Rango.....1942 Willys MB

[Metcalf]

Out with the old....

Notes:

-I only had one pain in the *** mistake. I had one motor mount bolt in backwards that got trapped between the drivers side exhaust down pipe and the mount. I had to unbolt the mount from the block, and it was still a pain.

-$40 engine tilty hoist thing for the win. Best money I have spent in a LONG time. With it I was able to pull the engine, transmission, and transfer case as one unit.

-Having the Y-pipe bolted to the engine was really nice. It just comes out with the engine as a unit. A little more clearance on the drivers side would have been good.

-If I was going to do it again I would make the motor mount towers a little different for a little more room. Maybe they would unbolt from the frame for a wider space or maybe just drop out the bottom or something.

-I'm conflicted about having the tunnel welded in. Having a big hole was nice. I did have to take the top cover off also. A welded in tunnel is going to be tighter. Maybe I should just take my chances. Worst case I would have to pull the motor out the front and the transmission and transfer case out the bottom.

-Having the shock mounts a little further out would have been nice.

Tomorrow I will be taking off the old transmission and transfer case. I ordered all the small parts I needed to put the new transmission on the engine and finish up a bunch of little bits.

 

[Metcalf]

A bit of progress tonight. Old firewall cut out. New panel made and tack welded in place. I ended up using some 3/16" material since the panel was fairly small and I didn't want it to flex at all! I bolted in the pedal assembly and everything seemed to work out like I wanted. I moved the assembly about 1/4" to the drivers side away from the steering column. So far so good. I also moved the pedal assembly up slightly so I will be able to bolt the top of the pedal assembly into the cowl for more support.

Welding this thing in fully is going to take a few hours and its going to suck. I think the drivers most side will have to be welded in from the inside.

Overall it is looking WAY better than the last version...

 

[Mike S]

Your Willys is quite a project. Nice work.

I have a 1947 CJ2A that I bought about 15 years ago. I've been using it for quail hunting, but I am slowly getting things done to make it like this:

 

[Metcalf]

Your Willys is quite a project. Nice work.

I have a 1947 CJ2A that I bought about 15 years ago. I've been using it for quail hunting, but I am slowly getting things done to make it like this:

Sounds like a fun project. Mine snowballed into a full frame up rebuild because of a blown bearing in the transmission, be careful

 

[Mike S]

I know exactly what you mean. I installed a Warn FF rear with locking hubs for flat towing on my hunting trips. A failed fuel pump lead to pulling the fuel tank and cleaning/relining, new fuel pump... and, oh. my transmission is popping out of second gear and the seals are leaking - need to rebuild the TCase, too. While I'm at it, I should pull the tub and finish the body work I started. New rear floor and some repair to front hat channel. Guess I'll clean and paint the engine and frame... and finally put in a new wiring harness... Maybe I'll re-upholster the seats, too...

 

[Metcalf]

New firewall panel welded in place. I was able to get access to about 90 percent of the perimeter. A few places I just couldn't get. Welding to the old sheetmetal in cramped places was a PAIN. I ended up trigger welding a few spots with a little more heat and wire speed to help.

Primed and still wet with drab paint.

I don't think it is going to flex or go anywhere now! Hopefully it will be good for the next 70 years again.

 

[Metcalf]

Ok......let the fun start again.....

I finally found my newer camera and with some razing from friends am going to try and take better pictures. I also added a light or two to the shop to help with that.

This morning I started dissecting my T18 install. First up is the adapter. This is a factory cast steel adapter from a late 1970s CJ7 with a Dana 20. Since the D20 and D18 share a very similar case you can use these adapters to mate up to a LARGE BORE D18 case ( or a 'super' 18 built with a D20 case ).

Here are a few pics ( decent I hope ) of the adapter.

Transmission side

Transfer case side

Part number. Reading 'T98A-4A', a 'w' inside an 'O', then 'TC 12'

To me it looks like there is a seal pocket on the back ( transmission side ) of the adapter. Advance Adapters lists a National 473468 in there aftermarket adapter which looks to be an aluminum clone of this adapter. It is suppose to be 2.125" ID, 3.061" OD, 0.375" long and the open side goes towards the transmission.

