pivoting frames and mounting campers

Goingbush

New member
Thought you might find this interesting,


to be specific the rubber "strip" on the very left of frame is the a piece of conveyor belt I have glued on the front of my Aux fuel tank to fend off stones and rocks , check out how much it moves about, I was amazed when I saw this video I took today, just goes to show, you need to account for flex even on the short length of chassis that the tank is connected to. First pic below is original mounting, second pic shows spring to allow for flex (thanks to the poster earlier in this thread that gave me the idea) 25,000 km rough roads and the tank and mounts show no signs of stress (neither does the rear subframe and box body)
tank5.jpg

tank9.jpg


After seeing this I'll try to find somewhere to mount the camera to watch the subframe move as the chassis flexes !
 

Gatsma

Adventurer
Wow. Over the last few days I have gone thru this WHOLE thread, reading most posts, skimming thru Biotect's (his stuff gets DEEP!), and come away AMAZED at the knowledge one can gain here about mounting camper bodies(or bodies of any sort). Somebody ought to sort, edit, and compile this stuff into a book! Many minds at work here!
 

Gatsma

Adventurer
Has spring rate been discussed? I am curious what springs to run on the frame mounts.
If it has, it will probably be in one of Biotect's posts. I kinda skimmed thru those as he gets pretty technical, figuring i would get to them when I had enough time to thoroughly digest it. But there is a lot of good stuff here.
On thing I noticed being mentioned more than once was the use of old valve springs for mount springs. Any engine machine shop will give away old valve springs, as they are scrap to them.
 

Mundo4x4Casa

West slope, N. Ser. Nev.
jefe here. This is the second time in 3 years I've been forced into reading this entire thread. It is, and remains awe-inspiring. I've seen, firsthand enough of the 3-and-4 point diamond pivoting mounts for camper boxes and have a pretty good handle on all the derivations and 'covert' mounting styles. So, the following could be considered point-counterpoint.
I have taken a much more laid back approach to my XTC (extreme truck camper) using much of the physics of metal I learned from building quite a few off-road vehicles including rock crawlers. Pretty good articulation for a leaf spring CJ8: This is in the Little Sluice on the Rubicon,


1. I have a 2001 Dodge 2 series HO Cummins 4x4 short bed that I bought new as I had a feeling it would outlive me. So far, so good. It has the factory stamped and spot welded metal bed held to the frame tabs with FOUR, 3/8's inch bolts. Beats me. Must be the shear factor of the thin stamped bed. It sure has no torsional resistance. I have found that a short bed frame twists less than a long bed. I have found the Dodge Hydo-formed frame of that era, although not as good as the current frames, twisted a lot less than the frames of similar era trucks built by Ford. Subsequently, I beefed up the front and rear suspension by adding 3" lift coils in front and put together a homemade rear spring arrangement with 5 leaves on the main pack and 3 leaves up on the secondaries (overloads) giving me a pretty good ride while empty but a lot of load carrying suspension when fully loaded and or towing. It's good to note that I get a lot more flex out of the front coil springs than I do with the rear 8 leaf packs, loaded.
2. I bought a used 1998 Lance Lite, 165-s, hardside, wooden frame truck camper in 2001 and have camped, mostly boondocking for over 200 nights from Mexico to above the Arctic Circle. It weighs 1845 pounds, wet. Right away I was cognizant of the fact that if the four tie-downs were too tight, bad things would happen to the camper's wooden frame. Further, if too tight and on undulating roadways or trails, things would go south quickly. So, it was time to improvise, make do, overcome. The very first thing i did was to do what i could do to prevent the camper box from shifting in the truck bed. This is a no-no as it puts extreme tension on the tie-downs if the camper is skating around. Enter a quartet of Lance camper guides. I have seen much better versions of this recently, but at the time these were it.

I started to 'play' with the tie-down tension, loosening the rear pair to very loose when the axles started to twist up, and loosening the front pair to slightly loose. It's almost a Zen thing. You 'feel' the roadway and instinctively want to loosen the tension. Why that scenario? While using my four mechanical/manual jacks to jack the box up off my camper stands I found a lot more weight was on the front jacks and not so much on the rears. Hmm? If the truck frame twists, as it is want to do, if not tied down, which end of the camper would want to lift compared to an undulating frame and bed? The rears, of course as there is less weight. I have seen this action and am truly amazed at how unyieling the Lance wooden frame actually is. I can crank one jack all the way up, standing on 3 legs, and get no visible deflection out of the Lance frame. So, how has this constant twiddling worked out? So far, so good. On a recent XTC trip over some pretty rough jeep trails, I did my loosening but found the bottom of the frame had some concussion damage from pressing into the guides on one side. You can see a slight frame twist by comparing the camper box to the cab in this photo but that's about as bad as it gets. Also, the low side in this pic is the side that received the most concussion damage:


My fix was affix some long extruded aluminum L bars to the side/bottom of the camper box. This should spread the concussion out along the bar. Time will tell. Im also going to put rubber strips on the camper guides to mitigate any shock loading. I have the thinnest rubber bed mat I could find and it takes a lot to move the box at all, even if not tied down.

I know this is so damned low tech for many of you pivot junkies, but I'm pedaling as fast as i can to stay ahead of the dredded camper pull-apart.
In the end I try to avoid twisting up the axles as much as i can, and while I go looking for the off-road edge, I'm still sane enough to not go looking for trouble.
I live about a mile from the guy that owns XPCamper and have had some good talks with him. It was very difficult not to drool over the units he had 'in build' at his new giant facility in Grass Valley, CA. I could be swayed. And he uses pivoting frames.
Point-counterpoint.
regards, as always, jefe
 

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
If it has, it will probably be in one of Biotect's posts. I kinda skimmed thru those as he gets pretty technical, figuring i would get to them when I had enough time to thoroughly digest it. But there is a lot of good stuff here.
On thing I noticed being mentioned more than once was the use of old valve springs for mount springs. Any engine machine shop will give away old valve springs, as they are scrap to them.

