My 2001 Pathfinder (R50 ) mild/budget build

[stioc]

I like the look of the IPFs and your stock jeweled headlights very clean set-up. Looking forward to some pictures of your death valley trip. :smiley_drive:

Thanks and I'll definitely post those pics.

The IPF look good. I wonder how much light the guard blocks?

I don't like to run the light guards but when on a dirt trail following other trucks they just may help save the lense some day at the expense of lesser light.

For a quick and clean wiring job, consider energizing your relay from the headlight hi-beam wire at the bulb. Hi-beams on = aux lights on. No wiring inside the cab and no unsightly switch on the dash. You'd lose the ability to run the aux lights independent of the headlights, but would you ever run them that way anyway?

That's a great thought, I like the advantages and it's also what the Hella instructions suggested...but I like doing things the hard way. I already ran the wiring and switch to the cab for the Hellas. The main reason was my factory lights have a horrible high beam aim, when they're on they light up the sky but darken the ground (that's an exaggeration but you get the point). So I'd prefer to leave the lows on but turn on the aux lights for looking further down the trail or an unlit backcountry road. I'm thinking if I should swap the 55w (road legal) bulbs for the included 100w bulbs (offroad only). I guess I'll try the 55w first, less current draw would be nice though with my ginormous battery I'm not too concerned.

 

[stioc]

Small update, I drilled and tapped the MV-50 compressor to accept the standard 1/4" fittings and mounted a quick disconnect with an elbow. The reason was one the clearance there with the big battery is too tight for the hose end to fit properly. To fix the clearance issue and make it a breeze and joy to use I decided to use an elbow and make the opening point upward. Turns out the MV50 has a metric thread pitch- no bueno! Once tapped and the elbow installed the clearance issue was completely fixed. However, one of the common problems with the MV50 is the leak around the hose fittings and with the cheap hose they include where you have to thread/unthread the end into the valve stem all the while the air is escaping from the tire. So I splurged and got the ARB pump-up kit and added a quick disconnect fitting on the elbow. Airing up and checking the pressure is now a snap!

+

Other than that not much new to report as we're getting ready for our 5 day expedition to Death Valley that starts tomorrow! :wings:

BTW I'd be lost without my roof-rack!

Oh in other news, ARB (thanks Rocky Road) warrantied my front springs and sent me a new set! This time I opted for the HD springs as the mediums are too light for the R50s. They told me they're the same spring rate (nice compliant ride) but about .75" taller and with their trim packers (spacers) they're about 1" taller than the mediums. Sweet! but after having done the suspension work twice in 9months I may just sell them even though I liked the ride quality of the OMEs much better than the ACs.

 

[Lecoq]

You should go ahead and install the OME springs. At least you know they were engineered properly. I'm under the impression that the spring rates on the AC coils isn't engineered.

Good purchase on the ARB pump kit. I love mine and it makes it so easy to fill up.

 

[shoesandsocks]

I think u should sell to me got cash waitin for ya lol

 

[stioc]

You should go ahead and install the OME springs. At least you know they were engineered properly. I'm under the impression that the spring rates on the AC coils isn't engineered.

I just may do that, I'm a huge fan of the ARB products and have found them to be well put together. However, I also want the max lift I can get since the R50s overall don't tend to have good ground clearance compared to say a 4Runner or an Xterra (not at the diff which is a function of the tire size but in general). So far the ACs have given me that extra lift without the complexity of doing an SFD- which is a bit too much of a lift for an ExPo rig. However, at the expense of a harsher ride. I wish there were better options for a front strut with custom valving.

Good purchase on the ARB pump kit. I love mine and it makes it so easy to fill up.

So far so good, and if I can shoe-horn a slim 2gal tank somewhere I can probably even run air-tools!

I think u should sell to me got cash waitin for ya lol

We'll talk

 

[tbscan]

Very nice pathfinder stioc, just what I would like mine to look like someday.

