Scoutkid's van is HERE!!!

[scoutkid]

When mine does that, I'm going fuel bowl delete and putting a filter underneath. It's bad enough changing the filter.

You just made me spend $1500. Thanks a lot.....


Tomorrow I'm going to my local favorite diesel shop - getting schooled up in proper fuel systems! Don't be surprised if you see bit of fuel system tech pop up!

I can't BELIEVE I let this slip my mind! It was always on my 'want' list, but I was so focused on just fixing the stock stuff that I forgot 'tis better to UPGRADE!!! :sombrero:

 

[arz]

always happy to suggest awesome ways to spend someone else's money. :victory:



Missed you a couple weeks ago. had your seat swivels in my pickemup and was in your neck of the woods. You still want them, right?

 

[Ozrockrat]

Spending that sort of money for a fuel bowl delete is a bit overboard.

For the sake of a few feet of hose and $10 worth of O-Rings you can have the existing system still in place. Then put in a set of prefilters with a lift pump that you change regularly. The filter in the engine housing will last for years without changing but is there as a backup in case you damage the underbody filters and need to bypass them.

That is my plan after this happened to me http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/61431-Ford-7.3-boost-questions-Lack-of-power-(1998-E350)

 

[spencyg]

This build pretty much kicks ***. Love the commentary as well.

Def. Upgrade the stock filter assembly to something remote and easily accessable. It shouldn't cost you anywhere near $1500. A good Seperator/Filter from a marine source (check up on Racor filters from West Marine or equiv.) along with the associated plumbing shouldn't set you back more than a few hundred. If you're going electric lift pump than it will be a bit more, but still probably less than a third of your estimate. My old IDI has the filter right on top of the engine, and though a tight fit, everything is right there and accessable. I can tell you it is MUCH easier to work on everything with the entire front of the van ripped off (not recommended).

 

[scoutkid]

always happy to suggest awesome ways to spend someone else's money. :victory:

Missed you a couple weeks ago. had your seat swivels in my pickemup and was in your neck of the woods. You still want them, right?

I do!! I just missed you - sorry about that. I will PM you my number. I won't be in your neck of the woods TOO soon, but we do need to have that Van Gathering soon!

For the sake of a few feet of hose and $10 worth of O-Rings you can have the existing system still in place. Then put in a set of prefilters with a lift pump that you change regularly. The filter in the engine housing will last for years without changing but is there as a backup in case you damage the underbody filters and need to bypass them.

That is my plan after this happened to me http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/61431-Ford-7.3-boost-questions-Lack-of-power-(1998-E350)

You must have me confused with someone who doesn't blow a ton of money on aftermarket stuff Stock ok, aftermarket is mucho mas mejor. :sombrero:

This build pretty much kicks ***. Love the commentary as well.

Def. Upgrade the stock filter assembly to something remote and easily accessable. It shouldn't cost you anywhere near $1500. A good Seperator/Filter from a marine source (check up on Racor filters from West Marine or equiv.) along with the associated plumbing shouldn't set you back more than a few hundred. If you're going electric lift pump than it will be a bit more, but still probably less than a third of your estimate. My old IDI has the filter right on top of the engine, and though a tight fit, everything is right there and accessable. I can tell you it is MUCH easier to work on everything with the entire front of the van ripped off (not recommended).

Thanks! It's a fun project. The $1500 was my SWAG after looking at an Airdog and a remote filter setup with a regulated return setup.

Turns out, after my trip to the diesel shop today, the Airdog isn't needed (at the power levels I am looking to run) with the regulated return setup.

I am going to by this setup with the fuel bowl delete and remote filter:

http://shop.strictlydiesel.com/store.php

 

[Ozrockrat]

I am going to by this setup with the fuel bowl delete and remote filter:

http://shop.strictlydiesel.com/store.php

Have you considered that these kits usually do away with the bowl heater? That could be an issue living in CO. But some filters can be fitter with a heater as an extra.

Also it is still a single filter and after the fuel pump. You would probably be better off with a 100uM filter/water trap follow by a lift pump then a 2uM filter (make sure it can handle the pressure). This will eliminate the big particles and water contaminating your pump/pumps. You will still have to replace the regulator if you remove the bowl but seriously there are very few problems with them once you change the O-Rings across to the new style. Just make sure you also clean the screen on the side of the bowl that feeds the pressure regulator.

Spend the money you save on anAutoEnginuity

OK I will jump off my soapbox.

 

[scoutkid]

Have you considered that these kits usually do away with the bowl heater? That could be an issue living in CO. But some filters can be fitter with a heater as an extra.

