RMP&O's v8 80-series

Shanfari

DhofarX.com
Did you visit my country, haha! That looks like many parts here in Arabia, except the snow part :)

Those STTs have always struck me as a nice tire ... if you decide to go for the full set, I'll be curious to hear how they do for you in the snow. I have a buddy down this way who's got them on his SAS'd Xterra, and he's been pretty happy as far as I know.

Nice pics from JV. Bet the race is a blast ... I hope the crowds haven't made it too much of a headache to enjoy being there in person. I've been hunting down clips and whatnot where I can ... still need to figure out how to get out there myself.

I have the STT's and they're so sticky on-road and off-road. They consume lots of fuel, because it's 30kg (67 lbs) for each 35" rubber! I really love them. What I have is the second set, had 32" before and the fuel consumption is lots better with that size. If I'm not looking for bigger ones (37"+) then these would be my only favorite tires.
 

RMP&O

Expedition Leader
Well I found the SSTs online for $185 each, real good price I think. I am wanting 37" KM2s (or maybe Maxxis Treps) and new 17" wheels but that is a $2500 purchase! With shipping the three SSTs to my door is $650. Much easier on the wallet and at this time the wallet is not bulging! Eventually I may go with the 37s and new wheels but right now I just need 3 new tires to get me by. The ones on the truck right now royally suck! From what I have read the SSTs are a high mileage tire, likely due to being a hard compound. So for now I think I am just going to get three more SSTs and call it good for awhile.

I am going to get some Slee panhard adjusters too. Also going to pick up some new tres for the tie rod and draglink. Beyond this all I am wanting to do soon is some new front shocks, once I fit the MetalTech spacers I only have 2.5" of down travel on my front shocks which is not enough.

Cheers
 

Shanfari

DhofarX.com
Well I found the SSTs online for $185 each, real good price I think. I am wanting 37" KM2s (or maybe Maxxis Treps) and new 17" wheels but that is a $2500 purchase! With shipping the three SSTs to my door is $650. Much easier on the wallet and at this time the wallet is not bulging! Eventually I may go with the 37s and new wheels but right now I just need 3 new tires to get me by. The ones on the truck right now royally suck! From what I have read the SSTs are a high mileage tire, likely due to being a hard compound. So for now I think I am just going to get three more SSTs and call it good for awhile.

I am going to get some Slee panhard adjusters too. Also going to pick up some new tres for the tie rod and draglink. Beyond this all I am wanting to do soon is some new front shocks, once I fit the MetalTech spacers I only have 2.5" of down travel on my front shocks which is not enough.

Cheers

That's super cheap! I got my 5 tires set for 1550$, 310$ each. Came after 3 months! But for a 15-days order, it's 400$ each.
 

RMP&O

Expedition Leader
I came across these at KoH....

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/umpfilter10905kn.html

I really like that and have been looking for something like that for some time. Not just for the Cruiser but also for another project. A bit expensive but I think it is worth it and like I say I like it a lot. Going to get one for the Cruiser as my current set up is super cheesy and not so great.

Cheers
 

cruiseroutfit

Supporting Sponsor: Cruiser Outfitters
We run the Ump filters on our Class 5 desert car, very effective and plenty of air flow. The only limiting factor is their overall size but if you can make em' fit, they would work really well.
 

RMP&O

Expedition Leader
We run the Ump filters on our Class 5 desert car, very effective and plenty of air flow. The only limiting factor is their overall size but if you can make em' fit, they would work really well.

Right on, thanks for the info! Plenty of room in the 80, even with the v8. Should be plenty of room for one in the 60 too with the inline-6 diesel.

Cheers
 

RMP&O

Expedition Leader
I had this truck listed for sale and decided today I want to keep it through the summer, perhaps longer.

