No dissassemble Number 5!!

[Toasty]

Not trying to be some kind of jerk but why not regear the diffs to be in the power band more? 6g74 loves 4.90 gears, or get nutty and buy the 5.29's on 4x4wire have the ring gear bolt holes machined to take the 9.5" diff ring bolts and have 5.29's.

 

[eengler2]

that makes absolutely no sense in terms of daily driven longevity. The need to constantly fill up would defeat the purpose of the build. This needs to be a turn key, well executed build with readily available replacement parts. Something my girl could get behind the wheel of and not feel like she's going to destroy it if she pushes the skinny pedal.

Then just rebuild the engine and be done with it if reliability and ease of use is number one concern.

Sounds like you are trying to do forced induction with minimal investment with parts you already have. If you do go that route, make sure you get aftermarket forged rods and pistons; otherwise, your reliability requirement is thrown out the window IMO. Based on my recent experience, I wouldn't be comfortable loading up the engine (trails, towing, bigger tires, etc) and adding boost to a stock bottom end. Others gave me that same advice and I didn't listen....

 

[SoCalMonty]

A 3.8 6G75 crank fits, with a little block clearancing. Use 6g74 rods and aftermarket pistons with the modified pin height. Stock 93mm pistons get you 3.7l or you can bore for more. Be careful with too much bore. The 3.8s have different heads. With the 6g74s you get really close to the coolant ports of the heads when you go bigger.

Pampena Motorsports can hook you up with the pistons. They are usually 8:1 for turbo builds but they are custom anyway so I'm sure 10 or 11:1 wouldn't be a problem to order.

A lot of us do 6g74 swaps in 3000GTs. The 3N heads (from FWD 6g74s or 6G72s) are a little better than the Montero heads (3T I believe). Turbo heads would be even better.

**If you want more NA pulling power on pump gas, 6g75 crank stroker is your best option for anything appreciable.**

If you plan to turbo or supercharge, upgrade the rods. I just found out they don't take 500awtq in my 3000...oops 400tq is probably a safer limit. With pump gas you have to worry about the stock cast pistons if you have any detonation. I was running e85, so no issues with pistons at 450awhp/500awtq.

Well, I don't think he has the aftermarket parts in his budget (under $2k). I want to say that with a low boost application, if it's managed precisely, he won't need it. But then I keep thinking...10.5:1 + turbo. If it gets driven hard, which it probably will at some point, the Achille's Heel might be exposed. That, combined with this, has me worried...

I guess it all depends on what resources you have available to you.

I have a full shop that was built for building road course racing cars, Bridgeport mill, mig welding equipment, a surplus of 6G72TT parts and enough scrap tubing to build just about any exhaust/ic set up.

I would run a 6G72TT front manifold on the passenger side, stock manifold on the driverside, cross over tube with flex underneath to passengerside, collector for a t3 flange, mount internal gated turbo, v-band outlet to 2.5 downpipe to 3 inch exhaust...
oil cooled 50 trim turbo, dsm 450cc injectors, walbro 255 pump, vr4 injector resistor pack, vr4 fuel pressure ref, vr4 ecu on stock montero harness (still verifying pin outs but 3kgt guys are using reflashable montero ecu's in their 3k's)
then a simple SAFC and wideband for tuning.

Most of the above, i just have laying around, looking for an excuse to be put to use... I have a budget of $1860 for this project and I intend to come in well under budget, i'll keep up with this thread as I go.

btw, 6G72 will bolt in, but the coolant routing and intake manifold has to be messed with. not sure the driverside turbo would clear the brake master and booster either.

...that's great that you have the fueling covered - but what about ignition timing? That VR4 ECU is going to think it's driving a 3.0L, 8:1 engine. If you're slapping that ECU into the 10.5:1 newly-turbocharged engine, without addressing the ignition curves on that ECU - you may run into some issues, and at the very least, it won't be anywhere close to optimized for that build. It might "run," but it will never run like it should, or possibly could. It will never see it's fullest potential without the ignition timing addressed.

