seanpistol's 01 Tundra

[toyotech]

Just because the tires hide further under the flares in the back. I wanted to push the rear wheels out an extra .25"

I did the same thing. Same reason lol


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[Derek24]

Looks good! Brings back memories.

 

[seanpistol]

Need some input. The 4.10 diffs are not brand new. I now am noticing a slight wine coming from either my driveline or gears upon acceleration. Just drove 20 miles and even at 60 mph, I can let off the gas and hear nothing, and tap the accelerator and hear the subtle wine. It's not loud, and I think it would be difficult for anyone besides myself to notice it. It also does the wine when not on the accelerator and coming to a stop, on occasion. It goes into 4hi and 4lo fine. I'm pretty positive I put everything together correctly- I don't think there is a way besides the correct way to even do it. Is this wine any cause for concern? Anything I need to look at? Thanks for the help.

 

[tyv12]

Had this problem once, turned out the backlash was set incorrectly on the ring and pinion causing a "ringing" only under acceleration


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[seanpistol]

I've heard that's a possibility. They supposedly put in new carrier bearings when they installed the ARB, so I've heard those could not have been put in correctly. Olympic 4x4 in Snohomish, WA seems to be a pretty good shop, though. I also had an idea thrown out that the drive line could be balanced and I may not have bolted it back into exactly where it was previously. I need to get the truck jacked up in the morning and determine where the noise is coming from and figure out where I need to go from there.

 

[Stone_Blue]

Just because the tires hide further under the flares in the back. I wanted to push the rear wheels out an extra .25"

Actually, IIRC, the track width on the rear is 1" narrower than the front, so going with slightly wider spacers in back will help even up your tires/wheels...

 

[seanpistol]

I called Olympic 4x4 in Washington who did the ARB install and talked to a guy who seemed real knowledgeable. This shop does axle swaps, sets up gears and lockers, T-case rebuilds, custom axle shafts and housings and yada yada yada... but who knows. Kind of hard to believe they'd botch an install and you'd think they'd check the backlash. I didn't check it. He said they replace carrier bearings when they install an ARB and don't touch pinion bearings or anything like that for this install. I described how the noise I'm getting is any time upon acceleration and just deceleration coming to a stop. He quickly said that sounds like a driveline issue, maybe out of balance.

So, since the driveline bolts up with 4 holes- I unhooked it, spun it over to the next hole and hooked it back up 4 times, and then took it for a spin around the block each time. None of this got rid of the noise.

I got the rear wheels off the ground and couldn't recreate the noise by just spinning the tires by hand. With an assistant in the truck and revving to about 1500 rpms, I took this video of the sound, still can't tell if it's the driveline or the gears-

[video=vimeo;109627506]https://vimeo.com/109627506[/video]

 

[seanpistol]

I posted the same issue on Tundrasolutions, and Dyogim responded with this advice. Wanted to post it here as well-

"Check to see what gear oil the ARB requires. Maybe a heavier weight. If at all possible, you can check the pinion bearing preload and backlash with the rear pumpkin out. Tools needed, micrometer with a magnetic base and an I beam style torque wrench. Micrometer will be used to check backlash, should average out to 0.007". Pinion preload, used the torque wrench, i believe target is 12-14 ft lbs of rotational force. All this can be checked without removing the ARB. If you have the paint to check pattern, that would be good also.

Unfortunately, its hard to tell where the whine is coming from but, if it wasn't there prior to the ARB, I have to go with that being the origination."

 

[jsnow]

The ARB doesn't require any special oil. It wouldn't hurt to swing by Cruiser Outfitters and talk to Kurt. The other thing to check while its up on jack stands is locking the diff to see if the noise goes away.

 

[BrianTN]

As far as differences, I think you're getting pretty much the same thing between the Camburg and Total Chaos UCAs. I don't think you could go wrong with either of them. The Light Racing UCAs are ball joints, the other two are uniballs. Ball joints are inferior...

I have never, ever heard of problems with 5100s on OME coils. I have however, seen a photo or two of the OME coil on the stock yellow Bilstein shock snapping just above the lower mount.

Ball joints do have their pros compared to uniballs, comes down to the particular application. Regardless I ended up snagging some TC UCA on TS.com. Still keeping an eye out for some used Fox or ICON coilovers and Deavers, I always seems to be a few days too late. The 5100s and OME coils were on Tacomas I believe. I didn't bookmark the sites to check back, but they weren't the yellow Bilsteins. Hope you figure out the current drivetrain issue.

