My *slow going* M416 camping trailer build.

Bedwell

Observer
I enjoyed reading your trailer build, and have gotten a few ideas for mine!

-Harbor Freight Box
-Spare Tire Mount and Trasharoo
-Side Steps / Rockers

Does the spare tire rattle or move at all?
 

jeepfreak81

Adventurer
I enjoyed reading your trailer build, and have gotten a few ideas for mine!

-Harbor Freight Box
-Spare Tire Mount and Trasharoo
-Side Steps / Rockers

Does the spare tire rattle or move at all?

If you grab it you can make it move, but I have never heard it rattle. The Trasharoo has been very handy.
 

jeepfreak81

Adventurer
So far just under 4k with the tent and awning. I plan to add actuators in the next month or so, and thinking of a tongue extension.

I'm very much not a fan of the awning right now. I was under the impression like the tent it could be left on all the time. Mine the case constantly fills with water, meaning even in summer I need to tarp the trailer or make room in my storage unit. The zipper on my annex is coming apart too.
 

DonBeasley

Adventurer
I am very interested in the actuators. As you may recall I cut the annex to make it fit as I did not want to have to manually lift the RTT. If you come up with an easy and cost effective actuator system, you may become a god in the 416 world! I have seen a few but most have too many moving parts.
 

jeepfreak81

Adventurer
I am very interested in the actuators. As you may recall I cut the annex to make it fit as I did not want to have to manually lift the RTT. If you come up with an easy and cost effective actuator system, you may become a god in the 416 world! I have seen a few but most have too many moving parts.

Had I designed the trailer for them I could have gotten away with only two which would put the cost under $200. Sadly I had to order 4 of them so it isn't real cost effective. I will gain space from not hauling around the scissor jack and trying to figure out where to store it, I won't have to haul the drill and charger around, and the top will go up easier, and on its own while I set up other parts of camp, so in the long run I feel it's worth it.
 

jeepfreak81

Adventurer
Which actuators did you go with? Can you post a link?

Linear_Actuator_24.JPG

The linear actuators are from Firgelli Automations. They are rated at 200# and have 24" of stroke. This will lower my platform about 3" from the photos, but I think overall that will be a good thing.

I should get them Wednesday, and hopefully will have them mounted and wired next week.

http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_info.php?cPath=90&products_id=5
The Brackets
http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_info.php?cPath=90&products_id=54

I also ordered their switch. These are the same ones another member ordered, they look slow, but I'm fine with that.
 

3d fj

Observer
Awesome build thread. I really can't believe i didn't read this thread earlier. I would like to build a four post tent rack like yours but I'm waiting to see how my tent and annex will sit with the spring over and 35's. I too have a CVT. I have the mt. rainier. I didn't see it in your thread, perhaps it was because i was reading it late last night, but do you have any upclose pictures of where the tent rack is welded at the bottom? I think the biggest difficulty in fabricating this, for me at least, would be making sure the posts are all straight and parallel with each other as well as having the same length.


EDIT:

I just looked at the link you posted above.... How will you mount the actuators... will you be using the existing vertical pieces and just attach the actuator to that or will you be using the actuator in place of the vertical pieces? I would think you would just attach it to what you have already right? this way, you'd be able to put the locking pin in place.
 

jeepfreak81

Adventurer
Awesome build thread. I really can't believe i didn't read this thread earlier. I would like to build a four post tent rack like yours but I'm waiting to see how my tent and annex will sit with the spring over and 35's. I too have a CVT. I have the mt. rainier. I didn't see it in your thread, perhaps it was because i was reading it late last night, but do you have any upclose pictures of where the tent rack is welded at the bottom? I think the biggest difficulty in fabricating this, for me at least, would be making sure the posts are all straight and parallel with each other as well as having the same length.


EDIT:

I just looked at the link you posted above.... How will you mount the actuators... will you be using the existing vertical pieces and just attach the actuator to that or will you be using the actuator in place of the vertical pieces? I would think you would just attach it to what you have already right? this way, you'd be able to put the locking pin in place.

Exactly, I will place the actuators along side, they are aluminum and I don't know that they would be rigid enough on their own. They seem like they are going to be perfect, though I will likely need to make dust covers for them I think. I am worried about the rating, as they are not dust proof and liquid proof.

They just arrived, here are some pictures.

Here are the close ups you asked for:





And the actuators, they are smaller than I expected.





and a video of one of the actuators extending.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEugIpEFRmM
 
Last edited:

3d fj

Observer
Those pics are perfect. That is how i envisioned the verticals to be but here's something i was concerned with. Do you feel that there is too much stress on the walls of the tub? I was looking at it, and that sheet metal of the tub isn't the thickest. I guess though, the worse that could happen is bending/flexing of the wall where it's welded. Is there a trick to how you made sure that the verticals were straight and parallel to each other?
 

jeepfreak81

Adventurer
Those pics are perfect. That is how i envisioned the verticals to be but here's something i was concerned with. Do you feel that there is too much stress on the walls of the tub? I was looking at it, and that sheet metal of the tub isn't the thickest. I guess though, the worse that could happen is bending/flexing of the wall where it's welded. Is there a trick to how you made sure that the verticals were straight and parallel to each other?

I'm sure it's fine, we used the trailer a fair amount in the short remainder of the season last year and nothing wobbles or moves. It is extremely stable.

As far as the verticals, it was a lot of measuring, and re-measuring, no real tricks I guess.

Here are some pictures and video from today, it is not permanently wired but it works very well!

zubezuve.jpg


uva3yqaz.jpg


aju5yqet.jpg


e9ajaru2.jpg


And video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M4LqAlqALbs&feature=youtube_gdata_player

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NSjPb7r2sVc&feature=youtube_gdata_player
 

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