pivoting frames and mounting campers

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Yes, a necropost...

I think it's pretty obvious what happened to Doug Hackney's frame. And since I just read this whole thread and didn't notice anyone else mention it, purely for the sake of getting as much into the archives as possible...I'll do it.

In the blue circle - no flex. Utterly stiff from both the frame extension/cross member and the (solidly bolted/unpadded/unsprung) forward mount of the 3-point (partially obscured by the camper jack).

In the green circle - flexible.

In the red circle - the interface between the two.

Basically the same effect as soldering a stranded wire - under flex (or vibration - same thing) it breaks at the interface.

There was the twisting due to the action of the suspension, and no doubt that contributed - but I think what really hurt it was the up and down bouncing due to the weight. I think that was also made worse by the long overhang rear of the axle, which increased the lever arm.


Beefing everything up and eliminating frame flex is one way. Floating above it and letting the frame twist all it wants is another...but mixing the two has to be done just right.

EDIT: Just remembered...

On the first version of Wotthehellizat, Gray had the frame lengthened - a LOT. I seem to recall, when I first read his build diary years ago, that he took it to some sort of welder who was a specialist in frames. Can't find it on his site now though. The point being that welding on a frame is not inherently bad - it just has to be done right.
 

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Amesz00

Adventurer
Looking at box attachment for the U500, I see a "disc spring" is at the front. Further back is the same attachment without the spring. This seems consistent with the advice here for those wanting a simpler attachment: Fixed at the back, with some 'give' near the cab. At least for the U500.
Mercedes hasn't engineered a pivot mount for the U500.
It's this approach or their four point quick release system that are official.


4204082453_95a26ca16b_o.jpg

thats very similar to how we mount bodies on the big MAN trucks, except solid mounted at the front (where the cab connection is) then floating on disc spring washers toward the rear. if you stack them all the same way there wont be enough movement, and they'll be too stiff for what you want them to do.
 

dhackney

Expedition Leader
Guys,

Sorry for the delay in responding, I've been working on other projects since our return to the U.S. and haven't been on the forum much at all.

I will attempt to address the questions and comments related to our Fuso FG and our experiences in batch form.

Doug



Yes, a necropost...

I think it's pretty obvious what happened to Doug Hackney's frame. And since I just read this whole thread and didn't notice anyone else mention it, purely for the sake of getting as much into the archives as possible...I'll do it.

In the blue circle - no flex. Utterly stiff from both the frame extension/cross member and the (solidly bolted/unpadded/unsprung) forward mount of the 3-point (partially obscured by the camper jack).

In the green circle - flexible.

In the red circle - the interface between the two.

Basically the same effect as soldering a stranded wire - under flex (or vibration - same thing) it breaks at the interface.

There was the twisting due to the action of the suspension, and no doubt that contributed - but I think what really hurt it was the up and down bouncing due to the weight. I think that was also made worse by the long overhang rear of the axle, which increased the lever arm.


Beefing everything up and eliminating frame flex is one way. Floating above it and letting the frame twist all it wants is another...but mixing the two has to be done just right.

EDIT: Just remembered...

On the first version of Wotthehellizat, Gray had the frame lengthened - a LOT. I seem to recall, when I first read his build diary years ago, that he took it to some sort of welder who was a specialist in frames. Can't find it on his site now though. The point being that welding on a frame is not inherently bad - it just has to be done right.


I think frame changes need to be engineered. Did Hakney's frame break because it was strengthened? Or because it was overloaded? I expect both. That stiffening and/or supporting created a hot spot.
One thing for certain with the lightweight FG is that one needs to live within a weight budget when designing and using.


Comments from someone who actually knows the truck! Most interesting.

One could speculate that it might have been exactly this kind of stress that cracked M. Hackney's frame. Was not his motocycle garage rigidly mounted?

The Mitsubishi is appealing to U.S. buyers as it has factory 4x4. I would note however, based on limited observation around here that:

-- The Mitsubishi is really a rather light weight urban delivery truck, with relatively small tires (7.50x16)

-- Thus the Aussies do a lot of work with wheels and axles.

-- With such a light frame, reinforcement might thus be the first goal, whether your final element pivots or not. Thus a "rigid" camper (See Michael Groves) might be a valid approach.

More free hot air on a slow morning. :)


Generally speaking, on single axle trucks that have the frame fatigue and break due to load, they break over the rear axle, or close to the rear axle spring mounts.

The second place the frame will want to break, typically, is somewhere close to the midpoint between the front and rear axles.

And these are the two areas that failed on that truck, first the rear axle area, and then the midpoint area was beginning to show signs of failure. That's the gist I got of everything anyway.


