OBI Dweller Review and Discussion

bjammin101

New member
We didnt ever put the top down because we used the bunk as another shelf for dog stuff and bags of junk. Also, when we had the extra AC inside the trailer, we vented it out the canvas window so we wouldnt have been able to put it down anyways. I think next time during the day we will try it though to see how much it helps.

I had also thought about at one point buying the foam insulation boards and cutting them to size to place over the canvas areas. Never got around to it because we took the extra AC instead.

Has anyone had any issues with their roof and the seems leaking? I elected no insurance coverage for the roof before we picked up the trailer because I assumed the roof wasnt built like other campers but after seeing the top, maybe it would be a good idea to change this?
 

gendlert

Well-known member
Has anyone had any issues with their roof and the seems leaking? I elected no insurance coverage for the roof before we picked up the trailer because I assumed the roof wasnt built like other campers but after seeing the top, maybe it would be a good idea to change this?
No seam leaks after two years and about 80 nights in the trailer.
 

gendlert

Well-known member
pretty decent price for $21k? if anyone's interested
Wow. You could gut the electronics completely and rebuild it using Battleborn, Victron, and Zamp head to toe, and head to a machine shop to work in an airbag solution, and still come out well under $40k...:unsure:
 

tjtx

Member
Instead of the EG4 batteries i cheaped out and bought Weize batteries. I got a spare for less than 3x of the EG4s would have cost. We tossed them in this morning and changed the solar and inverter over to 14.4V charging while sweating profusely here in TX. The Weize 100ah LiFePo4 fits perfectly in my enclosures and are about 1/2 the weight of the AGMs.

IMG_1384.jpeg
 

tjtx

Member
Hello all,

I would like to write my experience (first experience with any camper) with the Dweller 15 as a new owner from Houston Texas. My wife and I, plus 3 dogs, drove to Arizona to purchase our D15 because it was about $10k less than what I had been seeing everyone else sell it for on RV Trader and we had already looked at a D15 at a normal RV Dealer. It was also a 2023 model instead of one of the 22's that had been sitting around for a while. We picked up the camper on June 17th in Mesa, AZ and had already booked our first 3 parks to stay at on the way home. However, our first stop was Costco to stock up on some food, etc.

Next stop, Lost Dutchman State Park. Now, the two main reasons to get the camper were for AC and a shower. However, AC cannot keep up with 110 degree direct heat. I think on the peak of our first full day we decided to come inside but it reached around 93 on the inteior and we decided it was time to go drive around and do some shopping back in Mesa until it was getting into the early evening. We also had 3 small dogs with us so we had to be careful with them as well. (We ended up at Home Depot and pushed them around in two shopping carts to stay cool). It was beautiful here and our campsite was great. I would reccomend it if it's not the middle of summer in your D15.

Second Campsite was Bluewater Lake State Park in NM. This was amazing and the elevation gave us great weather. We actually ended up booking an extra night since we had only intended to stay two nights at each stop. On our extended night we had to change sites to somewhere without water or electric connections which ended up being fine because the weather was so great. Our only issue was we didnt know how to use the water out of both tanks. We found out later there was just the knob under the bed that you had to turn.

Last campsite was back in Texas but it was amazingly hot again and we ended up cutting our trip short at that park because of the heat and the dogs being with us. Plus the lake was low and didnt want to try to venture out into it.

The 4th of July we also went to Lake Sommerville State park which was a close drive for us at around 1.5 hours. We had a great time here with the dogs and they enjoyed the lake even though it was a bit low. We also came prepared with an EXTRA 14k BTU AC unit and put it inside with the exhaust hose blowing out one of the top zip down windows. I wish I had taken a picture of this since it was pretty thrown together. It was also hot here but we had partial shade which helped with keeping the camper cool until the sun was directly overhead. Once the sun was overhead the temps started rising, not even the extra AC and the camper AC could keep up. I believe we still saw 85 inside the camper during the peak part of the day. Needless to say, there is a lack of insulation in this trailer and I thought we could manage this a little better. As a side note, we had run the electrical cord for the portable AC out to the electrical hook-ups so we didnt trip the breaker box so we had an electrical cord running out the door the whole time. This did create a very minor gap when the door was shut but not enough to let much air out. The door would still lock completely. Also, the ICECO cooler also has trouble keeping the set temps in hot weather. If we did not have the cooler pulled out for air flow without direct sunlight, it would freeze on one side and warm up on the other. This happened in Arizona and Texas. Typically during travel it wasnt a big issue because I think it was getting enough airflow from moving. (yes we also had the little fan inside the compartment on the entire time as well)

