My 2000 4runner. Linked, Locked, ADDICTED!

AddictedOffroad

Adventurer
Thanks for the info, I have a 97. Any idea what the tank width dimension is (axle to bumper)? I have a custom bumper, just wondering if I still have enough room. Also, I'm guessing you ditched the stock tank, correct? I'm interested in gaining fuel capacity and thinking of ways to integrate both.

Unless you cut your frame rails back, you will have room. Mine basically goes right to the edge of the frame rails. FWIW, its a 19.2 gallon tank, so its larger than the stock one.

Yes, I ditched the stock one as I had to for the dual triangulated 4-link in the rear.

The other nice thing is being able to actually FILL the tank without adding an extra 3.5 gallons once it clicks off like on the stock one. Both of my 2000s did that and it drove me nuts.
 
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sweet trav

Adventurer
Scotty, can you pm me with a "close" guestimate on what it might cost to do a sas on my 4runner? Also, since I have the 2.7 (with intake and headers and looking for a power pulley system or other additions for power) would you suggest doing a sas and running 35's or would it push 37's? Thanks for any info and that's a great build.

here's a few pics of mine as it sits now so you can get an idea of where I'm at...

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AddictedOffroad

Adventurer
Scotty, can you pm me with a "close" guestimate on what it might cost to do a sas on my 4runner? Also, since I have the 2.7 (with intake and headers and looking for a power pulley system or other additions for power) would you suggest doing a sas and running 35's or would it push 37's? Thanks for any info and that's a great build.

here's a few pics of mine as it sits now so you can get an idea of where I'm at...

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46455_431493432420_554392420_4892180_5272522_n.jpg


58633_431493512420_554392420_4892183_7246938_n.jpg

Trav, there are so many variables involved in a Tacoma/3rd gen SAS that its impossible to just quote it.

Linked, leafs, steering, etc Its all different and based on one thing after the other. Its much easier if you can give me a call at the shop so I can go over some questions and stuff.

But, with the 5spd you can run 35s-37s with 5.29s in the axles. You won't win any races, but it will do just fine.
 

chp-sk8

Adventurer
i have been on here for a long time...surfing. I have to say...NICE JOB Brother! I am a builder myself...and try to stay away from the store bought route (nothing wrong with that) but I like to know I built what I am driving. I would PM you some pics of my last build but I am Currently deployed in A-Stan. Keep up the great work! I got dibs on this rig when it goes up 4-sale:coffeedrink:
 

AddictedOffroad

Adventurer
i have been on here for a long time...surfing. I have to say...NICE JOB Brother! I am a builder myself...and try to stay away from the store bought route (nothing wrong with that) but I like to know I built what I am driving. I would PM you some pics of my last build but I am Currently deployed in A-Stan. Keep up the great work! I got dibs on this rig when it goes up 4-sale:coffeedrink:

Thank you. This biuld was a lot of work, but its really paid off. I am running up to Wheeler Lake on the 18th, so I will get some more pics up of how it actually works.

Oh, and I have no plans to sell it. Price range on this thing would be buggy like anyway, so I am sure the sticker shock would hurt most people. :coffeedrink:
 

AddictedOffroad

Adventurer
So, I was thoroughly tired of dealing with bending on my old Pro Tools bender. It had served me well for the better part of 6 years. I started out manually bending with it, and then went to air/hydro a couple years ago. I had run MILES of tubing through it and it was time to retire it for a better system.

Despite going air/hydro, it would still take a couple minutes to bend out a 45 degree bend. Well, now it takes 10 seconds.

Today, the freight boys dropped off my new bender. I bought a JMR 1000 series electric/hydro unit.

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This bad boy bends a 90* in a single throw in about 20 seconds. I bent out two full bumpers today in seven minutes, and that included switching dies from the 1.75" to the 1.25".

The dies are billet and warrantied for life. The pins are all heat treated 4140 cromoly. The cylinder is built in-house at JMR and is not only full hydro out, but also in. So, it retracts just as fast as it does extending.

FWIW, I have run both a Pro Tools and JD2. This bender is just ************ in comparison.
 

AddictedOffroad

Adventurer
So, I got Mr. Shiny all cleaned up for some pics.

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I also ordered up a Scan Gauge II for it last week. This will help me to keep an eye the Air/Fuel ratio with the Supercharger and some other "real-time" stuff I really want to watch.

I have been seriously considering the 7th injector kit at this point. I recently grabbed a A340 valve body to play with out of a T-100, so I plan on shimming the actuator when I get a chance, and install it into mine. Hopefully this will help the tranny life more. I pretty much baby it everywhere, but there are time when I "accidentally" hit WOT.


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Ryanmb21

Expedition Leader
Awesome build, very impressive how you kept the vehicle low with 37's. Thank you for not choosing blacked out wheels. Looks SO good.
 

4Rescue

Expedition Leader
Yet another Beauty of a rig mate... I LOVE how low you've kept it and are still able to run 37's.

Curious about a few things.

1) Why run such a difference in F/R axle widths??? Maybe it's just the angle of the rirst pics, but it looks odd with the wider front track. Seems the stability of the rig could be helped with a matching rear width. Does it have to do with the leverage ratio and flex of different suspension cycles front to rear??? In my head I'm amaginiibng that the way you're set up the front end would have a leverage advantage over the rear and would then cause the rear to flex harder, maybe I'm off so that's why I ask...

2) WHat ever happened to the 4BT Mini-truck you were building??? Loved that build you had going over on Yotatech.

Cheers

Dave
 
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