MOguy
Explorer
Everybody read this again. If you still are confused, read it again!!!!!! As far as tire size? There is a big difference between an suburban running 35s and a Suzuki Samaria running 35s.
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Sidewall strength, tire pressure, and tire quality
- Thread starter andrew61987
- Start date
Everybody read this again. If you still are confused, read it again!!!!!! As far as tire size? There is a big difference between an suburban running 35s and a Suzuki Samaria running 35s.
MOguy
Explorer
on my Jeep yes, on my one ton no.
this is the most relevant statement that the goodyear rep made: "Typically LR C’s don’t have the same ply fabric as E’s"... that applies to all tires.
it counters the claim that robert made: "Load rating alone does not equate to strength or puncture resistance".
saying that a light c-rated tire is just as strong as a heavier e-rated tire is not logical... the fact that the o.p. can't get a c-rated tire in the common size he wants says it all, the tire companies are looking at the liability issues with putting a weaker tire out there.
the only tires left for serious use are d-rated vs. e-rated, and cooper has confused that issue with the stt pro 37-1250R17LT (124 Q) vs. the 37-1350R17LT (121 Q) ... same diameter, but 9lbs heavier for .3" wider tread, higher tire pressure but a lower load rating? how does an e-rated tire have a lower load rating than a d-rated tire?
MOguy
Explorer
I run Super Swamper C rated tires and they are designed for pretty serious off-road.
I am not saying a C rated tire has as strong of a side wall as the same E rated tire. What I am saying is get the right tire for the right purpose. Get a sidewall that is designed for abuse if you are going to abuse it. Gt correct tire based on the load. If you have a heavy load and need a strong sidewall get an E rated that has a sidewall designed to be abused.
If you have a light vehicle get a load range C with a side wall designed for abuse, do not buy an E rated tire thinking the E rating will give you a sidewall designed for abuse because it won't. Have an E rated tire on light vehicle may not allow the tire to conform around the obstacle and then traction isn't what it could be.
Everything is a compromise.
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super swampers are also sold as b-rated tires, by your logic those are just as strong as e-rated tires.
don't tell people to get "a sidewall designed to be abused"; you haven't provided any proof that any given sidewall is tougher than another sidewall... that's like trying to argue about motor oil :elkgrin:
people need to stop claiming that load ratings are meaningless... go to treaddepot.com, put your mouse over the column titled "Load/Ply Rating", then read the popup: "A numeric rating used to help describe the strength of the tire"
read it again here: "Ply Rating
Ply Rating is used to identify a given tire with its maximum recommended load when used in a
specific type of service. It is an index of tire strength and does not necessarily represent the
number of cord plies in the tire." http://www.toyotires.ca/sites/default/files/imce/Databook_medtrucktires_Speed_Pgs_22_23.pdf
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Robert Bills
Explorer
Nobody has claimed that load ratings are meaningless, just as not everyone (including your quote from Goodyear) has agreed that E-rated tires are categorically "stronger and more puncture resistant."
You should read the posts again, paying closer attention to what has actually been said.
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I am done with this thread now. It has ceased to be useful.
Stumpalump
Expedition Leader
For others with E not arguing with Mo.... Know that your sidewall is stiff. It flops left and right as much as it flexes up and down. That flop makes them track different. The solution is to hit stuff more aggressive and stay in the gas. Muscle your way and don't be afraid of harsher steering input or more throttle. E tires like that. C tires like easy placement and more precise driver input. It's more criticle to follow the preferd line than to Baja it on a C. Momentum is your freind on an E. It's a stout tire so it shines when you hit stuff harder. Check your bump stops and clearance so you can use the tires a little harder. If you think you need to hit the gas and steer hard then you do it. Let the squishy C guys do it their own way and you do it yours and you will wind up in the same place.
your exact words were "Load rating alone does not equate to strength", and the links i posted from toyo tires, treaddepot, and goodyear proved that was wrong.
load/ply ratings are all that we have... the government has done some plunger testing on tire sidewalls, but there is no official standard for comparing sidewall strength.
MOguy
Explorer
If your driving style is to hit it hard and see what happens and you choose E rated tires because you want to drive with your right foot instead of using your brain, and you think those tires are what will allow that to hapen, go for if. Maybe get some 20 Inc or 22 inch rims that also may help you. That metal is harder than steel. Have fun.
Coachgeo
Explorer
There is Bead Locks....... there is Run Flats...... why is there realitivly no sidewall protection systems? Actually they are a few but their for HUGGGEEEE industrial tires..... some look like large Chainmail and others look like Armadillo armor plates almost. Seen one tha looks like an extra sidewall that bolts to the rim somehow.
Wonder if one could just cut the sidewall out of an old tire and find a way to attach it to the rim and each side and let it flap??? Can you say, Redneck sidewall protectors???
Wonder if one could just cut the sidewall out of an old tire and find a way to attach it to the rim and each side and let it flap??? Can you say, Redneck sidewall protectors???
Stumpalump
Expedition Leader
That won't help. The flats happen when the side gets pinched against the metal rim because they air down too much and hit stuff too hard. I run Staun inner bead locks for that and other reasons and had one flat in 10 years running a C tire. The beginners run an E because they are clueless how much to air down or drive. Some buy because they can't find a tire that fits. A good driver that does not get pinch flats will get less sidewall damage with a C. The E is too hard and requires a lead foot. They track poorly so they are all over the trail hitting stuff on the sidewall. Same thing on dirt bikes. Some buy thick heavy desert knobbies and the rest of us ride on soft Dunlop MX51 with great traction but use an Tubliss insert that's like a Staun beadlock to stop pinch flats or stay aired up. The desert tires like the E truck tires suck bad but the beginners can't drive or ride and it does not matter anyway. They even read the beginning few pages of combined 50 years experiance at Rubicon, Moab, off road parks and by trail guides but they still want the beginners tire and are hellbent on proving a stiff sidewall is some how better to those of use that have seen that it's not. For a beginner with a lead foot that is still learning how to pick lines and modulate momentum an E may seem be better. Most burn out and go away anyway and is why organized rides are 80% newbies with their first 4x4. A ruff riding E tire that will not track like a C or D is just a shortcut to them getting beat up, burnt out, bounced around and broken causing them to stay off the trails. Bu bye..they are the hard headed Cowboys that give us a bad name and have trails shut down any way.