Tow rig: 2020 RAM 1500 4x4 5.7 non E-torq with ORP and Heavy 34.5" Load range E tires
- MPG 10-11 without much wind or with tailwind (65-70 MPH)
- MPG 8-9 with heavy wind in North Texas doing 65 MPH

Lessons from the first 4 stays in the Dweller:
- If in hot weather, make sure you will have shade if you plan to stay cool. On our next trip, I am going to attempt a sun shade with tent poles and rope on the next trip out
- Buy "Misto" fan from Costco. This was a life saver
- I would max out at 70 mph typically because sway would be set off very easily. 65 mph was much more comfortable. I did try multiple things with water in the front tank and taking the rear tires off the back. I learned to use the trailer break controller a lot and that you really dont want to go above 70mph unless you have everything dialed in or you like white knuckling it. I think I will do a shock upgrade in the future at some point
- I did about bend in half the included breaker bar trying to get the lugs off the back to remove the tires. Some were far too tight... I had to wait until we got back to Texas to get it off.
- there is tons of storage in the D15 which was great
- I never got the hot water to work which meant for some shorter showers. Still need to figure out what is wrong there. (kept getting an error on the control panel)
- the bed was great since the dogs sleep in the bed with us and a king is a must
- I had never used a casette toiler before and it was easy to use and nice to be able to throw in the back of the truck and take to the dump station
- Get some "LEVERLOC" suction cup accessories to hang stuff. These things were perfect for hanging towels and putting toiletries in
- Get a mattress protector. Luckily I had thought of this and had one but one of the dogs did end up peeing in the bed and we didnt have an extra change of sheets. This was the last night of staying in the camper which was another nail in the coffin to end that trip.
- buy the "over the tank toilet paper holder" from Amazon as seen on ROA
- get bungee cords to hold the cooler instead of those stupid straps

I probably have more info but that's enough for this post!View attachment 792003View attachment 792004View attachment 792005View attachment 792006View attachment 792007View attachment 792008
Welcome! I’m west of town just outside of 99. Glad to hear things are working well, we’ve got the smaller unit and just my wife and i. Looking forward to a lot of trips this fall.
 

desertmat

New member
I replaced the stock shocks with the Monroe 66440 and removed the rear tires. I placed a generator in the front cargo box and I placed a spare tire in the front. I tested the Dwellar without water and got it to 65 with no sway. I started to notice sway at 70. I need to get a longer hitch receiver. The tire rubs slightly at the extreme turn radius of the truck. I found a receiver that can add 5 inches to the hitch length. I will take a picture of it when it comes in.

Plan is to get a cargo carrier and place the very light items in the back.
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Where did you source that spare tire mount? Did you leave the second spare on the back and still see that improvement?
 

S J

Member
Where did you source that spare tire mount? Did you leave the second spare on the back and still see that improvement?
I spoke with Roa a few weeks ago about the shocks situation along with moving spare up front. He said the only thing needed was to move the spare up front and not to worry about the shocks. The shocks did not make to much of a difference. Who knows. Where did you get that spare tire mount for tongue ?

Thx
 

bjammin101

New member
Welcome! I’m west of town just outside of 99. Glad to hear things are working well, we’ve got the smaller unit and just my wife and i. Looking forward to a lot of trips this fall.
Nice! My wife and I are down in South Richmond. Sounds like we have enough Texas people we could set up something once it get's cooler!

I want to see some of these upgrades everyone is doing to make the Dweller even better.
 

thejeremyg

New member
First, there are definitely a few solar gurus around here, but I'm not one of them. I'm learning as I go, just like you. I had a Zamp panel for my previous trailer, and it was wired backwards from the rest of the universe (I think it's a Zamp thing). I had installed an SAE connection in the wall of the trailer that went straight to the battery terminals, and had to get a little adapter that switched the polarity of the connection from the Zamp. Something to consider, but not guaranteeing that solves the problem.

