Scott B.'s 2015 AC Build - Expo Style
- Thread starter Scott B.
- Start date
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
Sound Deadening
I started adding sound deadening to the inside of the cab. I added it to the roof and back panel, since I had to pull the headliner and back panel to install the antennas.
I used RAAMmat and Ensolite from RAAM Audio. I have used this product before, and been happy with results, so I chose RAAM for this truck also.
The bare interior panels:
I applied the mat, going for a 90+ % coverage. I really don't think 100% coverage is any/much better than 90%, so I saved some effort.
The mat installed:
And the Ensolite:
This Ensolite is peel-and-stick - really easy to install!
I started adding sound deadening to the inside of the cab. I added it to the roof and back panel, since I had to pull the headliner and back panel to install the antennas.
I used RAAMmat and Ensolite from RAAM Audio. I have used this product before, and been happy with results, so I chose RAAM for this truck also.
The bare interior panels:
I applied the mat, going for a 90+ % coverage. I really don't think 100% coverage is any/much better than 90%, so I saved some effort.
The mat installed:
And the Ensolite:
This Ensolite is peel-and-stick - really easy to install!
Martinjmpr
Wiffleball Batter
Scott, did you finally get your amateur license?
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
Not yet. But I am planning to, and really didn't want to pull the headliner out twice.
Once the entire vehicle is done, there is a difference. It is not soundproof, but it does make long drives nicer by quieting down a lot of the road noise.
Is it worth it? I am planning on keeping this truck for many years, so yes, I think it is.
thethePete
Explorer
^ The heavy matting isn't generally intended for 100% coverage anyway, contrary to popular application methodology. It's intended to add mass to a panel and keep it from vibrating. Many vehicles have a patch of it on the door skin to keep it from sounding like a tin can when you close the door. Your 90% application is more than enough for it to do what it's intended to do.
Following with interest as this is almost the same transition I'm making in the next year, except I'm going into a DC. I need 4 full doors for my growing family, the extended cab Ranger isn't really cutting it anymore.
Following with interest as this is almost the same transition I'm making in the next year, except I'm going into a DC. I need 4 full doors for my growing family, the extended cab Ranger isn't really cutting it anymore.
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
Sound Deadening, continued...
Time to do the floor.
I gutted the interior, and laid down mat and Ensolite, just like the roof and back wall.
Mat installed. Here you can see where I cut the mat around the factory drain plugs/holes.
Ensolite installed. I decided not to cut out for the drain holes. Ensolite is soft enough, in the rare event I need to get to a plug, it will be easy to find.
Now to put it all back together!
Time to do the floor.
I gutted the interior, and laid down mat and Ensolite, just like the roof and back wall.
Mat installed. Here you can see where I cut the mat around the factory drain plugs/holes.
Ensolite installed. I decided not to cut out for the drain holes. Ensolite is soft enough, in the rare event I need to get to a plug, it will be easy to find.
Now to put it all back together!
Last edited:
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
Engine Block Heater
I added an engine block heater. While I do not live in a cold climate, there are mornings that start below freezing. I also travel to snowy/cold climates.
The heater is not a required option, rather a "nice to have" one. Warm oil flows better (faster) through the engine, warm water heats (expands) the various metal components in the engine, getting the pieces to required clearances faster. In other words, the engine sees less wear.
Is the wear significant or negligible? That is a subject of great debate (not to be covered here.) I have been running block heaters for over 20 years, and figured I'd just continue.
Besides, I get warm air out of the heater faster!
I decided to use the Toyota heater, vs. a standard replace a freeze plug style. Since the block was designed for it, why not? The best part was I didn't have to drain the coolant to install it.
The only issue I had was a bracket holding the O2 sensor wire - it was right in the way. And, the 17mm bolt holding it to the engine was waaaay to tight.
Otherwise, nothing to the installation.
(No pictures of the installed unit - you can't really see it.)
I added an engine block heater. While I do not live in a cold climate, there are mornings that start below freezing. I also travel to snowy/cold climates.
