Powdercoat Armor or Rattle Can?

[ntsqd]

UV does reduce it's life. POR's literature clearly states that it needs a UV resistant top coat if it is going to be exposed to sunlight. Top coats appear to stick the best if applied while the POR is just tacky enough to leave a fingerprint w/o leaving paint on you.

 

[jg45]

What about using some sort of spray on or roll on bedliner. That stuff has to be durable and I kinda like the textured look of it on bumpers.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

We just powder coated a full size roll cage we just completed. Turned out awesome and the PC is including a rattle can of the material. Doubt it will work well but it is for touch ups. I think inside is definitely a good idea. On the fence about outside. Think there are benefits both ways. Personally I'm going galvanized

A cheaper substitute for POR-15 is called Zero Rust. Works really well particularly with the cheap Harbor Freight HVLP spray gun. Cleans with I forget the kind of thinner, but you use it for truck beds and they sell it at home depot. Some people swear buy it more than POR-15, particularly in the hotrod forums. If you want UV durability buy their UV cover spray which locks in the UV. Even with both, cost per paint is still significantly lower than a rattle can (or POR).

 

[Michael Slade]

rattle can

You're more likely to touch it up and really protect it from rust than hesitating spraying on top of powder coat.

I've done both...rattle can for me from now on...especially on things 'underneath'.

 

[adventureduo]

I would powdercoat something as large as a bumper vs. spray painting say something like a underbelly skid plate that gets hit a ton.

 

[Haggis]

Powdercoating doesn't hold up out here in the rust belt, especially anything that is coated out west. I've been told by the local powdercoater that they use a different formula out west than back east here. I've use POR-15 alot on my hot rod and on our manufactoring equipment when we had the sawmill. It's extremely durable, but you have to start with a well prep surface, free of scale and well cleaned of grease and oil. Then you have to scuff it a bit then apply a top coat to get the best life out of it.

 

[The BN Guy]

I rattle canned mine for a couple of reasons - it's cheap; multiple coats can be pretty strong, very easy to repair, and oh yeah, it's cheap and I can do it myself.

 

[Jacket]

I would powdercoat something as large as a bumper vs. spray painting say something like a underbelly skid plate that gets hit a ton.

I agree. It shouldn't take as much abuse as your sliders (except maybe the underside), and you can always touch up the powdercoat with rattle can if you like.

Another option is the rattle can with the hammered finish. Easy of spray paint coupled with the "look" of powdercoat.

 

[Willman]

I'm a Captain Kryon man.......easy to fix....and don't have to spent all your hard earned mod $$$$$ on something that is hard to touch up........

As far as big projects like bumpers......not a big deal.......You just have to spend the time in prep........

My 2 cents Wil.......

 

[The BN Guy]

Now maybe you guys can change my mind but...I've had Line-X'd equipment, I've had powder-coated equipment, none of them held up to some serious rock scraping. I was told several times to go back and have it repaired. That takes time and it wasn't too close to the house so out came the rattle can.

 

[ntsqd]

The best I've seen, so far, at dealing with abrasion has been POR, when properly applied. As an example, when you need to remove it for welding it will clog a 24 grit sand paper disc and sand blasting it takes a long time too. Abrasive removal of it just isn't the hot ticket.
The UV factor doesn't look to be much of an issue when on chassis parts & skidplates.

 

[BigAl]

I've used Rustolem Oil based semi gloss quite a bit . For bumpers, I roll it on with a sponge roller and touch up with a brush. It is kind of self leveling so the finish can be really nice. It holds up 10x over rattle can. I did my first yj bumpers in safety yellow 6 years ago, I just redid them in black and there was no rust anywhere.

 

[Super Doody]

For front and rear bumpers, i would powder coat them. For sliders and other armor more used armor, I'd just rattle can it.

 

[IZZYDUSIT]

Powder Power

Just sent the m416 tub to get powderd.. resist dings and rust like nothing else.
I picked the silver vein hammerd finish and it also should hide the body imperfections-I will post pictures as soon as its done.
as for the frame ...silk finish, black rustoleum baby.
I have found out the semigloss finish to show imperfections and runs more the the silk finish.
my .02 cents

 

[articulate]

I've used Rustolem Oil based semi gloss quite a bit . For bumpers, I roll it on with a sponge roller and touch up with a brush. It is kind of self leveling so the finish can be really nice. It holds up 10x over rattle can. I did my first yj bumpers in safety yellow 6 years ago, I just redid them in black and there was no rust anywhere.

Hey, that's impressive. Good tips.