superbuickguy
Explorer
Sadly all of my Buicks are towed and none of my Fords are being towed. Of course, I don't own any Fords - so there is that....
SAR JK r2.8 Cummins conversion
- Thread starter superbuickguy
- Start date
superbuickguy
Explorer
time to finish it up. One major thing is I get to rewire the rear - the battery and inverter is all now a Breeze 1600 watt e-generator. This combines a lot - and adds battery powered a/c to keep the pups cool even when it's not cool out
2 batteries for the back
a lot of clean up in the engine compartment
inside as well, I need to get a set of lights working (and rewire the other off-road lights)
this side isn't so bad but I need to fix the throttle pedal - the way it's designed puts the pedal about parallel with the floor... not comfortable
2 batteries for the back
a lot of clean up in the engine compartment
inside as well, I need to get a set of lights working (and rewire the other off-road lights)
this side isn't so bad but I need to fix the throttle pedal - the way it's designed puts the pedal about parallel with the floor... not comfortable
superbuickguy
Explorer
so back to this... first problem, went to the gas station and realized I need a bigger hole
I have a list of stuff to fix and finish... it's not terribly long but the fuel fill and the gas pedal are at the very top of the list...
To be honest, I have no idea (not in the instructions either) about where the pedal should be mounted in relation to your foot. I know for 100% sure that spot isn't found by using the Jeep pedal studs... go figure...
What else? cabin wiring, make things look pretty under the hood, realign the steering wheel, put new tires on it... then let my wife drive it for awhile to get the 'real' list... but before i give it to her... that fuel pedal and fuel filler will be fixed.
I have a list of stuff to fix and finish... it's not terribly long but the fuel fill and the gas pedal are at the very top of the list...
To be honest, I have no idea (not in the instructions either) about where the pedal should be mounted in relation to your foot. I know for 100% sure that spot isn't found by using the Jeep pedal studs... go figure...
What else? cabin wiring, make things look pretty under the hood, realign the steering wheel, put new tires on it... then let my wife drive it for awhile to get the 'real' list... but before i give it to her... that fuel pedal and fuel filler will be fixed.
superbuickguy
Explorer
time to make voltage
now in place
and some thinning of wires in the engine compartment
next the drawers go back in
also fixed the throttle pedal...
now in place
and some thinning of wires in the engine compartment
next the drawers go back in
also fixed the throttle pedal...
superbuickguy
Explorer
alrighty then, not a lot of posts but doing a lot of stupid stuff that doesn't picture well.
in that theme, I removed the fill tube, drilled the hole out to 1" then reinstalled... this is reinstalled
put the boxes back in the back
and the list. I plan on driving this this next week. For reasons, my Colorado hit a post.... could have been worse but it munched the rear corner of the bed - so it's down while I fix that.
and I know you're all wondering - how does it drive. Like a diesel semi. The transmission was probably the wrong choice at this point (but not after I turn it up?) - Nothing happens fast. It hauls down the freeway at ticket-level speeds (more than 10 over) but it doesn't happen quickly.
in that theme, I removed the fill tube, drilled the hole out to 1" then reinstalled... this is reinstalled
put the boxes back in the back
and the list. I plan on driving this this next week. For reasons, my Colorado hit a post.... could have been worse but it munched the rear corner of the bed - so it's down while I fix that.
and I know you're all wondering - how does it drive. Like a diesel semi. The transmission was probably the wrong choice at this point (but not after I turn it up?) - Nothing happens fast. It hauls down the freeway at ticket-level speeds (more than 10 over) but it doesn't happen quickly.
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superbuickguy
Explorer
back to the Jeep. The weird sound - almost like a boost leak but not quite. I hope this is the problem
I think I'll weld the flanges together then use a V-band to make it removeable. I spent some quality time on this trying to find the noise... hope it's it. Otherwise, this may go do its purpose this week.... Colorado needs some love (after all, she put 75,000 miles on it since she got it last March)... so this goes back into service. Still have several things to do but none of them prevent it from being used while doing that stuff:
- for those curious-
- back 1/2 bench
- install the zero breeze battery
- install a charge plug on the outside
- turn off the dash lights
things I'll do before it leaves
- coolant reservoir (oops, forgot that)
- exhaust leak
- shore power plug
- straighten steering wheel
- figure out backup camera
- and most importantly, figure out why I'm getting a 3597 code (unstable switched power)
it does drive fine, if not a bit slow. Once it gets up to speed, cruising at 80 isn't an issue. It's funny, you never notice the dash light issue sure - they're on, but really not noticeable.
