Overlandtowater
Well-known member
So my set of drawes slide! Not perfect but the are parallel.
Overlandtowater’s solid axle suburban
- Thread starter Overlandtowater
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Overlandtowater
Well-known member
Sticks out about 3/4 as long as th hatch 
Buddha.
Finally in expo white.
Those frequently rust and break off here, looks like the nut backed off on yours though.
rayra
Expedition Leader
Gotta go 2" to clear the factory studs. Or put new shorter studs in. I went with 2"
The rub might have been the weight shift of being side down in the ditch.
I'm pretty sure the bolts can be flipped. I just had those apart with I changed coils and disassembled and lubed everything. It was a straight in shot with a 6" extension to get to the heads of those upper shock bolts, so it ought to work flipping the bolts.
And who cut the notches in the wheel tub / liner that shielded those bolt ends? Bad Dog! No biscuit!
The rub might have been the weight shift of being side down in the ditch.
I'm pretty sure the bolts can be flipped. I just had those apart with I changed coils and disassembled and lubed everything. It was a straight in shot with a 6" extension to get to the heads of those upper shock bolts, so it ought to work flipping the bolts.
And who cut the notches in the wheel tub / liner that shielded those bolt ends? Bad Dog! No biscuit!
Overlandtowater
Well-known member
I noticed that but its hard to tell if it broke above these threads because of the mud all over it...I had someone tell to they removed the front sway-bar on a Yukon and they have been all over the US he said he could tell no difference but like me he has the torsion bars cranked.
Overlandtowater
Well-known member
That would be me...I was not removing that liner to get to the bolts, I started by just bending out of the way but the passenger side ripped and I thought ..oh well I will just notch it. They can be flipped and I tried it when I did the coils but man it was a pain in the butt and just flipped them back around.
as far as the weight shifting I crossed that same ditch multiple times in both directions, I'm assuming here but wouldn't shift in both directions?
Good catch on the studs being too long for 1.5" spacers I still don't know if I want to put spacers on, it may be just as easy to build a 2" longer panhard bar to shift the rear end back over....or it could just be worn out bushings.
rayra
Expedition Leader
I'd look for slack or worn bushings or even damage to the bar, it's cheap to replace. But also take a good look at the upper and lower control arms / links. Make sure those mounts / tabs aren't bent. I found the lower arms to be pretty flimsy and went with the Spohn boxed lowers (but haven't yet put them to any significant test yet.
You can do a simple plumb bob test from your frame rails to the axle tube to gauge if your axle is actually shifted over, sitting at rest on level ground. I'll be installing my new rear brake rotors Sunday morning, I can do / take some comparative measurements while I've got things apart, if that would be useful to you.
if anything, at full extension the panhard would contribute to the axle shifting towards the passenger side of the vehicle, if I understand it correctly. I've never really examined how that device is supposed to be helping. I mean it's there to control lateral shifting in 'normal' driving, but at the extreme range it would seem to be doing the opposite.
That pic of the rub marks across the shock bolt, did the bolt tip tear up the inner sidewall of your driver rear tire? That to me would seem to comport with the axle shifting rightward at greater extension due to the geometry of the panhard's swing. Not bent or damaged, but rather that things moved according to the geometry of the design.
I think spacers or negative offset rims would avoid a repeat. I don't think you can just stick a long bar in there to shove the axle over. I mean it would work for a little while, but if something else is really bent it would likely result in the panhard or its mounts failing.
/come to think of it with my 2" rear coil spacers, my axle is probably already offset a hair to the right. We shall see.
Overlandtowater
Well-known member
Started working on the cooking drawer, got all my pocket holes drilled put the drawer together cut my slide out cutting board to fit cut the 1.25 aluminium angle as a slide for the cutting board/ counter top. Got it all together slid it in the cabinet and crap both slides will not fit. I'm about an 1/8" to narrow.
Overlandtowater
Well-known member
wow I didn't realize how dirty the stove was from sitting in the shop....looks like the stove in the kitchen of a Mexican restaurant.
D
Deleted member 374434BT
Guest
Man, you got all of your money out of those Kreg jigs.
Overlandtowater
Well-known member
Overlandtowater
Well-known member
Got my slide out counter top done. Slow going about an hou a night.
rayra
Expedition Leader
Nice work on the pullout. How sturdy is it all when it and drawer are fully extended?
I haven't used my propane two-burner in so long I never even mocked it up with my setup.
Crew Dragon astronauts are knocking off for a sleep period and the weather here is cooperating, so I'm about to head out for my rear brake re-work.And I'll try to get measurements and pics on the axle shift during extension.
I haven't used my propane two-burner in so long I never even mocked it up with my setup.
Crew Dragon astronauts are knocking off for a sleep period and the weather here is cooperating, so I'm about to head out for my rear brake re-work.And I'll try to get measurements and pics on the axle shift during extension.
Overlandtowater
Well-known member
Its sturdy enough i put the stove hooked up a propane bottle a about 10 lbs on the stove my whole cabinet tipped and i had to hold it down. I hope to
only use the slide out as a counter top and make a shelf on my up coming swing out project to cook on.
only use the slide out as a counter top and make a shelf on my up coming swing out project to cook on.