Not initially as I recall. He used the original frame with some lengthening when he built but I don't recall any strengthening until he had some frame problems. Weight on the other hand. . .






The Unimog does have a stepped chassis. It's stepped in a different way from the Fuso though - down instead of up, and it comes back up at the front.

Even on the FG, if you look at the video I made of my frame flex, you can see that there is very little side to side deflection due to the step.

I don't think we can use the frame failures of the Hackney truck and the Fuso Szulc as examples of why the 4 point mounting leads to frame failure. These trucks were both 3 point mounting which is very different and increases frame stresses by a minimum of 1/3 over the 4 point mounting. On the Unimogs the 3 point pointing is only allowed on the shortest wheelbase trucks, and even then the 4 point mounting is preferred.

I know everyone says the Unimog is "designed" for a torsion free mounting. But comparing my Unimog to my FG, I don't see what is different about the frame which would exclude a torsion free mounting. To me the frames seem to have approximately the same construction. As they say on the Unicat website "do other laws of physics apply to the Unimog?"

I'm not saying the 4 point mounting is the only way to do it, and it's not ideal for all situations. But if I had to choose someone to design a mounting for trucks traveling rough terrain, my money would be on Mercedes Benz due to their great experience and engineering resources in this field.


gait,

Not sure if you saw this video, I had it posted in my camper build thread:

http://iandraz.com/post/175161730/

Might be helpful.

Personally, I don't feel the lateral motion due to twisting is significant enough to negatively affect the camper. The truck frame itself isn't 100% rigid laterally, so it will likely deflect some laterally as it twists. And the pivots should be on rubber bushings which give some more flex. The 9mm you calculated at 5 degrees isn't very much, and factoring these in it may be even less.

Regarding the 3 point design - I think the Hackney and Szulc truck problems mentioned in the forum seem to indicate the 3 point design does not sufficiently distribute the load, which leads to frame problems unless the frame is heavily reinforced (e.g. AATREC-FG). Although the 4 point (diamond) design does not 100% perfectly isolate the camper from the frame torsionally, the frame is not 100% rigid (otherwise it wouldn't be flexing!). So it really is more optimizing the interaction between the camper and the frame to reduce stresses, than completely isolating the box. In my opinion the 4 point design is a good compromise which both distributes the weight and frees the camper box from excessive deflection forces.




As often happens with a long forum thread, many of the answers provided in the early posts are lost to the mists of time in the later stages.

Many of the answers to the questions / theories / speculations / etc. in this thread are in the first few posts of this very same thread.

In particular, as mentioned in the first few posts, information on our frame bend / break can be found in this thread: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24225

and in our trip thread: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=351745#post351745

Also in the first few posts of this thread you will find links to various Fuso documents, engineering drawings, etc. that provide info on the FG frame, our specific failure points, etc.

Upon our return to the U.S., I was asked by Michel and Ron to inspect Michel's FG frame and I did so. Michel subsequently requested that I not post the detailed results of my inspection. I can share that due to Michel's duplication of our 3 point design, he suffered the same types of frame bending, cracking, etc. that we did. He did not suffer the catastrophic frame rail break we did, but IMO, it would have happened eventually had he not had his payload suspension system redesigned and replaced.

As I stated in the first few posts of this thread, in the frame break thread, in our trip thread, etc., these FG frame failures were caused by placing too heavy of a load on only two widely longitudinally separated points on the stock FG frame.

The reason Carl and Mary Hunter's FG 3 point system worked is a) they had a much lighter load, b) the load points were closer together longitudinally on the frame and c) they pivoted at the front.

As pointed out in the first few posts of this thread:
  • Fuso FG expedition campers have been successfully designed, built and utilized without 3 or 4 point pivot systems (Don and Kim Green). http://www.questconnect.org/
  • Fuso FG expedition campers with 3 point pivot systems have circled the globe. (Carl & Mary Hunter)



I appreciate the curiosity and effort that everyone has put into analyzing our frame failure, including red, green and blue circles. However, the circumstances and series of events that led up to the break were a progression of events and not an isolated "take a pencil and..." type scenario. In addition, however well intentioned, red/green/blue "obvious" analysis is misleading when not fully informed, and our chassis had other factors at play beyond those mentioned in these snapshot / timeslice observations.

From the beginning, I have attempted to make our FG a completely open source project (www.hackneys.com/mitsu), and in that vein, I have endeavored to openly share any and all factors that contributed to our frame failures. Unfortunately, due to the nature of forums, where info is spread out across multiple posts in multiple threads, it can be very challenging to have a coherent, cohesive, encompassing understanding of something, including this chassis and this series of events.

