Scott Brady
Founder
They are rated and stamped mud and snow (M+S)
Overland Journal Project Land Rover Discovery 4 (LR4)
- Thread starter Scott Brady
- Start date
Awsome build up Scott, loving it.
OK I have two suggestions and one is a must do if your going to run 33s on a Discovery 4 or 3 for that matter, GOE emergency air up kit, this is a must because if you get a suspension fault and the car lowers down to the bump stops, you're going knowhere.
Read here
http://greenovalexperience.com/eas_inflation_kit.html
Also have a look at this system, it's called LLAMS, it is an electrically controlled lift system and works in the same way as Johnson Rods, but is controlled by you as an on demand lift, no crawling in the wheel well to give the lift, just flick a switch to lower or raise the car.
http://www.llams.com.au/?p=11
Have fun
Baz.
OK I have two suggestions and one is a must do if your going to run 33s on a Discovery 4 or 3 for that matter, GOE emergency air up kit, this is a must because if you get a suspension fault and the car lowers down to the bump stops, you're going knowhere.
Read here
http://greenovalexperience.com/eas_inflation_kit.html
Also have a look at this system, it's called LLAMS, it is an electrically controlled lift system and works in the same way as Johnson Rods, but is controlled by you as an on demand lift, no crawling in the wheel well to give the lift, just flick a switch to lower or raise the car.
http://www.llams.com.au/?p=11
Have fun
Baz.
I brought a couple of these into the states (to save on shipping). If anyone wants one, let me know.
Llams does allow on-the-fly. It works by intercepting the 4 height sensor signals before they reach the controller/computer. The box adds/subtracts voltage, PWM (or whatever the signal is) and feeds the modified signal to the ECU for the car to control the valves as OEM. The car itself still thinks it's at whatever height the OEM Terrain Response is set for.
From what I can gather, the IDtool actually programs the OEM ECU with new values for each height - although I suppose it might also program the OEM ECU with an off-set, or "trim", value for the same effect.
SteveMfr
Supporting Sponsor
Phyrra is absolutely correct: the IIDTool (or EASControl for those wanting only the EAS functionality) reprograms the target height settings in the EAS ECU whereas the Llams goes between the height sensors and the ECU and alters the signals - sort of like 'electronic rods'. The Llams does allow an 'on the fly' adjustment whereas the IIDTool or EASControl would require a stop and plugging in the module to the OBD port to make the adjustment. On the upside, though, the adjustment can be done in less than a minute and, in contrast to the Llams, the IIDTool or EASControl require no installation or holes drilled in the dash to install switches. The IIDTool and EASControl also have several internal memory slots for different height profiles to make switching even quicker.
Here is a vid of the process LR3 / RRS (although this is lowering...)
Navigating the menu is done using the cruise control switches: resume=enter, +and- =up and down, and cruise off=cancel
The other big difference between the Llams and the IIDTool/EASControl is price. The EASControl is considerably less expensive and offers EAS diagnostics (fault read/clear, etc) and the IIDTool for the LR3 is in the same price category as the Llams and offers full diagnostics on all systems. The LR4 IIDTool will be slightly more expensive due to development of the display firmware (but it looks really nice
).
I am not a big fan of emergency add air systems either. IMO you are simply adding a potential for leaks - and you still need an external compressor. Catastrophic EAS compressor failures are nearly unheard of, so assuming the compressor is in OK shape you can jumper the solenoid-valves and compressor to operate the EAS manually quite easily. If a compressor goes, it will be due to piston seal wear and make itself noticeable by becoming slower and running longer. And, if you really want to be on the safe side you can a single add air valve to the compressor input tube as well - but IMO it is not necessary. I would carry jumper wires and instructions (pin #'s for the appropriate connectors) in my toolkit, tho.
Mack, Redback - sorry if this comes off as being very contradictory. Don't mean it to. This just reflects my experiences in playing with EAS equipped LR's for the past 12+ years. And I am also a part of GAP Diagnostic, so I am biased there)
Here is a vid of the process LR3 / RRS (although this is lowering...)
