seanpistol's 01 Tundra

[seanpistol]

Sean, how do you like the suspension? Right now I have 5100s up front and rear with Wheeler's AAL and plan to add some Camburg or Light Racing UCA. Eventually I'll probably grab some ICON coil overs and Deaver spring pack, but this should hold me over for a while.

The front suspension is great. Icons and Deavers sound awesome, but not worth the money to me, for my situation. I took the advice of Derek24, who has had everything from 5100s with OME coils to Icons on his Tundra, and said the Icons aren't worth the money if you aren't driving fast offroad all the time. Depends on what you want to do with your truck. I went with the OME 886 coils because they're for a Tacoma with a bumper and a winch, and our V8 weighs about 150 lbs more than the Taco V6. Made sense to me. The Uniballs are awesome, I am super happy with the ride and performance from my suspension. I do want to get rid of the rear 1" blocks I have had since the previous owner, and put in the Wheelers 3 pack add a leaf. I have an almost 500 lb snowmobile in the bed most of the winter, I could use a little more spring back there.

 

[seanpistol]

Hey seanpistol - I just looked over your build. WOW, your truck is sweet. You have done an awesome job.

Thanks! I wish it was as clean inside as yours is, ha!

 

[BrianTN]

The front suspension is great. Icons and Deavers sound awesome, but not worth the money to me, for my situation. I took the advice of Derek24, who has had everything from 5100s with OME coils to Icons on his Tundra, and said the Icons aren't worth the money if you aren't driving fast offroad all the time. Depends on what you want to do with your truck. I went with the OME 886 coils because they're for a Tacoma with a bumper and a winch, and our V8 weighs about 150 lbs more than the Taco V6. Made sense to me. The Uniballs are awesome, I am super happy with the ride and performance from my suspension. I do want to get rid of the rear 1" blocks I have had since the previous owner, and put in the Wheelers 3 pack add a leaf. I have an almost 500 lb snowmobile in the bed most of the winter, I could use a little more spring back there.

I've been reading up about the OME coils. You changed to 5100s, 886, and UCA all at the same time right? Think that's what I read on TS. Seems a lot of people have varying degrees of lift also, depending on 4wd, access/double cab, etc. About how much lift did yours end up with? Have you read into the differences between UCA options (Camburg, TC, LR)?

You are right though about coil overs like the Icons, in regards to driving fast. I probably don't NEED them, but I want them, that's for sure. I may decide to be a tad more financially responsible and go with the OME 886 coils, 90004 struts and Camburg UCA up front, and OME 60091 struts in back with the current AAL. I'll replace the current 5100s with the OME struts as I've read into some of them failing when paired with OME coils. If the rear sags anymore then I'll install Deaver springs. Right now I have 110 pounds with the bed rack, 100ish with the toolbox, and plan on building a rear bumper with a swing out, so that'll be an easy 300-350 pounds in the rear 24/7.

 

[seanpistol]

I've been reading up about the OME coils. You changed to 5100s, 886, and UCA all at the same time right? Think that's what I read on TS. Seems a lot of people have varying degrees of lift also, depending on 4wd, access/double cab, etc. About how much lift did yours end up with? Have you read into the differences between UCA options (Camburg, TC, LR)?

You are right though about coil overs like the Icons, in regards to driving fast. I probably don't NEED them, but I want them, that's for sure. I may decide to be a tad more financially responsible and go with the OME 886 coils, 90004 struts and Camburg UCA up front, and OME 60091 struts in back with the current AAL. I'll replace the current 5100s with the OME struts as I've read into some of them failing when paired with OME coils. If the rear sags anymore then I'll install Deaver springs. Right now I have 110 pounds with the bed rack, 100ish with the toolbox, and plan on building a rear bumper with a swing out, so that'll be an easy 300-350 pounds in the rear 24/7.

Yes, I did coils, shocks and UCAs at the same time. Do it once, do it right is how I like to do things. I didn't want to max out my lift and have an excessive ball joint angle or anything like that. I didn't measure how much lift I got. I'd guess about 3". That's just a guess.

As far as differences, I think you're getting pretty much the same thing between the Camburg and Total Chaos UCAs. I don't think you could go wrong with either of them. The Light Racing UCAs are ball joints, the other two are uniballs. Ball joints are inferior...

I have never, ever heard of problems with 5100s on OME coils. I have however, seen a photo or two of the OME coil on the stock yellow Bilstein shock snapping just above the lower mount.

 

[Greenyota]

I've been reading up about the OME coils. You changed to 5100s, 886, and UCA all at the same time right? Think that's what I read on TS. Seems a lot of people have varying degrees of lift also, depending on 4wd, access/double cab, etc. About how much lift did yours end up with? Have you read into the differences between UCA options (Camburg, TC, LR)?

You are right though about coil overs like the Icons, in regards to driving fast. I probably don't NEED them, but I want them, that's for sure. I may decide to be a tad more financially responsible and go with the OME 886 coils, 90004 struts and Camburg UCA up front, and OME 60091 struts in back with the current AAL. I'll replace the current 5100s with the OME struts as I've read into some of them failing when paired with OME coils. If the rear sags anymore then I'll install Deaver springs. Right now I have 110 pounds with the bed rack, 100ish with the toolbox, and plan on building a rear bumper with a swing out, so that'll be an easy 300-350 pounds in the rear 24/7.

