Coroplast comes with a carpeted side from some suppliers. I wanted to go that way but couldn’t find a local source in Phoenix and passed.
@tgoff is right that VHB can be used with coroplast — I’ve done so a lot, but there are some tricks and caveats:
1) The type of VHB matters on various plastics. 5952 or any of the 59 series are really good. The LSE (low surface energy) VHB also. I’ve also used 5952 with some fabrics and non-adhesive velcro.
2) I think REAL 3m sticky velcro (not the Scotch brand, though I think that’s 3m too) does well over time on Coroplast — I’m going on two years in Phoenix heat with some.
3) I made the mistake early on of using some left over sticky velcro, that works great on aluminum on coroplast. In two years the velcro started slipping due to the adhesive started running and gooing up, but was totally hard to clear off. 4 years later its still good on aluminum though.
4) If you’re gonna stick your own carpet to Coroplast, do some tests first. All plastics start to leach plasticizer chemicals after a while that screw up the adhesives — especially in summer heat. LSE VHB resists to a large degree. The 59 series VHB works well with 3m’s primer applied first. You should alsopass a flame (cig lighter) over the plastic first to vaporize off the plasticizers. I do this, use a primer, and the 59 series VHB with no failures in some heavy duty applications (eg, a heavy gear drawer made of Coroplast). Use the primer on the back of the carpet, but I wouldn’t trust the the adhesive on self stick carpet squares to last.
5). Always wipe/scrub the surfaces with isopropyl alcohol, scuff up the surface and use a roller to seal the tape down. You should do this even on cordura type fabric like plain unsticky velcro.
Edit: 100% silicon caulk will also adhere well as long as it has air exposure and isn’t so thick as to prevent drying right
Good luck, but if you prep the material well VHB is kinda like magic . . . .