Also it is still a single filter and after the fuel pump. You would probably be better off with a 100uM filter/water trap follow by a lift pump then a 2uM filter (make sure it can handle the pressure). This will eliminate the big particles and water contaminating your pump/pumps. You will still have to replace the regulator if you remove the bowl but seriously there are very few problems with them once you change the O-Rings across to the new style. Just make sure you also clean the screen on the side of the bowl that feeds the pressure regulator.

Spend the money you save on anAutoEnginuity

OK I will jump off my soapbox.

You raise several valid points for sure. I thought about the fuel bowl heater, and today at the diesel shop a fine young man took me out to his 7.3L PSD Superduty with the very same setup I am looking at (plus a lot, LOT more) which he hadn't started for more than a week, with a decent sized snow in between. It fired right up! Seems that as long as your GPR and GP's are in good shape, that's most of the battle.

Diesel gels around 15 deg F with no extra additives in it. While this temp is easy to come by in CO (especially in the mtns) you have a lot more problems with fuel than just at your filter. I will however, take a stronger look at a filter setup with a heater, but it isn't going to be a go/no go point for me. At a minimum I will run a fuel additive.

Even on my basic ski days I am very good about making sure my diesels get started around lunch time and ran for a while to keep the blocks warm-ish. And if I am ever up winter camping with 15 deg temps you better believe that the van is going to be running all night to keep me warm, at least until I get a fancy little diesel heater for the inside.

And really, who am I kidding, if its that damn cold my *** is NOT going to be camping! :elkgrin:

Additionally, I have several other power mods in the plans, and this is just a good insurance plan to make sure all of those other mods perform at their optimum levels.

Now quit squashing my fun! :sombrero: Lol, i really do appreciate the feedback!

 

[arz]

for the chronically cheap bastages like myself:

http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102394

 

[scoutkid]

for the chronically cheap bastages like myself:

http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102394

I LOL'd at title 'Tightwad mod'.

 

[G.P.]

Exhaust

I am very new to this board but, have been in the NW 4WD community for over 10 years. I also have a 7.3 diesel van I have considered converting in the future. What I would like to add is something you have not talked about as of yet.
My buddy owns a local exhaust shop here in Renton, WA. Because I drive my van doing electrical service every day I chose to a 1 off exhaust mod. I had him do a custom 4in exhaust all the way back with a 5in tip. The down pipe flange was retrofitted from the 3in to 4in straight off the turbo. I also did a custom Stage II cold air intake with a coffee can filter that I made at the local Auto Zone for about $50 buck and a Stage II Super Chip. I was able to improve my overall MPG 4-5 MPG. Meaning I am averaging 21-23 MPG on the freeway. I am into these mods about $1700. Based on fuel economy they should pay for themselves in about 2 years...

I also gained about 75HP and 120lbs of torque.

These mods may be just what you are looking for, for some added umpht. My work van weighs in at 9100 and can still smoke the tires rolling at 15 MPH. Typically, I save that for when some A**** pisses me off in front of me (traffic is hell in Seattle). Not to mention the black cloud that follows (AKA the new middle finger).

One other thing I wanted to add... I had a fuel leak on mine which was caused by a fuel hardline bracket on the right bank from the fuel filter. I called the dealer about this and they said they had no recalls. Maybe it is a one off. However, It was a nightmare to replace the line and I did delete the existing OEM bracket. I would hate to change one of those far away from home.
My 2c.

 

[G.P.]

This is a great write up. I'm sure that I speak for many others when I say thank you for the details and pictures.

 

[sdski]

Sorry to bring up an old post but I am running some calculations and have a question for you.

Ever wonder how much your 2WD suspension is worth? $30 at the scrapper. It just about 500 lbs, hubs through link ends, FYI.

Was the 500 lbs all suspension parts, nothing else in there? As in all parts that aren't supported by the coil springs?

 

[scoutkid]

Sorry to bring up an old post but I am running some calculations and have a question for you.



Was the 500 lbs all suspension parts, nothing else in there? As in all parts that aren't supported by the coil springs?

No problem! That was everything that comes out of the 2wd suspension, including brake rotors, drums, etc.

 

[scoutkid]

Well, back to the top. Vantom has been sitting in the cold/snow/60's/wind/more cold since the massive fuel leak sprung up. I started working inside the house on a few remodel projects and just kept seeing Vantom sitting outside, looking sad.

So today, I called up the grua, and had him drag Vantom to the local Ford place to just get the leak fixed so I can enjoy him for the winter. I will update with what the ACTUAL problem is/was.

 

[hobietony]

Sometimes you just have to punt.