seanpistol
Explorer
Pretty sure Benc's brother in law that owns the truck is only at 2" of suspension lift. Devinsixtyseven has the Camburg race kit long travel with 4x4 axles.
I'll copy and paste some info I've come across in researching to get you guys thinking.
From Devinsixtyseven with regards to tubbing a 1st-gen Tundra-
"Cutting for 35" Tires is a much more extensive modification and requires sheetmetal skill with a MIG or TIG welder, as well as trimming either the stock sheetmetal fender or a fiberglass replacement. Follow the guide on Trails Less Traveled (link elsewhere in this thread) to find the areas in need of a trim. When cutting, pull the upholstery and use a wet towel to catch sparks. Keep a fire extinguisher, a bucket of water, and some wet shop rags nearby when grinding or welding on the cab. Use an air saw or sawzall when possible, try to avoid using a cutting wheel, particularly on the structural channel where it's impossible at first to catch any sparks. Be extremely careful working on the lower structural channel in general, be certain to re-pinch and weld the channel, and replace any removed metal with at least an equivalent thickness in an equivalent position to provide strength. It's very important to remove as much paint and undercoat around the planned weld areas as possible. 3M makes an excellent gap filler and undercoat base layer to apply on the inside and outside of any joints. The fender can be reattached at the bottom using a vertical self-tapping bolt into the bottom of the structural channel, with a nylon spacer between fender and cab. Depending on the wheel and tire, the tire may interfere at the body mount at the rear of the wheel well. If this is the case, a suspension lift or drop bracket will also be required."
"""You need a small welder, a small cutoff/flap/grinding wheel, and a small reciprocating saw, in addition to the usual hand tools. This is necessary even with 33" tires, so like I said, do it once, for 35" tires. The best covering for the job is Herculiner, and the task will take a weekend of long hours to tub, plus several days of adding layers of Herculiner to the new, bare steel. It's nothing that demands action now now now, just something to keep in mind for the future. It's also not a bad idea to prepare yourself for the sight of empty space in the wheel well!
The lower fender support bolt disappears, so you'd need to come up with another way to attach the stock fender. Also, I'm not 100% sure the tire will fit in the stock well without pulling the inner fender. There's only about 3/4" clearance from a 35" tire to the top of the wheel well, and I mean the inner wheel well."""
From Benc on tubbing his brother-in-law's 1st-gen Tundra-
"I used a cut off wheel for the whole thing , seams to work the best. His took us about 3 hours a side, you will want someone inside the truck while you weld with a wet towel to stop any fires. I like to use 16 ga because you are cutting into the door pillar. Some people seam to not need to trim and plate the body mount but I did on his and mine. After you weld caulk all the welds inside and out ( I used exterior latex and smoothed it out) as for the inner fender, they will have to be removed. The bolt on the lower fender will have to be moved. All the interior needed was minor trimming on the kick panels . You will also need at least 1-1/2 in wheel spacers to clear the frame while turning. We had to do nothing to the rear to fit 35s"
There is a lot more info on tubbing if it's not related to Tundras. Pirate4x4 has several how to's on old 4runners and such, with plenty of photos. I can't find the links I had saved at one time. Seems pretty easy to do, just time consuming. And I wouldn't want to run 35's without at least 4.56 gears, which aren't cheap.
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