Scrubber3's long overdue build thread

zukrider

Explorer
thats to bad. your honest best bet is to have it inspected at a mitsu dealer. and it is fully acceptable for you to call ahead first and ask about the techs. ask for the longest term tech they have, preferably one that was around to PDI these trucks. as, they will have the best knowledge of any common issues, and uncommon as well.

im a honda tech, and consider myself an all around great mechanic. but i can tell you right now whats wrong with a honda by what you tell me. make sense?

good luck, and get your money back. dont take no for an answer!
 

scrubber3

Not really here
thats to bad. your honest best bet is to have it inspected at a mitsu dealer. and it is fully acceptable for you to call ahead first and ask about the techs. ask for the longest term tech they have, preferably one that was around to PDI these trucks. as, they will have the best knowledge of any common issues, and uncommon as well.

im a honda tech, and consider myself an all around great mechanic. but i can tell you right now whats wrong with a honda by what you tell me. make sense?

good luck, and get your money back. dont take no for an answer!

I was a technician for years and even became a service manager. Shortly after my term in the Army. I am a fair person and understand how it works, but I know not to be unreasonable. I also know when to turn ************ at get the point across.

Thanks for the rally!
 

scrubber3

Not really here
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scrubber3

Not really here
Sorry for being MIA lately. In light of some current situations abroad, I've been indisposed.

I'll be taking my truck in next week. In the meantime, I'll be putting a new alternator on it as the voltage regulator has gone bad in mine. Thank god for lifetime warranty parts. Also, I retract any statements I ever made about balance beads. They are junk.

While I was gone, a mouse made an attempt at living in the rig. It gave itself away when it chewed up some paper towels I had sitting in the floorboard. Upon further investigation, I found a half eaten cliff bar. The next day I purchased 2 mouse traps, set them and waited. 18 hours later, the very healthy mouse took its last breath as the metal bar of the trap snapped it's nimble neck. Needless to say I was relieved as I've seen what a mouse can do to a vehicle if left long enough.
 

scrubber3

Not really here
Oh yeah, anyone have any ideas what could be going on with the 4wd. I think I remember reading somewhere about the transmission input shaft sleeve causing the issue. Or something to this nature....
 

scrubber3

Not really here
Exactly what are the symptoms?

In any transfer case setting other than 2hi, it lets loose and grinds when a load is put on it. Then continues for a bit until the engine slows back down. I believe I've narrowed it down to the transmission output shaft sleeve. It seems to be what matches the symptoms best. It has a new Tcase in it and the systems are the same. It shouldn't be the front diff as the truck would still proceed forward due to the locking center diff.

Then again, the voltage regulator is going out.... Wonder if that has anything to do with it.

Any advice?
 
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lordtrunks

camp loser
Have you tried putting it on jack stands and putting it in gear to see if you can pin point the area of the sound? also is this truck a auto or a manual? I find it pretty weird that the tranny output would be shot not normal at all. In most cases its the chain in the t\case that has stretched out which is more rare on a auto than a manual since the manuals shock load the crap outta the t\case . did they give you your old t\case back? i'd be making sure they even put the case you gave them in.
 

Justice R

Adventurer
So your saying the truck will only move in 2hi? In 2 hi is everything normal? or are you able to move but still hearing things? My guess would be that you might have a busted front CV joint. Since you said the shop found a busted boot, that could mean the joint let go (and thus busted the boot from the twist).

I've found out that when I had manual hubs installed in my 95 that if you attempted to shift in and out of 4WD with the locking hubs disengaged, the T-Case would grind something horrible and would not move. This would mimic a busted CV. I believe the sensors in the tcase that detect movement in the front drivetrain get buggered up if they are not seeing movement in the front and probably screw with the vacuum to the front axle dissconnect in the front. Should be an easy check. I dont think its your trans output shaft and has to do something with the front drivetrain. I'm sorry that you replaced the Tcase for no reason.. Let us know what you find.
 

scrubber3

Not really here
Thanks for the replies gentlemen. I'll be working on it for the rest of the day and will update soon. I've locked the vacuum piston forward and backwards to check function, but still run into the problem. The cv axles are in one piece and isn't the issue. I'm in the process of swapping the alternator now as the voltage regulator isn't doing its job anymore. Hopefully, this will solve the problem somehow. It's been slowing going and the 4wd issue has started as the voltage reg has been slowly losing it.

Regardless of the front, the truck should still be moving forward as the transfer case has a locking center diff. Since I've put another tcase in, I'm hoping the voltage is just too high and is causing an engagement issue within it..... Wish me luck as I though the tcase was strictly mechanical with the exception of sensors..... Guess there is an electric regulator, or something that is affected by too much voltage causing the issue. That last sentence being wishful thinking, but since there isn't much on this forum concerning this, I feel it may be much needed information.....

Oh yeah, in 2hi, I actually drive it around without issue. I've even takin it on a couple of outings without issue. Just relying on the rear locker and driving with some sense. Just no 4wd..... Or everything let's loose.
 

scrubber3

Not really here
Alternator switched out. Holds when the tcase is locked. Let's loose when in 4hi unlocked(AWD). It's in the front for sure.
 

krnnerdboy

Adventurer
Good luck on trouble shooting. Your rig has got me interested in a montero for the first time. Any good links that show the strength of this platform?
 

Justice R

Adventurer
Regardless of the front, the truck should still be moving forward as the transfer case has a locking center diff. Since I've put another tcase in, I'm hoping the voltage is just too high and is causing an engagement issue within it..... Wish me luck as I though the tcase was strictly mechanical with the exception of sensors..... Guess there is an electric regulator, or something that is affected by too much voltage causing the issue. That last sentence being wishful thinking, but since there isn't much on this forum concerning this, I feel it may be much needed information.....

The Vacuum that controls the CAD (front axle disconnect) is electrically actuated. If you got something screwey with that circuit it could cause what you describe. I would check those connectors as they are mounted to the frame on the front. Ensure that they are not water logged or broken off disconnected.

Sugest you jack up the front end and inspect for damage. Since you say the CV's are good to go there could be damage in the diff itself. Either the CAD or the ring and pinion. There's also a sensor for the cad that goes into the side of the front diff housing. heck that out. If you Grenaded the Diff I suggest getting one out of an SR with the 3.5. That will give you an upgrade in strength to both the ring and pinion, CV axles, and alow you to run the ARB airlocker in the front later if you want.
 

Justice R

Adventurer
Alternator switched out. Holds when the tcase is locked. Let's loose when in 4hi unlocked(AWD). It's in the front for sure.

Check: Vacuum to CAD, its electrical control circuit, or the cad engagment sleeve broken. This is assuming the CV axles are good like you said. I would double check that to ensure you dont have a busted stub shaft that you cant see on either the diff side or the hub side. Last resort check the diff itself, but that is not the weakest link in the circuit.
 

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