*Rickashay's 04' Tundra* - A build of Compromises
- Thread starter rickashay
- Start date
seanpistol
Explorer
My Camburg C/O's also have an allen key to "lock" the adjuster. At least mine doesn't do too much, and I can move the adjuster with a spanner wrench, with a little more muscle, to gain access to the allen without damaging threads. Removing the C/O is a PITA because I have to separate the steering knuckle to get the CV out of the way enough to remove the C/O's lower bolt.
I did a ton of research and many discussions with the Camburg/SAW engineer to figure out what spring to run. I tried adding max preload to the 13" 650lb spring and saw the same results you did- sitting low. I since added the plate bumper and winch, and changed my springs to 14" 700lb springs. I'm at 1.5" of preload while max is 1.75". I achieved (I'm guessing based on CV angles) about 2" of lift up front, and the ride is plush. I'm also just about right in the middle of available droop and uptravel. I posted several numbers from my conversations in my build thread, and all these coilovers are just about the same besides the amount of stroke. All the springs are made by Eibach but may have a different paint job and logo.
Another member runs 16" springs on the same coilovers to acheive height, but at the sacrifice of droop(according to the engineer).
Are your tires rubbing the firewall with the new uptravel?
I'm still debating the 63" Chevy swap myself... I may install the 3 pack AAL I have had sitting in the garage, remove the overload, and throw in the Marlin Crawler U-bolt flip and see how I feel about it...
I'm interested to how you pull off removing the flares since I know you're all about "clean" when i'm more about the ratchet version with pinstripes and all... You could tack sheet metal into the holes, fill with bondo, sand, paint with your line-x, and probably have it look very proper compared to my tacomaworld style plugs.
I did a ton of research and many discussions with the Camburg/SAW engineer to figure out what spring to run. I tried adding max preload to the 13" 650lb spring and saw the same results you did- sitting low. I since added the plate bumper and winch, and changed my springs to 14" 700lb springs. I'm at 1.5" of preload while max is 1.75". I achieved (I'm guessing based on CV angles) about 2" of lift up front, and the ride is plush. I'm also just about right in the middle of available droop and uptravel. I posted several numbers from my conversations in my build thread, and all these coilovers are just about the same besides the amount of stroke. All the springs are made by Eibach but may have a different paint job and logo.
Another member runs 16" springs on the same coilovers to acheive height, but at the sacrifice of droop(according to the engineer).
Are your tires rubbing the firewall with the new uptravel?
I'm still debating the 63" Chevy swap myself... I may install the 3 pack AAL I have had sitting in the garage, remove the overload, and throw in the Marlin Crawler U-bolt flip and see how I feel about it...
I'm interested to how you pull off removing the flares since I know you're all about "clean" when i'm more about the ratchet version with pinstripes and all... You could tack sheet metal into the holes, fill with bondo, sand, paint with your line-x, and probably have it look very proper compared to my tacomaworld style plugs.
theBullfrog125
Adventurer
Got some good coil over tech going on over here! I won't have to look very hard for info when I upgrade vehicles in the not-to-far future 
Bushwacker Inc.
Supporting Sponsor
FYI, I am in love with these wheels. Nice rig!
- Andy
- Andy
theBullfrog125
Adventurer
I understand the draw to Chevy 63s, speaking from experience here! But if I were to do it again I'd have a custom set of progressive stock length springs made. Obviously I have a T100 so the shackle mounts are entirely different but I mean after you put together the parts, buy the springs, and the time involved tacking for placement you'd be better off having custom packs built for you. I like the flex I get from my Chevys but I've seen some killer flex from some properly built springs too.
Theres also the option of a shackle flip for extra droop. It would still be a lot of work but then you wouldn't have to mess with new front mounts and axle location. Also not sure how much lift that would add, but don't have to run a long shackle either.
Just some thoughts!