I believe all the information regarding our vehicle, its features, foibles and failures, is available in the sources mentioned here. If you have any further or detailed questions, I answer emails every week about expedition vehicles and our travels, so don't hesitate to email me.

The short version is:
1. For FGs, listen to what whatcharterboat is trying to (repeatedly) tell you: suspend the load along the longitudinal length of the frame.
2. Listen to what people who are out there or who have been out there overlanding full time tell you. There is no equivalent in observational time to actual experience time, meaning no amount of speculation/shopping/web surfing/etc. equals even a month of real-world full-time overlanding experience.
3. Read the Overlander Interviews and listen to what their lessons have to teach you.


How many FGs have they done? Or at least the question should be > how many trucks have they done with a stepped chassis?

Jacob, the number of FGs we've built is well into triple figures. We never see frame failures as a result of body mounting. Some of these trucks are still in operation after 10 years or more and most of the trucks are absolutely pounded day after day in some of the worst conditions imaginable. These conditions are why most truck manufacturers come out here to do their initial testing of new models. Doesn't it even make you wonder just a little why we would never use a pivot mount on an FG?

The two recent frame failures (on Expo) using pivot mounts should not have happened . The owners in both cases went to extremes in terms of research, quality workmanship, materials, effort, attention to detail, etc, etc. First class construction, both of them and they should be praised for what they put together. There was just one fundamental flaw for which they can't really be blamed. They both appear to have had the same view of "If the Europeans do it with so much success on other trucks then it must be the best option for my FG too." Only thing is the Europeans aren't having successes with FGs yet.

I've probably repeated myself over and over on this. Apologies if I've offended anyone. Not my intention.



* * * * *​


I think Doug Hackney has posted in the past that MAN expedition campers have had problems with frame failures. If I'm right in remembering that, I wonder if these failures are related to pivot mounts in the same way that the recent FG failures are related to pivot mounts.


If my memory serves me correctly, I think Doug Hackney reported that some Man expedition trucks (in South America?) had experienced frame breaking problems.


The references to MAN are from an Overlander Interview here: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11983


MAN – Very good quality heavy trucks (class 7/8) (require special driver's license in Germany). Medium duty 4x4 MAN trucks sold to overlanding market have lightweight frames. Wolf has seen multiple examples of frame failures on MAN overlanding rigs. He strongly advocates a minimum frame size of 6mm.​


BTW, I interviewed Wolf about a month after we started our South America trip, our first travel by expedition vehicle (most other travel was/is by motorcycle). He was such a great guy, and brought up this whole frame thickness dimension several times, but in such a gentle, circumspect way. He could see, with clarity, what was destined to happen to the FG's 4.5mm frame, but didn't want to rub it in my still bursting-with-enthusiasm-rookie-overlander face. In retrospect, it was such invaluable wisdom delivered in a way only someone with 12 continuous years of overlanding could do it.



* * * * *​



James,
No - we never thought about that kind of an arrangement. When we first tried out the air bag setup, the the camper bounced around like a crazed bobble head doll. That is why we added the shocks to control the amount of movement. I am not sure that we could do what you suggest because of the way the plumbing is located. A camper like Oliver, Bigfoot ( if they reopen), or custom box with enclosed plumbing might work for that kind of arrangement.
As an aside, did Doug or Michel save the pieces containing the fractures? There is considerable information in those fracture surfaces.


I did save the pieces containing the fractures. There is an FG overland expedition vehicle attached to them. I'll sell you the fractures and you can have the FG overland expedition vehicle, and the two Honda 150s in the FG's garage, for free! :)


* * * * *​
 
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DontPanic42

Adventurer
I did save the pieces containing the fractures. There is an FG overland expedition vehicle attached to them. I'll sell you the fractures and you can have the FG overland expedition vehicle, and the two Honda 150s in the FG's garage, for free!
Don't tempt me. I spent 30+ years doing Forensic Metallurgy with a passion for Fractography. Finding out why things broke is a real kick. I wonder if Harbor Freight carries scanning electron microscopes. Guess, I'll have to pass. Thanks for the offer.
Bruce
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
That's all well and good Doug, but it's really not rocket science. Nor is it some new and uncharted territory.

Yes, that frame needs to be reinforced in such a way as to distribute the load along the entire length of the frame and to reduce flex substantially in order to make the suspension do the work as much as possible - while still allowing for a *bit* of flex. That's SOP for trucks - 4x4 or otherwise.

http://www.globaltrucksales.net/tr6x601.html
http://www.globaltrucksales.net/truckwater4000/100_6328.jpg
(As you can see, Michel had the right idea about springs - just not quite right.)


What I was pointing out - admittedly perhaps not clearly - was that creating a non-flexible area can lead to a break in a flexible frame. This is why simple welding is not recommended - it creates a hard spot that flexes less than the rest of the material.

