Scott B.'s 2015 AC Build - Expo Style

Scott B.

SE Expedition Society
12V Anytime Mod

This mod is really simple to do - once you pull the dash apart...

I have read the various threads on doing this, but no one had done it on a 2015. I assumed that the wiring is the same across the years, but I verified the circuit just to be safe.

For those that are curious about the circuit, here is what I determined. Starting at the under-dash fuse block, there is a fuse and a relay for this circuit. From there, the circuit goes to the power ports. As far as I could tell, the only devices on the circuit are the 2 power ports on the dash.

This mod replaces the relay with a wire, eliminating the switching functionality. In other words, you don't need the key on to have power at the power ports.

First thing to do is pull the dash apart, and unbolt the fuse block to get to the other side.

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I pulled out the relay (blue box) and made a jumper wire.

v1.jpg

Then, just put the jumper wire across the switch legs of the relay.

v2.jpg

Putting the dash back together is easier than pulling it apart.

Now devices can run and be charged without the key!
 

Scott B.

SE Expedition Society
Tailgate Reinforcement

Between all I've read about the Tacoma tailgates easily bending, and sitting on the uncomfortable ribbed plastic tailgate cover, I decided to upgrade the tailgate cover.

Looking around, I found Mobtown Offroad was having a sale. I ordered the tailgate reinforcement skin and cap. I did not order their hardware kit, as I had some leftover rivnuts from my sleeping platform install as well as the installation tool.

Here are the parts, as delivered

t1.jpg

And the mounting hardware - pan head 1/4-20 bolts, rivnuts, backing washers

t2.jpg

To begin, remove everything from the tailgate, including the plastic nuts the cover screws go into. All the nut holes get drilled out to accept the rivnuts. I also cleaned all the dirt/dust out of the tailgate.

t3.jpg

The tailgate skin came with some insulation tape, but not enough to cover the entire tailgate. I finished the job with some pipe insulation tape I had on hand. I also put some sound deadening on the inside of the tailgate. At the very least, it makes the tailgate sound less tinny when closing.

Here, the rivnuts are installed.

t4.jpg

I have been using a Bedrug tailgate rug, and wanted to use it with the new skin. However, it did not want to mount the same way. I ended up sewing bias tape on the top edge (it did not have any from the factory) and sewing Velcro to the back of the Bedrug, and sticking Velcro to the tailgate skin.

Works great!

t5.jpg
 

Scott B.

SE Expedition Society
Skid Plates, cont.

I had to modify the transfer case skid plate with the new exhaust. As you can see from the pictures, the main (combined) exhaust pipe doesn't get to the right side of the vehicle until the back of the cab, so the relief cut in the PelfryBilt skid plate was in the wrong place.

sk1.jpg

sk2.jpg

And a nice view of all 3 plates, clean and oiled. Obviously, this didn't last long...

sk3.jpg
 

Scott B.

SE Expedition Society
Headrest Mod

The headrests on the front seats have (had) a very forward lean. I assume it is a new government regulation "designed to keep us safe" in the event of an accident. (Not going to debate the merits of government regulations...)

The problem, however, is since I like to keep the seatback in a fairly vertical position (the upright seatback is much safer than a reclined seatback in an accident) the headrest pushed my head forward when driving - very uncomfortable. I have read others complaining about the same thing.

The solution was quite simple - bend them back a few degrees. OK, easier said than done. The headrest frame is quite strong. However, by clamping the vertical support in a vice, and carefully putting all my weight into it, I was able to bend each leg, and re-position the rests to a more upright position.

In this picture, the driver side seat has been re-positioned, the passenger side has not.

h1.jpg
 

MightyP

Observer
Absolutely love your build! Very functional and clean. And... Your fuse block is exactly what I've been looking for but wasn't sure what it was called. I still need to do a little more research, but will likely just copy you.

Thanks and keep up the good work.
 

Wasatch

Observer
Love the look of that exhaust. What's the part number on the Magnaflow system? Did it come with the resonator, or did you add it separately?
 

Scott B.

SE Expedition Society
Absolutely love your build! Very functional and clean. And... Your fuse block is exactly what I've been looking for but wasn't sure what it was called. I still need to do a little more research, but will likely just copy you.

Thanks and keep up the good work.

Thank you.

I really like the Blue Sea products - good quality, and should last a lifetime.

Love the look of that exhaust. What's the part number on the Magnaflow system? Did it come with the resonator, or did you add it separately?

It is not a Magnaflow system - only the muffler is a Magnaflow part.

The system is built by Underdog Racing Development. Yes, it came with the resonator.
 

Scott B.

SE Expedition Society
Transmission Cooling, Part 1

Heat and dirt kill automatic transmissions. Our trucks have small external coolers and minimal filtration. In an effort to extend the service life of my transmission, especially since I tow a trailer off-road, I made a couple of simple changes/improvements to Toyota's sealed transmission system.

Part 1 replaces the factory transmission oil cooler with a much larger one. The larger cooler has a greatly increased fluid cooling capacity, which will yield lower operating temperatures. Permanent internal damage to an automatic transmission can start to occur at a fluid temperature of 220 degrees, and does occur at a temperature of 240 degrees. Towing a trailer, slow going off-road, even sitting in traffic all load the transmission, which increases fluid temperature. Aside from decreasing the load on the transmission, the best way to lower the fluid temperature is to increase the size of the cooler.

