Series 3 owner! and a few questions

[JSBriggs]

So why is my Fairy OD leaking gear oil when I don't use it? This has just recently happened?

Even though its not 'in' overdrive, it is all still spinning in there. Make sure you keep it toped off, as those things are designed like a swiss watch (alot of fine needle bearings etc) and don't hold up to neglect.

-Jeff

 

[weatherm]

roger roger.. I wonder if there is some sort of way to fabricate some type of breather apparatus? who knows

shes a puker alright

 

[Snagger]

Where does your OD leak from? It could be a failed O-ring or seal, or it could just be splashing oil out of the breather hole.

Late Fairey units had a splash deflector spot welded underneath the breather hole, with a split pin in the hole to stop dirt ingress (loose enough to allow breathing). This never stopped the weeping, but it did help a lot to reduce the oil loss. I drilled this hole larger and fit a steel nipple with a length of silicone hose to make a remote breather. This had the benefit of stopping all oil weeps, with every drop of oil that entered the bottom of the hose draining back into the OD - the oil never migrated up the hose to its connection with the transfer box and gear box breathers.

 

[weatherm]

Yeah its pissing out that hole.. always wet and oil on my driveway. I figured something was possible and mine does have a splash deflector w/ the split pin. I put a small oring around that inside and that helped some but its still pissing all over the place. I wonder if the hole could be drilled out to fit a axle breather?? who knows off to the drawing board.:wings:

Where does your OD leak from? It could be a failed O-ring or seal, or it could just be splashing oil out of the breather hole.

Late Fairey units had a splash deflector spot welded underneath the breather hole, with a split pin in the hole to stop dirt ingress (loose enough to allow breathing). This never stopped the weeping, but it did help a lot to reduce the oil loss. I drilled this hole larger and fit a steel nipple with a length of silicone hose to make a remote breather. This had the benefit of stopping all oil weeps, with every drop of oil that entered the bottom of the hose draining back into the OD - the oil never migrated up the hose to its connection with the transfer box and gear box breathers.

 

[I Leak Oil]

Let me see if this works.....

http://gunsandrovers.yuku.com/topic/4965

 

[weatherm]

ohh fantastic.. project this weekend

 

[James86004]

My overdrive has a negative leak. At least, the level keeps increasing - I think it is migrating from the transfer case.

 

[I Leak Oil]

If your OD level is increasing it's most likely due to a restricted transfer case breather and\or a failing overdrive input gear oil seal.

 

[Snagger]

And the transfer box is probably filling the OD because it too is over-full, having had the main gear box's oil dumped into it - oil migration from the main box is incredibly common.

I found that my rebuilt gear boxes all had the same fault, including the one from Gen Parts in Solihull. The main shaft rear bearing carrier had been set in the casing dry. Without the red Locktite to set and seal the carrier, oil was able to make its way past the carrier/casing joint, bypassing the main shaft seal. Now that I have rectified that fault, I no longer lose any main box oil other than the tinest weeps from the selector shaft seals (to be tackled next with doubled up o-rings in place of the square section oversized seals). The Locktite also stops the bearing carrier spinning in the casing.

 

[greenmeanie]

Any reason you used red permanent locktite? It'll make removing that bearing housing that much more difficult in the future as you now need to use heat. TH eoptimist would say that once done it'll never get touched again but the pessimist points out that it is a Land Rover and sometime in the next 30 years it'll need done again.

I'd say that the blue stuff would be better for a serviceable application such as this, or in fact, I believe they do a green version that is specifically for locking bearing races in place. Dammit, now I'm going to have to go and dig out the catalogue again.

 

[James86004]

I thought the green loctite was for applying to fasteners after installation (ie, you forgot to put it on beforehand).

 

[Antichrist]

There's more than just different colors of Loctite. You need to go by the number, as there is more than one red (or green) with different properties.
Here is an overview of the different grades.
http://www.type2.com/library/chemicals/loctite.htm

You're supposed to use Grade AAV on the later type bearing housings. But I don't think they make it any more. Looks like Grade B might be a good substitute.

Here's another list of Loctite products, which interestingly doesn't include 270, but is used in a lot of places on Discoveries and Defenders.
http://www.henkelna.com/industrial/military-specifications-6125.htm
Here's their online catalog....unfortunately it's a Flash app.
http://henkel.dirxion.com/WebProject.asp?BookCode=adh09flx#

 

[greenmeanie]

Ah looking at the Loctite consumer products website your comment about the green stuff is true. They have a much wider range of stuff for commercial use though which is perhaps where the confusion started.

For retaining the bearing carrier I'd be using one of the 600 series but then we have a whole shelf load of the stuff at work for specific applications.

There is 518 which is red but that is a sealer but does not serve any mechanical securing function. The red threadlocker requires heat and grunt to seperate.

/Edit. I hope I don't started a Loctite contest. As Tom says just make sure you use the right stuff for the application.

 

[weatherm]

Ok guys.. the vehicle is finally restored to its original glory .. just a few nit picky things now. I'm down to the last one after 7 months

My motor blower won't work so I looked behind the panel and all the wiring is original and in good condition but a lead is ghetto'd to the head lamps and then has a fuse connection to the blower relay. Its a hot lead or at least should be b/c the wire is red. Anyways .. It keeps blowing fuses (20Amps) I flick the blower on and it blows the fuse. Tested the motor and wouldn't work so. I pulled the motor out and cleaned the resistor and everything and hooked it up to the battery and it worked so its not a shotty motor. I'm not that good with electronics but could someone maybe point me to the right direction?

 

[Antichrist]

Did you hook it to the battery through a 20a fuse? Assuming the wiring isn't shorted anywhere, it could be that the motor is just drawing too much current. Maybe sticky bearings or some such. I don't have any idea what the motor is supposed to draw.