The frame extension that you used achieved the same effect. It isolated the flexing to a smaller area - and that is, ipso facto, where the frame broke. The extra weight and front/rear rocking of the camper over the fulcrum of the rear axle of course compounded the problem. Even without the tweak from the winching, it would likely have broken in that same area eventually.


Gray welded his frame extension (IIRC, as I said it's been some years and I can't find it on his site anymore), and used a three point mount and didn't have a frame failure. It's not simply that his frame was heavier (so was the load), it is also that he had it extended in such a way as to not create an inflexible section which would confine the flex to a relatively small area.


The guy who built that ultra-beef-a-zoid sub-frame for Michel's truck was obviously clued in about truck frames, though I'm not so sure he really understood the whole isolated camper mount idea. He went for the totally rigid frame setup - which is fine as long as the sub-frame he built doesn't flex - but it if does, it's going to transfer that flex to the camper body. Maybe the soft mounts will fully absorb that flex and completely isolate the camper...hard to tell from the pics I've seen. I have my doubts. (He also should have used a layer of wood between the frame and sub-frame, and should have rested the weight of the camper on the sub-frame to squish it all together before drilling the mounting holes.)

I'm not sure that Carl's and Chuckwagon Bruce's rear solid/front pivot is the ideal answer either. The swaying of the camper will obviously cause additional twisting of the frame at the rear where the frame is weaker. This is probably mitigated somewhat by the twist occurring over a longer length of frame, but it still seems like a lot of potential twisting even with the lighter weight of their campers.

The wooden sub-frame under Basinranger's fiberglass pop-top is a work of art. Gorgeous. I'd love to see a detail shot of his top secret rear pivot.



One other minor point; Spending some time - even years - overlanding and discussing the subject with others who have done or are doing the same does not equal having spent a few years as a heavy equipment mechanic for a utility construction company. Some of us "armchair quarterbacks" may have seen - and repaired - more bent and broken heavy metal than our gentle friend Wolf.

You mentioned in one post that you know Glen Heggstad. If you've got a copy of his first book TWTT - you'll see my name there in the back on the page of the usual suspects. Feel free to ask him if I occasionally have a clue. (And he didn't escape, he was released into the custody of the Red Cross.)

Cheers, :ylsmoke:
 
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dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Furthermore...

Someone, probably on this thread, linked to this article:

http://trailer-bodybuilders.com/mag/trucks_tips_truck_frames/

Okay, let's assume for the moment that Toner knows what he's talking about. The last line on page one of the article says:

"He said reinforcements are popular because they're easy to put on. But “I'm not big on bolted reinforcements. If you weld it in, it'll be strong.”

(Translation for all those who think welding on a frame is heretical: Welding on a frame is not a no-no. It can be done, and it should be done - if it's done right.)


And on page two of the article, we find this:

"Toner's Frame-Splicing Commandments:

Don't go from stiff to flexible. Taper and stagger reinforcements."

Stay out of high moment areas or extend reinforcing to a lower moment area."


There's no mystery or voodoo or even esoteric engineering involved. The "complex chain of events" leading up to the final break is a red herring.

You violated Toner's first two commandments of frame splicing. Your frame broke. Easily shown with a couple of simple colored circles. All the rest is fooferall.


You want Open Source - fine. The whole point is to have a lot of eyes looking at the code and nailing down the bugs.


I should probably also mention that I did in fact read *everything* on your site, and study all the pics, as well as reading everything I could find on this forum about frame failures, and even dug through Michel's terribly hard to navigate blog - as well as checking a few other sources - BEFORE I spouted off.

And why am I so interested? Because I'm thinking of doing something very much like it myself and I figure I better know what I'm doing before I pull the trigger.

(And might I add that the mock up of an Airstream on a Fuso on your web site just absolutely gives me wood?)
http://www.hackneys.com/mitsu/photos/buildup_comps/image002.htm
 
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dhackney

Expedition Leader
dwh - welcome to the forum!

You mentioned in one post that you know Glen Heggstad.

That's fantastic that you know Glen. That serendipitous shared experience may help in this circumstance.

For example, you may know the names of the rivers and the elevations and lat/lon of the mountains and the weather patterns of all of Borneo. You may know exactly everything there is to know about 1994 Heritage Softail Classics. But can you imagine how it would go down if you asserted as fact your speculations as to what exactly happened to Glen on that road in Borneo?

In that case, as in my case, the generalities, even if correct, do not apply to the specifics.

In that case, as in my case, you don't know what you don't know.



