off road light housing

[thethePete]

We're not saying the same thing. Hid bulbs don't belong in non-hid housings. But I've washed my hands of this. Good luck.

Kojack you're an idiot.

Sent from my SM-G870W using Tapatalk

 

[Dendy Jarrett]

NO. I don't do that, they get turned off before ************* cars get to me....jesus....are you dense. I also showed the flowering beam with the STOCK BULBS. its there even with the stock halogens. Sorry again. ANd no, adding HID to stock headlights do ****. plain and simple. HOWEVER, They do work in various Driving light housings which is WHAT IS BEING DISCUSSED HERE. AND THE NORMAL 500 HOUSINGS take HID great. Jesus how hard is that to pound through your head.

I build, restore, and modify vintage motorcycles, snowmobiles and ATVs. I also have built WRC rally cars for teams, I have also built 3 teams cars for targa rallies. I have also built an alcohol injected turbo Civic that ran 13sec in the 1/4 mile from a 1.5 l 4 cyl engine. hmmmmmm Shall I go on? OK, since you asked.....I have built numerous 300 plus hp snowmobiles (reliable btw, not just bolt it together and blow it up, these stay running)....I don't half *** ****. Build it right or don't do it. And yeah, I KNOW about airbags. In that thread you FAILED TO READ what I was saying about them too. you obviously have issue with listening...not me. I am saying the same thing over and over, and you are trying to come up with ways to skirt around what I am saying. but that's ok.....

as for bill.....he's a legend in his own mind. goes and plays in his garage with little meters etc, gets some cash tossed to him by JW and danny god! good on him, if he can get some free stuff or a bit of cash to visit sites, and say this is best because my meter said so, and NOT my eyes. good on him...

I am not sure what is going on here with folks, but this type of language and behavior will simply NOT BE TOLERATED HERE. If I see it again, I will perma-ban anyone exhibiting this type of behavior.

Geesh folks.

Simmer down.

 

[punisher1130]

How fast will you be going when you plan on using the lights?

Foreground light like floodlights produce is fine for slow-speed driving. But it's not good for highway use or foul weather ------ on the highway it will constrict your pupils and ruin your distant vision and in foul weather a floodlight will illuminate the rain/fog/snow above your hoodline and create a massive halo that you'll stare at rather than through.
Very foul weather requires a real foglight, wide pattern, aimed low ---- and a judicious application of the skinny pedal.

For highway use stick with an appropriately patterned auxiliary highbeam or driving light like the Hella Rallye 4000 Euro that I mentioned. Or a Cibie. Or any other quality driving light.
You can even make your own by sourcing a highbeam lamp and fitting it in a bucket ---- works great.
And, of course, rig it to come on only with your highbeams so that it's easily defeated.

For slow-speed driving in clear weather, I haven't tested anything better than the cheap-n-stinky Chinese HIDs. I've seen them for $30/pair at Ollie's and other discount warehouse places. 7" godlights. Stinkloads of light.
Again, counter-productive in very foul weather.

Retrofitting an HID burner into a lamp that's designed for a halogen burner produces inconsistent results. You usually won't wind up with a light that's good for highway use. And real HIDs are so cheap right now, why would you want to do this?


As for my testing protocols, I'm never paid for testing a light. In fact, I'm several hundred dollars in the hole from testing; a fact that my wife constantly holds over my head.
I often receive prototypes that I give back or production units that I either give to the person who donated their time/vehicle for the test, to a retailer in the area to showcase on their own vehicle, or to SOLAROS (our local Land Rover club) for their annual charity auction to benefit Habitat for Humanity. Trucklite, JW Speaker, & Optima have been very generous with their charitable contributions to that event.
I work in a test & measurement environment and my ethical code is consistent. If a product passes, it passes. If it fails, it fails. If one product is superior to another in a measurable way, I state it.
I try my best to keep my opinions separate from data. And I have opinions about lights. I like LED headlights better than HID for a variety of personal reasons even though the KIT from SMS runs circles around every other headlight I've tested.
That's where preference comes into play...

I don't know what my speed would be off road, the way I drive is mainly to be safe on the road since I drive a cab over flat bed and has become a habit of how I drive and just simply works for me personally, but being a truck driver and having to deal with Florida's weather that can be bad enough to the point you can only see a couple feet in front of you, the skinny pedal control is handled and just need to make sure I can see safely in said weather, at least in my own truck anyway. I just want to make sure I have as much light as needed to see where I am driving the truck while on the trail.

Seeing that you are in Georgia Hilldweller you should know the weather I deal with since it usually hits me first and heads your way and I am hoping you have dealt with some lifted trucks before ( don't mean anything by that just hoping u can answer) my truck has a tough country 5.5 suspenion lift ( soon to be swapped to a solid axle) and a 3in body lift, how would I set my fogs up for optimal performance since my truck isn't stock?

