Was just looking at that floor plan and saw the swing away table and thought why not a rear entry with this design for a slide in camper have the two seats where they are and some kind of a swing up table over to one side if ya wanted to get out. then you could still put something where the original door is ....just a thought.Den
POD: Custom camper - design stage
- Thread starter pods8
- Start date
Just to be clear this is going on a flatbed, I don't really have any interest in building a slide in camper. I already have a FWC hawk and if I'm going to take the time/effort to build a new camper I want to reap the benefits of the additional space a flatbed would provide.
The table in my head right now isn't a swing away, it just folds in half (front to back) so one half the dinette can form a width wise bed while the other half is still seats w/ a table. Since this is ideally to accomodate family it would be preferable to be able to get in/out of the camper without disturbing the beds at night and also during meals.
The only rear door thought I had would be with a main galley down the center and single width dinettes on either side (facing front/back). Then shorter 2-2.5' counter tops on either side of the front with a foot pocket partially under them for when the dinettes are turned into single beds. However this creates a lot of through traffic as opposed to the other layout which is why I'm leaning towards that (also allows bike racks on the rear to remain undisturbed, etc.).
So another thought running through my head is about stealth camping / solo camping with the top down. On my current hawk there have been times I wouldn't have minded being able to access the faucet and stove to make a quick boiled water meal. I'm thinking the top down interior height on this will be in the 50-54" range and potentially a 40" counter height, so that will likely give me access to the sink (as long as I don't have cabinets on the topside coming down and covering it). Also it would give me access to the stove but not enough clearance to actually fire it up. I was curious for the stove if I used a partner stove (or similar) in a recessed box for normal cooking and then I could yank it out in these situations and use it on a short stand on the floor (and also the ability to take it outside).
Are there any combustion differences between the normal indoor propane stoves and something like a partner? Obviously with both some ventilation through the camper is needed.
Are there any combustion differences between the normal indoor propane stoves and something like a partner? Obviously with both some ventilation through the camper is needed.
Northern Explorer
Explorer
I don't believe there are any combustion differences. My thinking on firing up the stove with the top down is that the smaller the space you have the quicker that area is going to be saturated with carbon monoxide. The smaller the space the more ventilation you will need.
What I would do is cook with the top up and then just lower the top for sleeping when you want to stealth camp.
Just gotta crank up the fantastic fans. :sombrero:
I do that currently (top up and then drop it) but one less thing to deal with if I just wanted to make a hot drink during a rest stop or such.
Did a "rough" model of my truck and the potential camper exterior shell. Pardon the crude shaping and rendering of the images.
Side shot to show the overhang verse windshield. I want a wider bed that a full (48") but going to a queen (60") would really overhang past the window aerodynamics. Right now I could fit a 54" wide mattress but I might be a tad too long still.
Frontal shot:
Angled shot:
Another angled shot with the roof turned off. Door size/style is TBD, I just showed an opening for clarity that is where the door would be.
Side shot to show the overhang verse windshield. I want a wider bed that a full (48") but going to a queen (60") would really overhang past the window aerodynamics. Right now I could fit a 54" wide mattress but I might be a tad too long still.
Frontal shot:
Angled shot:
Another angled shot with the roof turned off. Door size/style is TBD, I just showed an opening for clarity that is where the door would be.
Not a ton new in terms of design wise going on for me, I'm just running various ideas through my head trying to refine things. I originally was thinking of just using stock 20lb propane tanks for their availability, familiarity, cost, etc. However I'm giving those clear view fiberglass propane tanks some more thought now, I didn't realize they were translucent at first and just though folks were talking about them for the weight savings only. Which wasn't justifiable for the cost in my mind, however seeing how much propane you have visually is pretty nice.
I got my test supplies in last week and got my first taste of working with epoxy and foam board to make up some core sample pieces, so far so good. Hopefully this weekend I'll get time to layup the fiberglass fabric layers over them to see how I feel about that work. Additionally I'm trying out two different fabric weaves to see how they lay up and each test pieces has a variety of different radius corners. Overall this should give me a good representation of what each fabric is capable of in terms of layup. I can then take that information forward in how the shell is designed.
From there I'll do an interior mockup to see how it really feels spacially, I'll probably utilize cardboard as much as possible to save time/cost/waste.
I got my test supplies in last week and got my first taste of working with epoxy and foam board to make up some core sample pieces, so far so good. Hopefully this weekend I'll get time to layup the fiberglass fabric layers over them to see how I feel about that work. Additionally I'm trying out two different fabric weaves to see how they lay up and each test pieces has a variety of different radius corners. Overall this should give me a good representation of what each fabric is capable of in terms of layup. I can then take that information forward in how the shell is designed.
From there I'll do an interior mockup to see how it really feels spacially, I'll probably utilize cardboard as much as possible to save time/cost/waste.
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Roaming Robertsons
Adventurer
I just ordered a 10# fiberglass/composite propane tank. I got the tall one since I'm more concerned about floor space than height. It'll be much lighter than the 20# steel tank to start, plus 1/2 the propane but plenty for a fairly lengthy trip (cooking only, no heater). I'll let you know what I think of it when it arrives.
Cool, I'd appreciate the feedback.
We were chattering designs of hardside pop-ups at WTW and one suggestion about doing a multistage popup set go my wheels spinning. Threw this together this morning to mull over, it required 2" more in vertical height to the cabover profile. However it provides an fully hardside design that is enclosed still in any extension position, a 38-40" tall door in the down position and a 10-12" flip up of to add extra vertical height to the door when the top is up. Still have the shorter door height like a FWC/ATC but might be worth living with that. Anyways more to ponder on:
Here's a rendering with the top all down. The door height will be driven by how high the cabover to flatbed is but it would be plenty big enough for ducking into the closed camper:
Then when the top goes up and exposes some more of the lower portion of the camper one could opt to have a shorter section swing up to add extra vertical height to the door. (Note the taller the cabover profile is the more height that can be recovered but I'm trying to limit that as much as possible).
Here's a rendering with the top all down. The door height will be driven by how high the cabover to flatbed is but it would be plenty big enough for ducking into the closed camper:
Then when the top goes up and exposes some more of the lower portion of the camper one could opt to have a shorter section swing up to add extra vertical height to the door. (Note the taller the cabover profile is the more height that can be recovered but I'm trying to limit that as much as possible).
That was my depiction of a 7'-6" long camper on a dodge ram shortbox ~6'-3" bed, the wheel base might be slightly off, I dunno. Should only be about 6" longer than my current FWC hawk which is 6'-8" and sits flush with my bumper (the extra few inches made up will be due to not having a front on the flatbed so the camper will be closer to the cab). Planning for all the heavy stuff (propane, water, fridge, etc.) to be up near the front wall.
Overland Hadley
on a journey
I have one of the Ragasco tanks for my camper build. I've been using it this winter with the Wave 3 in my studio. I check the propane level about once a day, it is still interesting to me to see how much fuel the heater is using. In a dark corner it works best to shine a flashlight into the tank to see the level.
When I ordered my tank this autumn they were still offering 10% off to Overland Journal readers.
Boonie Buster
Observer
Maybe this is what idea you're going for, but any thoughts on doing the expandable hardsides like carboard box flaps? Whether they be two pieces that accordian out or one piece that flips up.
-Aaron
-Aaron
It has crossed my mind (like alaskan campers setup) but there are a few things I don't like about the idea. The camper is open to the elements when its going up/down, also if when you fold the panels in during foul whether in which they may be wet/snowy you then have that laying on your bed/bedding. So I was thinking a soft liner on the outside of some sort would be needed still.
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