I know several engine builders but it seems to me that if the springs are toast, they are toast. I usually love anything that has the word "free" attached but not if it is no longer functional. I can get the spring specs, (wire dia, # of coils and height) to figure the spring rate of new springs. That might get me in the ballpark but it would be nice to benefit from some first-hand experience. I am blown away by the amount of engineering/design analysis available on this site. The old Nike phrase comes to mind; Just do it!
 

Gatsma

Adventurer
Even though the springs might be "past their prime" engine-wise they will have sufficient compression for the purposes of springing a truck body mount, which ain't rocket science. If a bit too mushy, give the nut holding them a few turns. BAM! problem solved! Spring requirements for truck body mounts is NOT an exact science, guys. And if one should break, well, at the price you got them for, carry a spare or two. Don't worry, it won't throw off your weight OR center-of-gravity calculations. Just don't tell your friends...
 

Alastair D(Aus)

aging but active
spring rate

Papawheely !!!!!!!!!!!

Look at at posts by SkiFreak or go to his build web site at
http://canter4x4.com/

I am building a box on the back of an Isuzu NPS 300 - like a canter. I have used spring based mounts like Skifreak's but have fish plates (rigid plate) mounts at the back where there is essentially no twist b/n the sub frame and the chassis. This gives strong front/rear location. There are 3 spring mounts on each side. I used custom made springs that have 50mm possible compression at 20kg per mm. My initial loading is to compress the springs 15mm leaving 35mm movement for the relative movement.

How did I come up with these numbers? I looked at other trucks that had spring mounts, played with valve springs to see what they did, and then found that one company was using 30kg/mm on their mounts. I thought this was too high when you consider the loads at possible chassis/sub frame separations and went for 20kg/mm.

As said above none of this is an exact science and some playing around is necessary as well as backing your own judgement. If I have it totally wrong then something will break! I will then have more data to work with !!!!!! I have all digits crossed that I am not too far off.

cheers
Alastair
 

Goingbush

New member
Alastair,

Fish plates are actually an ADR requirement here, I didn't read the Truck Body ADR's until I'd almost finished building my box - I think they are really more to keep the subframe from dislocating in the event of an accident, but good insurance incase of a spring bolt fail. I have teflon (kitchen chopping board) on the sides of my fish plates incase of rubbing - but all good so far.

Ive done 12months touring now 36,000km and there are no loose screws or rivets and Im very happy with the subframe mounts on my Iveco 4x4 , On the front I used the standard Iveco spring washer packs and on the rear I used compression springs from Bunnings and its all working perfectly, have been over some very rough ground, there are no creaks, groans or thumps even when fully crossed up. The box on my Daily 4x4 dual cab is only 2.1m long . 2m wide so not as heavy duty as most of you are needing but if I was doing the job again, or even on a bigger rig I'd use the same method next time. Keep it Simple works for me.

Not sure if Spudboy has posted a link to his MAN 4x4 , theres a pic of his spring mounts on this page
http://daviddeere.net.au/dnnd2/en-us/Blog/Post/293 the top bracket has a hole in it (between the springs) there is a pin fixed to the bottom bracket , this locates the subframe making fish plates redundant - good idea !! there are a number of these spring sets along each chassis rail.

more here http://daviddeere.net.au/dnnd2/en-us/Blog/Post/260/Attaching-the-canopy-to-the-chassis
 
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pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
Thanks guys, excellent info. I will be jumping off, not just camping for fun. I would rather not go through a painful learning process if it's not necessary. That's what I love about this site, the wealth of first hand information. I worked in the engineering field for years and learned that real world results often differ from theoretical ones. I could "figure" a spring rate but without actual testing, it's still just an educated guess. I like the pin idea. That would be very easy to repair in the field if needed. My F350 frame twists like a wet noodle; its going to be moving a lot.
 

deminimis

Explorer
Quick question for the big brains on here. Looking at redoing my flatbed mounts sooner than later. I'll be using a setup similar to a M35 (springs and brackets (perches)). I've got that all pretty much dialed in (in my head anyway). My question relates to the rear attachments (left and right side). When looking at M35 schematics, it appears all that is used is a solid mount (brackets w/ bolt, no spring). At first I thought this odd, then I thought it makes sense as there really shouldn't be much flex at all at the rear of the frame as it is aft of the aft spring hanger. This rear m35 solid mount is the same regardless if it is a short of long cargo box. Don't have a M35 handy, so I can not verify this myself and I can not find a pic of the rear mount on the web. Sure would make things easier if I went this route at the rear. I was thinking I'd need a pivot at the rear, but doesn't look like it (if M35s don't need it, I think I'd be okay). Also, I will have a Superhitch Magnum hitch (4" cross tube) spanning the rear frame, so it really will be very solid back there. Thoughts? Thanks.


Here's an added bonus (in case the info is not already buried in here somewhere): The M35 part numbers for the inner and outer springs are 5360007372793 and 5360007372792. I'm starting with 8 pairs and I'll reduce from there if needed.


Well, perhaps I can answer my own question. I've looked at this pic several times (it's on here, there, everywhere), but never noticed the rear mount until now. Sure enough, it does appear to just be a solid mount (bolt and bracket) at the rear. Still, any input would be welcomed.

army+duece+dot+five+box_mounts+03.jpg
 
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