I just think too many corners are going to be cut to stay within an $1800 budget...especially when you consider an engine rebuild kit has to come out of that too since you need, at the very least, a bottom end rebuild, and the top end I would imagine will be rebuilt at the same time.

I spent $300 on nothing but AN fittings and hoses on my current low-budget build for the Volvo. And another $200 in nothing but fluids. That's more than 25% of your total budget without touching hard parts or fabrication...know what I mean?

Not trying to be some kind of jerk but why not regear the diffs to be in the power band more? 6g74 loves 4.90 gears, or get nutty and buy the 5.29's on 4x4wire have the ring gear bolt holes machined to take the 9.5" diff ring bolts and have 5.29's.

I really don't want to go off on another tangent, BUT...(lol)...

This post got me thinking. What about a 1-2 combo of the 6g75 3.8L, and deeper gears? That thing would have PLENTY of grunt, and you could probably source the engine and wiring within your budget? I dunno, I just pictured an older Montero with late-model running gear and thought it might be cool. I think the stock TQ was 260? That with the 4.90 or 5.29's would be pretty decent. Not a turbo, though, I know. Haha.

So...OK...you seem to have your mind made up. I've already mentioned, I think going another route would be simpler, cheaper, and be more "complete" in the end. But, it's your truck!

So...moving on...here are a couple pics to give you an idea of what to do with the exhaust plumbing. It's gonna be a tight fit, and the heat in that engine bay is going to have to be addressed!





Here's what you would ideally want to be running...
http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItemBundle.asp?idProduct=28538
http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=27823

Not necessary for a low-RPM, low-boost and well-managed setup. But, with just a rudimentary SAFC on top of the 10.5:1 turbo setup, it's not going to be well-managed, so you're gonna have to be careful with it and keep the boost LOW and the intake charge COOL.

 

[IncorpoRatedX]

Where are you guys getting 10.5:1?

The GDI engines were 10.4:1, these are 10:1, please correct me if im wrong and show me the source to the info because everything on the web indicates 10:1.

That being said, there's a TT 13G stealth RT sitting in my garage with the 6G72 NA 10:1 engine in place of it's original turbo motor, its held up great...

If you datalog and throw fuel at the engine until it's getting proper timing advance, there's nothing to worry about. obviously the stock ecu isnt going to do the job because it's expecting lower compression and lower fuel consumption. throw the SAFC in and start at +10% across the table, work up from there watching timing retard/advance and AF ratios...

Thanks for the pictures but the stuff you just posted above is SOHC FWD stuff and not exactly relevant...

 

[IncorpoRatedX]

Where are you guys getting 10.5:1?

The GDI engines were 10.4:1, these are 10:1, please correct me if im wrong and show me the source to the info because everything on the web indicates 10:1.

No one?

Picked up a laser cut flange for the passenger side exhaust last night, going to build the collector and turbo mount off that header as well as the inlet for the cross over, makes more sense to me and will involve less parts and pieces. pretty much settled up on a 50 trim with v-band.

 

[SoCalMonty]

It was a link I had found; actually, though, I found 3 different CR's listed, and IIRC, I only looked up 94-96 SR's.

It should be 9.5:1, unless it did actually change which I highly doubt...per Mitsu's manual (isn't that strange? Everyone says 10:1...I'm reading my owner's manual right now and it says 9.5...)

Very much looking forward to seeing a V6 Turbo Montero!

 

[IncorpoRatedX]

picking up some 17x10's this weekend to put the 37's I have on it.

 

[SoCalMonty]

picking up some 17x10's this weekend to put the 37's I have on it.

Damn. Is is safe to assume you can't turn full lock with 37's? What width are you going with?

 

[IncorpoRatedX]

Damn. Is is safe to assume you can't turn full lock with 37's? What width are you going with?

17x10, currently on my daily driver i have 15x10 with 35's, stock suspension, mild trim, i can turn full lock right now, we'll see

 

[off-roader]

17x10, currently on my daily driver i have 15x10 with 35's, stock suspension, mild trim, i can turn full lock right now, we'll see

Carlos AKA Cap510 (on here on on the 'wire) is running 37's and can turn full lock. here's an animated gif of him on the trail...

