off road light housing

thethePete

Explorer
I've been in enough pissing contests on here recently, so I'm going to try not to start into another one.

However, for all your shouting, you're not as right as you think you are. Further more, the guy you keep trying to dismiss with your sarcastic "Mr. Expert" is providing a method for factual, numbers-based way to determine if you're getting adequate lighting in areas you need it or not, and you just keep yelling "my eyes don't lie". Remember, the plural of anecdote isn't data.

The fact that you can't seem to acknowledge that your lights hotspot because you moved the focal point of light in the reflector tells me that you don't fully understand what you're trying to claim knowledge on; and I don't care how many kilometers you drive in the dark every year.

Of course lighting to the sides of the road is important when deciding on lights. Do the moose only stand in the middle of the road out on the Rock? Last I checked stuff comes at you from the shoulders of the road, so lighting off to the side is fairly critical. Offroad lighting, when speaking of moving slowly through a trail, can be diffused and light close up. Lighting at speed, so say... on the highway, needs to be more directional and focused. So yes. Scattered, ****ty light works fine offroad on a trail at 40km/h or less, but when you're travelling down a highway at 100km/h or more, beam pattern and where your light goes is a touch more important.

Wanna see something neat? Here's 2 pictures, one with a pair of Hella 500FFs, and then a second picture with 500FFs and 500 with fresnels pointed to flood out the ditches. Notice the distinct lack of hotspotting you had on your garage wall? Know why? 'Cause I'm using 100w halogen bulbs, not HIDs. It also doesn't flood the foreground with a bunch of scattered useless light to kill your pupils. It sends light downrange where the reflector was designed to put it. (Remember what I said earlier about quantity of light vs quality)? Drove across the country with this setup, in the dark, in the winter. Provided more than adequate lighting to prevent eye fatigue and turned on and off with my highbeams no problem, no waiting for them to heat up after, and no blinding oncoming traffic.

(the road crowns slightly up away from the car, so you can see the beam hitting the ground all the way out. On level ground the light casts out to infinity)

265028_10150692307845591_3091872_n.jpg

263173_10150692307885591_125384_n.jpg

The low-beams are also casting some foreground hotspotting as well. I can dig up the picture from the same spot with just the low-beams if required, all shots were done with the same camera settings, but I forget what they were now because this was at least 5 years ago.
 

Robert Bills

Explorer
Gentlemen - the last time I checked the earth is round and the laws of physics are fully in effect at both ends of Canada.

Can't we just agree to disagree on aftermarket lighting?
 

Hilldweller

SE Expedition Society
Gentlemen - the last time I checked the earth is round and the laws of physics are fully in effect at both ends of Canada.

Can't we just agree to disagree on aftermarket lighting?
I work in a training lab for scientific test & measurement equipment using light. So I'm pretty comfortable with the physics aspect...
 

kojackJKU

Autism Family Travellers!
I've been in enough pissing contests on here recently, so I'm going to try not to start into another one.

However, for all your shouting, you're not as right as you think you are. Further more, the guy you keep trying to dismiss with your sarcastic "Mr. Expert" is providing a method for factual, numbers-based way to determine if you're getting adequate lighting in areas you need it or not, and you just keep yelling "my eyes don't lie". Remember, the plural of anecdote isn't data.

The fact that you can't seem to acknowledge that your lights hotspot because you moved the focal point of light in the reflector tells me that you don't fully understand what you're trying to claim knowledge on; and I don't care how many kilometers you drive in the dark every year.

Of course lighting to the sides of the road is important when deciding on lights. Do the moose only stand in the middle of the road out on the Rock? Last I checked stuff comes at you from the shoulders of the road, so lighting off to the side is fairly critical. Offroad lighting, when speaking of moving slowly through a trail, can be diffused and light close up. Lighting at speed, so say... on the highway, needs to be more directional and focused. So yes. Scattered, ****ty light works fine offroad on a trail at 40km/h or less, but when you're travelling down a highway at 100km/h or more, beam pattern and where your light goes is a touch more important.