 

[Greenyota]

Ball joints do have their pros compared to uniballs, comes down to the particular application. Regardless I ended up snagging some TC UCA on TS.com. Still keeping an eye out for some used Fox or ICON coilovers and Deavers, I always seems to be a few days too late. The 5100s and OME coils were on Tacomas I believe. I didn't bookmark the sites to check back, but they weren't the yellow Bilsteins. Hope you figure out the current drivetrain issue.

I saw you snag those up on TS from stone_blue almost jumped on them myself, but decided to save the $$ for a bumper.

 

[seanpistol]

Well, I've had a hell of a day. Pulled the third and took it to Six States, who specialize in axles, gears and drivelines. The diagnosis was that all the tolerances were perfect, the coast side of the gears was perfect, but the drive side of the gears was burned up.

eBay guy doesn't know anything about vehicles, and is giving me a sob story because his 17 year old son spent $2000 setting up this diff with ARB for his Tacoma that he never used, and that this is my problem. At the end of the conversation he was trying to tell me I didn't put oil in it...

I am opening a case with eBay, I'm sure I'l get my money back- seeing as how it wasn't "brand new and in excellent condition" as described. The ARB unit was in fact used, because after talking to ARB- the end cap part number installed is only installed to fix units that are used and have a problem with them. And clearly burned up gears requiring $600 of repair is not part of a differential that is in "excellent condition".

I'm calling Cruiser Outfitters in the morning to see if they have an RD129 in stock they can install on my 3.91 diff by the end of the day. **** it- I'll keep 285s, have a locker and be a happy camper. I'm not trying to fork out an additional $1200 to re-gear to the 4.56, even thought I'd much rather have that ratio.

I learned my lesson. If I ever buy used gears again, I'll have them checked out BEFORE the install. But- I probably won't buy used gears again.

 

[rickashay]

Well, I've had a hell of a day. Pulled the third and took it to Six States, who specialize in axles, gears and drivelines. The diagnosis was that all the tolerances were perfect, the coast side of the gears was perfect, but the drive side of the gears was burned up.

eBay guy doesn't know anything about vehicles, and is giving me a sob story because his 17 year old son spent $2000 setting up this diff with ARB for his Tacoma that he never used, and that this is my problem. At the end of the conversation he was trying to tell me I didn't put oil in it...

I am opening a case with eBay, I'm sure I'l get my money back- seeing as how it wasn't "brand new and in excellent condition" as described. The ARB unit was in fact used, because after talking to ARB- the end cap part number installed is only installed to fix units that are used and have a problem with them. And clearly burned up gears requiring $600 of repair is not part of a differential that is in "excellent condition".

I'm calling Cruiser Outfitters in the morning to see if they have an RD129 in stock they can install on my 3.91 diff by the end of the day. **** it- I'll keep 285s, have a locker and be a happy camper. I'm not trying to fork out an additional $1200 to re-gear to the 4.56, even thought I'd much rather have that ratio.

I learned my lesson. If I ever buy used gears again, I'll have them checked out BEFORE the install. But- I probably won't buy used gears again.

Ouch man thats a bummer to hear. At least your probably a pro at swapping diffs now! haha In all seriousness hopefully you get some kind of credit from eBay. It sucks but I guess sometimes that what happens when buying someting from a non-vendor or something. Sucks though.

4.56 eh? I'm debating 4.88 or 4.56.... Thoughts?

 

[seanpistol]

Ouch man thats a bummer to hear. At least your probably a pro at swapping diffs now! haha In all seriousness hopefully you get some kind of credit from eBay. It sucks but I guess sometimes that what happens when buying someting from a non-vendor or something. Sucks though.

4.56 eh? I'm debating 4.88 or 4.56.... Thoughts?

I debate the same thing. According to this calculator, your ideal gear ratio with 35's is just under 4.56- so 4.56 will have just about the same power as the stock gears with stock size tires. I think i'd want a little extra grunt if I was using my truck for what you're planning, and go with 4.88s.

We have highways with 85mph speeds limits around here, so I was thinking that with 4.56s, I wouldn't lose as much top end and it'd make those stretches a little more comfortable. But for everything else, I'd want 4.88s with 35s.

 

[toyotech]

Imo the gear ratio bring you back to what stock would be but it doesn't take in to consideration of all the weight added from the upsize. So imo it wouldn't feel like stock or am I over thinking it.


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