Project "Autonomous" F-350

[Seabass]

So is the box already sitting on the truck? Or are you just doing some early stuff before it gets mounted? Not that it matters, I guess. I'm just curious. Bummer about the brake lines. Also- when you did your front shackle reversal did you do the drop pitman arm and track bar drop bracket? That conversion looks fairly affordable till you start adding all the other crap to it. Maybe I should re-read your thread cause I'm sure you covered it- but it just seems easier to ask at this point.

 

[pappawheely]

No Seabass, The box is still mounted to the donor truck. I need to use the hoist to get the box off and it's tied up with another car build, (not mine). I'm going to build the camper and then move it onto my truck. I learned a lot on this site about mounting boxes on a frame. http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...s-and-mounting-campers?highlight=pivot+frames Going with drop-out spring mounts.

I have the trackbar drop bracket and a dropped pitman arm. The shackle reversal only lifts it 3" but that is enough to give you a little bumpsteer. You might be able to live with it but it's better to have your geometry right.

 

[Seabass]

Pappa- I've listened to you crow about how glad you are that you did the flip and springs. It's got me thinking I need to at least do the flip. I already have two pairs of skyjacker leveling springs on mine. But after I replaced all the rear springs and then put add-a-leaves in them as well, the back is still taller than the front. It sure rides bouncy. I'd like to change that. I wasn't sure if it was enough lift to warrant the extra parts. Sounds like I better go ahead and sell a cow and get all the right pieces. I appreciate the help.

As far as the box- that's the best of both worlds. I didn't realize you had the donor truck in possession. That will be sweet- you'll be close to ready to use the box when it goes on the beautiful blue beast!

 

[pappawheely]

You may be ok without the drop parts, I think 3" is right at the limit where you might get bumpsteer. As long as it goes the same direction every time you will be fine, LOL. I have the three inches from the reversal and another couple from the springs. That's why I had to have them. The donor truck has a few goodies on it that I will use like the mirrors and the big gas tank. It was a big help having it here when I had to replace my vacuum lines. Unfortunately, the lines on the Uhaul turned to dust in the process of tracing them. When we are done, we are going to convert the uhaul to a flatbed car hauler; it's still a good running F350 dually.

 

[pappawheely]

Working on the box a little but was interrupted with some business that needed to get done.

1. Here is a shot of the rails that are attached to the inside of the box and the beginnings of the bed frame. The open space underneath the bed will house the toilet, water tank, plumbing, and slide out kitchen



2. The rails are glued and screwed into the FRP walls.



3. I cut some spacers to fit in the channel.



4. I bolted the 2x2 aluminum angle through the channels. During final assembly I am using lock nuts and bonding it all with construction adhesive.

 

[Greggk]

subscribing.....

 

[pappawheely]

Sorry for the crappy cellphone pics (android). More structure done today. I tied the 2x2's into the top aluminum box corners on both sides. Riveted and bonded. The bulkhead is 12" wide. The space between will house the on demand water heater, electrial panel and some kitchen storage.





I had to remove some of the uhaul rail to make room for windows. I used it to strengthen the 2x2 rail that goes across the front. Aluminum is expensive, nothing goes to waste. I have been researching insulation options. The roof is domed so I am leaning towards spray foam. I think I will find someone to provide a quote. I might shut the phone off tomorrow to get some work done.

 

[java]

Looking good! Can't wait to see it done!

 

[akmedic77]

Liking your progress after reading the whole thread! Love the older body style Super Duties!

 

[pappawheely]

I have actually been working on the camper box but too busy to get any shots. Out in the dirt today, shooting time trials at Henderson 250.

 

[rayra]

Speaking of gotcha cooling issues for somebody working and driving in the desert, what are your plans for cooling that box? roof-top RV AC? Passive solar vent fans? Ducted trailer vents? You'l at least want some passive vents high and low like a double-hung window in a pre-AC house. Especially with your bed being near the ceiling. Might even be nice / neat to have a skylight over your head. Lots of nice boating models for that.

Henry products has a real nice white roof coating product that will help with the solar insolation problem. 'Solar Flex' -
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Henry-4-75-Gal-287-Solarflex-White-Roof-Coating-HE287SF871/100051140

They also have a metallized aluminum coating product that claims a 20F reduction in interior temps
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Henry-4-75-Gal-555-Premium-Aluminum-Roof-Coating-HE555019/100094951


Another easy and inexpensive alternative would be a fitted silnylon awning / tarp, some standoff stanchions into pocket mounts on the corners of the box, allowing a 6-12" standoff from the roof would shade the box from the blistering sun and allow an air space to further insulate. When parked of course. Visualize it as a trampoline on the roof, in appearance.

 

[rayra]

105 CFM, 12V DC native, 250mm dia computer cooling fans. A couple mounted at the roofline, high on the rear wall, would vent the hot air right out of that box. And no power loss via inverter inefficiency. They basically draw 1A / 11 watts

http://www.xoxide.com/xoxide-250mm-case-fan.html

 

[pappawheely]

Excellent links, thank you rayra. I have a solar powered attic fan that is made from 4 tiny fans. I was planning on running the four in separate corners of the truck venting through roof vents. The box will have one bulkhead wall but I am leaving a gap at the roof to allow air to circulate. I will need a vent to draw cool air in; maybe something that opens and closes so I can draw in cool air from under the truck. The roof of the box is aluminum. It heats the box up when it's in the sun. I was definitely going to put some type of coating on top and insulating it from the inside. There will also be three solar panels mounted to the roof so I have to keep the heat from them in mind too. I will be off the grid and don't want the weight, expense or trouble of running a generator. I won't have enough electrical power for any kind of ac until someone invents a better mousetrap.

 

[rayra]

Cool. Good part with the solar panels is that the panels themselves can put your roof in the shade, so some strategic placement of them might help, say over your bed. Or whatever other portion of the ceiling you want to keep cooler.

Insulation, like mylar / radiant barrier -coated 2" rigid foam, would help, but it will also heat and retain that heat for as long as it took to get it in there. Keeping the sun off the vehicle skin from the outside would work better. But then again the insulation will come in handy in the winter months. Especially in the deserts.

Had another idea for the fans, a pop up vent like the sort of roof-mounted driving lights on some baja racers. Down position, the hatch flap seals shut on the roof. Up position, that flap is vertical and the hatch is sealed from the inside by a same-sized panel filled with your fans. Same draw latch on the inside ceiling could hold the L-shaped fixture in either position. Some appropriate rubber gasket / seal on both faces of the opening in the roof. Rig it right and have the fan up position close the circuit and activate the fans. Simply opening the fans into position turns them on.


as an aside, I've been sketching out a set of home-made silnylon awnings for my Suburban project, a large pair of trapezoid-shaped awnings that can be arranged on both sides of the vehicle, or at right angles around the side and rear of the vehicle, or put together off the same side as a larger hexagonal shape. Along with them, I want to make a vehicle shade that is deployed over the top of the vehicle from the front corners of the grille guard all the way back to the rear roller on the roof rack. Suspended shade for the vehicle itself. And it can be doubled over and used as a travel cover for stuff stored on the rack when on the move. It's what led to my suggestion for the 'trampoline' idea.


eta - I also just recently finished insulating my aluminum garage door with mylar-coated 1" rigid foam insulation, real easy project and the easiest least messy way to work with the foam was using a long serrated carving knife, like you'd use for carving a turkey. Goes thru styrofoam like butter on the draw stroke, very little mess. Stay away from sawblades, they just tear tiny bits of material out and cast it all over. The knife cleaves.

 

[TheViking]

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