I should probably also mention that I did in fact read *everything* on your site, and study all the pics, as well as reading everything I could find on this forum about frame failures, and even dug through Michel's terribly hard to navigate blog - as well as checking a few other sources - BEFORE I spouted off.

I admire your dedication and respect your passion on learning about overland expedition vehicles, and what it's like to design, build, live with, repair and maintain them.

This forum was created to feed that passion and provide as much information as possible to answer those questions.

It was also created, as was this thread, to provide a consolidated place for information about specific topics. In the case of this thread, I started it to discuss various ways to mount camper boxes / payloads on overland expedition vehicles.

You have provided your observations and opinions related to several vehicles, some of which I know intimately, some of which I've inspected at close range and some I don't know at all. In some cases your observations are correct, in others they are not. That's the difference between physically being there and not having the opportunity to physically be there. Not better or worse or sideways, but fundamentally different.

You also reviewed some basics of truck frame design, modification and repair, all of which appear to be absolutely correct in the general sense. You can learn more about those topics in the various body builders guides that are linked to in this thread and elsewhere.

I have no reason to doubt your field repair expertise for the very large trucks you link to as examples are the equal of any mechanic or welder I've ever met or utilized anywhere in the world.

It is useful, however, to keep in mind that no amount of welding back together broken Tatas or water bowsers will ever teach you as much about overland expedition vehicles as Wolf and John have already forgotten. They have individually physically inspected more overland expedition vehicles than you are likely to ever even see in your lifetime. The vehicles they own and operate (in Wolf's case) or built and tested (in John's case) have been to places and over terrain that again, you are very unlikely to duplicate in your lifetime. People like Wolf and John are the masters and it is conducive to success to learn from them rather than discount them.

Can you imagine the outcome if Glen had began his marital arts career by disrespecting the masters rather than respecting and learning from them?

So, when you set out to build your own overland expedition vehicle, certainly follow closely the guidelines in the body builder's manuals; utilize, modify and extend the ideas (good and bad) that you find in this forum and elsewhere; leverage the experiences of those who share their projects and their mistakes and, if possible, please share your experiences with those here on the forum.

In the meantime, please keep posting your opinions and observations. This forum would be a very small (and pretty boring) place if only those of us who'd been out there were posting.
 

1leglance

2007 Expedition Trophy Champion, Overland Certifie
once again I am impressed with your way of interacting with other Doug...

I recently had a chance to meet the guys importing the Bremach T-Rex into the US, and helped them make contact with Sportsmobile West....
Of course this got my brain going along the lines of putting a camper box on the back of either a 2dr or 4dr gas/electric hybrid they are selling.

I plan to go back and read through this thread and will have plenty of questions, especially since the goal would be to design a box that allows easy access to the truck cab and has an open floor plan.
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Can you imagine the outcome if Glen had began his marital arts career by disrespecting the masters rather than respecting and learning from them?

Let me see...can I imagine that? Why yes, I certainly can. According to you, Wolf repeatedly tried to gently let you know that your vehicle was going to break. But you weren't listening. I'd say that's a fairly apropos example of what you just described.


So, when you set out to build your own overland expedition vehicle,

"again"

I've done it before, quite a few times, but only on the "light" truck scale - from flat fender Willys all the way up to big blocks, duallies and Dana 60s.

But of course, you wouldn't know that since you don't really know anything about me other than your own assumptions.

For a while I've been considering sizing up a notch for the next one. Maybe. I just turned 50 and I really don't want to invest a year into any project (ever again), which is what makes the FG an attractive platform.

The camper I have now is a lot of fun, but it's just so....small...and...2WD. Better to get something bigger and let my son have this old thing.

I'm thinking I might more or less imitate what Carl and Bruce did, but with a sub-frame similar to Peter's (but with the pivot swapped to the front - rear solid, front pivot does make sense but the FG needs a sub-frame). Start to finish in 90 days sounds mighty good.

Oh, and your generator. I want one. That's really a beautiful generator you got for your rig. Seriously. I really dig that flywheel and oversized alternator. At 200 lbs it's soooo worth it.


In the meantime, please keep posting your opinions and observations. This forum would be a very small (and pretty boring) place if only those of us who'd been out there were posting.

Ahhh. The sweetly stated backhanded slapdown in the guise of the extended hand of friendship. It's such a rare pleasure to see it adroitly done.


Look, I didn't attack you. I pointed out that what happened to your truck is no great mystery. (And it isn't. C'mon, even you said that Wolf took one look at it and knew what was coming.) I'm sorry if you've taken that as a affront or feel a need to defend a position; but it is the nature of open source - a term BTW which you chose to use - you throw it out there and let people beat on it. Don't take it personally. We're all just looking for a better mousetrap.

One broken frame incident is more valuable than a dozen success stories.

