Rango.....1942 Willys MB

[Metcalf]

After my big trip....what worked, what didn't, what needs improvement?

Overall I was pretty dang happy with how the trip turned out. I only had minor issues over the 2500+ miles that I ended up covering in 2 weeks.

-More cooling capacity. In some sections, especially once where the temp was approaching 90F and I was trying to maintain 'highway' speeds the jeep would get hotter than I would like. Now, I think the highest temp I saw was about 205-210F. That makes me a little nervous but it wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be.

I think I need to upgrade the radiator to something different and probably change the electric fan system for the new radiator.

Getting more hot air hot from under the hood would also be a good thing. I have an idea for a cool looking little vent in the hood that I want to try.

-The rear full float conversion is leaking a bit. I need to add some seals on the axle I think. I have some super flexy seals that I think I can mount in the full float spacer if there is an area on the corresponding section of the axle shaft to turn into a seal surface.

I added some gaskets between the axle flange and bearing hub during the trip. This helped a lot but most of the leaking in on the spindle to bearing hub seal. I just don't know if those can contain gear lube like your normal full size truck floater axle.

-Rear locker. I need one. It wasn't THAT bad without one, but having a rear locker would help. I want a selectable one. I am still leaning toward an ox locker for the mechanical simplicity. I just need to save up the funds for one. They are not giving them away.

-Alloy front axle shafts with the bigger 297x sized joints would be good insurance. Just need to save up the funds.

-An aluminum bikini top. The flapping of the fabric top gets annoying. I think I am just going to make a custom aluminum version that LOOKS kinda like a fabric one. I might be able to integrate a mini-roof rack for extra light weight last resort gear capacity. It would be nice if it was strong enough to stand on too. It probably gives me a good excuse to buy that TIG welder.

-More power would be fun. Its pretty fun as is, but who doesn't need an extra 50hp or so? I would also trust a new engine more. It would be nice to built it to be able run 3000-4000rpm all day without issues. I wouldn't run it much faster than 3000 rpm but it would be good insurance. The existing motor returned mileage in the 15-19mpg range so I was pretty happy with that for big huge clown tires and 5.38 gearing.

-On board air. I need to do something. I think it will be electric at this point. The 12V Puma compressors are pretty impressive. I just need to find some hidden space for one somewhere......

-Steering stabilizer. I don't really have THAT many issues but I think it would take a little shake and pull out of the front end.

-Engine oil pan, transmission, and transfer case skidplate. I need to build one.

 

[Metcalf]

Looks like a fun trip! BTW, what happened with the front wheel bearings? Also, do you think you just need to re-seal the front adaptor/transmission or do you think the leak will require a more surgical repair?

The outer bearing on one side was a little dry and had some grit in it. It was squeaking like crazy. I don't think it would have failed, but looking at it and repacking it was good insurance. It was also good for my sanity on the long road sections.

I don't know for sure what the leak on the front of the transmission is. There is a square o-ring in the adapter plate that i think is leaking. It isn't bad enough that I won't wait till I pull the motor for replacement to fix it.

 

[Metcalf]

Just an update after my 2000+ mile trip.

The carb is working pretty freaking dang well. I am a FIRM believer in the mods I have done so far. This carb works very very well all around. During my snow wheeling adventure I was running for hours on sidehills and angles that probably should have given me fits if anything was going to. I had NO issues with the vehicle sloped any direction. It was kinda surprising really, I had expected to have some issue running old 1960s technology but never did.

The new top cover gasket along with having one of the vents blocked and the other extended and restricted seems to be GREAT for getting these 2100 style carbs from sloshing out raw fuel down into the engine. The fuel bowl setting is still set WET using a quarter for level from the top of the fuel bowl. I think these mods are doing most of the work. The 2100s have the jets in the bottom of the bowl and I think that really helps also.

I have been running a slightly richer idle mixture lately. I think that helps with low end stall resistance perhaps. I have been running in the 12.5-13.5 range. Its hard to tell the difference since I have signifigantly lower gearing with the 5.38s now, but I think it helps.

