going out (for my airbags). I can still work a bicycle pump, just fine ;^)
I am in NM just south of the CO border, and we are still having the monsoon moisture. It should be mostly done by this time of the year, but not this year in the Rockies. The higher up you go, the smaller the size of the hail.
We also have bow season upon us out this way, and you are going to find a lot of the Colorado high country fairly busy. And as Colorado has an extremely high percentage of out of state hunters, you will likely have a lot of idiots doing really stupid stuff with ATV's and side by sides.
Sounds like you have your radio stuff sorted out, but I would mention that the NOAA weather frequencies work well on radios with it up in the high country, and the forecasts are usually very reliable.
Have fun,
Craig
I am in NM just south of the CO border, and we are still having the monsoon moisture. It should be mostly done by this time of the year, but not this year in the Rockies. The higher up you go, the smaller the size of the hail.
We also have bow season upon us out this way, and you are going to find a lot of the Colorado high country fairly busy. And as Colorado has an extremely high percentage of out of state hunters, you will likely have a lot of idiots doing really stupid stuff with ATV's and side by sides.
Sounds like you have your radio stuff sorted out, but I would mention that the NOAA weather frequencies work well on radios with it up in the high country, and the forecasts are usually very reliable.
Have fun,
Craig
Stryder106
Explorer
Dammit THAT'S why I ran down to Big 5. I got there and went - ****** did I just come here for? And bought some trout bait and left. Gotta do another run down there. Thanks for the reminder - I need the roll bar mount to go on my roof rack.
Stryder106
Explorer
Many Thanks!!!
Stryder106
Explorer
Yup - we are solo across UT, but then with a 9 or so vehicle group in CO. I'm programming in the repeaters after a meeting tonight and the NOAA channels - and then learning how to put my radio on scan for both bands..........LOL.
Bear in NM
Adventurer
Eh, bring all of your new goodies manuals. Gives you something to do in camp while the coffee is perking, and everyone else is looking for that "perfect log". I have had really good luck with the small handheld GMR radios. Even the very inexpensive ones will have NOAA weather bands. They don't have the cool factor of the dedicated electronic load-out of cb's or shortwave, but they do work and are darn handy.
Dang, 9 rigs. You do realize that there is a big downside to being the most prepared rig in the bunch.....Sitting around the campfire at night, you are going to be "that" guy. The one that the other drivers appreciate the help, until their gals start rubbing their noses about not being prepared well enough.....
Craig
Dang, 9 rigs. You do realize that there is a big downside to being the most prepared rig in the bunch.....Sitting around the campfire at night, you are going to be "that" guy. The one that the other drivers appreciate the help, until their gals start rubbing their noses about not being prepared well enough.....
Craig
Stryder106
Explorer
Haven't posted anything up in awhile - been slammed. Haven't done too much to the Av since we got back from the UT-CO trip other than some punch list items here and there. Although - a few big mods happening tomorrow - I'll post those up when they are done for sure.
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For those of you who knew about the UT-CO trip we did: UT was spectacular and now have a lot of ideas for a dedicated trip in the next few years. CO ended up being 15 rigs in the group, but for those of you who saw, there was a tragic incident on day 2/8 that ended up cutting the trip short (yes, that was my group). Short version: an InReach is a very worthwhile investment.
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For those of you who knew about the UT-CO trip we did: UT was spectacular and now have a lot of ideas for a dedicated trip in the next few years. CO ended up being 15 rigs in the group, but for those of you who saw, there was a tragic incident on day 2/8 that ended up cutting the trip short (yes, that was my group). Short version: an InReach is a very worthwhile investment.
Stryder106
Explorer
UPDATE Time - YAY!!!!!! Once back from the big trip, I had a punch list of items to take care of from lessons learned. One of the more frustrating items was my new ARB 63L Fridge/Freezer. The night before the trip, I turned it on to get down to temp - it was at 64F. Note, when I installed it, I used the ARB screw in connector and the ARB wiring harness and I wired it to a 25a toggle switch on my console - this way I wouldn't have to constantly plug it in and unplug (my fear was prematurely wearing out the connector port on the back of the fridge).