Personally, I wish you'd just weld the bloody thing back together, strip off a the odd ton here and there, and get back on the road.
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
I have to take issue with this paragraph:
It is useful, however, to keep in mind that no amount of welding back together broken Tatas or water bowsers will ever teach you as much about overland expedition vehicles as Wolf and John have already forgotten. They have individually physically inspected more overland expedition vehicles than you are likely to ever even see in your lifetime. The vehicles they own and operate (in Wolf's case) or built and tested (in John's case) have been to places and over terrain that again, you are very unlikely to duplicate in your lifetime. People like Wolf and John are the masters and it is conducive to success to learn from them rather than discount them.

I'll grant that an experienced overland builder/fabricator will likely build a nicer, more serviceable RV, but the options in how they attach that box to the truck frame are no different than the options available to the mfg of the water tank. The water tank is a stiffer structure than an overlanding box, so as far as the frame is concerned the mounting choice is more important there than it is to the overlander. I challenge anyone to find an overland mfg who has been building such trucks for as long as mfg's have been putting water tanks on truck frames. Anyone who thinks that the terrain traversed by the water truck is nothing like that under an overlander really needs to go spend a day on a large construction site.

The truck frame really doesn't know or care whether it is a water bowser or an overlander. All it knows is how heavy the load is, and how that load is attached to it. If either mfg opts for a poor mounting choice/method, or load distribution the truck frame will pay the price.
 
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dhackney

Expedition Leader
you don't really know anything about me other than your own assumptions.

Again, welcome to the forum.

Nobody here knows anything more than your twenty-some posts reveal. If you want us to know more about you, then fill out your profile and/or start a thread on your experiences, interests, etc.

Expo has historically been a very welcoming place, with a remarkably high signal to noise ratio (due in no small part to the efforts of the mods).

But, you can't come on here with twenty-some posts and an attitude and expect people to prostrate themselves before you.

If you've built some vehicles, then start a thread on those builds.

If you've learned some things, then document them and share them.

Try dealing in the currency of experiences, facts and accomplishments rather than assertions about things or vehicles you don't have direct experience or knowledge of and you'll move from the troll-watch-list to respected and contributing member of the community very rapidly.



Don't take it personally.

Expo isn't a place to come and make your bones via assertions, claims or personal conflict.

It's a great place to come and share curiosity, experiences and knowledge about expedition vehicles. If you've got experiences, the community would welcome you sharing them. If you've got knowledge, sharing that is very good as well. Those things will build your credibility. The more you give the better it gets.

Making assertions and claims about events, vehicles and people you were not part of, have no experience with and don't know anything about just lowers your credibility. Getting spun up and wrapped around the axle just gets you ignored or banned.

It sounds like you might have lots to offer the community and may have a great build thread in the offing. Those would be wonderful things to bring to the table.

Try doing that.
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
DWH - Thanks for bringing this post back to life - I think it sort of stalemated without clear resolution. But Doug Hackney's the wrong target...how much more open do you want the guy to be?

None at all. His thorough documentation and open and extensive information sharing has been exemplary. No one could ask for more. Nor did I.


I read the entire thread through and 200 posts and no one was talking about that great big honkin' frame splice. So I brought it up. I pointed out how it was pretty obvious where the frame would stress with that type of splice - and I got (oh so politely) called a ************** whose opinion doesn't matter. And BTW, colored circles are cute but they don't mean a thing so go get a clue and then come back and play with the big boys.


Ouch. If I weren't such a mean old thick skinned flame proof SOB my feelings might have been hurt by that condescending crapola.

I didn't target Doug, nor did I disparage his abilities - he did it to me. The posts are there, anyone that wants to can read them...'nuff said.


I wish there was more info on how just how John & Co. have mounted a hundred odd boxes on rough terrain FG's without a single frame failure...

I know. And I'm sure when we finally do see how it's done we'll say, "D'oh! Why didn't I think of that?" Bloody paranoid secretive Aussies. You just know they're getting a good laugh out of our confusion.


Looking at the potential frame flex in the FG it's tough to figure out multiple mounts that sequentially deal with the changing flex amounts - The "captured spring" approach is fine but how do you design different spring rates & travel front to back short of trial & error - not an good option for us one-off build guys...

So we are left with
Pivoting mounts
Heavy stiff subframes that change the FG frame to one that doesn't flex
Boxes either stiff enough or flexible enough to get along with the FG frame flex.
"Captured spring" mounts
Some combination of the above...


