Series 3 owner! and a few questions

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
You can use either one in the hubs. I think the only reason they switched to grease is that people complained about the oil leaks. But if your hub seal and the distance piece on the stub axle that it rides on are in good shape, they don't leak. At least not much anyway.
Some people even use gear lube in their coiler hubs.
 

weatherm

Adventurer
pics as promised

I have added the high lift and got some aluminum scrap from a friend cut so I can bolt it on the roof rack on both sides so I can put cans :)

Just did a product test and everything worked out great.
 

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Snagger

Explorer
That's a very tidy looking vehicle, and it's good to see the controls are still all on the correct side! If you can get used to driving it RHD, you'll find it more comfortable - the foot well is wider, so the pedals are less bunched and you have more space to rest your left foot, and operating the colored transmission levers is easier.

All the advice you have been given is good, but don't worry about the GL5 spec EP90 - I used it for 15 years with no effect on the bronze phosphor bushes in my transmission - it was just the steel parts that seemed to have trouble in my box, and that was nothing to do with the oil.

LM grease is the correct lubricant for the wheel bearings, with EP90 in everything else except the engine. Don't forget to top up the steering box (the filler plug is on its top, and you can use a 1/2" drive socket extension bar and 1/2" spanner to undo it, just like the swivel filler plugs), which reminds me to remind you that the front axle swivels have their own filler plugs and do not take their oil from the main axle casing.
 
Mobil Delvac Synthetic transmission fluid is a very highly specified GL4 transmission fluid. It only comes in 5 gallon buckets. It comes in "Arctic" (10W-30 on the engine oil scale, or 75W-80 on the gear oil scale) and "50" (50 engine oil viscosity or ~90 gear oil viscosity). Even the 50 has a pour point of -49 F.
Redline MTL is also a 75W-80 synthetic gear oil, GL4. It comes in gallons and I think even quarts.

Charlie
 

weatherm

Adventurer
Everyone,
Thanks for the hints. Its has been 105 deg here with around 80% humidity so the desire to get out and work on the truck has been after 9am well.... is non existent :) I did manage to top off the trans, od, and xfer box fluid and well... it sure does shift alot better and is quieter! I was 2 freakin' quarts low! Then it got to hot :)

Today after work I'm going to tighten up the steering ( got about a inch of play) and fill up the steering boxes... I'll work on the axle swivels here shortly.. one is wet and leaked or leaking... both have pitting on the upper side and well that just sucks :) but heck I'll just fill it up as need be until I can get some more cash.


Nick.. you have a sick rover btw! :)
 

dieselcruiserhead

16 Years on ExPo. Whoa!!
The only real differences between a SII and an SIII are the transmission and the dashboard.

And the negative earth.. Were there steering issues? I used to road trip my Series III 88 all over the east. It was *slow* but always a pleasure. My friends loved that car. I think I did too. But I was young and dumb at probably about 20 or 21.
 

greenmeanie

Adventurer
Negative earth came in on the IIA production line. The general rule being that isf the dash panels are body colour it was a positive earth truck and if they are black then it was a negative earth truck. I think the break point is somewhere around '67.
 

James86004

Expedition Leader
Also, negative vs positive earth is a minor detail - it is about a 30 minute job to switch from positive to negative earth, considerably more than that to change the transmission or dashboard.

Other details are the door hinges, the windscreen hinges, and the grille. On 109s the rear axle was different.

Some other details, such as the location of the filler plug on the rear differential, and the change to dual circuit braking system, are different on my 68 SIIA and my SIII, but maybe have been introduced late in IIA production.

I have one of the few SIIAs with a black instrument panel, the newer windscreen wipers, and the older headlights in the grille rather than the wings arrangement. There is probably a club exclusive to these Land-Rovers in the UK.
 

weatherm

Adventurer
Got another question. I got a lot of stuff from a guy in ATL and found out I scored a Rocky Mountain spin on oil filter adapter. He didn't know what it was but I did some reasearch w/ a billing sheet he had and of course the internet. I can't find out where you can buy it on their website or anywhere for that matter. Here is a picture attatched... is there anything else it needs... any body used it before? Install instructions... etc...

Thanks!
 

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Antichrist

Expedition Leader
It's doesn't need anything else other than a gasket between it and the block.
The first spin on adaptor for the Land Rover was made by a fellow back in the early 70's, who's name escapes me, but I'm pretty sure his were aluminum and not painted.
There were at least two others, one of which was a knock off of the "good" ones, but was machined incorrectly and the oil channels were backwards so you don't get proper oil flow.
I've never been that bothered by the stock filters, so never really looked in to a spin on adaptor. That means I can't tell you how to determine if the one you have is a good one, or the knock off. I'm sure someone can. Just don't install it until you find out for sure.
 

evilfij

Explorer
No real point to installing it. The spin on filters are smaller and not that much less expensive than the cartridge ones. Only advantage is you get less covered in oil during an oil change and can get filters at the local parts place off the shelf.
 

weatherm

Adventurer
Sounds like a personal preference... I might just do the cartridge here in the next 1k

anyone want it?? $35 shipped? I think I still have the paperwork proving its a rocky mountain.
 

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
The trick to changing the stock filter without getting covered in oil is to loosen the through bolt, then from above reach down and undo it the rest of the way and let it drop in to your oil change pan.
If you need to know filter PN's just ask.
 

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