Range Rover axles on Series IIa

[Toy-Roverlander]

Yes, I fully understand now.. Sorry guys, you were all right...

Too bad, I thought it was a nice idea...

Now it's going to get a bit more expensive.

I'll have to call that driveline shop to see what they can do for me.

Thanks for the advice/warning!!!

 

[Toy-Roverlander]

If I get a double cardan propshaft made, is there a problem with mounting the double cardan joint to the diff instead of the output flange?

The uni at the output flange hardly has an angle in it, so it wouldn't make sense to put the double cardan there.

Normally, on a D2 the double cardan is at the output flange, and than the shaft angles down towards the diff where the single uni sits with a near 0degree angle.

My situation would be exactly the opposite. From the diff flange it will angle down (as the diff nose points up, but the shaft lies horizontally) and than run straight to the output flange.

I don't think there's a problem with this. Am I right?

 

[Yorker]

This might be a dumb question but why didn't you use the BJ42 axles?

 

[Snagger]

If I get a double cardan propshaft made, is there a problem with mounting the double cardan joint to the diff instead of the output flange?
I don't think there's a problem with this. Am I right?

No - no problem, and yes - you're right!

 

[muskyman]

gone

 

[muskyman]

gone

 

[Toy-Roverlander]

No - no problem, and yes - you're right!

That's good news. I already thought it would not matter at all.

This weekend, hopefully, I'm going over to this guy who runs a shop that does all custom stuff with Land Rovers. Spoke to him today and he think he can help me with this one, but he wants to have a look at the Landy first before saying it can or cannot be done.

Quite funny when I told him that I can't use a D2 propshaft, then he said I should get the output flange as well. Then when I said I couldn't because of the Toyota gearbox you got this 3 seconds of silence before the 'ooh' :sombrero:. Quite funny..

If the DC joint also hares the same dimensions, you could replace that yolk too, giving you a DC prop that will fit. It's worth a close look.

You can't replace the yolk as far as I know. That one too has got something on it to help out with the centering of the H-bit of the double cardan. Otherwise you get that problem you described, it falling down under gravity or centrifugal force

This might be a dumb question but why didn't you use the BJ42 axles?

No such thing as dumb questions.

I didn't choose for BJ42 axles for the following reasons
- Availability. It's hard to find any axle for a LandCruiser here, let alone a RHD one. I was lucky that the Rangie I found happened to be RHD as it came straight out of the UK. I had it for peanuts too.
- parts prices. Compare the prices for Toyota parts and Land Rover parts. Especially as for most of the stuff you would have to go to the Toyo dealer..
- I don't like the fact that the swivelball is welded to the axlehousing on a Yota axle, if the ball is stuffed what are you gonna do?? With the Rangie it all bolts loose, replace and bolt it back together.
- Discs front AND rear.
- And now I have a matched braking system. It's all from the Rangie, M/C, booster and pressure regulator.

That's why :sombrero:

 

[Toy-Roverlander]

Here, on these pics you can see at what angle the front prop is.

 

[Snagger]

as willy wonka would say.

"dont stop come back"

no you can not mount a DC with the DC at the diff ...thats no how it works.

a DC shaft is desinged to divide the toatal angle at on end of the shaft and ALL THE ANGLE NEEDS TO BE THERE.

the spec for a DC shaft is 0*-3* at the diff and all the rest of the driveshaft angle at the driven flange end. Thats at the transfercase.

for every degree at the pinion more then 3* there will be a 10% service life decrease.

so if you are running 5* angle at the diff then you would have a 20% reduction in service life on the diff end single u-joint.

also the driven flange and the drive flange must be in line. so the pinion must be in line from side to side with the transfercase output flange. once again the 1*=10% rule applies.

there is some great infor on 4xshaft.com that will show you in a diagram what I am talking about.

The point is that you use the DC end of the shaft where there is the greatest angular deviation, and in Koos' case, that will be at the diff end.

 

[muskyman]

gone

 

[Snagger]

you can swap the end yoke at the diff to make it fit, they both use a 1300 series u-joint.

you can not swap the yoke end that connects at the transfercase because the end yoke on the DC end of a DC shaft is also integral to the centering bearing. the single cardan shaft will not have the centering bearing part on its end yoke.

Fair enough - I thought the linkage only passed through the "double yolk" between the DC spiders, but I've never looked that closely.

 

[Toy-Roverlander]

ok

looks like you will be ok because you have less then 3* at the transfercase.

yes you will be able to run a DC backwards in that application...its far from standard but will work.

Awesome!

I was a bit confused about the last couple of posts. Turned out I missed the posts from Muskyman. Those must have been posted when I was typing my last reply..

Anyway.
So I can't use a D2 propshaft, unless I fancy making another adaptor, which I don't. Yokes can't be swapped so that's not an option.

I'll see what that guy has got to say who I'll be visiting this Sunday, hopefully, if his wife lets him go to the workshop :bike_rider:.

It is indeed far from standard, having the DC at the diff end, but hey, if it works... why not.. I'll just make sure I'll keep them greased.

 

[Yorker]

No such thing as dumb questions.

I didn't choose for BJ42 axles for the following reasons
- Availability. It's hard to find any axle for a LandCruiser here, let alone a RHD one. I was lucky that the Rangie I found happened to be RHD as it came straight out of the UK. I had it for peanuts too.
- parts prices. Compare the prices for Toyota parts and Land Rover parts. Especially as for most of the stuff you would have to go to the Toyo dealer..
- I don't like the fact that the swivelball is welded to the axlehousing on a Yota axle, if the ball is stuffed what are you gonna do?? With the Rangie it all bolts loose, replace and bolt it back together.
- Discs front AND rear.
- And now I have a matched braking system. It's all from the Rangie, M/C, booster and pressure regulator.

That's why

ok fair enough-:sombrero: Over here the situation is somewhat different (IMHO)- Toyota parts are pretty cheap, rear disc brake swaps aren't too difficult and the axles and diffs are definitely stronger than the RR stuff but the RHD issue would still be a problem...

 

[Toy-Roverlander]

ok fair enough-:sombrero: Over here the situation is somewhat different (IMHO)- Toyota parts are pretty cheap, rear disc brake swaps aren't too difficult and the axles and diffs are definitely stronger than the RR stuff but the RHD issue would still be a problem...

To be honest... If I were living in the US, I would have most likely be driving a SOA 60 Series LC :Wow1:

I miss my old 60, it was great :smiley_drive:..

 

[James86004]

Wow! Your front drive shaft is almost flat compared to mine! I will have to take a photo of mine to compare, but I worry that I need something better than u-joints.

Here, on these pics you can see at what angle the front prop is.