Went to c&t the front axle last weekend. Got all set up and it became obvious we were not going to get much from a c&t, maybe 3*. So decided it was not worth it, instead I put in some 3* bushings. My castor is still out, 4-5* which is a lot. In total my castor is out 7-8* (with no offset bushings) which we simply can not gain by a C&T. So after a little research I decided new radius arms is the route I want to go. I need to gain a lot of castor and don't want to do a combination of items like bushings, drop brackets or plates. Will go with Slee's or Superiors radius arms in a few months. Slee's give about 8* which would be about perfect on my truck to get where I want it to be which is 3.5-5* castor. Who knows though I may decide an extra $600ish for the Superior Superflex is worth it! The other option would be going Hellfire knuckles and converting to cross over steering. This though would more than likely require relocating the panhard but would allow much more turn on the c&t. I will probably go with the new radius arms as it is just much more simple and easier to do.

And just FYI, for me the ideal lifted truck is one that still retains stock characteristics when lifted. To get castor where I want it I would have to use bushings, plates and or drop brackets, I need to gain 8-10* which is a lot. I am well aware most people use these items and are happy with them. I am after retaining stock OEM bushings (if at all possible) and not using plates which add potential issues when far from home. Drop brackets also reduce ground clearance a lot which I do not want. Hence why I was after a cut & turn. New radius arms keep the stock bushings (I don't think I need 11* castor from arms and bushing) and keep the amount of add-on items to a minimum which in turns means less to fail. All my current issues or dislikes with the truck's front end are from castor. Tie rods & drag link ends are new, steering box is tight, axle is centered.

We installed new tre's and a panhard adjuster. With the panhard adjuster in the axle is centered up nicely, within a 16th of an inch. I am going to get another one for the rear axle soon.

By June I plan to have;
-New radius arms
-UMP air filter box
-new front shocks, I have only 2 3/4" down travel with the current OME shocks. Probably do rear shocks at the same time.
-weld some angle iron on my rear lower links. The iron is already sitting here.
-new window channels, going to go through all the doors and fix everything up

Around the same time or shortly there after I plan to get;
-Slee short bus front bumper
-sliders, probably from CBI
-simple rear bumper to carry one full sized spare and nothing else, probably CBI
-Procar front seats
-Full sized spare
-tach calibration kit
-trans temp gauge
-keep tidying up my interior
-Monstaliner, decided I am going to do it up on this truck. I may spray it as I have a booth available. Going to do a dark charcoal, almost black. Only doing lower portion of the truck.

The only other things I might like to do to the truck would be; a belly skid and reworking the exhaust. At least for this year I have axed any plans for beefing up the axles, 37" rubber, an overland platform in the back, an aux fuel tank or any other stuff I was thinking about doing when I got the truck.

That's about it. I plan to use the truck as much as I can find time for this summer. Camping and wheeling.

Cheers
 
Last edited:

Danimal

Adventurer
Glad you're keeping it, for the time being anyway.

C&T seems like it might help with driveshaft angles and possible driveline vibes on a truck with as much lift as yours. Even if you had a good double cardan front driveshaft, aren't you worried about pinion angle with new radius arms? I realize this sort of thing is done all of the time and you're not treading in to uncharted territory. I'm just curious.

Dan
 

RMP&O

Expedition Leader
Glad you're keeping it, for the time being anyway.

C&T seems like it might help with driveshaft angles and possible driveline vibes on a truck with as much lift as yours. Even if you had a good double cardan front driveshaft, aren't you worried about pinion angle with new radius arms? I realize this sort of thing is done all of the time and you're not treading in to uncharted territory. I'm just curious.

Dan

It certainly is a concern Dan. One I should not forget about. I am learning there seems to be a real sweet spot on 80s for the pinion. I have no room on the front for a DC shaft, my driveline is already only 1/2" or so off my trans pan. Right now my main concern is the castor, I don't get bad vibes from the driveline and I do have part time with the slit t-case.

After giving it a lot more thought. I may just go with Hellfire knuckles and convert to cross over steering. Relocate the panhard. C&T after this to get the castor right. I am hearing mixed results with new radius arms on Mud and not wanting to go a route that never ends. I am even thinking about torching everything off the axle, setting it up how I want and starting fresh. A RuffStuff housing has also crossed my mind. See how it works out in a month or two when I actually have some cash for the parts!

Cheers
 

zimm

Expedition Leader
i think you need a 12" lifted 78 bronco, with a 390FE and CJ heads. its all been done, theres no uncharted territory left. :)
 

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