I went with a rear pivot because there isn't much room over the raised frame section - to get enough articulation I'd have to raise the box floor several inches - or put a step in the box floor. A step isn't a bad solution but I wanted a simple box for building ease & so I could mount it on another flatbed if I wear out the fg... Knowing what I know now I think I could use a front pivot on my design, I think I've got enough clearance under actual conditions to do it. I'd still have to figure where to put the pivot point though...

Yea. The question I think is how much articulation should there be? It's an off the shelf commercial truck with a flimsy frame so I think the obvious answer is, "not much". Put a 14' delivery box on the back and it probably doesn't articulate a whole lot.

With the sub-frame you have, I don't think it really matters that the pivot is in the rear, plus you aren't loading the chassis up to max like it would be in commercial use. (Are you? Sorry, I don't recall if there were weights mentioned in your build thread.)


For my travel weight the rear pivot with the air bags distributing the load works fine. I have to be careful to keep the airbags at the right pressure - so the pivot carries some weight - I could make the pivot carry no weight load at all...to be just an articulator (if that's the word...) keeping the box aligned. If I had a full height box the rear pivot would have a harder time controlling the box movement. It's an experiment...

What happens when you increase the air pressure and take the weight off the pivot?


To keep the box movement as independent as possible from the frame twist I decided I wanted the pivot point to be at the "natural" pivot point when the frame flexes - at the back that was about the middle of the frame web. I have no idea if that's structurally important...

Seems like it would be important, since being too high or too low would cause the triangle geometry to (try to) change as the frame twists. The tip of the triangle would move left or right as it rotated around the "natural" pivot point.

Did I explain that right? I.e., the natural pivot point is at the hub of a wheel. Go up or down and you'll be at the rim. The further you go, the bigger the wheel gets. When the frame twists, the wheel turns. If the tip of the triangle is on the rim, it will move left or right when the wheel rotates (frame twists).

Could be compensated if the forward mounts had enough play to tolerate a bit of front to rear movement, but better to minimize the sideways displacement of the tip of the triangle the way you are now.

But that's just a guess without resorting to a CAD model.

And I still wanna see a pic of your top secret pivot mount. ;)


or if the pivot point (as determined through static frame flex tests) stays there under load & use. I couldn't visualize clearly the arc of the boxes movement at a front pivot with the rear rigidly mounted....If they moved in different arcs the box would torque - that was my thinking anyway. On a pop top, with the lower box cut away for the door there is limited stiffness at the rear panel so I wanted a truly independent mount.

Yea, I wondered if the pivot point would move once there was weight on the chassis and rear springs. I saw the ladder and t-square and it looked like a good way to locate the natural pivot point, but that was with the frame pushed up from the bottom rather than down from the top and I couldn't figure out if, or how much, it would change.

But then I realized it doesn't much matter. Up and down displacement of the tip of the triangle doesn't (try to) change the triangle geometry like side to side does, so as long as you were close (very small wheel) then it should be good enough.

With the pivot at the front, there would be less frame twist, so being off the natural pivot point (center of the wheel) wouldn't be as critical since the tip of the triangle would move less to left and right (smaller wheel). Plus the natural pivot point might be higher as well. (Maybe not, it's a bit hard to visualize.)

I wish there were better pics of Carl's setup so it could be accurately modeled. Could probably take a good guess from what pics there are.


It's interesting how design choices determine the path down the road in unexpected ways - I tried to lower the box many times - but the ability to mount commercial truck boxes to the underbed and still have decent ground clearance has turned out be one of the designs best features.

Yea, It doesn't look to me like you really have much in the way of COG issues, especially with the top down. The truck looks good as it sits now.


Start to finish in 90 days sounds great! I'd also love to ignore gravity at will! Peter

Carl Hunter did it. (Well...actually I think he might have paid someone to do it.) So it has been done. Once anyway. Blast...I don't want any more long projects. :(

Some places say he did it in 60 days, but he says:

"What is equally important, where time is of the essence, it was conceived, designed, purchased and on-the-road in 90 days."

http://www.travelvans.co.uk/id52.htm


I'm curious, have you had any slacking of the sub-frame crossmember long bolts? Had to tighten them up yet?
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Agreed.

The statement was in reference to field repair, not design and manufacture.
Curiously I thought design and manufacture was what we were all talking about in this thread. Design and manufacture intending to avoid the need for field repairs.
Field repair is what gets you home, however it does that. And is a whole different topic.
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
DWH - Had just that very thought...
I think the FG is a great platform - the confusion around pivoting frames and mounting campers is holding back the development of the FG in the US. The need to personally design your box mount is a pretty high barrier to overcome for a home builder. I found the design process fascinating & rewarding - but it was a challenging project...Frustrating to have this topic so unresolved at this date...

Yea, it is frustrating. I think the other main holdback is the low sulfur issue. I've been keeping an eye out for an older FG for that reason.