 

[Hilldweller]

I don't know what my speed would be off road, the way I drive is mainly to be safe on the road since I drive a cab over flat bed and has become a habit of how I drive and just simply works for me personally, but being a truck driver and having to deal with Florida's weather that can be bad enough to the point you can only see a couple feet in front of you, the skinny pedal control is handled and just need to make sure I can see safely in said weather, at least in my own truck anyway. I just want to make sure I have as much light as needed to see where I am driving the truck while on the trail.

Seeing that you are in Georgia Hilldweller you should know the weather I deal with since it usually hits me first and heads your way and I am hoping you have dealt with some lifted trucks before ( don't mean anything by that just hoping u can answer) my truck has a tough country 5.5 suspenion lift ( soon to be swapped to a solid axle) and a 3in body lift, how would I set my fogs up for optimal performance since my truck isn't stock?

I completely understand your weather; I lived in Florida for 20 years before coming up here.

What kind of bumper are you mounting foglights in? There are a ton of good options.
If you can French a set in the bumper, these are some very good performers: http://www.rallylights.com/hella-90mm-fog-lamp-h7-with-rubber-boot.html
Especially with this bulb in them: http://store.candlepower.com/osraulhiouh7.html

 

[punisher1130]

now you got it right. and, again, you do NOT READ anything. Bringing up **** from other thread to make you look....."righter" as you would say. give it up....and grow up.....thanks!


Punisher, what you are stating, is exactly what I have mine setup to do. I wish you were close by I could show you first hand how well my setup performs. I have had numerous people that own umpteen rigid bars, cubes etc on their rigs comment how good my lighting is. Where I drive ALOT of miles in the night, I want something that works, if my setup was as ****ty as the expert and his lacky up there says I would not use it. The 500 driving beam puts out smooth light with no hotspots etc as being tossed around...I don't know if they have no idea on how to aim lights, and have them pointed straight at the ground or not...dunno, but I know I have used 500s for the past 20 years with the same result. I used to run 130w halogens, while good, the HID kit IN THE 500 DRIVING LIGHT was miles ahead. for bad weather, you want dedicated FOG lights. I mean true fog, not spread light, not flood light, FOG. I run the selective yellow hella 450 fog lights as that is what I could fit where they needed to go. If I could run bigger, I would have. I have yet to see an LED bar, cube, light, perform well in fog, all of their light output is blue/white and horrible in fog. Even my trucklites put out this color. While they have great beam pattern , I do like halogen "color" for crap weather. Again, if something in my setup did not work good, it would not be on there. I trust my life to my lights on the highways here. I do frequent 8 hr drives in the dark to bring family members to airports etc and we have the highest concentration of moose in North America. Its not uncommon to see 20-30 in one drive. Plus we have other big animals that can take you out as well.

Others can claim this or that, and use their lights once or twice a year....hardly expertise. When I put 50-60k or more a year on in the DARK, I have some experience and expertise in the matter, I don't need silly meters etc. Its only since LED came on the scene that anyone cares about how many lumens a light puts out....before that, they bolted up a good light, and used their eyes to see how the lights actually performed.

I can do without the targeting of other please drop that, but the point is made, headlights and factory fogs for my usual driving, hella 500 driving to do a hid conversion on, true fogs for bad weather ( would aim those little lower than my factory fogs) and spot lights for above the cab. As for aiming, that is the easy part seeing as I do plan to run more than 2 lights total ( not including the main headlights and factory fogs) I will just make sure I have the light spread out covering as much as possible, and I live on a decent plot of land so I have space to work with on aiming.

 

[punisher1130]

I completely understand your weather; I lived in Florida for 20 years before coming up here.

What kind of bumper are you mounting foglights in? There are a ton of good options.
If you can French a set in the bumper, these are some very good performers: http://www.rallylights.com/hella-90mm-fog-lamp-h7-with-rubber-boot.html
Especially with this bulb in them: http://store.candlepower.com/osraulhiouh7.html

Well that is the tricky part, there isn't many options for Dakota's off road, as of right now I have the stock bumper but I am looking to either get the tough country apache bumper or may have a bumper made if it can be done cheaper than the apache bumper. Either way its nothing a drill and drill bit cant fix lol.
If I didn't know better I'd say that hella 90 could fit in the factory fog light location on the stock bumper.

 

[Hilldweller]

Well that is the tricky part, there isn't many options for Dakota's off road, as of right now I have the stock bumper but I am looking to either get the tough country apache bumper or may have a bumper made if it can be done cheaper than the apache bumper. Either way its nothing a drill and drill bit cant fix lol.
If I didn't know better I'd say that hella 90 could fit in the factory fog light location on the stock bumper.

