SportsmanJake
Adventurer
Love the build. I look forward to seeing your viair-ARB setup.
Scott B.'s 2015 AC Build - Expo Style
- Thread starter Scott B.
- Start date
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
Rear Shocks
To match the front Bilstein 6112s, I decided to run 5165 reservoir shocks on the back. After lots of measuring, I found what I think are the longest I can run while retaining adequate compression travel.
The 5160 that fits the Tacoma is not very long - it is designed for stock suspension lift and travel. Since I am running more lift, and will get more travel from my springs, I needed a longer shock. However, none of the longer shocks have a post-style top mount.
I have to change the upper shock mount. I found one option - BAMF. They make an extended mount, allowing for a longer than stock length shock, with the correct upper mount. However, their setup moves the top of the shock outboard (to clear the bed inner fender) almost requiring the use of wheel spacers. I ordered one, but they were backordered. I ended up canceling my order since I needed a solution before my Parashant trip.
I devised a solution, but was unable to complete it in time for my trip. So, as a temporary solution, I picked up a set of adapters. (The only problem with these is the reduction of 2" of compression travel.)
But, they worked for the trip.
I found these really cool and functional reservoir mounting brackets - and they were not that expensive!
The shocks are on, and work great.
The new custom-made extended upper mounts are in process - pictures when they are complete.
To match the front Bilstein 6112s, I decided to run 5165 reservoir shocks on the back. After lots of measuring, I found what I think are the longest I can run while retaining adequate compression travel.
The 5160 that fits the Tacoma is not very long - it is designed for stock suspension lift and travel. Since I am running more lift, and will get more travel from my springs, I needed a longer shock. However, none of the longer shocks have a post-style top mount.
I have to change the upper shock mount. I found one option - BAMF. They make an extended mount, allowing for a longer than stock length shock, with the correct upper mount. However, their setup moves the top of the shock outboard (to clear the bed inner fender) almost requiring the use of wheel spacers. I ordered one, but they were backordered. I ended up canceling my order since I needed a solution before my Parashant trip.
I devised a solution, but was unable to complete it in time for my trip. So, as a temporary solution, I picked up a set of adapters. (The only problem with these is the reduction of 2" of compression travel.)
But, they worked for the trip.
I found these really cool and functional reservoir mounting brackets - and they were not that expensive!
The shocks are on, and work great.
The new custom-made extended upper mounts are in process - pictures when they are complete.
Last edited:
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
Lift Blocks
My expedition-rated rear springs were not carrying the weight as good as I wanted them to. The rear end of the truck sagged a little bit.
I could have lowered the front to even things out, but I really didn't want the truck to sit any lower. Besides, the lower height was eating into my up travel space.
I decided to build a set of lift blocks. While not the perfect solution, these would take care of most of problem. Yes, I won't get any addition up travel.
I used aluminum - 1" on the passenger side, 1 1/4" on the driver side.
After cutting to length, I drilled holes in the center.
Holes bored to proper size. If you look close at the right side one, you can see a stepped hole. The larger diameter allows the spring bolt head to slide in, and the smaller diameter allows the steel pin to be pressed in place.
Pins pressed in.
New 5/8" u-bolts.
Installed.
I also installed a set of Wheeler's bumpstops.
My expedition-rated rear springs were not carrying the weight as good as I wanted them to. The rear end of the truck sagged a little bit.
I could have lowered the front to even things out, but I really didn't want the truck to sit any lower. Besides, the lower height was eating into my up travel space.
I decided to build a set of lift blocks. While not the perfect solution, these would take care of most of problem. Yes, I won't get any addition up travel.
I used aluminum - 1" on the passenger side, 1 1/4" on the driver side.
After cutting to length, I drilled holes in the center.
Holes bored to proper size. If you look close at the right side one, you can see a stepped hole. The larger diameter allows the spring bolt head to slide in, and the smaller diameter allows the steel pin to be pressed in place.
Pins pressed in.
New 5/8" u-bolts.
Installed.
I also installed a set of Wheeler's bumpstops.
Last edited:
brianjwilson
Some sort of lost...
Those aluminum skid plates sure look nice!
What made you go with Deavers rather than allpro expedition leafs?