The heater is not a required option, rather a "nice to have" one. Warm oil flows better (faster) through the engine, warm water heats (expands) the various metal components in the engine, getting the pieces to required clearances faster. In other words, the engine sees less wear.
Is the wear significant or negligible? That is a subject of great debate (not to be covered here.) I have been running block heaters for over 20 years, and figured I'd just continue.
Besides, I get warm air out of the heater faster!
I decided to use the Toyota heater, vs. a standard replace a freeze plug style. Since the block was designed for it, why not? The best part was I didn't have to drain the coolant to install it.
The only issue I had was a bracket holding the O2 sensor wire - it was right in the way. And, the 17mm bolt holding it to the engine was waaaay to tight.
Otherwise, nothing to the installation.
(No pictures of the installed unit - you can't really see it.)
mjmcdowell
Explorer
I just.....
Wow! Scott you have been very busy! Uh.... not as many mods as you however I did install mud flaps to save the body a bit from small rocks etc. I have new steps also so my wife can get in easier, metal, mounted higher, and not as wide. Cheaper than the plastic junk that came with the truck if I had to go that way again and....... they are OEM Ford! Much better, no flex when I bounce on them, should hold up better to my judgment in clearance errors, Ha! Oh, just let me know when and where to meet here in the East to start the trip...... I will meet you then, this will be a good trip! Michael :wings:
Wow! Scott you have been very busy! Uh.... not as many mods as you however I did install mud flaps to save the body a bit from small rocks etc. I have new steps also so my wife can get in easier, metal, mounted higher, and not as wide. Cheaper than the plastic junk that came with the truck if I had to go that way again and....... they are OEM Ford! Much better, no flex when I bounce on them, should hold up better to my judgment in clearance errors, Ha! Oh, just let me know when and where to meet here in the East to start the trip...... I will meet you then, this will be a good trip! Michael :wings:
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
Parts are starting to pile up in the garage:
I was working on fitting the sliders, when I realized I would need to modify the frame bracket to allow for the transfer case skid plate. No problem, except I can't mount the skid plate until I reroute the exhaust. After lots of studying, I have determined a solution. Stay tuned.
I ordered a PelfreyBilt standard bumper, but had them do something a little different. This bumper has dual (as in 2) swing out pivots. Since I tow a trailer (seen in the background) a full width swing out would not clear the trailer now that I have a tongue box and fuel cans mounted on the trailer. So, I am going to build my own swing outs.
I was working on fitting the sliders, when I realized I would need to modify the frame bracket to allow for the transfer case skid plate. No problem, except I can't mount the skid plate until I reroute the exhaust. After lots of studying, I have determined a solution. Stay tuned.
I ordered a PelfreyBilt standard bumper, but had them do something a little different. This bumper has dual (as in 2) swing out pivots. Since I tow a trailer (seen in the background) a full width swing out would not clear the trailer now that I have a tongue box and fuel cans mounted on the trailer. So, I am going to build my own swing outs.
Scott B.
SE Expedition Society
I picked up some new recovery gear.
Gator Jaws
I saw these in use at the Appalachian Rendezvous last year. It is amazing how strong they are, and being not made of steel, much safer in the event of a recovery system failure.
Hitchlink II
I used to put the end of a 2" strap in my receiver and secure it with a pin. Worked fine to pull or be pulled. However, now that I have switched to recovery ropes, using this technique can lead to a bent pin in the receiver.
I picked the Factor 55 Hitchlink II because of its light weight (and obvious build quality.) With all the gear I carry in my truck, I figure ounces saved leads to pounds...
Unfortunately, it is not going to stay that pretty with use.
Gator Jaws
I saw these in use at the Appalachian Rendezvous last year. It is amazing how strong they are, and being not made of steel, much safer in the event of a recovery system failure.
Hitchlink II
I used to put the end of a 2" strap in my receiver and secure it with a pin. Worked fine to pull or be pulled. However, now that I have switched to recovery ropes, using this technique can lead to a bent pin in the receiver.
I picked the Factor 55 Hitchlink II because of its light weight (and obvious build quality.) With all the gear I carry in my truck, I figure ounces saved leads to pounds...
Unfortunately, it is not going to stay that pretty with use.