Wanna see something neat? Here's 2 pictures, one with a pair of Hella 500FFs, and then a second picture with 500FFs and 500 with fresnels pointed to flood out the ditches. Notice the distinct lack of hotspotting you had on your garage wall? Know why? 'Cause I'm using 100w halogen bulbs, not HIDs. It also doesn't flood the foreground with a bunch of scattered useless light to kill your pupils. It sends light downrange where the reflector was designed to put it. (Remember what I said earlier about quantity of light vs quality)? Drove across the country with this setup, in the dark, in the winter. Provided more than adequate lighting to prevent eye fatigue and turned on and off with my highbeams no problem, no waiting for them to heat up after, and no blinding oncoming traffic.

(the road crowns slightly up away from the car, so you can see the beam hitting the ground all the way out. On level ground the light casts out to infinity)

View attachment 339852

View attachment 339851

The low-beams are also casting some foreground hotspotting as well. I can dig up the picture from the same spot with just the low-beams if required, all shots were done with the same camera settings, but I forget what they were now because this was at least 5 years ago.

BTW, did you notice that the 500 driving beam project light farther than the FF.....ALSO, I stated time and time again that there was HID going in the lamps. You prove nothing. I am saying that when HID is installed....the ff flowers really bad, and with Halogens they do not put light as far as the driving beams. PROVEN FACT.

I know that in MY LIGHTS, I do not have said HOT SPOT you say I do. My light put out an even beam of light no dark spots, no hot spots, no super bright forground light no dark holes in the forground. and YES> I drive ALOT in the night...I know what works and what does not...I do NOT have scattered ****TY light like you claim. I set my cruise at 100kmh in the night, And do so quite comfortably as I can see so far up the road for animals. If I had ****ty light, i would not be able to do that. Also, in your first pic, Is that your FFs only?

I don't have any eyestrain with my HID, and having quick fire's its like less than a second and they are fully on. and again, if you were driving towards me with your FFs on and never turn them off, I would throw my Maglite out the window at you. would be 40 bucks well spent for an ************ leaving their goddamn brights on at me.
 
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thethePete

Explorer
I think your full of you know what!

The very fact that you refuse to acknowledge someone's expertise on a topic says volumes. You keep spouting anecdotal evidence but that is not fact.

I noticed that I had the 500s pointed further up and out than the 500FFs, so yes, the lighting pattern appeared to go further.

You're not even reading what I wrote. I said that the HIDs make those flowers and hotspots because the light is not in the correct spot for the reflector to work properly. Try absorbing what your eyes are reading instead of just getting fired up and yelling louder.

You showed us the hotspotting in your little demo pictures. I responded with pictures of the correct bulbs in the housings and the lack of hotspotting you were bitching about.

HIDs take time to warm up. Period. This is not something that can be argued. It's a function of how they work. People put HIDs in stock headlight housings and think they have "better" light too, doesn't make them right either.

You keep threatening violence against people using their driving lights on the highway, but claim you do the very same thing. What part of "Treat them like your high beams" is not getting through to you? In one post you claim you use your offroad lights on the highway when it's empty, in the next you claim people who do that are the spawn of satan and you'll throw things at them if they ever do it; as if you're the only person on the planet that knows how to turn off their high beams for oncoming traffic.


It's ok, Kojack. You know everything. We all pale in comparison to your vast knowledge of all things airbags, and lighting, and and and.... Wait... What exactly do you do for a living? Because I work on vehicles professionally, and have been doing so for a while now. I'm pretty familiar with the systems and how they're supposed to operate correctly.

Furthermore, look at the beam pattern Hella shows the 500FF to project. They have their LUX chart available on the site. Also, they don't even list the regular 500 fresneled lens anymore on their site. They have the 500 Fog, and the 500FF in a driving beam. I'm sure you can get them elsewhere still, but they're not listed on their site anymore.
 

kojackJKU

Autism Family Travellers!
NO. I don't do that, they get turned off before ************* cars get to me....jesus....are you dense. I also showed the flowering beam with the STOCK BULBS. its there even with the stock halogens. Sorry again. ANd no, adding HID to stock headlights do ****. plain and simple. HOWEVER, They do work in various Driving light housings which is WHAT IS BEING DISCUSSED HERE. AND THE NORMAL 500 HOUSINGS take HID great. Jesus how hard is that to pound through your head.