If your panel has a controller with it, you don't need to run the wiring through your trailer's solar controller. Someone else that had the Anderson plug wired said it isn't going through the solar controller; it's going directly to the battery bus (connection hub for all your battery wiring). So getting that connection to work would be the right solution if you panel has the controller.

As for terminal connections with a battery bank, the bus would be the ideal place to make that connection, not directly to any of the batteries. That direct battery will charge faster than the other two. In a parallel wiring of the batteries, you could theoretically connect to the positive of battery 1 and the negative of battery 3 so the charge is running through the whole bank, but I think that would be less efficient than connecting directly to the bus. Someone else can weigh in on that; I'm not certain. Also, I would use an SAE type plug since you already have the connectors for your Zamp panel. You still probably want the polarity adapter.

Gel, AGM, Flooded, VRLA. My understanding is the settings are within tolerance of one another. You're correct that Li is the standout. But check the Renogy manual to be certain. When I swapped from AGM to Flooded (before I went to Li), I did update my settings, but I don't know that it was really necessary. It's worth the 2 minutes it takes to fix it, though. If VRLA isn't an option, just google what you should use or reach out to Renogy; their customer service is pretty good.

Lastly, as for the inverter in storage, yes, I would turn it off, unless you're keeping the trailer plugged in to charge in storage. Then you'll need to have the MAIN breaker on, and the charger/inverter turned on as well. The battery disconnect by the door is to disconnect the main relay (controls the fridge, Trumi, all lights, all USB/12V outlets, awning, fans, TV/DVD, etc.). The only things that are NOT going through the main relay that run on DC power (to my knowledge) are the propane/CO detector and the toilet flush, but I can't remember for sure about the latter. The inverter/charger is on the other "side" of that disconnect so you can still charge the batteries without the relay having power.

Keep asking questions, and we'll do our best to answer them.

For breakers, I see Main, Inverter, and AC. Are you turning them on/off based on your usage? Is it bad to leave them on all the time then?

Thanks!
 

gendlert

Well-known member
For breakers, I see Main, Inverter, and AC. Are you turning them on/off based on your usage? Is it bad to leave them on all the time then?

Thanks!
I don't know if it's bad or not. Probably not, as they're designed to turn off when there's a problem, but I still only turn them on when I'm using them.
 

desertmat

New member
I spoke with Roa a few weeks ago about the shocks situation along with moving spare up front. He said the only thing needed was to move the spare up front and not to worry about the shocks. The shocks did not make to much of a difference. Who knows. Where did you get that spare tire mount for tongue ?

Thx
I picked up a D15 over the weekend and boy howdy was it uncomfortably squirrelly any speed over 55. Of course, it was completely empty. No mods. I am planning to take both tires off the back and move one up front. Working around them while setting up or tearing down the bed is going to get old. I don’t want to delete the entire bumper like ROA did, but I would like to remove as much as I can from back there. Not quite sure how I’m going to deal with the spare, I don’t have metal fabrication skills.
 

leosgarza

New member
Where did you source that spare tire mount? Did you leave the second spare on the back and still see that improvement?
I got it at Pacific trailers, the mount works as advertised. I ended up removing the mount because The shocks and tire mount did help but I do not like feel of the trailer when I do wheel correction. I think it is just me, cuz there really was no more sway when I finished the upgrade. I am about to put on an equalizer WD system.


https://pacifictrailers.com/products/heavy-duty-spare-trailer-tire-mount-carrier-5-lug

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beebrain

New member
Has anyone posted on attaching the outdoor shower privacy tent? The mounting brackets and bolts were without instructions and I can't wrap by brain around a solution.
The Shower tent for mine came in a box. Inside was the zipped up tent, with an aluminum extrusion attached, and various brackets and bolts. Right angle brackets had already been installed on the side of my Dweller 13, so all I needed was the short bolts and their lock nuts. Put their heads into the channels on the extrusions, then pass them through the brackets on the wall, and install the locknuts. ( Not much clearance there, a ratcheting box end wrench is a big help.) The tent zips open, fabric unrolls, then tubes fold out, supporting the fabric sides. Adjust the height of the fabric with the attached straps and buckles. To keep it from folding itself it has to be staked out somehow. A zipper on the trailer side drops the fabric to give access to the outside shower.
 

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