post your Suburban pics
- Thread starter roostercruiser
- Start date
Martinjmpr
Wiffleball Batter
bknudtsen
Expedition Leader
I believe that he has a coilover conversion and Kryptonite UCA’s. Pretty slick setup.
PGW
Observer
Martinjmpr said:
Need to do a build thread but here are some pertinent's:
2003 Yukon XL 2500 8.1L - current mileage 154,476 (just finished a 4,700 mile road trip)
Front Suspension:
Cognito 4-6
Fox 2.0 Remote Res Coilovers 6.5" travel with 700lb springs (a bit too light, gonna try 800lb next)
Kryptonite UCA
Kryptonite center link, tie rods, with custom spec Evolution Machine rebuildable tie rod ends
Custom mounted Light Racing Jounceshocks
Custom length 4340 half shafts set the tripod joint further in the cup for extra strength
Rear Suspension:
Custom spec Deaver leafs (sagging a bit too much and needs a little boost)
Fox 2.0 Remote Res shocks 8.5" travel - cut off stock shock mounts and welded on high clearance ones
Custom mounted Light Racing Jounceshocks
Drivetrain Mods:
Fleece Performance stub shafts for the front diff - eliminates the axle disconnect
NP241 swap with a SYE - the entire 4x4 system is now all mechanical
4:56 gears
Rear Truetrac
Tried to stuff a Truetrac in the front from a 9.5" 14 bolt but it would not clear the aluminum case, decided to leave it open rather than ARB it
Front and rear High Angle 1350 CV Driveshafts
Other:
Dual battery with secondary 12v system, uses a Blue Sea mlACR
100 watt solar panel where the sunroof would be
Bushwacker cutout fender flares from a similar year pickup
Front and rear bumpers built by me
Chassis Unlimited universal rock sliders
Have a few tweaks to make but over all not a whole lot is gonna change. And yeah, I was way over budget. :Wow1:
Martinjmpr
Wiffleball Batter
PGW
Observer
My truck (and 99% of Suburbans it seems) has the center console so I trimmed it to fit the shifter. I did have to cut, bend, weld a Z-shape into the shift lever to move the knob over otherwise it would rub on the center console. Didn't have any issues with the electrics, once you unplug the transfer case module under the dash it doesn't throw any lights. Then you just have to splice the speedo sensor from the new transfer case into the factory wiring (purple/green wires). I also had to ground out a pin on the transfer case module connector in 4-low (I welded a momentary switch to the shift mechanism itself) otherwise it wouldn't shift out of 1st gear in 4-low. Everything works great, with no front axle disconnect as soon as I pull back the shifter, I know 100% it is in 4 wheel drive. Some electronics I trust, but not these transfer case motors. Maybe newer models are better. Before I did the swap I would have intermittent problems where it would throw the Service 4WD message and wouldn't shift out of 2WD. Maybe it was just a switch or something simple but I wanted it all gone anyways for the peace of mind.
PGW
Observer
Thanks. I mulled over doing a SAS but decided to stick with IFS as most of the driving I do is highway and washboard gravel roads / forestry tracks with a few moderate wheeling trails thrown in. I am glad I stuck with it, it rides awesome over rough roads and is suprisingly stable and planted even with no front swaybar. On the highway this thing cruises great and eats up huge chunks of road, driving home from Nevada a few weeks ago I drove over 880 miles in one day single handedly, definitely would not want to do that in my ZJ.
Martinjmpr
Wiffleball Batter
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Looks great! I've been getting the "service 4wd" message intermittently, usually the first time I use 4wd after going a long time without using it. I have also had issues with it either not shifting INTO 4wd or not shifting OUT. In every case, though, turning the vehicle off, waiting a few seconds and then turning it back on fixes the issue.
mccustomize
Explorer
Your Yukon is exactly what I want to build next! If you ever decide to sell let me know!
Got any more details on the electric switch for your 4lo actuator? Myself and a few friends with solid axle swapped GMT 400s have been trying to figure out how to do just that, we've all grounded the pin to a toggle switch but I would love having one less step to do.
PGW
Observer
My original plan was to find a NP241 with a 3 wire signal switch as supposedly those have a 4-Low signal that I could use to ground the pin. The NP241 I found was a 2 wire case, so I bought a 3 wire switch hoping it would work in my case. Turns out the depth is all wrong on it and it wouldn't fit. So I ended up welding a nut to the shift bracket (5/8-11 maybe?) so I could thread in the 3 wire switch. I couldn't tighten it all the way as the switch body was hitting the bracket so I RTV'd and zip tied it into place so it wouldn't turn (pretty crude but its worked so far). Then I welded a tab to the shift mechanism itself and then welded an un-riveted nutsert that I had on hand to that tab so I could thread in a button head screw. On the 3 wire switch I used a multimeter to test the connections to find out which wires connect while the switch is depressed (I think it was the two outside wires), then you just connect one wire to a chassis ground and the other wire to the 4-Low signal pin. When you shift to 4-Low the button head screw (which is adjustable in the nutsert) depresses the ball in the switch which connects the 4-Low signal to the chassis ground. I don't have the part numbers on hand but I got the 3-wire switch and wiring connector from Rockauto I think. Everything else I just had on hand.
I took a crappy picture a while back that hopefully should give you an idea.
mccustomize
Explorer
I gotcha, seems simple enough. Thanks! I see you are in south texas????
