VanIsle_Greg
I think I need a bigger truck!
How about midget clowns rewiring an auto transmission?
The trifecta of creepy right there...
Rango.....1942 Willys MB
- Thread starter Metcalf
- Start date
The trifecta of creepy right there...
jeepdreamer
Expedition Leader
Thanks for the invite... I'll take you up on that someday. Funny, my Scrambler came from the western slope as well. Snowmass originally but i picked it up in Glenwood Springs. Sure is pretty out there...need to find some land to build my house on...
And thanks for the appreciation... I do this job because I love it! Sometimes its a lil boring but having the ability to put lead to head while keeping our country safe is an honor to me. Just hope the country can get back on track.
Funny, my Scrambler came from the western slope as well. Snowmass originally but i picked it up in Glenwood Springs. Sure is pretty out there...need to find some land to build my house on...And thanks for the appreciation... I do this job because I love it! Sometimes its a lil boring but having the ability to put lead to head while keeping our country safe is an honor to me. Just hope the country can get back on track.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Some more pics of the full float conversion ( I tore the other side apart tonight)
Here is what an early CJ5 Dana 44 rear axle looks like with everything stock removed....
Bolt on a simple aluminum spacer. The bore on the axle bearing pocket is smaller than the locating feature on the spindle. You CAN turn down the spindle to work in the stock bearing pocket, but I didn't want to have to use modified spindles in the rear. So this spacer has a step on the back that is the same size as the stock bearing race and a counter bore on the front that will allow you to bolt up a stock front spindle ( and just about any 6-bolt spindle ). It also makes the rear axle the same width as my D30 open knuckle front.
The spindle just bolts right on, no mods. This is a stock front spindle, but I will be changing it to a yukon big bore spindle that will allow a 30 spline shaft to pass through.
A front axle bearing hub goes on the spindle just like stock. The rear axle will have identical brakes to the front.....
They will look like this. Everything is identical front to back with the brakes since everything goes on the outside of the spindle. The bracket goes on the front of the spindle....and the brake rotor slips over the bearing hub just like the factory drum did.
I also started trying to figure out a cool design for a fuel tank.....
I think I am going to do a tank with this profile behind the seats. I think it would use up the least space, keep the weight forward, etc. I'm thinking about having Boyd welding build the tank.....
Here is what an early CJ5 Dana 44 rear axle looks like with everything stock removed....
Bolt on a simple aluminum spacer. The bore on the axle bearing pocket is smaller than the locating feature on the spindle. You CAN turn down the spindle to work in the stock bearing pocket, but I didn't want to have to use modified spindles in the rear. So this spacer has a step on the back that is the same size as the stock bearing race and a counter bore on the front that will allow you to bolt up a stock front spindle ( and just about any 6-bolt spindle ). It also makes the rear axle the same width as my D30 open knuckle front.
The spindle just bolts right on, no mods. This is a stock front spindle, but I will be changing it to a yukon big bore spindle that will allow a 30 spline shaft to pass through.
A front axle bearing hub goes on the spindle just like stock. The rear axle will have identical brakes to the front.....
They will look like this. Everything is identical front to back with the brakes since everything goes on the outside of the spindle. The bracket goes on the front of the spindle....and the brake rotor slips over the bearing hub just like the factory drum did.
I also started trying to figure out a cool design for a fuel tank.....
I think I am going to do a tank with this profile behind the seats. I think it would use up the least space, keep the weight forward, etc. I'm thinking about having Boyd welding build the tank.....
jeepdreamer
Expedition Leader
Lookin' good....Did you ever think of machining a set of grooves (inside and out) into the aluminum spacer to add an "O" ring? That may keep leaks away without needing to try silicon between the parts?
reece146
Automotive Artist
Looks good.
What were you planning on using for seal between the aluminum and steel bits? For my set up I tried using RTV but could never get it to completely seal and spent a lot of time futzing to try to get it to seal. In the end I made paper gaskets. That sealed first go. I forget the thickness used - the thinnest stuff they had at my local NAPA.
Thanks for mentioning the Yukon thirty spline spindles. I'll look into them for the C8.25/D44 floater I'm building for the MJ.
What were you planning on using for seal between the aluminum and steel bits? For my set up I tried using RTV but could never get it to completely seal and spent a lot of time futzing to try to get it to seal. In the end I made paper gaskets. That sealed first go. I forget the thickness used - the thinnest stuff they had at my local NAPA.
Thanks for mentioning the Yukon thirty spline spindles. I'll look into them for the C8.25/D44 floater I'm building for the MJ.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
I was going to make some gaskets or as mentioned maybe stick in some o-ring grooves if I can find that tool for the lathe.
The spacers where 'free' scrap from work, its 6061 so I am not complaining. Its easy to machine and more than strong enough I think....
You can also use regular GM front axle spindles ( the 19 spline outer version ) that will take a 30 spline shaft. With the yukon spindles you have to use the jeep hub. For me that works out pretty well, but there may be stronger options for a larger vehi
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
yup, its one of the things I really wanted to do. Having to use the larger bore Yukon spindles for for the 30 spline rear flanged shafts kinda threw a monkey wrench in it, but I will be able to retrofit the front with the same spindle and just use a 27 spline outer axle in front and stock jeep locking hub. As long as the wheel bearings and brakes are the same at all 4 corners ( and all autozone type parts ) I will be pretty happy.
postalWagon
Adventurer
X2 on the locking hubs.
jeepdreamer
Expedition Leader
I like the idea for the hubs on the rear if you plan on towing this thing a lot. For simply trail duty I'd be more inclined to run drive slugs and maybe some "dummy" locking hub covers for show. That would eliminate the chance of blowing up a hub on the axle you use most. Then if you had a problem you could pull the cover, remove the slug, and run just like unlocked. Just my thought.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
There are NOT going to be hubs on the rear axle. I went back and forth on this and after doing a lot of research I decided that hubs or drive flanges in the rear would not be strong enough. Most if not all Jeep locking hubs your going to find are only going to be a 27 spline connection at best....unless you change the bearing hub for an internal spline version. I am going to do a rear axle like is basically just like every 3/4 and 1-ton full floating axle on the planet.....not to mention stuff like the FZJ80 rear floating axles. The flanged floating axle is VERY strong and simple.
Then there is the issue of cost. Double spline'd axles are more expensive AND you have to pay for the drive flange or locking hub.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
I like the idea for the hubs on the rear if you plan on towing this thing a lot. For simply trail duty I'd be more inclined to run drive slugs and maybe some "dummy" locking hub covers for show. That would eliminate the chance of blowing up a hub on the axle you use most. Then if you had a problem you could pull the cover, remove the slug, and run just like unlocked. Just my thought.
I have a trailer, I will not be flat towing it. If I had to flat tow it for some reason I can pull the rear shafts right out through the spindle.
A flange style floating axle is the strongest option I feel.
Jeep 6-bolt style 27 spline hubs are not known for being the strongest units.