Need the solar/power pros to weigh in

luthj

Engineer In Residence
What specific reasons do you have for a sealed battery? I find that unless you perform a long equalize charge, the odor from a flooded battery is not noticeable.
 

TantoTrailers

Well-known member
The battery is in my camper cabin, I dont want to ever have any concern about gas regardless of loads or otherwise. I never want to worry about a leak or adding fluids.
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
A plastic tub or box solves the leak issue. You would need to top the water up very 30-90 days or so. There is no explosion risk in your setup, but there would be some odor during an equalize cycle. Though you could just disable that feature on your charger if it has it.

You would get a lot better value with a flooded battery(s). The boilerplate suggestion is a pair of deka/duracell GC2 (6V) batteries. 220AH for less than 200$, and 10x the value of your small 100Ah AGM.

If you are DIY savvy, a diy 50AH prismatic lithium pack could be build for about 300$ or so. Or you could try one of the direct from china 50AH drop-ins. A 50AH lithium battery would easily replace a 100Ah lead battery.
 

TantoTrailers

Well-known member
I’m afraid of lithium. Plain and simple. No room for tray or box, literally. Absolutely want nothing to do with maintaining the battery besides charging correctly now that I have been schooled extensively (and much appreciated).
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
your not dismissed from school yet, sit back down.. Fear can be cured with knowledge, and it seems you still have some unreasonable fears..

do you never do any maintenance to your trailer? never winterize it, never check tires, never check bearings? whats adding a little water every once and a blue moon gotta yah so bent up for? I doubt you have any loads or the supporting wiring hooked up to your battery to concern your self about gas or otherwise.. 90 days thing is like just checking it, honestly I only ever checked at end of season and at start of season and very rarely needed to add water because at these loads it dont consume much if any.

If your size constrained, go check out Trojan FLA's.. see if they have any in the size format you require, not as good price wise as GC2's but its a premium battery vs renology's cheap agm.
 
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luthj

Engineer In Residence
Lots of folks are afraid of lithium batteries because they have seen videos of LiPo or LCo lithium packs catching on fire when abused. LFP/ LiFePO4 are not that way, and are safe, even if badly abused. In fact they aren't likely to catch fire, even if you drive a nail through them.

Obviously another AGM will last longer than before now that you are getting your charging worked out. That is a legitimate approach.

Checking the water every 100 cycles or so is not hard. With light usage you would only need to add some 1-2x a year. I would at least explore what options you have before you throw another battery in.
 
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shade

Well-known member
If access is a concern for adding water, simple tubing kits are available that replace the cell caps, so it's easy to top them off.
 

TantoTrailers

Well-known member
I maintain my trailer daily haha so trust me the topping off or whatever wouldn’t be an issue. I mounted the IP67 directly over the battery which the charger manual said not to do with a lead acid battery which I assumed was due to gassing. I don’t want to spend much more than $200...I’ll consider an upgrade to $300 but the space I’m working with is the exact size of the Renorgy I have. If I can get away with Lithium at that point then let’s do this but what else will I need in my kit? Will I still be able to use my DC/DC converter or is that out the window? Can the Renogy Rover charge Li? I don’t have the new black model. So many questions!
 
If the pros wouldnt mind weighing in as I learn my way to a sloar setup on my 2017 AT Bobcat pop up.

Equipment to power:
1) propane heater with blower fan
2) 4xLED lights, rarely use more than one at a time, never for very long.
3) Fantastic fan, rarely use for more than 5min at a time.
4) USB charging ports, used for iphone, bluetooth speaker, and ipad recharging.

If someone would be so kind to tell me how right or how terribly wrong my brainstorm is for equipment, Id appreciate it.

-I think my setup should include a 200w panel (or 2@100w?)
-unless winter takes until february to start again, and i get a good weather window to fit panels on the roof, I will start freestanding and then mount on roof later after snow season.
-adding the Victron monitor suggested by dreadlocks
-the battery is still up for debate, I started in with an odyssey pc680, and now that ive purchased not the right battery, im wondering if paralleling in a second one is worth it, or if I should cut my losses and get a new deep cycle.
-keeping a noco at the house to pre charge

Use is usually a weekend to 5 day endeavor, rarely more. im usually where there is abundant sun, often reflected by snow.