Here you can see the factory cooler (under the horns)

t4.jpg

I picked up a bigger cooler from Derale

t1.jpg

To mount the new cooler, I fabricated mounting brackets from aluminum flat bar. I used one factory threaded hole, and drilled three new holes.

t2.jpg

Testing the cooler fit

t3.jpg

The finished product. I moved the horns to the passenger side.

t5.jpg

Plumbing was simple - a direct replacement of the factory cooler plumbing. I just used the longer hose that came with the new cooler.

Unfortunately, I do not have my transmission temperature gauge plumbed and wired yet, so I don't know exactly how much cooler the fluid is.
 

Scott B.

SE Expedition Society
ABS OFF (Kill) Switch

I have done a lot reading on the forums about the Tacoma's something-to-be-desired ABS system. While never having had an issue with it (yet), I decided to install a kill switch anyway.

I procured a switch from Air On Board to fit in the center console (next to the USB/Aux stereo port). Since my truck does not have VSC and the electric locker, I was able to do this mod the easy way - all I had to do was break the green wire. However, the switch was not a simple open/closed switch. I decided to use a relay.

Simply put, +12V goes to the switch. When pushed, the switch sends +12V to the relay, activating it. The green wire of the ABS is wired across the relay, in the NC (normally closed) position. Switch off, relay closed, ABS functions. Switch on, relay open, ABS circuit open, ABS do not function. As an added bonus, I tapped into the light circuit to illuminate the logo on the switch when the lights are on.

First thing to do was find the green wire:

a1.jpg

As you can see, for 2015, the IA4 connector is now white, instead of blue.

I cut the ABS wire, and put connectors on the ends. The connectors serve 2 purposes - first, they allow quick and easy connection to the wires going to the relay. Second, they allow me to reconnect the green wire, to back to stock.

Next, I built a wiring harness:

a2.jpg

The green connector to the right goes to the switch. The black piece at the top is the relay, plugged into a yellow socket. The other wires are power, lights and ground. The ABS green wires attach to the short light blue connectors coming off the relay.

Hook up the wires and pop the switch in:

a3.jpg

Simple and works great.

OK, simple yes - but it took a few hours to complete. Everything I have read about this did not include a 2015 truck - so I guessed about the wire. Once I cut it, I spent time verifying it was the correct wire. Building the wiring harness took some time, too - I wanted the wires to be the correct length, so that meant multiple trips between the workbench and under the dash. And then tie-wrapping everything in place.

One more project off the list!!!!!
 

Scott B.

SE Expedition Society
Flags

Like most of you, I peruse build threads. I get a lot of ideas from them, and either use (steel?) them directly, or modify the idea for my use. I know - we all do that.

That being said, I've seen this mod on many other trucks, and really, really like it.

So, thanks to the folks at Far North by Design, I have a set of matte black die-cut American flag stickers on my doors - and they look great!

Before:

f1.jpg

I used the infamous blue tape to position the flags. The tape made it fairly easy to place the flags in the same position on each door.

f2.jpg

Here it is!

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Close up:

f4.jpg

And the passenger side:

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They look great!
 

Scott B.

SE Expedition Society
Raising the Roof

I originally purchased a cab-hi shell thinking that it provide enough room inside and decent aerodynamics outside - the best of both worlds, if you will.

Unfortunately, with the sleeping platform in the bed, inside room was compromised. There was room for gear, and actually enough room to sleep (but not sit up). But, there was not a lot of excess room, and the low top of the door limited any large objects fitting back there.

A friend of ours bought a 2016 Tacoma and put a hi-rise shell on their truck. After seeing it, and contemplating a while, the ARE went up for sale and a SnugTop was put on order.

I am a big fan of ARE products, and initially looked at their hi-rise model. I also looked at Leer models. Each had minor details that I didn't care for. I looked at SnugTop, and decided that it was the way go.

Unfortunately, the closet dealer was 8 hours away, in Missouri. Decided to go with one anyway - if I am changing the shell, I may as well get exactly what I really want. Besides, what's an 8 hour drive? I travel west once or twice a year, so I am not exactly un-familiar with driving...

Before the trip to pick up the shell, I had to prep the truck. Remove the shell, and remove the sleeping platform. It is amazing how much desert dust accumulated under the platform. I need to seal the tailgate better...

s1.jpg

Taking weight off the back end allowed the springs to relax more, raising the truck an inch or two.

Here it is, at Mid-America Truck Tops. The owner told me he has sold toppers to someone in every state east of the Mississippi. I guess I'm not the only crazy one!

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Taking weight off the back end allowed the springs to relax more, raising the truck an inch or two.

Here it is, at Mid-America Truck Tops. The owner told me he has sold toppers to someone in every state east of the Mississippi. I guess I'm not the only crazy one!

s4.jpg

Overall, I am very happy with the new shell. It makes the truck look "bigger".

Now, to re-install the sleeping platform...
 
Good looking build Scott!

How do you like the URD exhaust? I've been trying to decide on going with a TRD exhaust or something like what you got. At highway speeds is it fairly quiet? (Relative to our AC cab noise already! :p)
 

Scott B.

SE Expedition Society
Good looking build Scott!

How do you like the URD exhaust? I've been trying to decide on going with a TRD exhaust or something like what you got. At highway speeds is it fairly quiet? (Relative to our AC cab noise already! :p)

Thanks.

I like the exhaust - it has a good sound. Quiet at highway speeds while cruising, and you can hear it when you want to climb a hill or pass someone. Also, it is a tad louder when I am pulling the trailer.

The system is well built, fits great, looks good, and does not go under the transfer case. If the sound bothers me, I just turn up the stereo! ;)
 

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