east_tn_81
Adventurer
Agreed
Project "Autonomous" F-350
- Thread starter pappawheely
- Start date
Agreed
98dango
Expedition Leader
The 460 is not all that bad. Yes they suck stock. My 1993 f250 needed a motor when I picked it up so I had a buddy go threw and he he changed the pistons and did head work made the world of difference. I can Find out exactly what he did if you would like. I never got 15 but could hold 12/13 towing my 4 runner.
seanpistol
Explorer
I recently saw a 7.3 motor in the local classifieds out of a wrecked truck with 125k on it for $1500. I was looking around because I almost picked up a 95 ext cab that somehow had a blown 7.3, D60 swap, ZF-5, and no bed for $800 sitting on some guys farm. I was real excited until someone bought it out from under me at the last minute.
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
I didn't want to bring this up until I figured it out but I have a quiz for you mechanical types. I had a cooling issue. The truck would idle at normal temperature but once on the freeway it would overheat bad. New aluminum radiator, new thermostat, new hoses. Can you guess what the problem was?
AFBronco235
Crew Chief
Could it be your water pump? Like its not pushing the water around like it should? I'm not as familiar with the Ford big blocks, but that's the only other thing I can think of. Unless you just have a faulty sensor?
HuskerTrev
Observer
Sounds to me like you have an air pocket in the system. If you run the truck at idle with cap off you can massage the upper radiator hose to burp the air out. Sometimes takes ten or fifteen minutes to get all of the air out. If you have an air compressor you can get an airlift system that mechanically pulls a vacuum on the cooling system to do the same thing.
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pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
Yes, I checked all of that and was really stumped so I called Champion Cooling Systems where I got my aluminum radiator. I told them all the issues and wondered if the radiator had a blockage. They took the time to listen to me without getting defensive like most companies do nowadays. They did some head scratching and told me to check a couple of things. They said to run the hose through the radiator. The flow should be the same in as it is out and it was. Cross the radiator off the list. I had already checked the water pump, it was moving the water. Next, they said it might be the lower hose. They told me to try and see if the lower hose was collapsing when the truck was at high rpm's. I had removed the factory heat exchanger to rid myself of the possibility of a failure taking out my engine. What you are left with is a factory hose that looks like a pigs tail, (it came on all the non heat exchanger 460's) It's ridiculous, who designs something like that? Anyways, that factory hose is stuffed in there so tight it was bending and at high rpm's the suction from the water pump was collapsing it, starving the engine of water. I replaced the hose with some silicon rubber pieces and some aluminum tubing that won't collapse. I bled the air out, double checked the new thermostat, I never knew anything like that was even possible. I can't thank Champion Cooling Systems enough for stepping up and helping to solve my cooling issue.
edlaffoon
Adventure Every Day
First off excellent truck and I love the camper concept... every time I turn around someone has me wishing for a pickup but once you go convertible threes no going back.
I've seen a lot of radiator hoses collapse like that. Mainly cheap Chinese crap parts stores sell these days... even short runs like under 18". I also saw a jerry rigged turbo intake do the same thing on a big turbo swap once, again cheap material hose.
Glad you got it worked out though, it would not have been my first thought.
I've seen a lot of radiator hoses collapse like that. Mainly cheap Chinese crap parts stores sell these days... even short runs like under 18". I also saw a jerry rigged turbo intake do the same thing on a big turbo swap once, again cheap material hose.
Glad you got it worked out though, it would not have been my first thought.
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
I saw your thread when I started looking. After searching around, it was the best part for the money so I went with them too. I like nice things but am pretty tight with my money. It's nice to find a quality part at a reasonable price. The great customer service is icing on the cake! You guys have helped me with my build so many times without even knowing it.
DetroitDiesel
Adventurer
This is a hotly debated topic that will rage on for years. I am fairly young (32) but I am a Diesel Engineer at Detroit as well as my father and grandfather 30 years a piece. I own a 6.9, a 7.3idi Banksed, a 7.3psd, and a 6.5 Detroit in a Chevy. I just bought a 460 because for one gas is cheaper and parts are cheaper. The torque only comes into play under 15-20 mph and at altitude when towing. When you factor in maintenance and repair costs a diesel will never see the ROI unless you tow for a living or maybe you travel a lot doing your photos but its about 2.5 to 1 on a new engine cost diesel to the 460 and the newer diesel is eating the older motors so when you factor in all that I think the 460 is a better option. Unless you spend a lot of time idling around in 4low and towing grades at altitude the 460 can be made to get 10 or 11 with the manual. A supercharger might help you get 1 or 2 better mpg. You can get a fully built 460 with 500hp and 600tq for 4500 and a used supercharger about 1200 and thats still cheaper than a cummins or PSD. A idi motor would be pointless and going backwards from the 460. Its a great motor but not for this application. My new 460 truck came with Hedman headers and the smog removed I'm still calculating mpg but its not better than 10 but I have a heavy foot. Try getting a ecu out of a 95 non-Cali also that might get you a bit more efficient.
