Need ideas to carry motorcycle and bikes at speed. Off-road capable.

jagarcia89

Active member
To that question. I used 5x4.5 to 5x5 Wheel Adapters to install the factory JT/JL wheels on my enclosed trailer. As I was using factory wheels I needed to add a spacer (5x5 1.0") on each side to get the clearance due to the factory offset (aftermarket wheels might not have needed them), Normally I am not a fan of adapters and/or spacers, but the load is so light on the trailer (RS1), not a concern to me in this use case.

That sounds like what I need to do. Ideally I’d convert it to the same wheel and tire pattern as my truck so I could carry one spare. What trailer do you have?


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IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
I avoid adaptors if I can get away with it.

For the cost of hubs, its an easy sell for me to simply swap hubs over to the desired lug pattern.
If buying used, its advised you do the bearings anyhow.
And even more.... if buying used and you want to add brakes.... again, simple sell.
The parts are not expensive and the conversion is quite easy.
 

mog

Kodiak Buckaroo
That sounds like what I need to do. Ideally I’d convert it to the same wheel and tire pattern as my truck so I could carry one spare. What trailer do you have?


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Mine is a Haulmark 12x6 enclosed. 5x4.5 seems to be a real standard on the smaller trailers (of course confirm to be sure).
And it looks like they even make an adapter from 5x4.5 to TRX's 6x139.7 (6x5.5).
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I don't know if the TRXs are the same, but everyone 'upgrades' JL/JT wheels, so the stock wheels are super cheap. I got 'Launch Edition' wheels for $50 per wheel (Three, 2 for the trailer and 1 for my spare,).

FYI, I had looked into swapping hubs, but then got into the issue of JT/JL using not only a less then standard lug stud size, so not a press in new studs to get the hubs to work, but also a deep taper on the lug nuts so not matching. Maybe not an issue with the Rams (although they share a 'parent company').


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PLUS 'normal' trailer wheels and your TRX wheels are going to have a crazy difference in offsets, so unless you build an axle planning on that (certainly due-able), you are going to run into interference with the side of the trailer regardless if it is enclosed or open which spacers/adapters cure, For me not worth the hassle of building a new axle and hubs on a <2500 lb trailer which $80 worth of adapters/spacers made work perfectly. 5000 lb + trailer, I do it differently. YMMV

. And don't forget WIDER and higher fenders with the TRX wheels/tires. I just widened my existing fenders and remounted them higher
 
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Ozarker

Well-known member
I don't come on here much, but you seem to post a lot of confrontational nonsense.
You don't have to run trailer tires on every trailer. Don't have a pic of my trailer handy, but I run BFG KO2 in this size. Would work perfect in the OP's search for a motorcycle trailer.

LT235/75R15/C. Speed Rating S or 112 mph, Max Load 1985 lbs.​

Good for you, glad to hear that.

You do understand that confrontation takes two, you could have just let my common sense post pass, but noooooo, you had to make something out of it and post your rude reply and be pissy about pulling a trailer over 80 mph, as if that's a real smart thing to do.

You seem to post stupid dangerous stuff, hopefully you'll stayaway longer.

Don't bother with a pic of your trailer just for your argument, I wouldn't be impressed.

Nothing works perfectly!
 

mog

Kodiak Buckaroo
No relation to seller/trailer/etc, but you might take a look at this Expo ad, for ideas on a 'big-tire', 'off-road', and dare I say [trigger-alert] 'high-speed' :oops: trailer.


Hey, but it is even in Cali 😉
 

Ozarker

Well-known member
That’s the difference between a small trailer not meant for speed and one that is. My tandem axle hauler goes 80 no problem. As do other larger trailers. But the common small 4x8 utility trailers one 13” tires I wouldn’t.

I guess the exact speed isn’t as important as the fact I don’t want a trailer that limits me to 55 on the interstate. Plenty of trailers can be towed at highway speeds, that’s what I am looking for.
Thank you for your explanation. I have 5 trailers, 2 are for my motorcycle, roughly about 3x4/5 foot, 13 inch wheels, I could tow them at 80, I don't. At times, they have both hit 70 but 65 is a sweet spot. 2 other trailers are dual axel boat trailers, 16 and 24 footers, they have gone a bit over 70 but again, the sweet spot is around 65. My 4x8 is a single axel on 15 inch truck tires. I keep it under 70 mph, generally between 60 to 65. My travel trailer is a dual axel, it actually likes 70 mph. The 13 inch wheels run trailer tires, the 24 ft. and the TT run truck tires, the 15 ft. runs LT tires.

What's all that mean? Not much really.

Not all states restrict trailer speeds, when they do, the speed limits apply to trailers seem to be set by weight limits, from what I've seen. Tractor trailer rigs may have different limits and are designed for higher speeds than your utility/camper type. A dual or triple axel 34' travel trailer will be subject to the speed limits just like a 4x8 utility trailer, the fact that it might track well at 85 mph isn't the issue, it's illegal.

