Ram vs. Chev vs Ford (3/4 ton)

thethePete

Explorer
^ Very cool. Like I said, I figured they existed, I just hadn't seen them.

I do agree, goosenecks are superior in most ways. I would probably do the same if I were ever in that stage of my life.
 

zb39

Adventurer
Id loose it and go for a goose conversion.

Get your bed space back and be able to hitch and unhitch on something other than flat ground :ylsmoke:

I have the 5th wheel prep. This hitch comes out with ease, turn the 4 handles and it is loose. The bed is completely clear then. I need that so I can then slide in my Arctic Fox 1150.

I had a turn over ball system on my 2011. It is a great system to get a clear bed, the factory puck system is better in that it is faster to clear your bed. No grease on hitch, I use a disc on the pin box. Very popular these days, no one I know uses grease any more. I don't need flat ground to hook or unhook, lots of movement left and right, and fore and aft is built in to the hitch. B & W builds good stuff.
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
Yeah, sorry but there is no way Id ever recommend that over a goose and turn-over.

Your RVK3600 weighs more than 100#

The base is listed at 131 lbs alone.

No way, no how would I ever want to have to remove such a heavy setup just to use the bed, when I could just pull a latch and turn a ball over.



A 5th wheel setup like you have is enormous

companion-3600-in-ram-new-logo-web.product.jpg


vs a goose:

install-draw-tite-hide-a-goose-gooseneck-hitch-2006-dodge-ram-pickup-9464-35_644.jpg



Im talking about when towing you gain an huge amount of bed space back as well.

A goose takes up very little space and bed is still usable when towing.

16TDI_TTNdp035.jpg
 

wirenut

Adventurer
Be careful with all these proposed GN conversions. Many FW trailer manufacturers won't warranty their frame if you use a GN adapter. The added leverage of the adapter puts additional stress on the pin box, so they say. I've head many people say they would never consider buying a FW trailer that's had a GN conversion done because of the risk of hidden frame cracks behind the skin of the camper.
I know, there's lot's of them out there. But, how many are developing cracks? I don't know.
 

boxcar1

boxcar1
Not to mention the amount of structure that must be added to the truck chassis below the bed to properly install a good neck flip down hitch.
Not a task for the faint at hart. All of the additions must be to factory spec and or dealer approval or your warrantee is void.
NO WELDING IS ALLOWED to the frame of the truck. All fixtures must be bolt on. Any welding must be done off the truck , then installed.
Having installed both style hitches over the years I'd recommend using the style that you are most comfortable with. Both work well.
By the way . I have an F 350 with a hide away goose neck hitch. A 95 to be exact. When installed we found it easier to remove the bed, then make the chassis mods and reinstall the bed.
Not all gooseneck conversions require that amount of effort to install but some do.
I chose the gooseneck for one reason . I rarely use my 5th wheel . It's a car hauler. And was built as a gooseneck trailer.
Yes the gooseneck may be easier to hook up severely off angle , I wouldn't know . I'd never be dumb enough to drop my 35' 5th wheel in a spot where I'd have to test that theory.
 
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IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
Interesting to hear about MFG not liking a GN.

Good to know. But silly. Maybe they should build a better product (the trailer mfg) :coffeedrink:




There isnt much hardware to install for the GN.

Hardest part is removing the bed. Which is a snap for a pickup, especially a newer one. Just a few bolts, fuel filler, etc.

Zero modifications to the truck. Hitches use existing holes for attachment.

So, remove the bed, bolt in GN hitch, replace bed.

Talking about leverage, a 5th wheel puts much more leverage on the truck than a GN.

So where do you want it, truck or camper? :sombrero:

Still, Ill always go for a GN. Especially if the camper will be off the pavement, ever.

BW-Slide-1.jpg
 

boxcar1

boxcar1
You are forgetting something Idasho . The factory bed mounts are rubber cushioned mounts. Your hitch pictured lock's the bed isolators out.
Ending up with a solid ridged mounted bed. NO factory WARRENTEE. Ford Chevy or Chrysler. As do most old style 5th wheel hitches.
Most rv owners don't have a hoist large enough to lift a bed off a truck. I do . And it sounds like you do ( or have 4 or 5 good burly friends with nothing better to do) but most don't.
And depending on the truck you may have to drop the tanks, which on some trucks are suspended from the bed. It' just not as simple as you try to make it seem.
If you pay to have it done , get ready for a large bill. No reputable shop will pull a truck bed for under a grand. That's not including the hitch , bed modifications and wiring just the labor to remove and reinstall the bed.
As to the trailer manufacturers and there warrantee. Who knows?
If the trailer wasn't designed with allowances for the added torque at the neck , I'd shy away from the conversion.
As I stated earlier my 5th wheel was designed and built as a gooseneck.
And no Idashow the over bar 5th wheel hitch design actually spreads the torque to the truck frame better than the gooseneck you picture. It has a larger foot print and a much wider bolt pattern there by reducing the torque by spreading it over a larger aria..........:coffee:
 
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IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
??

Bed isolators?? Beds use bolts, not body mounts. There is no rubber.

What bed have you seen on rubber mounts??


Seriously, it isn't that bad and loads of DIY'ers do it in their driveway.

And it doesnt take "4 or 5 burly friends"

Most pull size beds are in the 300-400lb range.

3 dudes are plenty. Been there, done that.


But really, complaining about a bit of work like removing a bed?

You'd think this was some gardening forum, not ExpoPortal :D
 

boxcar1

boxcar1
All truck beds use isolators . You have just shown your hand .....
You may call them rubber mounts or blocks but in the industry they are known as isolating blocks. And yes , bolts run through them.
Without them the bed suffers stress cracks as the frame flexes. I thought you had done this before????????????
I do this for a living dude. You have no idea what you are advising others to do.
And yes, 3 strong guys can lift a truck bed . Hell 2 really strong guys can probably do it . Does that make it a smart idea????? I think not.
The bed has 4 corners IE: 1 man per corner = no dropped bed or crushed fingers.....That you have to then explain to your pissed off client or your friends equally pissed off wife....
Come on man , I thought you wanted to go into the business? Your going to have to start thinking things through better if you plan on being a success.
1 destroyed bed could cost you the entire profit margin of a small build . As well as your reputation.:oops:
 
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thethePete

Explorer
A gooseneck does not in any way alter the way the bed is mounted to the frame. I have installed, and uninstalled more than one. You unbolt the bed, cut a hole in the middle, bolt the gooseneck frame to the frame of the truck, put the bed back on and bolt it down with the original bolts. No modification to anything other than punching a hole in your bed.

Also, some trucks use isolator pads, some do not; and there are different types. That's not something you can generalize.

Most trucks rated to pull with a gooseneck or 5th wheel have provisions in the warranty about modifications or aftermarket parts, specifically hitches.
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
All truck beds use isolators . You have just shown your hand .....

Whats your problem? Seriously?

I asked you for ONE example of what bed uses your isolating blocks and this is the response?



Fine, how about you prove it.

Show me a link to a "isolating blocks" that are used in today's light duty pickups.



Just one.

Id really love to see them.
 

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