Im going to check into these radiators you are talking about and the hub balancers and the springs. I wasnt going to lift it because a 350 is able to clear 35s stock but I want fresh springs. I like a lot of your ideas with cooling things and am going to duplicate a few things on my build. Good luck and great work.
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
Thanks for sharing your insight. I figure it would be too costly to convert my truck to diesel. I am looking to add some efficiency to my 460 through better breathing. Another benefit of gas is when you get way out in the boonies. Gas is still more readily available in the sticks than diesel sometimes. I have been in a few towns in Northern Nevada with only one pump and it was gas. On the subject of springs, I fit 37's with no lift and just a slight fender trim in front. The benefit of Atlas Springs is the ride quality not clearance. Words don't exist to describe how much better the truck rides with the SORD shackle reversal and Atlas Springs. The factory springs ride like a padded brick. I learned quickly to get your foot off the clutch when you see a bump coming with stock springs; that and duck your head. :smiley_drive: I can go at a good clip in the dirt now, I don't have to slow down for pebbles in the road.
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Seabass
Idiot
Pappa- I comment from time to time about my gas burner and desire to put an oil burner under the hood. I have a good buddy that runs a shop locally and was the head mechanic at a local ford dealership for years. He's a ford nut. I questioned him one day about putting a 7.3idi in my truck or possibly even a 7.3 Power Stroke. He said it would be an awful job unless you had a donor truck sitting right beside the receiving truck because a BUNCH of stuff had to be switched to make it work factory. He told me it would be far easier to put a 12v cummins in than a factory type diesel. Then he said "Stupid, why don't you just go buy a truck with a diesel already in it!" I think he is right. I've about give up on swapping a diesel into my gas truck. And I completely agree with DetroitDiesel- gas motors are a lot better value. Don't get me wrong- my old powerstroke truck has a lot more power and is easier on fuel but MAN parts are high! Everything on that motor costs $500 minimum! Even the radiator cap! (Sarcasm) Just messin- I've had several diesels and they are over rated from a cost stand point of view. Headers, good exhaust, good clean air in, maybe a good aftermarket ignition and a gasser is not that bad. I had a 302 in a f-250 once that you'd swore was a 351. Besides- excess power breaks parts quickly and when your miles out in the bush who really wants a busted drive line, blown tranny, or some other disabling breakdown. With power- I believe you don't need any more than you really need. I know this because I had a 600hp cummins in a dodge. Something was always broke. Now I'm in the "nearly bone stock truck club!" I still love your build and look forward to seeng your improvements. Each one addresses a specific need- and makes your truck even more useful. I'm actually considering your shackle reversal- mine are wore slap out on the diesel truck. I already bought new factory shackles- but I may not use them. I'm just not sure I want it any taller. Oh well- red neck problems 
pappawheely
Autonomous4X4
Today I committed to 1/8" wall 2x2 aluminum angle for framing the interior structure and began building the bed frame. The uhaul box has aluminum runners that are glued and screwed to the FRP walls. I am going to keep them and tie my structure into them. I read on another thread that once you remove those, the walls lose a lot of structure. I figured I would stick with aluminum for that reason. Also looking to shave as much weight as possible. Tomorrow I will get some photos. The box is still on the original truck because the lift is occupied with another project.
Wish I knew if wheel wells will be needed before I get the interior done but I will just have to plan for it and leave some space in case I need it. Also tried to install new brake lines in the front. The banjo fittings were too big. They are supposed to fit 90-98 f350. I have rebuilt calipers; maybe that's why they are different. Called Skyjacker and they are shipping out the right fittings free to me and no questions asked. That makes up for the jumper cables I bought at Amazon. My mistake, I did not notice they were aluminum cable. Going to use the wire for main battery power to the camper and want copper. Had to pay for return shipping.
Wish I knew if wheel wells will be needed before I get the interior done but I will just have to plan for it and leave some space in case I need it. Also tried to install new brake lines in the front. The banjo fittings were too big. They are supposed to fit 90-98 f350. I have rebuilt calipers; maybe that's why they are different. Called Skyjacker and they are shipping out the right fittings free to me and no questions asked. That makes up for the jumper cables I bought at Amazon. My mistake, I did not notice they were aluminum cable. Going to use the wire for main battery power to the camper and want copper. Had to pay for return shipping.
