*Rickashay's 04' Tundra* - A build of Compromises

[FullTankHank]

I can't wait to see how this build turns out. It's going to look killer with the gear you have ordered up for it. It may even give me the little extra bit of motivation I need to get around to doing the rest of mods finally.:ylsmoke:

 

[tyv12]

I've been having trouble with flexing in the shock buckets, if you are taking it all apart I would recommend ordering the bracing kit from total chaos as well, I'm having to take mine all apart again to correct it


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[Shradicalwyo]

I really love the looks of this rack, it looks like a Frontrunner and looks like the same style of mounting points used on the taco. Also, the rear tire carrier looks so ************ on the tundra.

http://instagram.com/p/t8KTZrQEL3/?modal=true

 

[Muttle]

Jeez, just going to town already on Doug. Going to be a whole different machine soon

 

[Derek24]

Nice choice on tires! Might as well stick with made in japan label. Other than being HEAVY they wear very well and grip well in all conditions.

 

[rickashay]

I have a set of hypersilver sequoia split-spoke 17s in my garage I'd trade lol.

Every one I know running the toyos loves them even in spite of their crazy weight. On lighter trucks they wear like iron but yet somehow still provide decent traction.

Lol hey I like those wheels, but I already sold a set to get the Stealth 6's! haha Yah time will tell, the Toyos should be here in a couple days

I can't wait to see how this build turns out. It's going to look killer with the gear you have ordered up for it. It may even give me the little extra bit of motivation I need to get around to doing the rest of mods finally.:ylsmoke:

I was just checking out your Tundra, very nice rig. Hopefully my build thread can be used for others motivation instead of the sole purpose of emptying my pockets. haha

I've been having trouble with flexing in the shock buckets, if you are taking it all apart I would recommend ordering the bracing kit from total chaos as well, I'm having to take mine all apart again to correct it


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Really? I was debating them but then thought "I'm not going to jump the truck, I'm no Baja racer..."

After reading your comment though, I thought what the extra $100... I'd rather not rtear it apart and do it again. The IFS is weak, so I might as well just overbuild and be safe. Thanks for the info. How bad were they flexing and how can you tell? Broken welds on the factory coil buckets?

I really love the looks of this rack, it looks like a Frontrunner and looks like the same style of mounting points used on the taco. Also, the rear tire carrier looks so ************ on the tundra.

http://instagram.com/p/t8KTZrQEL3/?modal=true

Yes very nice indeed. I think it might be a front runner? I'll have to inquire. That Tundra is SO nice.

Jeez, just going to town already on Doug. Going to be a whole different machine soon

Just trying to follow suite after yours!

Nice choice on tires! Might as well stick with made in japan label. Other than being HEAVY they wear very well and grip well in all conditions.

Yah I got a pretty steller deal on them, so it was kind of a no brainer. Hopefully they balance better than the MT/R's... they were TERRIBLE in that regard. Stiffer sidewalls though with the load range E 35's vs. my Load range D MT/R's.... just means I can air down lower I guess. I would often air down to 8 psi in the snow with my Kevlars and SCS wheels without issue. I should be able to do at least the same with the Toyos and their stiffer sidewalls.

 

[tyv12]

No broken welds but with bumper and winch I'm having trouble with alignments going squirly and I'm wondering if it's because of movements in the buckets. I've been running coilovers for 3 years and it's getting worse as time goes on so $100 is cheap insurance. It also supports the uca bushings so they don't loosen off or overtighten themselves, things ice been fighting with for a while


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[Muttle]

Just trying to follow suite after yours!

Think you've surpassed me in mods.
But at least we both will have tundra's on 35's now

 

[seanpistol]

Just talked to a very knowledgeable 1-gen Tundra and gear guy. He's got a supercharged 05 with ARBs F/R on 35's with armor and all that. Thought i'd share with you what he said about gear ratio for 35s.-

"Depends on how heavy the wheel/tire combination would be.
If the mass would be steel wheels or 45+ lb beadlocks/double beadlocks, then I'd recommend 4.88's.
If each tire is 58-70 lbs or less each I would go with 4.56 gearing.
Anything over that, 75-80+ lb tires+heavy wheels, go with 4.88's

BIG PROBLEM with 4.88 gears is they are weaker!
4.56 with more teeth, thicker pinon teeth than 4.88's, do some research.
You'll decide 4.56 over the 4.88's like I did based on this information.
escondidotundra ended up breaking his 4.88 gears over 7-8 times.
Larger tires/heavier tires/wheels will equal more stress/strain on the pinion/ring gear and you will end up breaking the 4.88 gears.
4.56 gears do not have this problem with the 8.4" 3rd member
Same with the 7.5" Reverse diff.
4.88's on the front diff will be a major problem . Even tinier teeth and no strength will break them with heavy wheel/tire combo, mud suction, hills, or spinning the tires/wheels under load.