I know i need to figure out what draws how much, but my power needs are pretty low without a fridge and such.
 

shade

Well-known member
If the pros wouldnt mind weighing in as I learn my way to a sloar setup on my 2017 AT Bobcat pop up.

Equipment to power:
1) propane heater with blower fan
2) 4xLED lights, rarely use more than one at a time, never for very long.
3) Fantastic fan, rarely use for more than 5min at a time.
4) USB charging ports, used for iphone, bluetooth speaker, and ipad recharging.

If someone would be so kind to tell me how right or how terribly wrong my brainstorm is for equipment, Id appreciate it.

-I think my setup should include a 200w panel (or 2@100w?)
-unless winter takes until february to start again, and i get a good weather window to fit panels on the roof, I will start freestanding and then mount on roof later after snow season.
-adding the Victron monitor suggested by dreadlocks
-the battery is still up for debate, I started in with an odyssey pc680, and now that ive purchased not the right battery, im wondering if paralleling in a second one is worth it, or if I should cut my losses and get a new deep cycle.
-keeping a noco at the house to pre charge

Use is usually a weekend to 5 day endeavor, rarely more. im usually where there is abundant sun, often reflected by snow.

I know i need to figure out what draws how much, but my power needs are pretty low without a fridge and such.
I'm not a pro, however:

If you decide to use a Victron meter, one of their smart solar charge controllers would be a good fit.

If you have the roof space, a 300W residential panel would be a good choice since you're already looking at 200W. You may find that a 300W panel provides enough power that you can forego a freestanding panel.

Make sure your NOCO charger has enough output to be a good fit for whatever battery capacity and chemistry you choose.

Take your time and build whatever it is that you decide will work best for you.
 
Excellent, thanks for the advice, im going to measure out my space to see what i can accommodate. I have a fantastic fan in the rear third and a vent in the front, so i might be limited in that capacity.
 

TantoTrailers

Well-known member
I don’t want to spend much more than $200...I’ll consider an upgrade to $300 but the space I’m working with is the exact size of the Renorgy I have. If I can get away with Lithium at that point then let’s do this but what else will I need in my kit? Will I still be able to use my DC/DC converter or is that out the window? Can the Renogy Rover charge Li? I don’t have the new black model.

Bumping my question, if I were to go away from LA and go down the Li route, would I need to swap any other equipment than the battery or would everything that I already have work with the new tech? IF NOT --- Sealed it is, any recommendations on the best bang for the buck (AMG? GEL?)?
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
Gels are very finicky, I do not recommend. You may consider a sealed flooded battery. These have a vent valve, and sometimes a single fill port. They are cheaper than agm, and sometimes can have the water topped up. The valve regulated part means they need less water and don't produce odor when charging.

Lithium batteries don't like float charging. You need to adjust your solar controllers float voltage down to about 13.2V (maybe less). Charge voltages are about the same as lead, with anything from 13.9-14.6V being acceptable. Though lower is better for longevity.

Other than that, a drop-in lithium battery is pretty well self maintaining. Note that you will not be able to charge the battery below freezing.

Going with a DIY build pack is a lot more work, as you need to select a BMS and wire it up. There are some cheaper direct-from-china options that user @hour used in his builds, which look to be pretty straightforward.
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Bumping my question, if I were to go away from LA and go down the Li route, would I need to swap any other equipment than the battery or would everything that I already have work with the new tech? IF NOT --- Sealed it is, any recommendations on the best bang for the buck (AMG? GEL?)?
The Renology Rover has a profile for lithium so you should be fine. The Rover I think does handle charging gel so make sure to use the right profile, the various types must use the correct one (e.g. don't use gel for AGM or vice versa).
 
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