My 2001 Pathfinder (R50 ) mild/budget build
- Thread starter stioc
- Start date
stioc
Expedition Leader
The AC lift is done!!!
I didn't get the NX4 spacers in time so I went ahead and used the OME spacers (3/8") in the front. I was really hoping the NX4 spacers would get here in time that way I could use the longer bolts that come with them and be prepared to install the spacers down the road but it wasn't meant to be. I couldn't wait because I have a Death Valley trip coming up at the end of the month and between now and then I won't have much time to do this. Since we'll also be passing through a couple of tougher sections of DV and loaded down with 4-5 days of supplies a little extra ground clearance would be helpful.
I must say that after having done this job twice in 6 mos I don't think I'll be ready to do it again anytime soon- hopefully I'll never have to at least on this truck!
Measurements wise, as soon as I took it off the lift it was sitting at about 37" ground to the edge of the flares! After driving it a bit (and gently bouncing it several times using brakes and the dip in my driveway lol) it's sitting at 36" in the front and 35.5" in the back. This is how it should sit so I'm hoping it doesn't settle more than .5" over time. The OMEs were approx 34" all the way around after settling.
Remember this from about 2 months ago when I installed the AC springs and I measured the height at 36" in front? Well I'm sad to say that they've sagged down to 35" and that's with the OME spacers
The rear is just a hair lower than 35". So far it's still about 1" higher than my OME MD springs but I was REALLY hoping they would stay at 35.5" at least. On the positive side the ride has become a bit better- which is what prompted me to check the ride height again.
stioc
Expedition Leader
Turns out the passenger side sits about .5" higher so that's at 35.5" - I thought with the big battery on that side it might be lower.
I had another quick look at the front suspension and I found that if I grab the wheel at 12o'clock and 6o'clock I have about 1/4" play on both the driver and passenger side. I thought it could be the spacers so I took them off but the play is still there. I can't get enough leverage to move the hub without without the wheels on though. I'm thinking when I installed the WARN hubs may be I didn't tighten the axle nut enough? I know on the sealed hubs there's supposed to be no hub but on these hubs a little bit should be ok?
I had another quick look at the front suspension and I found that if I grab the wheel at 12o'clock and 6o'clock I have about 1/4" play on both the driver and passenger side. I thought it could be the spacers so I took them off but the play is still there. I can't get enough leverage to move the hub without without the wheels on though. I'm thinking when I installed the WARN hubs may be I didn't tighten the axle nut enough? I know on the sealed hubs there's supposed to be no hub but on these hubs a little bit should be ok?
bushnut
Adventurer
bearing end play is usually bad.... it will lead to wheel bearings being hammered to pieces. Have you locked the hubs and done the same test? any difference? if not I'd say it's time for wheel bearing replacement. However I'd also check the rest of the suspension as well as CV joints and all the bushings just to be thorough.
txfactor76
Observer
Bearing play is good on our style of hub and bearing. The play you mention (grab the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and push/pull) is normal and required for the tapered roller bearings to do their job. Remember, the torque spec on the axle nut is just a little bit past hand tight. Normal install procedure is to tighten the axle nut to about 75lb-ft, rotate the wheel at least one complete revolution in both directions, then completely loosen the axle nut. Run it down hand tight. The official torque spec is 13.0 INCH-pounds.
BTW, my driver's side sits a LOT lower than the passenger side - maybe a full inch.
BTW, my driver's side sits a LOT lower than the passenger side - maybe a full inch.
txfactor76
Observer
With the weight of the car off the ground, you should not have any axial end play. E.g. you should not be able to push/pull the wheel in and out. You should be able to tilt it back and forth, as you've experienced.
stioc
Expedition Leader
You mean there should NOT be any play at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock but 12-6o'clock play is OK? I saw 0mm axial play in the FSM but wasn't clear what they meant. If it is 3-9o'clock they're referring to then I do have a little bit of play which is likely either the inner tie-rod or the rack itself. There is usually a rack adjustment nut to take up some slack, not sure if there is one on the Pathy?
Thanks for the info!
txfactor76
Observer
With both hands on the wheel (whether at 3/9 or 6/12 or 10/4), you should not feel any play if both your hands are pushing, or both hands are pulling. Basically, you should not be able to slide the wheel/hub assembly back and forth on the axle.
By best advice would be to put the front end int he air, pull off the hubs, then properly torque the axle nut per the service manual. You definitely don't want to overheat and destroy the bearings if you have them tightened to 100lb-ft, like many FWD cars require.
By best advice would be to put the front end int he air, pull off the hubs, then properly torque the axle nut per the service manual. You definitely don't want to overheat and destroy the bearings if you have them tightened to 100lb-ft, like many FWD cars require.
txfactor76
Observer
Meh, it'll be fine. Save your money.
stioc
Expedition Leader
I removed it when I did the Warn hub install last year in Aug or so. I did repack the bearings and should've done the rotors too.
I'm not too worried about the hubs as I don't think they're causing the new clunk/creak, it's something else that I haven't been able to figure out myself so far.
I'm not too worried about the hubs as I don't think they're causing the new clunk/creak, it's something else that I haven't been able to figure out myself so far.
Co-opski
Expedition Leader
Do the R50s have the weak centerlink that the xterra and frontier's do? How are your cam bolts and A-arm bushings?
Just typing out loud, my friend who drives a Qx4 always comments on my Frontier saying it squeaks like a Nissan. I just write it off as a truck and my poly bushings.
Just typing out loud, my friend who drives a Qx4 always comments on my Frontier saying it squeaks like a Nissan. I just write it off as a truck and my poly bushings.