Another thing that bugs me is disk brakes. One would expect that by this time there would be kits on the market, but I haven't seen any, though I haven't really spent much time researching that part of it yet.


Maybe we should just all pool our funds and import an Aussie? We could try getting the bloke all liquored up. Maybe he'd spill the beans if we promise not to publish any pictures. :D

(Then again, maybe we could take him to the BunnyRanch and get him to spill the beans if we promise not to publish those pictures.)

I can say to eliminate the twist would require a lot of steel frame...plus the front would now twist freely against the newly rigid rear section...

Um...yea. Good point. Makes me wonder what effect that has on Michel's truck.


and your rough road traction would suffer...

That I could live with. Carl Hunter added a bit of spring lift and I think afterward he said another inch would have been better, so new springs would give some extra suspension travel.

I'm not too concerned about the rock crawling ability. I'm more concerned about getting stuck in the mud, getting high centered or bashing the tie rod. When I was younger, digging out, winching or straightening bent suspension pieces was just good clean fun. Playin' with the big boys' toys! WooHaa! Now...ugh. I'll do it if I have to, but I'd rather not have to. I no longer find that beating myself and my vehicle to death is as fun as it used to be. I just want to get where I'm trying to get to.


I haven't figured out if the FG is a urban delivery truck with a good set of 4 by 4 gear or if Mitsubishi designed the flex in. I haven't seen a quote from Mitsubishi - just web opinions.

Well, there is an article on the Fuso site that says:

"While it's also used by mining companies, power utilities, forestry agencies and farmers the new 4x4 Fuso Canter is primarily aimed at rural fire services. Australia is an important market for Fuso. Of the 1000 or so Canter 4x4 trucks it makes every year, some 300 come to Australia and most of those end up with the various fire fighting services around the country.
It helps explain why Fuso sent three of its engineers to Australia to spend time with the fire fighting services so they could see for themselves the extreme conditions their trucks are expected to contend with."

And also:

"After their visit to Australia Fuso's engineers went back to Japan where they replicated the conditions on their computers and found they needed to reinforce the chassis in a number of areas to better handle the tough going."

http://www.fuso.com.au/Docs/Website/Product/Articles/UtesVansDrivesCanter4WD.pdf

So, I think it's designed to be a capable off-roader, but at the same time I don't think it's really supposed to have extreme flex. Unfortunately, that article looks fairly recent, so I do wonder, when did this frame strengthening take place? I.e., if I buy an older FG, will it be a pre-strengthening model? It's may be an irrelevant question, since the article also says:

"The result of the engineers' work is a gooseneck chassis that steps down behind the cabin to lower the centre of gravity of the load and aid stability offroad. They also removed the front stabiliser bar so it didn't hamper offroad performance by getting hung up on obstacles the truck might have to contend with in the bush."

So according to that if I get one with the stepped down frame and no front sway bar then I'll have the "stronger" frame. Unless the writer mixed up two different things - first the step down, and then later a strengthening.



The highest scale weight so far is about 11,000 lbs (5000kg). So I'm not real heavy & I drive slow in the rough so I'm not asking the rig to do too much. If you can keep your weight down the mount issue gets easier...

Saves on brakes and bearings as well.


Well...nothing really - but I could tear the box off with the airbags...It's pretty cool - by changing the air pressure in the bags I can control the load on the frame & components precisely. Running the bags at about 16 psi gives me about zero weight on the front & rear mount - I run them @ 12 psi currently. This side to side linked air bag idea (bajaroad used it) allows the pivots/linkage/whatever to control movement & not support weight - I think the rigid rear mount front pivot/linkage would make great use of this approach - like Bruce's Road Hippo

I just had this mental image of your truck tooling down the road with the rear end floating up in the air because you over-inflated your airbags. :coffeedrink:


You said it better than I could...tied my brain up night trying to figure out how important the triangle geometry was...

Yea. I think it's probably very important...IF you use a triangle or diamond mount. There are other ways to go, and they might well be better. For me, I think the 3 point is what I'd likely go with for simplicity's sake if for no other reason.

(Unless I can get an Aussie liquored up.)


The issue pops up as soon as the box gets rigidly connected at any point. A full-flex-but-controlled mount was way beyond my abilities...

Well, from some hints that John's dropped I have a sneaking suspicion that Westyss has probably come closest to an Aussie setup. I just have a hard time trusting all those springs. Don't ask me why. Intellectually it seems like it should work well...but for some reason it just looks...I dunno...springy.



Off-topic but really neat...the electric Canter:
http://media.daimler.com/dcmedia/0-...614240-0-3842-0-0-0-0-0.html?TS=1290219389904
 
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