Go 4.56 gears, NITRO. Solid pinion collars, Then cryo treat everything like the ring/pinion, bearings like I did for strength.
GET all NITRO stuff."

 

[rickashay]

Just talked to a very knowledgeable 1-gen Tundra and gear guy. He's got a supercharged 05 with ARBs F/R on 35's with armor and all that. Thought i'd share with you what he said about gear ratio for 35s.-

"Depends on how heavy the wheel/tire combination would be.
If the mass would be steel wheels or 45+ lb beadlocks/double beadlocks, then I'd recommend 4.88's.
If each tire is 58-70 lbs or less each I would go with 4.56 gearing.
Anything over that, 75-80+ lb tires+heavy wheels, go with 4.88's

BIG PROBLEM with 4.88 gears is they are weaker!
4.56 with more teeth, thicker pinon teeth than 4.88's, do some research.
You'll decide 4.56 over the 4.88's like I did based on this information.
escondidotundra ended up breaking his 4.88 gears over 7-8 times.
Larger tires/heavier tires/wheels will equal more stress/strain on the pinion/ring gear and you will end up breaking the 4.88 gears.
4.56 gears do not have this problem with the 8.4" 3rd member
Same with the 7.5" Reverse diff.
4.88's on the front diff will be a major problem . Even tinier teeth and no strength will break them with heavy wheel/tire combo, mud suction, hills, or spinning the tires/wheels under load.

Go 4.56 gears, NITRO. Solid pinion collars, Then cryo treat everything like the ring/pinion, bearings like I did for strength.
GET all NITRO stuff."

Thanks for the info. I was aware the higher the gear ratio the weaker the gears became, but I havent heard of too many owner breaking 4.88's. Not to say it doesnt happen but I would imagine driving style also has a lot to do with it. Valid points nonetheless and I'm definitely leaning for 4.56s.

 

[rickashay]

Still no real updates yet. However, I'll be cutting up the firewall this weekend (starting to anyways...) in preparation for the 35's. I expect it to take a weekend per side but we'll see how it unfolds. Currently my Tundra is on the middle perch on my Bilstein 5100s with stock coils and I would guess I'm at around 1.25-1.5" of lift over stock. I am hoping to clear the 35's with this amount of lift, as I do not want to run more than 2" of lift once the Fox's show up. Not that it really matters though, because if done properly it should cycle the suspension fully without rubbing regardless of static lift height.

I'll be sure to take a ton of photos of the tub job, so I can pass the information on to the Tundra community for future reference. Wish me luck!

 

[BrianTN]

Can't wait to see the pictures. I'm interested in doing the same in the future. Any idea what you are doing on the interior where the floorboard is modified?

 

[rickashay]

Can't wait to see the pictures. I'm interested in doing the same in the future. Any idea what you are doing on the interior where the floorboard is modified?

I will be trying to use a single sheet to patch the hole. I want it to be as clean as possible when finished. My plan is to use a 3M seam sealer on all the weld areas to ensure a good seal, as well as a ton of primer and paint, followed by POR15 or some bedliner. I am sure I'm going to have to trim the kick panel plastic back and may need to delete my dead pedal but that will be something done on the fly...

The guy who is helping me do it, has done it before on his 1st Gen Tacoma. You can see his process here: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-builds/269822-mrbeggins-04-tacoma-build-5.html

There are a few more photos on the next few pages if you want to browse through his thread. Really cool Tacoma and essentially a lot like what I'm going for with my truck, just a Tundra version. I might even bribe him to help me bob the bed (as he does later in the build.

 

[tyv12]

Are you keeping stock front fenders because even with 285's I can stuff my tires so they are touching the very top of the wheel well


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[Muttle]

shame I don't have room in my shop, I wanted to try out my punch/ flange tool. lol