I think I'll weld the flanges together then use a V-band to make it removeable. I spent some quality time on this trying to find the noise... hope it's it. Otherwise, this may go do its purpose this week.... Colorado needs some love (after all, she put 75,000 miles on it since she got it last March)... so this goes back into service. Still have several things to do but none of them prevent it from being used while doing that stuff:
- for those curious-
- back 1/2 bench
- install the zero breeze battery
- install a charge plug on the outside
- turn off the dash lights
things I'll do before it leaves
- coolant reservoir (oops, forgot that)
- exhaust leak
- shore power plug
- straighten steering wheel
- figure out backup camera
- and most importantly, figure out why I'm getting a 3597 code (unstable switched power)
it does drive fine, if not a bit slow. Once it gets up to speed, cruising at 80 isn't an issue. It's funny, you never notice the dash light issue sure - they're on, but really not noticeable.
superbuickguy
Explorer
if I can't turn them off with HPTuners, I'll paint them black 
Wiring
switched a wire and now have a master switch
off
on
and now with a cover
as the top doesn't leak enough.... a new hole
for shore power
and riveted in place
and we need a seat in back
so why a cooler seat?
whip up a couple brackets
just need to strap it down and craft a couple cushions
Wiring
switched a wire and now have a master switch
off
on
and now with a cover
as the top doesn't leak enough.... a new hole
for shore power
and riveted in place
and we need a seat in back
so why a cooler seat?
whip up a couple brackets
just need to strap it down and craft a couple cushions
superbuickguy
Explorer
new Sandpoint shop... at least, temp shop. done vehicles are there, this one is next to travel this week
but first, fix an exhaust leak
with a v-band
then install an overflow bottle
and PCV line
and finally install the cooler/seat
pad comes later this week.... then onto the trailer and northbound.
but first, fix an exhaust leak
with a v-band
then install an overflow bottle
and PCV line
and finally install the cooler/seat
pad comes later this week.... then onto the trailer and northbound.
superbuickguy
Explorer
Soooo
long story short, bottom end sounds like it's losing a rod cap.
Took it to Cummins to diagnose the throttle issue and an electrical gremlin. Both were more installer error.... but when they got done, suddenly it had a rod knock.
We thought it was coming from the transmission.... it's not
ATM it's parked, I'm so disgusted with this thing that I frankly don't want to look at it. I'll get back to it but tomorrow will be the fun of finding out how to get a new motor under warranty.... wish me luck
long story short, bottom end sounds like it's losing a rod cap.
Took it to Cummins to diagnose the throttle issue and an electrical gremlin. Both were more installer error.... but when they got done, suddenly it had a rod knock.
We thought it was coming from the transmission.... it's not
ATM it's parked, I'm so disgusted with this thing that I frankly don't want to look at it. I'll get back to it but tomorrow will be the fun of finding out how to get a new motor under warranty.... wish me luck
superbuickguy
Explorer
I'm not buying another r2.8.... I'd rather buy nothing (or even better, find a new way to make a spun bearing noise).... but this is the 2.8's chance.
With that said, there is a 3rd possibility which channels my inner Vice Grip Garage.... but we won't mention that yet.
superbuickguy
Explorer
pictures
started with a clean pan
but wait, no fuzzies
there is no airgap .... ugh, all the worry for nothing
For those who wonder what this looks like installed
I know it looks like it fills the space, thing is, to not have to shorten driveshafts, enlargen the tunnel, and figure out a new shifter for the tr-4050... the motor is at least 4" forward.... that said, it does take a lot of width
started with a clean pan
but wait, no fuzzies
there is no airgap .... ugh, all the worry for nothing
For those who wonder what this looks like installed
I know it looks like it fills the space, thing is, to not have to shorten driveshafts, enlargen the tunnel, and figure out a new shifter for the tr-4050... the motor is at least 4" forward.... that said, it does take a lot of width
superbuickguy
Explorer
under 'rattle reduction' this was added
right here
right here