Good reminder on the CV boots too. I've had an assortment of hose clamps to do the same thing, for quite a while. Actually I have a handful of small misc items that I haven't been able to get to for months....
What made you go with Deavers rather than allpro expedition leafs?
Good reminder on the CV boots too. I've had an assortment of hose clamps to do the same thing, for quite a while. Actually I have a handful of small misc items that I haven't been able to get to for months....
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
I ran Deavers on my Ranger, and really liked them. They handle weight well, ride nice and flex when needed. My truck is also heavier than standard (though not as heavy as yours) and wanted a spring tuned to my specific weight, not a generic "guess".
brianjwilson
Some sort of lost...
Gotcha, was just curious. I didn't think your truck was all that heavy, but obviously I understand wanting to get it just right!
brianjwilson
Some sort of lost...
Your not even at gross weight yet! 
Thinking back to my ranger, I'm pretty sure it ran around right at gross weight most of the time too. Weight adds up quick!
Thinking back to my ranger, I'm pretty sure it ran around right at gross weight most of the time too. Weight adds up quick!
socalktk
New member
I love this set up and how you built it. Looking to do something similar down the line.
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
It's working really well - very happy with it.
MJCake1
Member
That's one of the first things I did. Reroute the exhaust that is. Toyota engineers ******?
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
Martinjmpr
Wiffleball Batter
.
:Wow1: Dang my 4runner weighed out at 4500, although that was without all the gear in it.
.
For reference the curb weight on my Suburban is 5474 according to Edmunds.
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
Antennas, Communication
I installed 2 communication antennas, one for CB radio and one for ham radio. For CB, I selected a K40 antenna, and for ham, a Laird NMO mount. Both antennas were mounted through the roof.
I like the roof mount for several reasons. On the roof, the antennas are high off the ground, and not obstructed by any of the metal body. The higher the antenna, the farther the transmitted signal will travel. Also, roof mounted antennas are in the center of the vehicle, yielding the most uniform/even transmission pattern. Using the radio off-road, an omni-directional pattern is preferred. (Over the road trucks, with their dual antennas, prefer a more uni-directional pattern.)
Here's what I installed:
K40
Laird NMO:
On to the installation. First remove the headliner. On these trucks, you start removing the headliner by removing the door sills....
I like to add a backing plate under the thin roof sheet metal. Extra material to carry the load when the antenna hits tree limbs and such.
Backing plates:
I used 1/8" aluminum for the K40 backing plate, and thinner aluminum for the NMO mount. I had to modify the K40 to use the thick plate. Unfortunately, the NMO did not allow for a thicker plate. But, something is better than nothing.
Here's an expanded view of the K40:
I also added Part # 1 - a 1/8" thick rubber washer. Part # 3 needed to be shortened to allow for the plate and washer.
Using a chassis punch, I punched 2 holes in the perfectly good roof:
Assembled:
Now to put the interior back together!
I installed 2 communication antennas, one for CB radio and one for ham radio. For CB, I selected a K40 antenna, and for ham, a Laird NMO mount. Both antennas were mounted through the roof.
I like the roof mount for several reasons. On the roof, the antennas are high off the ground, and not obstructed by any of the metal body. The higher the antenna, the farther the transmitted signal will travel. Also, roof mounted antennas are in the center of the vehicle, yielding the most uniform/even transmission pattern. Using the radio off-road, an omni-directional pattern is preferred. (Over the road trucks, with their dual antennas, prefer a more uni-directional pattern.)
Here's what I installed:
K40
Laird NMO:
On to the installation. First remove the headliner. On these trucks, you start removing the headliner by removing the door sills....
I like to add a backing plate under the thin roof sheet metal. Extra material to carry the load when the antenna hits tree limbs and such.
Backing plates:
I used 1/8" aluminum for the K40 backing plate, and thinner aluminum for the NMO mount. I had to modify the K40 to use the thick plate. Unfortunately, the NMO did not allow for a thicker plate. But, something is better than nothing.
Here's an expanded view of the K40:
I also added Part # 1 - a 1/8" thick rubber washer. Part # 3 needed to be shortened to allow for the plate and washer.
Using a chassis punch, I punched 2 holes in the perfectly good roof:
Assembled:
Now to put the interior back together!