Sorry Addison for the thread jack!
rickashay
Explorer
No problem. I;m still debating what to do here.... custom leafs @ factory length with shackle flip or 63's. Problem with the shackle flip is it's kinda hard to build a custom leaf pack until you have the shackle flip done and know where your limitations and ride height are. I might just flip the factory pack and see where I'm at, because I will have to do it for the Chevy's anyway and the front hanger is the one that moves.
It will be interesting to see what Fox recommends. I should be hearing from them this week and I'm not sure if they will suggest a stiffer coil or going to a longer length spring.
UPDATE
Work has been nuts and I need to be within phone/internet service most of the time for support. Kinda sucks as it limits my ability to travel into the backcountry. However I am heading for the hills next weekend so it's been kind of nice just relaxing on the weekends and actually having a bit of time to turn wrenches. Lots of small details I want to clean up on the truck before winter.
With the new UCA's and rub on my fender, I had to follow suite with sean_pistol and open up my wheel wells. Made a small jig and took off ~1.5" from the outer lip of the fender. I didn't want to be overly aggressive here. My concern is with the fender liners though as I really hope to retain them but the probelm is that all the mounting points are removed once opening up the wheel wells. Seeing as how I have decided I will be filling the fender flare holes and doing a color-match LineX trim around the fenders and rockers, I thought I might as well make a good solution to retain the fender liners, knowing that all the ugly paint and weld marks will soon be remedied and covered by the LineX.
The jig:
IMG_5377.jpg by Addison Rickaby, on Flickr
All marked out:
IMG_5378.jpg by Addison Rickaby, on Flickr
I cut the factory fender liner tabs off of the metal I had trimmed. I prepped and welded them on the backside of the fenders in alignment with where the fender liners will want to attach. My plan is to simply zip tie through each eye, holding the liners to the inside of the fender. Now all I need is zip ties if they ever need to be removed instead of dealing with Toyotas annoying and expensive retainer clips.
Cut, welded, and primed:
IMG_5398.jpg by Addison Rickaby, on Flickr
While everything is off I am going to also try the "Internal Snorkel" mod. Hopefully have everything buttoned back up by tomorrow.
theBullfrog125
Adventurer
That sounds like a good plan. Another thing to think about that may be important in the decision making process is aren't Tundra springs around 58" long eye to eye? So is the extra 5 inches of spring really worth the added hassle for what would be minimal droop gains? I'd think you would see the most improvement from the shackle flip.
Not too mention the spring rate of an unmodified Chevy spring pack isn't spectacular, I'd recommend a custom pack or at least a mini pack anyway. A mini pack is my next mod for sure.
seanpistol
Explorer
Nice job on salvaging the tabs to mount the liner. I just completely did away with it, which is another reason I did the undercover cowl snorkel.
Do you need to trim the rear fenders as well? If you trim more than 1/4" off the rear wheel well, the inner and outer fender walls will separate and you'll have to devise a way to keep the bedside from flopping around. I made brackets and welded them on. In the process I "pulled" my bedsides about 1/2" just because I liked how it looked. If you can avoid all that work because your tires aren't rubbing at full compression- might as well.
Do you need to trim the rear fenders as well? If you trim more than 1/4" off the rear wheel well, the inner and outer fender walls will separate and you'll have to devise a way to keep the bedside from flopping around. I made brackets and welded them on. In the process I "pulled" my bedsides about 1/2" just because I liked how it looked. If you can avoid all that work because your tires aren't rubbing at full compression- might as well.
Blender
Adventurer
That's very good to know. Floppy bedside is no good.
seanpistol
Explorer
This makes sense and is an interesting idea... and it would be pretty easy to do since figuring out where to mount the front hanger is the toughest part of the job. Figure out what length shackle you want to use, what angle you want it at, and weld the rear hanger.
The 2nd gen Tacoma guys do it.
toyotech
Expedition Leader
Long travel arms are usually 3.5 inch wider than stock and the gains are worth it. So I'm leaf spring world. Long leaf means longer travel. 5 inches doesnt sound a lot but 3.5 doesn't either.
The 63s are flexy springs from guys I rock crawl with.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
The 63s are flexy springs from guys I rock crawl with.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