I'd say it may not matter how you design a small motorcycle trailer, single or even an unnecessary dual axel, you will be subject to the speed limit laws set for smaller trailers. Best is just comply and make life easier.

My 4x8, I'm sure could cruise at 85 mph, but I wouldn't do that, a tire blowout can happen due to several reasons, just because my tires are rated for that speed doesn't mean they can't blow out. I don't know anyone running "run flat" tires on a trailer, but I doubt a cop would care.
I'm saying, you're not going to "design" a go fast motorcycle trailer that will be be allowed legally to go faster than any other run of the mill stock trailer of it's size. No special width, length, height, wheel/tire size or axel rating will exempt you from speed limit requirements.


images

Yesterday, on I-44, on the way back from Ft. Wood, some icehole in a pickup pulling a dual axel flatbed about 20 feet long pulled on to the interstate from the ramp doing about 70 and whipped his trailer in the right lane, a tractor trailer had to swerve to let him in. I had to hit the breaks. He took off doing 80+. Later, I caught up with him, three tractor trailers had boxed him in running about 72. He slowed down to try and get away from them and they all slowed down. When traffic backed up in the passing lane it's like everyone knew what was going on, the tractor pulled ahead and pulled over, people passed, then that lead truck pulled back in the passing lane letting the second tractor pull up. The drivers had to be talking to each other, they moved like an orchestrated dance. After about 15 miles they cut him lose and he behaved himself.

Not directed at the OP, but;
The purpose of posting about that idiot is to say, just because you can drive 85 miles an hour doesn't mean you should, regardless of how entitled you might think you are, or how bad azz you think you are, others have to drive out there with you.
 
Good for you, glad to hear that.

You do understand that confrontation takes two, you could have just let my common sense post pass, but noooooo, you had to make something out of it and post your rude reply and be pissy about pulling a trailer over 80 mph, as if that's a real smart thing to do.

You seem to post stupid dangerous stuff, hopefully you'll stayaway longer.

Don't bother with a pic of your trailer just for your argument, I wouldn't be impressed.

Nothing works perfectly!
What have I posted that was stupid or dangerous, I will wait why you try to create something.

Never once in my post did I say that I pull a trailer over 80, but my tires are good for it.

Pro tip, never make a post mentioning common sense when you clearly lack the quality.
 

jagarcia89

Active member
No relation to seller/trailer/etc, but you might take a look at this Expo ad, for ideas on a 'big-tire', 'off-road', and dare I say [trigger-alert] 'high-speed' :oops: trailer.


Hey, but it is even in Cali 😉
I've actually been messaging this guy. Unfortunately, I recently moved to MI and that trailer is more than I planned on spending. But we may be able to work out some trade for my 20ft enclosed. But there's still the challenge of 2,250 miles and me either paying 4x what I had planned to pay for this trailer or him going from selling a trailer and getting cash to having to pay the 12.5k in difference.
 

Ozarker

Well-known member
I've actually been messaging this guy. Unfortunately, I recently moved to MI and that trailer is more than I planned on spending. But we may be able to work out some trade for my 20ft enclosed. But there's still the challenge of 2,250 miles and me either paying 4x what I had planned to pay for this trailer or him going from selling a trailer and getting cash to having to pay the 12.5k in difference.
Sounds like you could end up with a toy hauler.

Just FYI, I picked up a 16' dual axel enclosed V nose for $1,500 and did nothing to it, 3 years later sold it for $3500, so while that usually isn't the case, you'll probably get your money back if you pick up a nice trailer.
 

jagarcia89

Active member
Sounds like you could end up with a toy hauler.

Just FYI, I picked up a 16' dual axel enclosed V nose for $1,500 and did nothing to it, 3 years later sold it for $3500, so while that usually isn't the case, you'll probably get your money back if you pick up a nice trailer.
My intent was to build out my 20ft enclosed to be a bit of a toy hauler camper for use at MI campgrounds, but I just don't have the time and I have a perfectly good Ovrlnd camper on my TRX. So I figured I could downsize and carry the motorcycle and keep camping out of the truck for now.
 

Howard70

Adventurer
I’ve owned several Aluma trailers which I like for their light weight and corrosion resistance. I’ve bought all of them new, and found the company (via a good distributor) very helpful in moderate customization (larger wheels/tires, different axles, etc.). They have a number of “off the shelf” motorcycle carrying suitable trailers which you might be able to spec with 15” wheels and trailer brakes.

If I was going to tow to match surrounding traffic’s speed on public highways I’d definitely want trailer brakes with a well-tuned brake controller.

It’s probably been mentioned above, but how you distribute weight in whatever trailer you get may have the most influence on stability at different speeds. Robert Pepper has several great videos on trailer stability / load distribution / number of axles / speed. You might take a look at some of those.

Finally, you might also consider looking into the fine print of your vehicle insurance to see if there are any exclusions or conditions relevant to towing, weight, and speed. That could prevent a future disappointment in the event of an accident.

Howard
 

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