Speaking of which, maybe you could lend a few tips for me as I just purchased my pathfinder (first vehicle ) and don't really know much about lifts/suspension (just getting into this kind of thing). What I bought was a 1997 Pathfinder klondike, always been more of a 4runner fan but the price was too hard to pass on especially considering the KM's (or miles for you Americans :elkgrin it has, but I love it so far. Most of my friends like massive lifts and whatnot but that isn't really my style, I much prefer a modest/mild build as that is all I will really need.

What I was thinking was just leveling off the vehicle for starters. I'm not a fan of the way the back end sits up much higher than the front, and would be satisfied with the front end being at the same height as the back. So my biggest concern is how I should go about this and try to stay on budget (this is where I need advice ). Afterwards I'm going to get bigger tires but my friend ill be able to help me out with that.

Thanks in advance :smiley_drive:

 

[txfactor76]

The AC coils will kill the struts in a few years. I've got 2yrs/40kmi on mine and my right-front KYB GR2 is already blown. But you're right that the AC coils are super stiff. I don't even have sway bars on my R50; it rides like butter when you have truly independent suspension.

As for the 33in tires, the 255/85-16 fit better than the 285/75-16 (for KM2s, at least). I've run both; am currently on the 255s. The wider 285s rubbed the "frame" on full-lock.

 

[txfactor76]

So far so good, and if I can shoe-horn a slim 2gal tank somewhere I can probably even run air-tools!

I have a Viair 2.5gal tank under the back where the spare tire used to be. Running air tools off it is nothing more than a dream. It will empty in seconds and your compressor(s) can't fill them up fast enough.

https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/179617_587386557464_1122944_n.jpg

I think I have the same roof basket (Rola Vortex with extension?) and mounted mine directly to the roof rail. I used 8x conduit clamps. It's extremely secure, lower profile, and looks better IMO.

http://i665.photobucket.com/albums/vv19/alexrex20/pathy/DSC08354.jpg
http://i665.photobucket.com/albums/vv19/alexrex20/bachelor run 2011/DSC00116.jpg

 

[txfactor76]

One last thing, before I whore out your thread: I'd recommend relocating your air quick connect. I have one on the front bumper, and another on the rear mounted to the hitch. Not only does it make it more convenient, but it also prevents any pulling on the connections which are hard mounted into the compressor. It may not be much, but anything to help these compressors last as long as possible...

I've had to warranty my ARB CKMA12 compressor twice already. (Both times the bolt backed out, that attaches the conrod to the crankshaft.) The final replacement went to eBay and now I have a Viair.

 

[anstantanople]

this is nearly the perfect build i want to do w/my R50! I will be using this thread for help on when i finally start my budget lift. thank you to the OP, stoic??

 

[stioc]

Very nice pathfinder stioc, just what I would like mine to look like someday.

Speaking of which, maybe you could lend a few tips for me as I just purchased my pathfinder (first vehicle ) and don't really know much about lifts/suspension (just getting into this kind of thing). What I bought was a 1997 Pathfinder klondike, always been more of a 4runner fan but the price was too hard to pass on especially considering the KM's (or miles for you Americans :elkgrin it has, but I love it so far. Most of my friends like massive lifts and whatnot but that isn't really my style, I much prefer a modest/mild build as that is all I will really need.

What I was thinking was just leveling off the vehicle for starters. I'm not a fan of the way the back end sits up much higher than the front, and would be satisfied with the front end being at the same height as the back. So my biggest concern is how I should go about this and try to stay on budget (this is where I need advice ). Afterwards I'm going to get bigger tires but my friend ill be able to help me out with that.

Thanks in advance :smiley_drive:

tbscan, thanks for the compliments on the truck. Regarding your question, I think the first advice I will offer is to think about how you will use the truck and how others in your area use their's. I'm all for starting slow and making only the necessary changes. However, keep in mind that sooner than later you'll likely be going offroading with others and you may have trouble keeping up with them or worse damage something. Good tires and some ground clearance is absolute critical for offroad situations so I would recommend a good set of all-terrain tires, springs and struts/shocks. That's pretty much all you may ever need depending on your wheeling preference and the type of trails you have.

 

[stioc]

The AC coils will kill the struts in a few years. I've got 2yrs/40kmi on mine and my right-front KYB GR2 is already blown. But you're right that the AC coils are super stiff. I don't even have sway bars on my R50; it rides like butter when you have truly independent suspension.

