BentBomber
www.bomberproducts.com
Great looking truck. Similar to the direction I'm heading. I'll stay glued to my screen for updates!
Scott B.'s 2015 AC Build - Expo Style
- Thread starter Scott B.
- Start date
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
They ride nice. Firm, but not jolting. I have not ridden in many other trucks with other suspensions, so I can't make any comparisons. I am happy with them though.
BentBomber
www.bomberproducts.com
I do not. Been thinking of starting one, but just haven't gotten to it.
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
Interior Auxiliary Wiring
I am planning to add electronic accessories to the cab of the truck (radios, gauges, switches, etc.) The first thing to do is add additional circuits.
I am using a Blue Sea Systems fuse block, model 5032. This block has 2 groups of 6 circuits each and 12 ground points. I will wire it as 6 switched (with the ignition) and 6 constant power. I could have used 2 smaller blocks and achieved the same thing, but since I had the room, I decided on the single block.
My initial thought was to mount it under the dash. I found 2 problems with that plan - there is not a lot of room to mount a fuse block where you can easily get to it to add wiring, and being upside down while under the dash is not as easy and it used to be...
I decided to the mount the block in the storage bin under the driver's side AC rear seat (which has been removed.) Once a location was picked, I built several wiring harnesses, and routed them through the truck.
Here, you can see the fuse block with the various harnesses attached:
And a close-up of the block:
The single wires in the center of the block are the feeds (source power feeding the block) and the wires on the side are the new circuits.
Wires routed out of storage compartment:
A convenient opening in the structure:
The harness(es) going forward along the door sill:
I had to get bigger grommets...
The fuse block mounted:
I took the constant power from the under hood fuse block instead of directly to the battery. Doing so hides the wire. (I am not on a fused circuit.)
The switched power comes out of the under-dash fuse block. Not my preferred solution, but I really didn't want to pull the entire dash apart to find a switched source.
The second wire here picks up the lights - powered when the lights are on. I will use this for my gauge lights.
Here, you can see the other end of the wiring harness. Each wire is attached to a terminal strip, which is Velcro'ed to the carpet. (Quick and dirty, but it works fine.)
Now, whatever I need power for, I just run a wire to the terminal strip, plug a fuse in the corresponding spot in the block, and I am good to go!
I am planning to add electronic accessories to the cab of the truck (radios, gauges, switches, etc.) The first thing to do is add additional circuits.
I am using a Blue Sea Systems fuse block, model 5032. This block has 2 groups of 6 circuits each and 12 ground points. I will wire it as 6 switched (with the ignition) and 6 constant power. I could have used 2 smaller blocks and achieved the same thing, but since I had the room, I decided on the single block.
My initial thought was to mount it under the dash. I found 2 problems with that plan - there is not a lot of room to mount a fuse block where you can easily get to it to add wiring, and being upside down while under the dash is not as easy and it used to be...
I decided to the mount the block in the storage bin under the driver's side AC rear seat (which has been removed.) Once a location was picked, I built several wiring harnesses, and routed them through the truck.
Here, you can see the fuse block with the various harnesses attached:
And a close-up of the block:
The single wires in the center of the block are the feeds (source power feeding the block) and the wires on the side are the new circuits.
Wires routed out of storage compartment:
A convenient opening in the structure:
The harness(es) going forward along the door sill:
I had to get bigger grommets...
The fuse block mounted:
I took the constant power from the under hood fuse block instead of directly to the battery. Doing so hides the wire. (I am not on a fused circuit.)
The switched power comes out of the under-dash fuse block. Not my preferred solution, but I really didn't want to pull the entire dash apart to find a switched source.
The second wire here picks up the lights - powered when the lights are on. I will use this for my gauge lights.
Here, you can see the other end of the wiring harness. Each wire is attached to a terminal strip, which is Velcro'ed to the carpet. (Quick and dirty, but it works fine.)
Now, whatever I need power for, I just run a wire to the terminal strip, plug a fuse in the corresponding spot in the block, and I am good to go!
wreckdiver1321
Overlander
Clean looking wiring! I like it a lot. Nice work.
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
Thank you.
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
Transmission Maintenance
I like to change my transmission fluid every 15 - 20 K miles. I know Toyota says ours is a sealed system, never requiring maintenance, but I am old school - fluid gets old and dirty, which contributes to wear and performance issues.