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I flip it on, it powers up - all good. When I get up in the morning and go to load the fridge (11 hours later) I notice it is still sitting at 64F - ******? It's not cooling off. This begins a frantic series of text messages with Will who owns Sierra Expeditions because we are literally leaving in 2 hours for an 11 day trip and my fancy new ARB fridge is not working. Will hooks me up with a direct connection in ARB Tech Support. Give him a call and explain my situation. He tells me to unplug from me vehicle and plug it into the wall. I do and it instantly starts cooling off. He says the issue is the wiring in my truck. I counter with I don't think so because my batteries and alternator are on 00 and 4 and I'm using the ARB 10gauge wiring harness and ask if the issue could be with the 12v side of the fridge board? He replies that it could be and instantly starts trying to find me a replacement fridge in my area. No dice - and I'm literally now 20 mins from having to leave. This is when ARB went way above and beyond. He asked me what our route was going to be and where we were staying when. I gave him our first two nights in UT, but then once in CO we were going to be remote for a week. He hung up and called me back 10 minutes later telling me not to worry - he found a replacement fridge with an outfitter in UT and they are overnighting it to the hotel I would be at the following night. Sure enough, when we got there, the ARB was sitting there waiting for us.
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Interestingly, during the two days of transit across UT prior to getting to that hotel, the fridge was suddenly working flawlessly - really cold - so I was wondering if perhaps you're supposed to plug into a wall first to activate something in the 12v side. This made me all the more convinced that I was right and ARB tech was wrong because if the wiring in my truck was the issue it wouldn't be working. I was hesitant to swap it, but since they went to all the trouble to get it to me, I swapped it out. I plugged it in in the room first and it started dropping temp pretty fast so all good. In the morning, I swapped the fridges and loaded up the new one and off we went for the rest of UT and then Colorado that night.
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The fridge performed flawlessly Saturday, Sunday, Monday, Tuesday - but we stayed in a hotel room Tuesday night (long story but the trip through CO got cut short) so we ate breakfast at the hotel before taking off. Then a few hours later, we stopped for fuel and my girlfriend wanted something out of the fridge - so I opened the tailgate and it was at 60F!!! Oh crap. Opened it up and all of our meat was completely thawed out - since I didn't know for how long - I tossed the meat out. It was then sporadic. There is no way that TWO ARB fridges can do this - back to back, it has to be something in my truck.
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Once we get home, I call ARB back and they walk me through a few things. I'm still scratching my head as it works perfectly plugged into a wall. Then I noticed it works for awhile during my truck running, it shuts off when I turn my truck off, and it turns off after my truck has been running for about 30 mins. So - I rip apart my console and find the issue. When I wired in the toggle switch - I connected the ARB 10gauge wiring to a power/ground block and ran 14gauge wiring to and from a relay to the switch. The relay was shutting down from the amperage overloading the 14gauge wiring. So, I removed the 14gauge and replaced with 10gauge, removed the relay (it has a fuseable link anyway) and wired straight to the switch. Tah - Dah!!! It works perfect now. So - ARB was right - it was the wiring in my truck.
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But, it is impossible to overstate how awesome ARB was through the whole ordeal and hot swapping a fridge on the fly in the middle of UT was something I won't forget - they won me over as a raving fan.
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Now, thinking through my little situation, I thought it would be really nice to know whether or not my fridge was working while I was driving, but my fridge is in the rear of my Avalanche and completely out of sight. However, it turns out that ARB makes a remote digital monitoring gauge that wirelessly receives signal transmitted by the fridge and shows you what's displayed on the fridge temperature AND also shows you the voltage the fridge is receiving at any given moment. Said monitor is also blue backlit for easy night viewing. It is a really nice design and it comes on when the fridge powers up. It comes as a 12V cigarette light plug in, but I cut that off and hard wired it. It has a mounting base with adhesive to stick to a surface for mounting. The dimensions are the exact same as those on the front of my never used ash tray - so that's where I put it (I'll decide if I want to mod the ashtray later and flush mount it. In any event, if you have an ARB fridge or are thinking of getting one - get it, but also get the remote monitor.