I have OME 886 paired with 5100s on the front end of my 2001 Tundra for the last 5k miles, and I've yet to have a problem. I also got about 3 inches of lift and I still have the stock UCAs. The ride is somewhat stiff and jerks over bumps with the stock UCAs I'm not sure if aftermarket ones like camburg would help this. I went with the OME 886 cause I plan on adding a steel bumper that will hopefully bring the front down .5inches or so and smooth out the ride.

 

[seanpistol]

Currently brainstorming where to put my switches for the compressor and rear diff lock. Wondering where I could put maybe 5 switches together and have it look real clean. I could see the need for switches for a light bar, winch in/out, and manual control of my electric fans at some point... I don't really want to sacrifice my sunglass holder, but they could be real cool up there. I have a double din DVD player- if I had a single din in the dash would be perfect... Speaking of that, I've been wanting to add a rearview camera that will plug right into the DVD player input- it'd be nice to have that on a switch as well to check on a trailer.

Going to see where I can fit this guy- http://www.otrattw.net/Six-Position-V-Series-Switch-Holder.html
-Cutout required for installation is 6.14 X 1.90 inches
-Finished dimensions are 6.49 X 2.30 inches

Any ideas for switch placement? Welding brackets is no issue, made about a million of them recently when I built my motorcycle.

Also thinking about doing a Blue Sea fuse block to get my electronics organized.

 

[bikerjosh]

My .02 I prefer the first option in the overhead console. I'm always worried about inadvertently hitting dash mounted switches with knees etc.

 

[trailscape]

I really like that fist one. I have that setup myself, but I installed it by removing the sunglass holder and mounting it inside. I didn't think there was enough clearance with the wiring.

 

[seanpistol]

Well, I think you guys are correct. That 6 place switch holder from OTRATTW will fit just about perfectly overhead in the sunglass holder. That's what I'm going to go with.

 

[seanpistol]

My wheels have 4.5" backspacing and I rub the frame at full lock. So, I got a set of All-Pro hub centric spacers to push them away from the frame and get the tires slightly outside the fender flares while I was at it. 1.25" in the front and 1.50" in the rear, since the flares are even larger in the back. Now I'm hitting the pinch weld, which I never have before. Got to get rid of that.

Before (yeah, I know I need to go to town with POR-15, might wait till next summer):




and after:

 

[rickashay]

I really like the switch mounting location up top. I was also thinking of making some kind of mount for switches below the ash tray area. Not sure what center console you have but that little hidden compartment would be cool to remove and make a custom enclosure in there, maybe even mount a tablet for GPS mapping etc.

Weird you rub on the frame there, when I hear people talking about rubbing the frame I always assumed it was rearward of the UCA/coilovers. Could you chop some of that frame area out and plate it back? The wider stance looks deadly but hopefully it doesnt wreak havoc on your wheel bearings.

Truck looks good! How you liking the Nittos? Had them in the snow yet? I am scared they will have snow traction similar to a KM2 which is aweful to say the least. I'd love to run these tires though....

 

[seanpistol]

I really like the switch mounting location up top. I was also thinking of making some kind of mount for switches below the ash tray area. Not sure what center console you have but that little hidden compartment would be cool to remove and make a custom enclosure in there, maybe even mount a tablet for GPS mapping etc.

Weird you rub on the frame there, when I hear people talking about rubbing the frame I always assumed it was rearward of the UCA/coilovers. Could you chop some of that frame area out and plate it back? The wider stance looks deadly but hopefully it doesnt wreak havoc on your wheel bearings.

Truck looks good! How you liking the Nittos? Had them in the snow yet? I am scared they will have snow traction similar to a KM2 which is aweful to say the least. I'd love to run these tires though....

Haven't had the Nittos in snow yet. All I can say about them is they balance way better than my Hankooks. These have more tread than the Dynapros, and I made $100 profit onto upgrading to better tires. I'm planning on getting Duratracs before the snow is heavy, I need the best tires I can get for snow since that's what I do.

I rubbed the frame both in front and in back of the coilover, I just only posted a photo of the front. I've read about a ton of people running spacers without any wheel bearing issues, I think I'll be fine but I'll keep an eye on it. I put new bearings in the rear when I did axle seals about a year and a half ago.

 

[trailscape]

I'm presently trying to make this setup work. So far, I have the switches and panel installed but if you put a spade connector on there's not enough clearance to close the door. There's also not much for room above the panel in the headliner so I'm not yet sure how to make this work.

I originally removed the door and used machine screws to mount the panel at an angle over the hinge holes.

 

[seanpistol]

I'm presently trying to make this setup work. So far, I have the switches and panel installed but if you put a spade connector on there's not enough clearance to close the door. There's also not much for room above the panel in the headliner so I'm not yet sure how to make this work.

I originally removed the door and used machine screws to mount the panel at an angle over the hinge holes.

Would you mind posting a photo of what you've got going on?

 

[seanpistol]

Stumbled across this 1-gen Tundra bumper so I thought I'd share. Looks pretty good... $550 for the DIY kit or $1000 welded for you. They have a rear bumper too, but I don't like it at all since the departure angle is no better than stock.

http://www.relentlessfabrication.us...te-bumper-DIY-kit/p/37626829/category=9642628