I build, restore, and modify vintage motorcycles, snowmobiles and ATVs. I also have built WRC rally cars for teams, I have also built 3 teams cars for targa rallies. I have also built an alcohol injected turbo Civic that ran 13sec in the 1/4 mile from a 1.5 l 4 cyl engine. hmmmmmm Shall I go on? OK, since you asked.....I have built numerous 300 plus hp snowmobiles (reliable btw, not just bolt it together and blow it up, these stay running)....I don't half *** ****. Build it right or don't do it. And yeah, I KNOW about airbags. In that thread you FAILED TO READ what I was saying about them too. you obviously have issue with listening...not me. I am saying the same thing over and over, and you are trying to come up with ways to skirt around what I am saying. but that's ok.....

as for bill.....he's a legend in his own mind. goes and plays in his garage with little meters etc, gets some cash tossed to him by JW and danny god! good on him, if he can get some free stuff or a bit of cash to visit sites, and say this is best because my meter said so, and NOT my eyes. good on him...
 

thethePete

Explorer
Just keep yelling, that'll make you more righter.

Yes, drag the airbag discussion over here, the one where you suggested using in-coil air bags on a leafsprung set up and refused to accept simple facts as true, because you know better than the laws of physics.

It's ok. You're right, we're all just idiots.
 

punisher1130

Adventurer
Alright settle down guys, no need to get worked up. From a outside point of view you both are getting heated over a miss communication, it happens to the best of us, just step away from your computers, grab a beer and kick back to regain composure. This post isn't a pissing ground or anything it was for ideas on light patters based the housing shapes and what gives the best and biggest bang for the lowest buck between the lights I knew of and what others have worked with.
 

thethePete

Explorer
Oh I'm done. It's just impossibly frustrating to watch kojack continually spread misinformation and argue with knowledgeable people until they just give up out of frustration. He does it all over here, but bedamned anyone who argues with him, cause this is what happens. Stubborn ignorance is the worst.

Sent from my SM-G870W using Tapatalk
 

punisher1130

Adventurer
That is something that happens every where but being a mechanic my self, I can spot bs when I see it, thus far he has given useful info and from my view you both are making the same point with different words and arguing over nothing while dragging things into this post that isn't needed or relative to this post.

From what has been gathered you both agree the FF's are not very good with hid but the regular 500 are good for hid, what you 2 have been arguing about isn't needed. Truth be told I am not looking for any kind of driving lights, I am looking for something strictly off road and extreme bad weather use only, everything else will be handled with my headlights and my factory fog lights.

The way I drive never changes based on terrains I am always looking at both what is in front of me and what is ahead, so for my needs I want something the lights up everything in close range so I can drive accordingly and lights can throw far down range so I can see what's ahead and know what I face next. This is why I was thinking of using flood lights and spot lights, floods for up close and to fan out to cover the corners and the spots for down range.

I want hid for the front because they give the light I want for the front, I will use led lights for under my truck, the dead sides of my truck and the read of my truck, that is my plan and I wont deviate from it, I have been a driver for over 5 years now and I know where light is best used for me to see and that is what I view to be best for me, if anyone else benefits from how things work for me then great if not then all well it doesn't make me wrong or right.

Now please, I am asking you both nicely, let it all go and leave it off this post, ultimately in the end its childish on both ends to argue like that, I know how things are when frustration kicks in and ego's take over but its better to walk away and ignore it than egg on the fight and have it escalade. Its like the saying goes, there's more than one way to skin a deer.
 
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kojackJKU

Autism Family Travellers!
Just keep yelling, that'll make you more righter.

Yes, drag the airbag discussion over here, the one where you suggested using in-coil air bags on a leafsprung set up and refused to accept simple facts as true, because you know better than the laws of physics.

It's ok. You're right, we're all just idiots.

now you got it right. and, again, you do NOT READ anything. Bringing up **** from other thread to make you look....."righter" as you would say. give it up....and grow up.....thanks!