A normal service is to drop the pan, drain the fluid, change the filter, and refill. This nets approximately 1/3 of the fluid being changed, along with a new filter and a clean pan. Maintenance like this will keep an automatic transmission happy for many, many miles.
First, I acquired a filter (Toyota calls it a strainer) and gasket
I am a big fan of Fel-Pro gaskets.
Close-up of the part numbers for reference
Once the pan was off, I cleaned out all the clutch and band particulate matter. Here is the pan, cleaned. The little squares are magnets. I cleaned those off, too.
Here is a shot of the transmission without the pan, if anyone is curious as to what the trans looks like.
All in all, a very simple job.
I like to change my transmission fluid every 15 - 20 K miles. I know Toyota says ours is a sealed system, never requiring maintenance, but I am old school - fluid gets old and dirty, which contributes to wear and performance issues.
A normal service is to drop the pan, drain the fluid, change the filter, and refill. This nets approximately 1/3 of the fluid being changed, along with a new filter and a clean pan. Maintenance like this will keep an automatic transmission happy for many, many miles.
First, I acquired a filter (Toyota calls it a strainer) and gasket
I am a big fan of Fel-Pro gaskets.
Close-up of the part numbers for reference
Once the pan was off, I cleaned out all the clutch and band particulate matter. Here is the pan, cleaned. The little squares are magnets. I cleaned those off, too.
Here is a shot of the transmission without the pan, if anyone is curious as to what the trans looks like.
All in all, a very simple job.
Last edited:
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
Console Organizer
Another great idea I found on TW (sorry, I don't remember who came up with the original idea) is an organizer attached to the bottom of the center console lid.
I have the Salex organizers in the console - the Grid-It is a perfect addition.
Attached with Velcro
I had to make 2 small notches in the edge to clear the lid hinges.
Couldn't be any easier!
Another great idea I found on TW (sorry, I don't remember who came up with the original idea) is an organizer attached to the bottom of the center console lid.
I have the Salex organizers in the console - the Grid-It is a perfect addition.
Attached with Velcro
I had to make 2 small notches in the edge to clear the lid hinges.
Couldn't be any easier!
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
Exhaust Upgrade
After a lot of reading, contemplating and figuring, I came up with a long-term solution to my exhaust.
I needed a solution that moved the crossover pipe from under the crossmember now, and provided adequate exhaust flow for future mods.
The solution is a URD exhaust.
This system removes the rear-most catalytic converters, providing equal-length y-pipes. I am still running the forward cats, so the O2 sensors are happy. Beyond that, there is a hefty Magnaflow muffler and resonator plumbed with large pipe. And it looks really nice!
It is shipped very compactly
Here is it, laid out in order
Compared to the factory setup
Installation was very straightforward. I did it by myself in a couple of hours, going slow.
Now my transfer case skid plate will fit!
After a lot of reading, contemplating and figuring, I came up with a long-term solution to my exhaust.
I needed a solution that moved the crossover pipe from under the crossmember now, and provided adequate exhaust flow for future mods.
The solution is a URD exhaust.
This system removes the rear-most catalytic converters, providing equal-length y-pipes. I am still running the forward cats, so the O2 sensors are happy. Beyond that, there is a hefty Magnaflow muffler and resonator plumbed with large pipe. And it looks really nice!
It is shipped very compactly
Here is it, laid out in order
Compared to the factory setup
Installation was very straightforward. I did it by myself in a couple of hours, going slow.
Now my transfer case skid plate will fit!
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
Yes, that is correct.
URD uses the extra length gained from the 2 rear-most cats to create an equal-length y-pipe with gentle bends.
That's some nice wiring work you did on the fuse block. I am really liking the sleeving you used. I just got done wiring up an auxiliary battery to my Tacoma and used the split loom. After the install I noticed I have too many accessories hooked straight to the battery terminal so a fuse block or two will be necessary in the near future. Thumbs up for another access cab build!
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
I like this sleeving. It can be a pain to install, but once installed, the harness is very nice and easy to handle.
I have used the split loom on other projects, and I don't dislike it (it is much easier to install.)
I still need to put my 2nd battery in the bed...