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I flip it on, it powers up - all good. When I get up in the morning and go to load the fridge (11 hours later) I notice it is still sitting at 64F - ******? It's not cooling off. This begins a frantic series of text messages with Will who owns Sierra Expeditions because we are literally leaving in 2 hours for an 11 day trip and my fancy new ARB fridge is not working. Will hooks me up with a direct connection in ARB Tech Support. Give him a call and explain my situation. He tells me to unplug from me vehicle and plug it into the wall. I do and it instantly starts cooling off. He says the issue is the wiring in my truck. I counter with I don't think so because my batteries and alternator are on 00 and 4 and I'm using the ARB 10gauge wiring harness and ask if the issue could be with the 12v side of the fridge board? He replies that it could be and instantly starts trying to find me a replacement fridge in my area. No dice - and I'm literally now 20 mins from having to leave. This is when ARB went way above and beyond. He asked me what our route was going to be and where we were staying when. I gave him our first two nights in UT, but then once in CO we were going to be remote for a week. He hung up and called me back 10 minutes later telling me not to worry - he found a replacement fridge with an outfitter in UT and they are overnighting it to the hotel I would be at the following night. Sure enough, when we got there, the ARB was sitting there waiting for us.
//
Interestingly, during the two days of transit across UT prior to getting to that hotel, the fridge was suddenly working flawlessly - really cold - so I was wondering if perhaps you're supposed to plug into a wall first to activate something in the 12v side. This made me all the more convinced that I was right and ARB tech was wrong because if the wiring in my truck was the issue it wouldn't be working. I was hesitant to swap it, but since they went to all the trouble to get it to me, I swapped it out. I plugged it in in the room first and it started dropping temp pretty fast so all good. In the morning, I swapped the fridges and loaded up the new one and off we went for the rest of UT and then Colorado that night.
//
The fridge performed flawlessly Saturday, Sunday, Monday, Tuesday - but we stayed in a hotel room Tuesday night (long story but the trip through CO got cut short) so we ate breakfast at the hotel before taking off. Then a few hours later, we stopped for fuel and my girlfriend wanted something out of the fridge - so I opened the tailgate and it was at 60F!!! Oh crap. Opened it up and all of our meat was completely thawed out - since I didn't know for how long - I tossed the meat out. It was then sporadic. There is no way that TWO ARB fridges can do this - back to back, it has to be something in my truck.
//
Once we get home, I call ARB back and they walk me through a few things. I'm still scratching my head as it works perfectly plugged into a wall. Then I noticed it works for awhile during my truck running, it shuts off when I turn my truck off, and it turns off after my truck has been running for about 30 mins. So - I rip apart my console and find the issue. When I wired in the toggle switch - I connected the ARB 10gauge wiring to a power/ground block and ran 14gauge wiring to and from a relay to the switch. The relay was shutting down from the amperage overloading the 14gauge wiring. So, I removed the 14gauge and replaced with 10gauge, removed the relay (it has a fuseable link anyway) and wired straight to the switch. Tah - Dah!!! It works perfect now. So - ARB was right - it was the wiring in my truck.
//
But, it is impossible to overstate how awesome ARB was through the whole ordeal and hot swapping a fridge on the fly in the middle of UT was something I won't forget - they won me over as a raving fan.
//
Now, thinking through my little situation, I thought it would be really nice to know whether or not my fridge was working while I was driving, but my fridge is in the rear of my Avalanche and completely out of sight. However, it turns out that ARB makes a remote digital monitoring gauge that wirelessly receives signal transmitted by the fridge and shows you what's displayed on the fridge temperature AND also shows you the voltage the fridge is receiving at any given moment. Said monitor is also blue backlit for easy night viewing. It is a really nice design and it comes on when the fridge powers up. It comes as a 12V cigarette light plug in, but I cut that off and hard wired it. It has a mounting base with adhesive to stick to a surface for mounting. The dimensions are the exact same as those on the front of my never used ash tray - so that's where I put it (I'll decide if I want to mod the ashtray later and flush mount it. In any event, if you have an ARB fridge or are thinking of getting one - get it, but also get the remote monitor.