As for the 33in tires, the 255/85-16 fit better than the 285/75-16 (for KM2s, at least). I've run both; am currently on the 255s. The wider 285s rubbed the "frame" on full-lock.

Thanks for the tips. Did you have to remove your fender flares due to the tires rubbing? I'm struggling with the decision on the tire size, I don't want to lose the fender flares or re-gear (the terrain here is anything but flat) though with the 3.5L engine I may be ok there. Honestly, I would love a set of skinny 33s - that's what I want deep down but I may have to go with skinny 32s instead.

I have a Viair 2.5gal tank under the back where the spare tire used to be. Running air tools off it is nothing more than a dream. It will empty in seconds and your compressor(s) can't fill them up fast enough.

https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/179617_587386557464_1122944_n.jpg

I think I have the same roof basket (Rola Vortex with extension?) and mounted mine directly to the roof rail. I used 8x conduit clamps. It's extremely secure, lower profile, and looks better IMO.

http://i665.photobucket.com/albums/vv19/alexrex20/pathy/DSC08354.jpg
http://i665.photobucket.com/albums/vv19/alexrex20/bachelor run 2011/DSC00116.jpg

Yep, it's the Rola Vortex with extension. I have mine on the Thule loadbars with custom feet and it looks very proportional to the truck. It looked hideous on the factory cross bars.

One last thing, before I whore out your thread: I'd recommend relocating your air quick connect. I have one on the front bumper, and another on the rear mounted to the hitch. Not only does it make it more convenient, but it also prevents any pulling on the connections which are hard mounted into the compressor. It may not be much, but anything to help these compressors last as long as possible...

I've had to warranty my ARB CKMA12 compressor twice already. (Both times the bolt backed out, that attaches the conrod to the crankshaft.) The final replacement went to eBay and now I have a Viair.

Ah ok that's good to know and a definite YES on relocating the air quick connect to the front and rear bumper areas. My expectation for a small air tank is to be able to run the impact air wrench for a few secs to unbolt something that's otherwise difficult, it'll also help speed up inflating tires.

 

[stioc]

So I'm back from our Death Valley expedition. I've posted the generic pics and the write up (including about my coolant boiling over). For now you can read that here http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/100650-Five-SoCal-trucks-in-Death-Valley?p=1315182 and I'll detail more truck specific things later.

 

[txfactor76]

Thanks for the tips. Did you have to remove your fender flares due to the tires rubbing? I'm struggling with the decision on the tire size, I don't want to lose the fender flares or re-gear (the terrain here is anything but flat) though with the 3.5L engine I may be ok there. Honestly, I would love a set of skinny 33s - that's what I want deep down but I may have to go with skinny 32s instead.

I guess I left out a pretty important part. Not only did I have to remove the fender flares for tire clearance, but I also had to rework the fender itself. I had to "fold" inward the lower part of the fender, towards the doors. You can kinda make it out in the pic, but I gained about 1in of clearance with this ghetto mod.

Let me add though, that another guy with the same lift as me (AC coils) did not remove his flares nor hammer on the fenders and he fit 285/75-16s just fine. My front end sits pretty low though because of the bumper and winch, so maybe that's why I have more clearance issues.

Yep, it's the Rola Vortex with extension. I have mine on the Thule loadbars with custom feet and it looks very proportional to the truck. It looked hideous on the factory cross bars.

Ya, I took a second look at your setup after I already posted, and realized you have it on aftermarket bars. Yours looks pretty good; yes it looked hideous on the factory bars. lol

 

[stioc]

So have you noticed any ill-effects from going up to the 33s? Would you recommend them over 32s say 235/85/16 or a 265/75/16? Is the IFS stout enough to handle heavier tires in E-load rating? Many times I've slammed the front end of the truck into various largish dips that I couldn't see from 10 feet away and had no way of avoiding them I just wonder if the big wheels would over stress the suspension/balljoint/hubs/strut tower etc. I've seen a few people running 33s and even 35s but I believe SilvaPathy, Fleury and you are probably the only guys running 33s on non SFD trucks that see trail duty.