Overland Journal: Discovery I, 5-speed

sinuhexavier

Explorer
I'm not sure if the dixon bates will even work on the ARB winch bumper. Will you be able to get the pin out from the top or would you have to mount it upside down? I run the shackle mounting brackets from EE. I know the dixon bates are tight but I hate having anything rattling on my truck. I could just see those chains rattling and driving me crazy.

X2 those dixon bates belong on already noisy trucks like defenders...
 

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
I have done some more research.

Here is the exact part number for my wheels, taken from the stamping:
ANR4636

They are 16x5.5 with a 33mm BS.
Just catching up on this thread.
Glad I'm not loosing my mind ;)
Good things are worth keeping around I guess, same wheels as fitted to my '67 109 6 cyl's.

What do people generally think of the Dixon-Bate recovery points?
I guess it depends on the terrain you expect to be on. I can see where them sticking out might be in the way in some situations, but I haven't experienced that here in the east. The ARB I think will need good reinforcement to handle them.
The one you pictured is the 5T
t201910.jpg

The CT, I'm pretty sure, used the 3.5T jaw (at least the Disco in the photo has those). If that's really the case, given the yanks I've seen them endure, I'd think the 3.5T would be fine.
t201661.jpg


The new 3.5T ones have nylon coated SS cable securing the pin, so shouldn't be too much noise.

A rotating pintle works well in the rear, and is good for off-road trailers as well, two birds with one stone as it were. I've used mine for doing recovery a lot.
tFV987958.jpg



They seem very heavy to justify two of them mounted on the front as in that Camel pic.
My guess is that two were used so that a bridle could be used during recovery to distribute the stresses, the better rigging method.
 
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Mike_rupp

Adventurer
Here are a few pictures of the Discovery and Defender pads and calipers.
 

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revor

Explorer
Here are a few pictures of the Discovery and Defender pads and calipers.

Doesn't every Disco owner change their front rotors and calipers for late model (post 1994) stuff?
Didja know that late model 110 rotors and calipers fit and are again bigger?
:sombrero:
 

Mike_rupp

Adventurer
Doesn't every Disco owner change their front rotors and calipers for late model (post 1994) stuff?
Didja know that late model 110 rotors and calipers fit and are again bigger?
:sombrero:

I have no way of knowing if every Disco owner changes their front rotors and calipers to late model D90 stuff. Did you change yours?

I did read somewhere that the 110 rotors are larger. Are you implying that I made a mistake by using the D90 stuff?
 

Scott Brady

Founder
Here are a few pictures of the Discovery and Defender pads and calipers.

Those attached images are impressive... I love the idea of using totally factory components like that, yet gaining fade resistance (vented) and increased pad surface and clamping force from the new calipers.

Do you have a list of parts you used for that conversion, or can you point me to a link if you have already posted that somewhere else.

Thanks.
 

Crookthumb

Adventurer
Doesn't every Disco owner change their front rotors and calipers for late model (post 1994) stuff?
Didja know that late model 110 rotors and calipers fit and are again bigger?
:sombrero:

Are there any clearance issues with the larger calipers and pads? Do all LR wheels with the proper bolt pattern mount right up? As far as the brake hoses won't you have to switch over to male fittings for the Defender calipers? I have been wondering about this conversion since JSQ mentioned something about it on the EE BBS. So do you just change out calipers, rotors, pads, and lines?
 

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
Do you have a list of parts you used for that conversion, or can you point me to a link if you have already posted that somewhere else.
You can just get OEM calipers, rotors and pads. I'm a cheap SOB so I got reman calipers (Cardone, but they looked new), Wagner pads and Raybestos (I think it was) rotors. The rear is the same as the D1.
At the same time I got a new Girling MC from AB (I've got 250k miles on my D1), extended SS brake lines from RTE, and a short piece of metal brake line to connect to the caliper from the flex line (but you can just rework your existing one). You'll also need the hardware kit (springs and pins).
 
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Antichrist

Expedition Leader
Are there any clearance issues with the larger calipers and pads? Do all LR wheels with the proper bolt pattern mount right up?
Any you're likely to use. The Land Rover two part rims won't clear them, but they don't clear the stock Discovery calipers either. I think the 15" rims won't clear them either but can't remember and can't be bothered to go try a set.
 

Mike_rupp

Adventurer
Calipers: SEB500460G & SEB500470G (formerly STC1266 and STC 1267)
Rotors: FTC902
Pads: I used Ferodo 1997 D90 pads
Hard brake line: Napa 813-1261

Regarding the question about brake lines: when the change is made to D90 calipers, only the hard brake line is changed, so all that one needs is a straight line that matches up with the stock line. Like Tom mentioned, the stock line could be reworked to deal with the different location on the D90 caliper, but I'm sure that I'd kink the old line, so I'll be starting from scratch.
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
A rotating pintle works well in the rear, and is good for off-road trailers as well, two birds with one stone as it were. I've used mine for doing recovery a lot.

I'm curious about this because I have to make a decision soon about an off-road coupling for my trailer. I've built it with an extendible ball coupling, but which is also removable to be able to use an off-road capable coupling. I like the "Lok-n-Roll" coupling, but at $200... which is really $400 by the time I get it up here... it's a bit spendy. I can easily get a pintle hook setup, but, I don't think they're rotating? The one pictured can swivel? Interesting. I'm pretty sure the ones I've seen are fixed.

How can these be used as recovery points? I can see clipping a strap in there, but I'd think it could pull into the gap in the jaws? Or do you put a shackle in the jaws and the strap in the shackle?

How noisy is a pintle hook trailer coupling? I'd only use it off-road, but I'd fear the rattling could drive me insane.
 

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
Regarding the question about brake lines: when the change is made to D90 calipers, only the hard brake line is changed, so all that one needs is a straight line that matches up with the stock line.
Literally that's true, though given the age of the vehicle in question I strongly suggest also replacing all 4 flex lines, and even the MC.
While not exactly cheap, in the scheme of things it's not that bad and it's not unusual to have a MC go after fitting all new cylinders or calipers, when the MC is old. Also, I'd do a complete flush with new fluid before installing the new parts so no old stuff gets in the new parts.

The short metal line I used was Beck/Arnley 0340731086, 3/16 x 8, bubble flare on both female ends. I converted to Defender flex lines in the front.

Since you'll have the hubs off to do the brake conversion, I also suggest installing RTC3511 double lip seals instead of the stupid OE Disco seals.
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
Any details on the rotating loop (lunette ring)? Never seen one.

I was also thinking of fabbing up something ghetto using a cheap tractor U-joint, or just machining something from scratch. the concept is really pretty simple.

Just, the idea of using a pintle hook as a recovery point intrigued me.

The trailer has electric brakes, I'm intending on using a Tekonsha Prodigee.
 

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