Looking at the design, I can't see why there wouldn't be a paper gasket between the transmission and adapter. AA says just use RTV...lame. I will try and make a thin gasket.

I will have to make a new spacer to set the position of the D18 input gear. I don't have the original.

Here are the links to the AA adapter that is very similar....

http://www.advanceadapters.com/prod...8-to-dana-1820-adapter-kit-large-index-cases/

Fun Stuff.

 

[Metcalf]

One step forward two steps back...

I was investigating my T18 and ran into a few issues. I did confirm I do have a 6.32:1 version.

I have a late model, 77-79 version which has a 1.060" dia, 10-spline input with the long pilot. This will not work with the AA adapter I have. It kinda works, but doesn't. I have to find a new solution. These are my options I think....

I think I could swap over to a ford T-18 case. Then I will have to modify the front of the ford T18 to adapt to the GM bellhousing.

RP 4WD // Serious Off-Road Since 1989 — AMC/ Ford T18 Conversion Kit

This adapter might also work. I have a e-mail out to Novak.

Adapting the Jeep CJ T18 to GM Engines

I think I am going to need a new clutch plate also for the 1.060 10-spline input.

This may be another option, but is pretty expensive.

712512 : T-18 Transmission to Chevy/Buick Engine Adapter (New Input Shaft) | Advance Adapters

A few other issues....

-How hard is the transmission to get into neutral? Mine seems to be VERY picky with neutral. It seems with both the input and output seated into the case it won't go into neutral. If I pull the input out slightly than it will. This is concerning.

-I need to find the teflon sliders for the shift forks

-My t-case adapter is a TIGHT fit on the rear bearing.

Any thoughts?

 

[Metcalf]

Some pics of the later model jeep ( approx 1977-79 ) Jeep T18 in put shaft. This is an odd one.....a really long pilot snout.

I am holding and old sm420 input shaft over the top. They are similar in splined length, but the snout on the T18 is longer. I hope the novak adapter will work.

I will have to change clutch discs to a smaller 1.060 10-spline ford unit.

Anyone want to buy an AA T18 adapter part# 712528 ?

712528 : Chevy V8 / 4.3L to Jeep CJs T-18 4 speed manual transmission, adapter kit. | Advance Adapters

This is designed for the 1.125 10 spline input shaft and I have the large bellhousing retainer version.

The inside of the T-18 sure is clean!

I figured out my neutral issue. Basically the syncro's where sticking on the 3-4 shift ring with cold thick assembly lube. Everything seems to be working really well in all 4 gears + reverse now. The T18 has a 7.44 reverse also...the T98, its cousin, has a 7.82 reverse ratio. With 4.88s I will be at 75.5:1 in 1st, but 88.9:1 in reverse. I just find that funny.....

I'm going to try and not get bogged down by this setback. I can still finish the assembly on the Dana 18, figure out the transfer case adapter gaskets and seal, make a transfer case input gear spacer, prep the chassis for sticking the motor back in, take the SM420/D18 off the engine, etc.

More tomorrow.

 

[Metcalf]

another day down.....

Installed a pipe plug in the D20 case to clear the speedometer input. I will be turning the speed port into my overflow. You need to install this plug BEFORE you install the rear output housing, it is basically non-removable so make sure to seal it up with lots of teflon tape.

I used some nice flange bolts for the pan. They have the serrated bottom to help with vibration. All of the bolts got thread sealant and a dab of loctite in the hole.

Here are the covers you need for the Dana 20 case to cover the shift rails. they are a tight press fit. I used a deadblow to install them.

I used a little cheez-wiz type sealant on eash one. They installed pretty easy, but it takes a little work to keep them straight.

I built a slide hammer. Sometimes I really like having a lathe in the garage....

Then I used it to pull out the old pilot bushing once I separated the the bellhousing/transmission/transfer case off the back of the engine. It took like ten taps with the slide hammer and it came out. What a wonderful tool!

I also used the lathe to make some seal drivers for the D18 outputs and shift rails. These will sure be handy for pressing in the new seals.

I decided to make a gasket for between the transmission and transfer case adapter out of some thin sheet gasket material I had laying around. I used a small ball-peen hammer to 'cut' the gasket after using a little 3m spray glue to hold everything together.

Finished up the afternoon by painting the T18 with the same tan paint as the D18. I don't like using dark colors since you can't really see where a leak is coming from.