Might...
Look at two of the other Hellas too, the 120mm and the 50mm. I like the bulb option on the 90mm; the H7 with 65w is just low enough to stay sane but is a "boy-howdy" amount of light. I wouldn't use the over-wattage H1 or H3s that are available for the other modules for foglights. Driving lights, sure ---- blast away.
With the foglights, the idea is to have them aimed low so you can leave them on with your lowbeams and not blind on-coming traffic.

 

[punisher1130]

Might...
Look at two of the other Hellas too, the 120mm and the 50mm. I like the bulb option on the 90mm; the H7 with 65w is just low enough to stay sane but is a "boy-howdy" amount of light. I wouldn't use the over-wattage H1 or H3s that are available for the other modules for foglights. Driving lights, sure ---- blast away.
With the foglights, the idea is to have them aimed low so you can leave them on with your lowbeams and not blind on-coming traffic.

I will check those out too but the 90mm is perfect for my price range so I may just run with those with a yellow cover and try to tap them into the fog light circuit so they come on with my fogs and aim them a little lower towards the street than my factory fogs.

 

[thethePete]

Again, POT.....KETTLE......BLACK.........

I love how when someone has nothing to say that makes any sense comes back with the personal insults....Shows your true intelligence. I LOVE IT....keep calling names like you are losing a game in the playground sand box.....*snip*

Nope, I just know when to walk away.

And stop shouting.
----


Punisher, just make sure you mount them as low as possible on the truck, keep them under the road spray. When you aim them, use the standardized headlight aiming method, it gets your beam pointed in a good spot. Pull up close to a wall, turn on the lights, mark a spot on the wall 1" down from the hotspot of the beam pattern, back up 20' and aim your lights so the cut-off is at that line. That'll leave you in good shape to use all the light you've got, regardless of what you choose for illumination. A square housing will give you a wider, more useful beam in big rainfall (I live in Vancouver, I understand the monsoon that can turn an afternoon into a blackout too).... For just regular dark, a good spot will get light way down range and your fogs will still provide good ditch lighting/cornering light.

 

[punisher1130]

Punisher, just make sure you mount them as low as possible on the truck, keep them under the road spray. When you aim them, use the standardized headlight aiming method, it gets your beam pointed in a good spot. Pull up close to a wall, turn on the lights, mark a spot on the wall 1" down from the hotspot of the beam pattern, back up 20' and aim your lights so the cut-off is at that line. That'll leave you in good shape to use all the light you've got, regardless of what you choose for illumination. A square housing will give you a wider, more useful beam in big rainfall (I live in Vancouver, I understand the monsoon that can turn an afternoon into a blackout too).... For just regular dark, a good spot will get light way down range and your fogs will still provide good ditch lighting/cornering light.

Alright I will see at I can do, my truck is lifted so the traditional way wont be much help but I can figure it out when the time comes.

 

[thethePete]

Actually that'll still get you close, but look around, I've seen some good measurements to shoot for, measured up off the ground. My ranger is 2" over stock and that still got me spot on though. Either way, I always find a long empty road to do my final tweaks. Tree lined and narrow actually works well because you can see where your light is going out to the sides easier than a big empty field.

Sent from my SM-G870W using Tapatalk

 

[punisher1130]

Got a few roads similar to that around here, just a matter of making sure there is no traffic.

 

[thethePete]

http://chuxtrux.com/n-11141-how-to-aim-fog-lights-driving-lights-the-right-way.html

10-24" off the ground or 4" down from the centre of the light, and 25' back. I was close, pulling from memory.

 

[punisher1130]

I will worry about it at a later date since my truck is lifted and I am looking at a different bumper for my truck.

 

[Hilldweller]

I will worry about it at a later date since my truck is lifted and I am looking at a different bumper for my truck.

Call the dead center of your light source "the horizon".
Find a level surface and wall, 25 feet distance, aim your headlight cut-off about 2.5" below its horizon and your foglight about 4" below its horizon. That should work with your lift height.
You can tweak both from there ---- what kind of headlights are you running? Maybe we can improve them too. That's usually the first way to go.

Scott F on this forum has a Grand Cherokee diesel that comes stock with 9005/9006 hi/low beams. Those lamps can legally fit HIR 1&2 bulbs in for a very significant upgrade. He did that and also ran a relayed bypass harness directly to his battery. The results were astounding; the LUX at all of my measurement points exceeded anything I had previously tested, including most stock HID systems.
Of course you need a nice clear lens for that. Many OE lenses get milky from debris and UV exposure.