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Stryder106
Explorer
Another Update: A year and a half ago, one of the more respected members of the overland community advised that one of the most valuable pieces of gear I could add to my vehicle was a Premier Power Welder as it enables the ability to weld repairs on more serious issues that could otherwise leave you and your vehicle completely stranded. In my view, I had more pressing needs to address well before that so it never got done. Well, I've checked off a lot of the list and next thing I know I'm getting this little beauty installed in my Avalanche. The guys at Premier Power Welder build a fantastic product that is extremely capable (it will even power electric tools). After they did a really stellar job on the install (and letting me work from their desk while they did it) I got to do some practice welding with it and it is really impressive.
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The PPW uses a high amp (195a) alternator to operate. I had recently installed a 225a alternator, butthey needed to modify it and create an external resister for it. This was a first of it's kind build - which they will now market and sell, but it is the shiny chrome piece mounted on the back of the welding unit.
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The PPW uses a high amp (195a) alternator to operate. I had recently installed a 225a alternator, butthey needed to modify it and create an external resister for it. This was a first of it's kind build - which they will now market and sell, but it is the shiny chrome piece mounted on the back of the welding unit.
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rayra
Expedition Leader
Great testimonial on ARB and great problem solving / customer tech support by that guy.
Love the welder idea, not keen on underhood heat and electronics in general. not in our climes, anyway. But I know nothing of that company, presumably they have that solved. I also suppose that the current / heat of a buzz box sort of makes the under hood heat moot anyway,
If the incident you are referring to is the same rollover / helo evac I posted in the Toyota forum here - http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/176504-So-whose-4Runner-rollover-in-CO-is-this
I'd very much appreciate any info you can relate on how that accident happened. The few pictures I saw I had to figure it was driver inputs that caused it, braking at the wrong time, top heavy? The ground in those pictures didn't look that treacherous to me and I was trying to understand how the hell it happened, as a 'lessons learned' sort of thing. Just got trolled for the trouble of asking. Had no idea it was where you were heading.
Love the welder idea, not keen on underhood heat and electronics in general. not in our climes, anyway. But I know nothing of that company, presumably they have that solved. I also suppose that the current / heat of a buzz box sort of makes the under hood heat moot anyway,
If the incident you are referring to is the same rollover / helo evac I posted in the Toyota forum here - http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/176504-So-whose-4Runner-rollover-in-CO-is-this
I'd very much appreciate any info you can relate on how that accident happened. The few pictures I saw I had to figure it was driver inputs that caused it, braking at the wrong time, top heavy? The ground in those pictures didn't look that treacherous to me and I was trying to understand how the hell it happened, as a 'lessons learned' sort of thing. Just got trolled for the trouble of asking. Had no idea it was where you were heading.
Hi Stryder106
Had a good read through your setup for your Avalanche,has some great ideas for practical use, a fantastic vehicle! Glad you getting out enjoying it.
Assume the welder is mainly for emergency use in remote areas? Is the alternator enough on idle to use the welder or does it require additional battery/ throttle voltage?
Cheers Hagar
Had a good read through your setup for your Avalanche,has some great ideas for practical use, a fantastic vehicle! Glad you getting out enjoying it.
Assume the welder is mainly for emergency use in remote areas? Is the alternator enough on idle to use the welder or does it require additional battery/ throttle voltage?
Cheers Hagar
Stryder106
Explorer
Thanks for the compliment. The welder - yes for emergency repairs when remote. Premier makes and sells with the welder a 195amp alternator, but mine was 225a so I kept mine and they just had to make an external resistor for it. The way it works is - they install an underhood throttle control cable. To weld - you use the cable to bring the RPMs up into a particular section of the amp gauge on the box - the needle is displaying the amperage at whatever rpm you are at. There is a section labeled "Weld" - put the needle just at the start of that section for 6011 3/32" rod, a bit more for 6011 1/8" rod, and a bit more for 7018 rod. If you want to run a power tool, you use the throttle cable to further increase the rpm to final red section on the gauge labeled "Power Tool". Flip the power tool switch, plug in your tool and away you go. Then, hit the red button on the throttle cable and it release and your engine drops back to idle.