More tomorrow. I need to call Novak and order my bellhousing adapter...

 

[jeepdreamer]

Looking good so far! I can't get online regularly until I get stateside and look into a replacemnt computer but...
Could I talk you into making one of those pilot bearnig slide hammers for me too!!?! Never seen the like and I hate the old grease method. I'll buy one off you.

 

[Metcalf]

Here is the two fork puller tool thing....

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FDGU20/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had to shave the little ears down just a touch to fit in the small ID GM pilot bushing.

The slide hammer is just a 3/4 fine thread bolt, some 1/2" shaft, and a few pieces of round stock.

 

[Metcalf]

Tonight's edition of Frustration Garage!

The top two fasteners are 1/2-13 thread NOT 3/8-16 like the other four lower fasteners. Really, did they need to make them different?

A little 'right stuff' on the sealing edge. Just a little tiny bead. I am not trying to go overboard with the stuff....

The adapter installed on the back of the transmission. Make sure to check the fastener length to make sure they don't bottom or protrude into the case too far. I torqued them to 35 ft lbs.

All of the adapter to transmission case fasteners got thread sealant and blue loctite.

This fastener that goes into a tapped hole on the transfer case needs to go in before the adapter plate goes on the transmission. If you have JUST the right one you might be able to sneak it in place.....maybe.....

Novak supplied adapter to transfer case gasket. I put a little 'right stuff' on the other side.....

This is a problem area. The gasket is very minimal in this location.....

A little bead of 'right stuff' on the gasket.....

At this point you can drop on the transfer case. They said the transfer case would just bolt on....nope. The factory Dana 18 twin stick shift tower hits the side of the transmission! There was about 12 different versions of the T18 and I think the cases changed slightly.....

About 30 minutes with the flap wheel and it fit. I took the majority of the material off the Dana 18 twin stick tower. I ended up taking a little big of material off the T18 case, but it was fairly thin in the problem location so I stopped removing material from the transmission case.

I ended up taking about 1/8" of material off the side of the transfer case shift tower. I had JUST enough room to retain the little threaded hole on the inside fork for the factory set screw.

I probably could have taken slightly less material off but I didn't want to fight the install of the fasteners as much....

This fastener needs to be started first. If it isn't you could jam the case against the bolt and have enough gap under the mounting flange to crack off an ear on another location. Careful Careful. It is also a total pain to get to and you have to use an open end wrench for most of it. I just started another fastener to hold the case in location while I fiddled with this one. By the time it gets tight you can get a closed end wrench on it just barely for fiinal tightening....just BARELY. I thought about using a stud in this hole of the transfer case but decided against it since the nut would be almost impossible to start and the stud can't bottom in the hole to stay tight....

part two coming.....

 

[Metcalf]

One of the top mounting holes goes all the way through the adapter. This gets a normal bolt and nut. I used a metal lock nut to hopefully keep things tight for a long time.

All blind threaded hole locations got thread sealant and blue loctite.

Now go in the house and jump in the shower. While in the shower make sure to realize you didn't install the flipping seal in the transfer case adapter plate! ARRGGGGGGGGG! Jump back in the shop clothes and storm out to the garage while mumbling stuff about being an idiot to tear everything apart before all the 'right stuff' sets up!

Insert this seal in the adapter. The open side goes toward the transmission. It presses in pretty easy using a hammer and an old Dana 18 main shaft bearing race......

Reassembly said adapter with a little more 'right stuff' goo, seal and loctite all the mounting bolts, torque said mounting bolts, re-install the transfer case, use a little goo on the adapter gasket, get that pain in the rear hidden bolt started again, get everything on the transfer case mounting bolts tightened back down, then come back in the house to find out you didn't shut the side door all the way and the dogs escaped for a romp over the neighbors for a possible fresh chicken dinner, upload some pictures, write this thing up just finishing when then the dogs show back up at the back door since it's getting cold out.......

This jeep building stuff is FUN!

And a picture of the shift forks for my buddy. The late model T18's have aluminum shift forks and little plastic pads in the rails.....

 

[locrwln]

The goods news is I think everyone I know (including me) that does their own work as done something similar. Luckily you figured it out before install, refill, drive...

Jack