Punisher, what you are stating, is exactly what I have mine setup to do. I wish you were close by I could show you first hand how well my setup performs. I have had numerous people that own umpteen rigid bars, cubes etc on their rigs comment how good my lighting is. Where I drive ALOT of miles in the night, I want something that works, if my setup was as ****ty as the expert and his lacky up there says I would not use it. The 500 driving beam puts out smooth light with no hotspots etc as being tossed around...I don't know if they have no idea on how to aim lights, and have them pointed straight at the ground or not...dunno, but I know I have used 500s for the past 20 years with the same result. I used to run 130w halogens, while good, the HID kit IN THE 500 DRIVING LIGHT was miles ahead. for bad weather, you want dedicated FOG lights. I mean true fog, not spread light, not flood light, FOG. I run the selective yellow hella 450 fog lights as that is what I could fit where they needed to go. If I could run bigger, I would have. I have yet to see an LED bar, cube, light, perform well in fog, all of their light output is blue/white and horrible in fog. Even my trucklites put out this color. While they have great beam pattern , I do like halogen "color" for crap weather. Again, if something in my setup did not work good, it would not be on there. I trust my life to my lights on the highways here. I do frequent 8 hr drives in the dark to bring family members to airports etc and we have the highest concentration of moose in North America. Its not uncommon to see 20-30 in one drive. Plus we have other big animals that can take you out as well.

Others can claim this or that, and use their lights once or twice a year....hardly expertise. When I put 50-60k or more a year on in the DARK, I have some experience and expertise in the matter, I don't need silly meters etc. Its only since LED came on the scene that anyone cares about how many lumens a light puts out....before that, they bolted up a good light, and used their eyes to see how the lights actually performed.
 
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kojackJKU

Autism Family Travellers!
Oh I'm done. It's just impossibly frustrating to watch kojack continually spread misinformation and argue with knowledgeable people until they just give up out of frustration. He does it all over here, but bedamned anyone who argues with him, cause this is what happens. Stubborn ignorance is the worst.

Sent from my SM-G870W using Tapatalk

POT......KETTLE.....BLACK.
 

Hilldweller

SE Expedition Society
...
The way I drive never changes based on terrains I am always looking at both what is in front of me and what is ahead, so for my needs I want something the lights up everything in close range so I can drive accordingly and lights can throw far down range so I can see what's ahead and know what I face next. This is why I was thinking of using flood lights and spot lights, floods for up close and to fan out to cover the corners and the spots for down range...
How fast will you be going when you plan on using the lights?

Foreground light like floodlights produce is fine for slow-speed driving. But it's not good for highway use or foul weather ------ on the highway it will constrict your pupils and ruin your distant vision and in foul weather a floodlight will illuminate the rain/fog/snow above your hoodline and create a massive halo that you'll stare at rather than through.
Very foul weather requires a real foglight, wide pattern, aimed low ---- and a judicious application of the skinny pedal.

For highway use stick with an appropriately patterned auxiliary highbeam or driving light like the Hella Rallye 4000 Euro that I mentioned. Or a Cibie. Or any other quality driving light.
You can even make your own by sourcing a highbeam lamp and fitting it in a bucket ---- works great.
And, of course, rig it to come on only with your highbeams so that it's easily defeated.

For slow-speed driving in clear weather, I haven't tested anything better than the cheap-n-stinky Chinese HIDs. I've seen them for $30/pair at Ollie's and other discount warehouse places. 7" godlights. Stinkloads of light.
Again, counter-productive in very foul weather.

Retrofitting an HID burner into a lamp that's designed for a halogen burner produces inconsistent results. You usually won't wind up with a light that's good for highway use. And real HIDs are so cheap right now, why would you want to do this?


As for my testing protocols, I'm never paid for testing a light. In fact, I'm several hundred dollars in the hole from testing; a fact that my wife constantly holds over my head.
I often receive prototypes that I give back or production units that I either give to the person who donated their time/vehicle for the test, to a retailer in the area to showcase on their own vehicle, or to SOLAROS (our local Land Rover club) for their annual charity auction to benefit Habitat for Humanity. Trucklite, JW Speaker, & Optima have been very generous with their charitable contributions to that event.
I work in a test & measurement environment and my ethical code is consistent. If a product passes, it passes. If it fails, it fails. If one product is superior to another in a measurable way, I state it.
I try my best to keep my opinions separate from data. And I have opinions about lights. I like LED headlights better than HID for a variety of personal reasons even though the KIT from SMS runs circles around every other headlight I've tested.
That's where preference comes into play...
 

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