 

[russya]

You're over thinking what needs to be done to make enough power for decent hauling/towing. The route I'm going is a remote mount turbo for around 300hp but with a turbo sized small enough to spool up low in the revs, around 2000 rpms or so.

Stock 3si injectors are plenty big for that amount of power. So for fueling you need those, the resistor pack, rrafpr, and a higher flowing pump(pick your poison). I'm going to be using a maft with a 3" gm sensor since I need it to be blow thru. It's way too much trouble to route the air through the stock sensor back to turbo and back to the front. The maft will allow for injector scaling and a small amount of fuel control.
My hope is that it will provide enough for the low boost numbers I'm looking at (4-5 psi). As long as A/F ratios are good and there isn't any knock then that should be it.

The advantage to this route is its easily reversible and the costs are pretty low. Turbo wise you don't need anything bigger than a small t3 or if you want to keep it all Mitsubishi a small 16g is plenty. The charge cools a bit in the long piping from the turbo to the motor so you can size the intercooler fairly small just not too restrictive.

So it is easily done for under $1000 if you get the turbo second hand and can fab the piping by yourself. If not, a muffler shop should be able to do it for pretty cheap. I've done a few remote mounts back when ststurbo.com first started(a friend of mine was their fabricator and I helped him out) and they work a lot better than I thought they would, I think they're perfect for this type of modest horsepower gain application. And you don't have to relocate anything, just remove the stock air box and piping and that frees up a lot of room in the engine bay for pipe routing.

A hell of a first post been lurking awhile. Bought my 2.5 Monty a year ago and have been waiting to start modding it for this summer. Thought I'd finally speak up and offer some info since I've gotten plenty from reading all you guys' posts over the last year.

 

[IncorpoRatedX]

You're right, I may be over doing it with the 3kgt ecu, since the montero tunes timing and fuel off all the same sensors, im just thinking back to the NA 4G63 to turbo 4G63 days, where the ecu didn't compensate the same. A GM maf-t would simplify routing significantly, so in exchange for the safc i could MAF-T and try it on stock ECU, worse that happens is the timing is too much and... hmm, (typing while thinking), what about the injector dwell time, wonder if that's different between NA high impedance and turbo low impedance, time to ring up my brother and have a chat.

Thanks for adding to this topic russya

 

[russya]

Yeah, I've done things both ways. I'm a former gvr4 guy, use to burn chips for keydiver on their forum, for that car I did a gt35 with an air/water intercooler and water/meth injection and eventually a standalone. I don't think the tuning will be much of an issue with just 4-5 psi in this application. I'm going to do a quick and dirty fab of mine and just see if I need to control timing before going to the trouble of making sure I can.

One thing I left off of that last post for anyone wanting to remote mount the turbo, you also need an electric oil pump for the oil return. Blow off is nice but not required if you want to go super cheap.

 

[IncorpoRatedX]

Yeah, I've done things both ways. I'm a former gvr4 guy, use to burn chips for keydiver on their forum, for that car I did a gt35 with an air/water intercooler and water/meth injection and eventually a standalone. I don't think the tuning will be much of an issue with just 4-5 psi in this application. I'm going to do a quick and dirty fab of mine and just see if I need to control timing before going to the trouble of making sure I can.

One thing I left off of that last post for anyone wanting to remote mount the turbo, you also need an electric oil pump for the oil return. Blow off is nice but not required if you want to go super cheap.

I too am a former vr4 guy, only former because i recently sold my 4th vr4 with 260,000 miles to the VP of AMS. currently driving a 73 galant wagon with a 4G63 in it. You should start a build thread for your rig!

I actually posted about this build over on the gvr4 forums and there's a couple of people over there that spoke up saying they did similar builds in 3S platform with great results. One guy said the last stock 10:1 NA 6G72 bottom end with TT conversion he did is still running around 10 years later...

 

[IncorpoRatedX]

17x10 wheels I got today, with alright condition 32's, they're the same offset as my 15x10's and sit right at the edge of the flares.