Using the wide band gauge I tried to keep the main cruise ( 10-15" of vacuum ) circuit in the 13.5-14.0 range. I went slightly richer or leaner at times but generally tried to keep it in that range. Power was decent and didn't seem flat. I think if you lean it out too much it feels a little flat before the power valve circuit comes on, perhaps a power valve that opens slightly sooner would be a good thing. In general my power valve circuit is still too big though and the engine is running in the 10-11:1 range under full throttle most of the time. I need to get something figured out to jet the power valve circuit.

Over the entire trip the elevation range was 11,000+ to a low of 3000-2500 I think. My leanest jetting was 46/47. My richest jetting was 49/49. A full jet change size makes over a full point difference on the wide band....like from 14.5 all the way down to 13.5. I made a lot of half size jet changes by only changing one jet one size. That was about a 1/2 point difference.

Temperature makes a pretty large difference on air fuel ratio, much more than you would think, even with the engine always sucking air from under the hood at full engine operating temperature.

If you want to be old fashioned and/or cheap and run a carb, spend the $170 on a wide band gauge. It is a big eye opener.

I think the wideband and jet changing paid off. Over the trip the engine was pretty consistent in returning mileage in the 15-18mpg range I think. I don't have a speedo so I used the route mileage from google and/or gps mileage. All in all I am pretty happy with that and my big stupid knobby clown tires and deep 5.38 gears without an overdrive. My 'happy' speed on the road seemed to be about 52mph at 2700-2800 rpm. That seemed to allow me to be kind enough to the engine and keep the motor above 10" of vacuum when cruising so the power valve wasn't coming in.

 

[postalWagon]

Steering stablizer is a must in those things, after driving them stock. It can get kind of scary with out.

 

[EricM]

Ok so I figured it out. Metcalf, that's your name right? The is an area in Smokey mountain national park called "Metcalf Bottoms". I kept reading your username and wondering why it was so familiar.

 

[Metcalf]

Steering stablizer is a must in those things, after driving them stock. It can get kind of scary with out.

Oh its not that bad. I have been driving it for a few years now without one. It is only in certain situations that the wheel can get a little jumpy. It is mostly when in road sections that are very wallowed out or have ruts. Not a big deal, space is tight, I will see if I can get one mounted in there.

Ok so I figured it out. Metcalf, that's your name right? The is an area in Smokey mountain national park called "Metcalf Bottoms". I kept reading your username and wondering why it was so familiar.

Yeah, my own personal national park As far as I know the family was mostly in the west.

 

[postalWagon]

I have seen behind the axle set up, good for tight spaces.

 

[Metcalf]

I have seen behind the axle set up, good for tight spaces.

Interesting, but I can't imagine how that would work with a forward mounted tie rod?

 

[LR Max]

Interesting, but I can't imagine how that would work with a forward mounted tie rod?

You could mount it directly to the knuckle on the back side (assuming you have an extra eye to mount to).

 

[Metcalf]

It's just your normal D30 CJ knuckle. No extra arms or ears.

I don't think it would fit on the rear of the axle anyways with the axle going so high in the chassis. The engine would probably get in the way

Honestly, a steering stabilizer is WAY down on the list of things I need. I have driven it a few thousand miles without it now, its not a super big deal. On certain kinds of road sections I can see it helping but honestly I doubt its going to make THAT big of a difference.

 

[Metcalf]

Here is a short video of my little fun fender working a technical section on one of the mountain passes...


Please excuse the power steering belt working overtime. I ran out of room for adjustment before the pump pulley hits the inner fender. I will have to swap to a shorter belt to help the issue. The tires where at 2psi and the front end is locked......

 

[Metcalf]

Another bad attempt at some video from the trip. I really need a GoPro or something. The sound isn't great so turn down the speakers...

 

[Anthony24x]

I just finally made it through this thread after about 4 days! Thank you so much for documenting as much as you did you gave me tons of ideas and inspiration! One question those leaf spring brackets you made to get the u-bolts and nuts out of the way... How thick was the steel and how are they working for you?

 

[Metcalf]

The angle was 3/16" or better. I think the bottoms where 1/4 or 5/16. I really like them so far. I have about 2 years on them now without any issues. It really seems to smooth up the bottom of the axle with a SUA which I really think is worth it. SUA flat works, especially in lower stance applications. Axle control is just SOOOO much better than SOA and you don't have to worry about stuff.

 

[Anthony24x]

Honestly I don't understand how you did such amazing work with such bad lighting! Walmart sells really inexpensive fluorescent lighting!