Navigating the menu is done using the cruise control switches: resume=enter, +and- =up and down, and cruise off=cancel
The other big difference between the Llams and the IIDTool/EASControl is price. The EASControl is considerably less expensive and offers EAS diagnostics (fault read/clear, etc) and the IIDTool for the LR3 is in the same price category as the Llams and offers full diagnostics on all systems. The LR4 IIDTool will be slightly more expensive due to development of the display firmware (but it looks really nice
).I am not a big fan of emergency add air systems either. IMO you are simply adding a potential for leaks - and you still need an external compressor. Catastrophic EAS compressor failures are nearly unheard of, so assuming the compressor is in OK shape you can jumper the solenoid-valves and compressor to operate the EAS manually quite easily. If a compressor goes, it will be due to piston seal wear and make itself noticeable by becoming slower and running longer. And, if you really want to be on the safe side you can a single add air valve to the compressor input tube as well - but IMO it is not necessary. I would carry jumper wires and instructions (pin #'s for the appropriate connectors) in my toolkit, tho.
Mack, Redback - sorry if this comes off as being very contradictory. Don't mean it to. This just reflects my experiences in playing with EAS equipped LR's for the past 12+ years. And I am also a part of GAP Diagnostic, so I am biased there
)Yes you can do it on the fly, you can lower the car 20mm below on road height for high speed freeway driving or want to go into that underground carpark and not worry about scrapping the roof rack, or go 30mm and 50mm above on road height(which is offroad height) without the suspension lowering once you go over 50kph, so is much more user friendly, especially if you do a lot of sand driving.
All at the turn of a knob at any time
Baz.
khronus79
Adventurer
So, if I understand correctly, if I want to run in offroad height all the time I need shorter rods + IID Tool(since I want to buy the IID)???? Or is the IID Tool able to run in offroad height at any speed??
Does the LLAMS offer any diagnostics or is it simply a virtual rod???
Does the LLAMS offer any diagnostics or is it simply a virtual rod???
Scott Brady
Founder
The IID Tool allows you to set new values for suspension height, so you can go +60mm and normal mode will now be nearly "Off-Road" and as a result, "Off-Road" will now be +60mm higher as well. It is a software adjustment instead of a physical adjustment like the Johnson Rods. The clear advantage to the IID tool is adjustability and the other functions it allows modifications of. If you are only looking to make the suspension taller and keep it that way, then the Johnson Rods are a good value.
Jwestpro
Explorer
I have more than their build and I have weighed in just over 8000 lbs on a solo trip (1 person!) (full RS sliders, full underside Rasta plates, 2nd air tank and air compressor, bigger 2nd battery, larger and heavier Hannibal rack, 2 awnings by Hannibal, RTT on some trips, jerry cans, etc)
E range tires with 121/123 or higher were my first "mod"
Steve,
Please explain this in a bit more detail and/or point me to the instructions for how to do this.
okay so let me try to clear the mud in my mind.
Johnson rods, truck is lifted up so all 3 settings are slightly elevated, but truck thinks it is still in stock no messing with the ecu? put on rods, then get it aligned and go on with it, or swap at trail, but don't drive as will cause excessive tire wear if not properly aligned? Why wouldn't people do this method?
LLams or IId, can change it from in the cab, no swapping rods and with IID you can clear and run codes, as well as set values? if you put rods on and used this you would get an even larger lift? would you be able to have the rods on and still drop the truck to the bump stops by setting the values with enough negative?
nwoods
Expedition Leader
Most people running a lift on the LR3/4/RRS do it this way. Can pose problems with excessive wear on CV's, but does provide the value of the lift at very little initial cost.
Adding rods not very effective, because ultimately, the shocks only have so much travel. You would also significantly increase the CV angles and make them more prone to problems. The software lift is a great idea because its temporary, only use it when you need it (reduces tire wear and CV issues), can be calibrated to set your ride height to whatever it needs to be for the given terrain, equipment load out, tire size, etc... clears faults that can otherwise render the LR3/4/RRS from dragging itself home in Limp Home Mode, and ultimately, goes best with the whole Grey Poupon motif
FWIW, as a long time fan of the LR3, I would not hesitate for a second to use the IID tool from GAP, whereas, I have never endorsed the use of lift rods.